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Old 10-28-2011, 09:14 PM   #1526
maxpowr
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im considering requesting low tq from my tuner...your pushing her harder than i plan on, gary.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:15 PM   #1527
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
450whp should be around 520 crank hp, even if they are rated at 600hp they should have some safety factor to play with
that assuming that manley based their ratings off a low reading dyno.....

Low side....450whp goes to 520chp

high side....450whp at 0 CF becomes 520whp on a DJ...which becomes 620chp....

so its either a 1.2 safety factor....or he's already over the rating.

And if you look at what the cars read stock 200-220 whp airboy.....thats 27-33% drivetrain loss....so if you apply those numbers to 450whp.....its 570-600 chp.

so 2 out of the 4 ways of looking at it...he's already at or over the rating. one other way he's got like a 2% factor...and the other is 20%......and thats just talking about straight power....now add knock into the equation.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:25 PM   #1528
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damn ron...save the ball bustin for after i break one. the rod bearings are fitted.

we had to combine an acl h and acl hx to get .016 for clearance.

the mains were all in spec...except number 4. (number 4 rod bearing was shot) so we have to line hone and use bigger main bearings.

i'll get the exact specs with the blueprint results, as i'm not certain of the values.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:43 PM   #1529
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Originally Posted by maxpowr
damn ron...save the ball bustin for after i break one. the rod bearings are fitted.

we had to combine an acl h and acl hx to get .016 for clearance.

the mains were all in spec...except number 4. (number 4 rod bearing was shot) so we have to line hone and use bigger main bearings.

i'll get the exact specs with the blueprint results, as i'm not certain of the values.
If #rod was shot. Why is #4 main getting all the work?
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:59 PM   #1530
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my failure, well it didnt fail but was making a spun bearing sorta noise; when we took it apart it was all good except #4 rod bearing was destroyed but not spun. crank was shot, like it had walked into the thrust bearing.

yesterday when measuring the mains my machinist found 4 out of 5 were in spec but main # 4 was loose. we plan to line hone and use bigger bearings throughout.

it wasnt much out but we are aiming for precision.

i may be wrong but i think it was .0024 and i think we want .0016. i could be wrong on that though.
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:15 AM   #1531
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DAMN...just got two thumbs down from ron...
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:28 AM   #1532
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Lol. I just said do what u want. I gave u my opinion. I still think the rods are under rated for the power+knock on the gt30 but the main reason I was recommending the I beams was because u keep talking about going to a gtx30 or a gt35....
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:37 AM   #1533
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next build. when i get tired of this i may just sell the whole car an start over.

or maybe 450whp will be plenty of power.

i have been joking around lately about converting my 99 to full race and towing it to the track with the bugeye...

maybe the 2013 sti will be worth buying...
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:52 AM   #1534
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next build. when i get tired of this i may just sell the whole car an start over.

or maybe 450whp will be plenty of power.

i have been joking around lately about converting my 99 to full race and towing it to the track with the bugeye...

maybe the 2013 sti will be worth buying...

when people get into this game they always think a certain number is all they need. such as yourself and the 450whp goal.

however, in reality it's never enough.

i thought my 05sti was unbelievable back in 2005-2006. then said just a bit more. went basic stage 2 - tbe and cobb protune.

then wanted more and went 20gtdo58cm in 2006. wasn't enough.

then went all out with an fpred pistons in 2007. had 425whp and thought it was the best car in the world.

slowly i realized within a week i wanted more and the car felt slow.





it's never ending. if there's even just a small part of you that doubts your goals and being happy with it, pay the money now for i beams.

if you know yourself well and will stay conservative, stick with the h beams.
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:12 AM   #1535
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thanks bgod.

i'm not a guy that will be at the drag every weekend. i mostly just enjoy driving it. its not about going 150mph at all. i have a wife and 2 kids and i cant be acting like a child anymore.
not to mention my license is important to me.

11.50 @ 134 at the track is plenty for me. i do not intend to cage "hakt". but like you said who knows...

i am also building this car with no job. i am hustlin and beggin borrowing and stealing to get this back together. i really miss just having her in my driveway.

when i get my ish together and get a job and what not maybe i'll be able to save 20k$ to get a real build started.

i know myself to be very impatient, and easily convinced to "funk it, go for it!"

but this quick build is a repair to get my car back, and i have to treat the build with respect. its kinda sad that 400$ is the difference in doing the I beams but truth is money is tight right now.
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:26 PM   #1536
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thanks bgod.

i'm not a guy that will be at the drag every weekend. i mostly just enjoy driving it. its not about going 150mph at all. i have a wife and 2 kids and i cant be acting like a child anymore.
not to mention my license is important to me.

11.50 @ 134 at the track is plenty for me. i do not intend to cage "hakt". but like you said who knows...

i am also building this car with no job. i am hustlin and beggin borrowing and stealing to get this back together. i really miss just having her in my driveway.

when i get my ish together and get a job and what not maybe i'll be able to save 20k$ to get a real build started.

i know myself to be very impatient, and easily convinced to "funk it, go for it!"

but this quick build is a repair to get my car back, and i have to treat the build with respect. its kinda sad that 400$ is the difference in doing the I beams but truth is money is tight right now.

i totally hear you. i have a kid and the second is on the way. i feel your pain and i'm sure things will look up for you in your job search.

in the end do what you have to do to get it running. very likely that you'll have some other expenses you haven't accounted for yet as with any rebuild or set-up change so you could probably use that $400. god knows some unexpected cost always creeps into the equation.

the worst part of rebuilding is always the down time.
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:05 PM   #1537
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yeah. thanks for the pat on the back bro. i mean, aside from the rods...i still dont even have everything i need.

i just bought a walbro 400...big up ray@turbotek. so i need to figure out how to get that wired up.

i ran an sti top mount before but now have a turbo xs front mount. i wanna rotate the intake so i had the intake cut/plugged to move the brake booster nipple...thats done, but i have yet to buy a tial 50mm bov. plus i gotta get my boy bill tronco (william tronco racing) to do all the welding.

ron donated a 6 speed oem flywheel and hd pressure plate, and i bought an act 6 puck sprung hub new. which i have now been told i should have just done a full face organic...
i never had a puck so i guess we will see. never had a 6 speed clutch set up either, i had a 5 speed set up in my 6 speed!

im still excited, but i dont even know how much this machine work is gonna end up costin!
5 angle vale job, port and polish, journal/cam repair...and then the case...needs slight hone, line bore, the time spent properly measuring...guess we'll see.
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Old 10-31-2011, 02:33 PM   #1538
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you need to do things one step at a time jake! this way you shorten the downtime of your car significantly, you know this just as well as I. Especially since you have very limited income!

Did you get seats yet or is your car still sitting at karl's with no interior?
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Old 10-31-2011, 03:30 PM   #1539
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jeremy is gonna break me off his 06 tr seats...big up jeremy!

one step at a time...lol. if i could even do one thing that would be an accomplishment.

1. wire up walbro
2. clean interior
3. install jer's seats
4. assemble longblock
5. weld up tial 50mm bov that i dont have yet
6. weld up rotated intake front mount kit
7. fit front bumber cover that is already cut for existing front mount...big up smurftastic
8. find a tuner that wants to tune my POS.
9. fix leaks/problems
10. tune again for 450whp.
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Old 10-31-2011, 05:04 PM   #1540
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8. find a tuner that wants to tune my POS.
jr said he'd do it for free .....but then again after that he said he wont tune big setups on a 16bit ecu....you really should just go standalone.....then use the 16bit for your GC8. but again...thats just more $$. or maybe try and find a 32bit ecu n harness in that special subaru dumpster.

did those v5 heads have avcs? if you do switch to a 32bit, you could get that runnin.....i think. 500rpm faster spool.
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Old 10-31-2011, 05:21 PM   #1541
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i wont you to tune it ron. your my hero. if you wanna step aside im selling the car...untuned.

didnt realize my car was a big setup. its more like medium. non avcs...big cams ftw.

i'm sure junior would hook me up with a tune, he's been real friendly whenever we so each other. i def trust him, but i dont wanna hear i'm a puzzy when i say 450whp is good enough. if juniors not available, ray from turbotec said he'd be willing, and i trust him as well. rich and cleo from precision are available and about an hour south with a basemap. its a shame we are so far apart ron, i really enjoy working with you. i know you wanna help, but i understand how much of a PITA my etune would be. plus i really prefer to tune it on a dyno or the track. 130mph on back roads will end up with a subaru wrapped around a deer or worse.

stand alone is not happening in 2011. or even 2012 i dont think. i'd use an autronic aem or vipek if money was no object. but i think coilovers are coming before engine management. i do realize the tuning value of a proper engine management unit.

i just want the car back running for now. performance later.

im really leaning towards keeping "hakt" civilized and making the 99 "gm6" (*cough*) full blast.
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Old 10-31-2011, 05:34 PM   #1542
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^^ VF on e85 in your wrx for your daily, that would get rid of the "hacks" needed in the ecu.

gt30 in the the gmc.
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Old 10-31-2011, 05:40 PM   #1543
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built 2.0 into hakt. tow the bugeye back home and store it for a bit?

just tell me you still wanna work on my junk. maybe i'll even pay you this time.

you still take wompum?

i've been kicking around just puttin the new motor and 6 speed in the 99... i would if junior got the harness done for me. he told me he would if i get it out of the 99. maybe i should take him up on that.

i dont know how i would feel about a setup under 350whp but as far as i have read lately 350whp can be done with a vf, and vf's are pretty cheap!

30r in the 99 isn't really full blast though...

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Old 11-02-2011, 05:21 PM   #1544
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wasup junior?

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Old 11-02-2011, 07:15 PM   #1545
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Why take anyones word on nasioc? Call manley.

They are going to tell you that their I beam is stronger. The only reason people say to get H beams is cost.

And no one ever mentions knock when referring to rod hp ratings. screw the hp rating.....you want the strongest damn thing in there that you can afford.

And all the stuff you're reading about different rods n strength and peoples opinions is exactly why i just got frustrated and stopped even trying to research it.

You can take any part on the car and search for reviews and you'll find 50 people who say its the greatest thing since astroglide and 50 others that hate it.
You are dead on with knock. The forces thrown at a rod during detonation are insane in comparison to what they are accostomed to seeing. It doesnt take much to mushroom the bearing and wreck the rod. Manley I beams are obviously better than the H beams, but there are companies that have killer H beams. The Carrillo H beams with the Carr bolts is probably as good as it gets, but the price tag is painful. For the money, the Manley I beams are a pretty safe bet for what our motors are capable of. The slightly higher price tag is cheap insurance. You can still loose a bearing if you detonate it hard enough, but I have yet to see a Manley I Beam break from anything other than bearing failure from massive detonation. I have seen the I Beams survive enough detonation to lift a ringland, but at the end of the day it all comes down to have the car tuned properly, making sure you have proper oiling, and properly stretching the rod bolts when you install the rods. The stretch is much more important than the torque.

Rich
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:30 PM   #1546
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wasup junior?

All things aside jake why even bother building the RS? Your year/model w/ sunroof will be within 100-250 of your wrx when swapped. I suggest you start making your bug-eye light-weight like xdrian's. If you dont have enough money for one car trust me two car gets very expensive job-less. Just maintenance on two cars starts to add up....syn oil changes, quailty brake pads, ect. Since you already have a beater just put all your $ towards one project. I'd rather have one subaru driving then 2 sitting in my driveway and driving a POS everywhere
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:11 PM   #1547
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Old 11-09-2011, 04:16 PM   #1548
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having issues setting up the block for the line bore. i donated a 2.0 shortblock for testing.

as soon as we get that sorted, we will assemble, time and degree the cams.

getting closer...(jaws music playing in background)

bought a tial 50mm bov...one more thing off the list.
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:03 AM   #1549
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:01 AM   #1550
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You need a 2.0??
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