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Old 09-19-2012, 08:37 AM   #2001
maxpowr
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i dont know why thats funny. i have gold foil from flat 4 motorsports for my intercooler piping.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:52 AM   #2002
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who cares what it looks like if it goes fast and you are happy with it. when you go to sell it, someone else might care...if you aren't selling it and you don't care, then what's it matter.


happy to see you back up and running again
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:38 AM   #2003
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me too! loving the subaru again. well except for this boost leak i have to fix...

feels fast at 15# and super rich...

25#'s on E with dw1300s, gt3076r .63, ewg, 3 inch catless, rotated throttle body, 6an feed 6an return with parallel rails, walbro 400, 60#s of fuel pressure, 76mm CAI, borla unequal length, rotated up, 04 six speed, crawford AOS, hallman MBC, turbo xs core, v5 big port heads, 54cc 99.5 combustion chamber, kelford 272s, valve job, plus one valves....16 bit stock bugeye hakt ecu.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:54 AM   #2004
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And KG motorsports fuel pump basket
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:15 PM   #2005
maxpowr
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shout out to kelly, you know this, man!
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:29 PM   #2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
me too! loving the subaru again. well except for this boost leak i have to fix...

feels fast at 15# and super rich...

25#'s on E with dw1300s, gt3076r .63, ewg, 3 inch catless, rotated throttle body, 6an feed 6an return with parallel rails, walbro 400, 60#s of fuel pressure, 76mm CAI, borla unequal length, rotated up, 04 six speed, crawford AOS, hallman MBC, turbo xs core, v5 big port heads, 54cc 99.5 combustion chamber, kelford 272s, valve job, plus one valves....16 bit stock bugeye hakt ecu.
Did you hook up a tester and crank up the pressure? I spent 4 hours fixing leaks on my last go round...all of the injectors were leaking, a few leaks in the charge piping, and even the compressor housing was leaking at the backplate. I've had issues w/the crawford AOS y-fitting at the pcv too...good luck, can't wait to see some times!
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:06 PM   #2007
maxpowr
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i have an air compressor, with a regulator. i disconnected my front mount piping, plugged one side, and fed air in the other.

while the car running/making boost, i hear the leak at like 12-15#s.

with the boost leak tester it doesnt become audible till 25#. gotta take the bumper cover off to get to the coupler/clamp.
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:32 PM   #2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
i have an air compressor, with a regulator. i disconnected my front mount piping, plugged one side, and fed air in the other.

while the car running/making boost, i hear the leak at like 12-15#s.

with the boost leak tester it doesnt become audible till 25#. gotta take the bumper cover off to get to the coupler/clamp.
The www.turboboostleaktesters.com 4" kit works nicely w/the garret compressor housing. Then you know everything is good when you put it back together. Who know's, it might be the where you're disconnecting to test...
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #2009
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nah i can hear it when it starts to leak...

i make the same kit from stuff from home depot for under ten dollars.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:54 PM   #2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
i have an air compressor, with a regulator. i disconnected my front mount piping, plugged one side, and fed air in the other.

while the car running/making boost, i hear the leak at like 12-15#s.

with the boost leak tester it doesnt become audible till 25#. gotta take the bumper cover off to get to the coupler/clamp.
So you only test your FMIC and not the whole system?? On FMIC cars I just put the tester on the pipe that connects to the turbo and that would test the FMIC and the rest of the system. Doesnt make sense to just test half.


FYI: Ive had/fixed plently of boost leak on my/friends cars and Ive NEVER heard them when making boost unless something was completly off(coupler, ect). Id def give the car a complete look over and if possible have a buddy or 2 do the same

Good luck
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:03 PM   #2011
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i dont see how you test the whole system without some sort of T. also not quite sure if the air passes the rings???

i can plug the opposite side of the first test and see if air goes through that way, but i found the leak. under boost it sounds like if you blow on a blade of grass in between your thumbs. how did you find a leak if you didnt hear it?
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:09 PM   #2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
i dont see how you test the whole system without some sort of T. also not quite sure if the air passes the rings???

i can plug the opposite side of the first test and see if air goes through that way, but i found the leak. under boost it sounds like if you blow on a blade of grass in between your thumbs. how did you find a leak if you didnt hear it?
What do you mean by you need "some sort of T"?

I ment I couldnt hear the leak while driving under boost. Once I tested the system @20psi w/ some soapy water I would find them quickly
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:37 PM   #2013
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oh you mean put it at the end of the CAI? that pressurizes the whole engine?
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:47 PM   #2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
oh you mean put it at the end of the CAI? that pressurizes the whole engine?
I put the kit on the turbo inlet, fits nice with a rotated kit. Take off the oil fill cap so you don't blow a cam seal and block off any emissions lines you still have hooked up. Make sure there's a pressure gauge on the leak tester and pressurize the system. Air will go past the rings, that's part of taking the oil filler cap off, but it's at a much slower rate than most leaks will be. I think it should drop about 1psi/sec if there are no leaks. When my compressor was leaking at the back plate, I couldn't get more than 25 psi in the system. Once I got some RTV in there and retested, I was able to get it to 30 psi no problem.

There's a pretty good set of subaru specific directions on boostleaktesters.com, worth checking out if you haven't seen it.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:17 PM   #2015
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dont know how i feel about that.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:56 PM   #2016
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Maybe I am missing something, but why would it pressurize the engine? Are you talking about cracking the throttle while testing?
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:32 PM   #2017
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im trying to think this out as well.

into the turbo inlet.
into the turbo.
out of the compressor to where i would normally disconnect the coupler for a plug.
through the intercooler piping
into the core
out of the core
into the throttle body.

so the throttle body blade doesnt seal?...so i imagine it goes into the throttlebody, into the intake runners and into the heads...which are closed if the valves are closed?

i just dont wanna F anything up with 25#s of pressure, when i found the leak on the core.

that being said, if i can test it safely and possibly find other undiscovered leaks i would want to do that as well.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:40 PM   #2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
oh you mean put it at the end of the CAI? that pressurizes the whole engine?
I put it right after the turbo not before(take the IC pipe off at the turbo and put the tester there).... i do that cause idk how good it is for the turbo seals do put that much pressure on that side

Other then that I bascially follow jukes directions
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:04 PM   #2019
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thats essentially where i put it. into the intercooler piping right after the compressor outlet. i plug the turbo side, cuz i thought the air may be able to pass through the engine.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:19 PM   #2020
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Maybe I am missing something, but why would it pressurize the engine? Are you talking about cracking the throttle while testing?
The throttle is not much of a seal and it doesn't ever fully close anyway. You will pressurize everything up to the valves at a minimum and depending on where you are in the combustion cycle the cylinders too. At some point in the engines rotation you should be able to get a point where all valves are closed so you can eliminate the ring leakage.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:20 PM   #2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OppositeLock View Post
Maybe I am missing something, but why would it pressurize the engine? Are you talking about cracking the throttle while testing?
I do crack the throttle so I can make sure the injector orings don't leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
thats essentially where i put it. into the intercooler piping right after the compressor outlet. i plug the turbo side, cuz i thought the air may be able to pass through the engine.
That's why you take the oil cap off. Plug any lines that go to the intake so nothing leaks out

Last edited by Paul; 09-19-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:39 PM   #2022
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passenger side the compressor outlet goes under my intake manifold to a blue 90. the 90 connects to a straight pipe that runs into the fender. i remove the elbow from the turbo side. i plug the turbo side. i put an air compressor adapter into the pipe that goes into the fender.

also...what pressure coolant caps are correct? what pressure for the high one and the what pressure for the radiator?

i mixed em up and now i am uncertain.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:54 PM   #2023
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Arnt they the same?

The one with tab/wings goto the rad.... You got it right

Last edited by Paul; 09-19-2012 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:05 PM   #2024
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they are marked with different pressures.

i have the higher pressure on the radiator.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:35 PM   #2025
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is the pipe under the intake manifold rubbing still? are any other pipes rubbing like they were before?
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