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Old 07-27-2009, 11:02 AM   #1
NITROS
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Stroker = Broken 3rd

Default My 2.1 Stroker Build EJ205

I've have done a ej257 hybrid. Did a compression check last night and ended up with a weak cylinder, 160, 90, 160, 180 (1,2,3,4). I don't know how I lost it, probably cracked ringland. It lasted 3 years.

I will either be running a 20g or a FP HTA Green.

Here is what I am thinking. I am still doing research but this is what I'm thinking so far. The information here is after doing 3 hours of searching on nasioc. If any of this information is incorrect please help me fix it.

HP goal: Anywhere between 350-400 whp.

I purchased the Alamo Stroker kit, talked with Brice, he pieced the kit together definitely sounded like he was very knowledgeable with the set up. Asked me to call if I have any issues. They even called me after my orher to verify everything I need is shipped at the same time. Very good experience with them.

The kits includes:
Ej257 crank (new)
Eagle rods with arp bolts
Custom Wiseco Pistons.
-8.5 Compression
-130.5 mm rod length
-79mm stroke

Part I have:
2004 ej205 block (my old one with spun rod bearing)
BC 272 Cams
BC Valve Springs and Retainers
pulleys and belt tensioner (less than 5k on the new tensioner)

New Misc Hardware:
ARP head studs
ej205 Gasket kit

New Bearings:
ACL bearings

New Pistons:
Custom Pistons: CP, Wiseco, etc
Wiesco Pistons K579M925B will not work with sti rod (130.5mm length) and sti crank (79mm stroke), rod length for the expected rod length for this piston is 131.5 mm

I am using WISECO pistons from the ALAMO Stroker kit.

Outsourced Work:
0.02" overbore (matched to pistons)
Block Halve Resurfaced (If needed)
Head Resurface (If needed)
Piston Skirt Coating

UPDATE 1a: EJ257 Crank, Rods, Pistons, and ACL Bearings Received. Post 16
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...9&postcount=16

UPDATE 1b: ARP Head studs came in. Post 30
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=30

UPDATE 2: 8/4/2009 dropped off parts at aes racing, in elk grove, il
crank balance
block wash
rings gap
file ring
overbore and hone

UPDATE 3: 10/13/2009
1) I assembled the short block about a month ago.
2) Took the engine out and dissembled it. found #2 ringland was broken.
3) Picked up a set of mildly ported wrx heads. It uses flat valves. judging from the previous owner his compression ratio went from 8.7 to 8.9. If things are linear i should have a compression ratio of 8.8.
4) I still havent found a turbo to go along with my build. I will run the 18g until after the holiday season and then switch to an DOM 3. Spool should be around 4.5K making decent power on pump gas.
5) I plan to get the long block assembled this weekend. The weekend after that i'll get all the accessories on it and drop it back into the car.


UPDATE 3: 4/25/2011
I've been getting questions as to what is my current setup so here it is.

Compression ratio: ~8.58
http://www.race-cars.net/calculators...alculator.html

Cylinder Bore: 92.5mm
Stroke Length: 79mm
Cylinders: 4
Chamber: 48cc
Piston Dome: -13cc
Gasket Thickness: 1.37mm (0.54") not 100% sure about this one. I'm running stock subaru ej20 head gasket.

Engine:
Wiseco custom piston (look at post #16 for spec sheet)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Stock Sti Crankshaft > 79mm
ACL Crank and Rod bearings.

Heads:
Brian Crower Strings and Retainers
Stocksize Brian Crower Valves
Mild port done by me.
3 angle intake cut
5 angle exhaust cut
Sti Cams

Turbo and Exhaust:
Garrett GT3076r with .63 a/r hotside.
Perrin rotated kit uppipe and downpipe with 44mm Tial Wastegate.
Greddy Evo 1 catback, (difference between Evo2? it has two resonators and is aluminized instead of stainless steel)


Intake and Intercoolor:
KSTech 73mm rotated intake with recirc nipple.
Hyperflow TMIC (1st or 2nd Gen Turbo XS)
TGV Deletes done by me.
Synapse Synchronic BPV ( equals no more compressor stall/surge when letting off throttle.)


Fueling:
Walbro 255 fuel pump.
Five0 1200cc injectors, topfeed, part#026WRX1200. (installed as of 4/22/2011)
Perrin Fuel Rails
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Last edited by NITROS; 08-01-2011 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:15 PM   #2
wrxsti.l
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What block will you use? You can't yuse those pistons in your EJ257 block, you need an EJ20x block.
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:48 PM   #3
NITROS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsti.l View Post
What block will you use? You can't yuse those pistons in your EJ257 block, you need an EJ20x block.
Sorry forgot to mention i have my old ej205 with spun rod bearing in the garage. But as for everything else does everything look in order?
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:23 PM   #4
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well you could do a 2.1L or a 2.34L at this point, tough call. Either one is going to be fun.

Those pistons also state being made for use with a 131.5mm rod; thsu you'll have an extra 0.040" of quench height and a low compression ratio...food for thought and things to fix.

-Micah
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:44 PM   #5
NITROS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3MI Racing View Post
well you could do a 2.1L or a 2.34L at this point, tough call. Either one is going to be fun.

Those pistons also state being made for use with a 131.5mm rod; thsu you'll have an extra 0.040" of quench height and a low compression ratio...food for thought and things to fix.

-Micah
ahh your right. this will be a problem. I will either need longer rods or a custom piston. Any one make a OTS stroker piston for 130.5mm rod?
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:25 PM   #6
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^I think the guy you're looking for posted right above you.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:03 PM   #7
NITROS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASF View Post
^I think the guy you're looking for posted right above you.
Yep already pmed him.
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Old 07-27-2009, 05:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITROS View Post
ahh your right. this will be a problem. I will either need longer rods or a custom piston. Any one make a OTS stroker piston for 130.5mm rod?
Mahle Makes one part number SUB193642I16. I've asked the same question in my own build thread but looking for an option to compare against them. Any info is appreciated.

-soobaviator
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:26 PM   #9
NITROS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soobaviator View Post
Mahle Makes one part number SUB193642I16. I've asked the same question in my own build thread but looking for an option to compare against them. Any info is appreciated.

-soobaviator
I called BC and asked if they sell just the pistons. They didnt have any 92.5 in stock but they told me they can have CP custom make them for me about 2-3 weeks. $650 (pistons, rings, pins, retainers) + shipping + any extras
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITROS View Post
Wiesco Pistons K579M925B will not work with sti rod
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wisec...#ht_2352wt_669
92.5mm bore Wiseco Pistons - 130.5mm Rod Length

Why won't these Wiseco Pistons work?... If Wiseco makes pistons that fit the WRX rods and WRX rods are dimensionally identical to STI rods... Transitive property much? The older (pre-98) stuff was of a different rod length...?
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:03 AM   #11
NITROS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582 View Post
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wisec...#ht_2352wt_669
92.5mm bore Wiseco Pistons - 130.5mm Rod Length

Why won't these Wiseco Pistons work?... If Wiseco makes pistons that fit the WRX rods and WRX rods are dimensionally identical to STI rods... Transitive property much? The older (pre-98) stuff was of a different rod length...?
The ones you linked are for
1) standard ej20 not a stroker. BAD
2) 92mm not 92.5mm BAD
3) made for a 75mm stroke not 79mm. BAD
4) You're correct its for a 130.5mm length rod. GOOD


The part number I am refering to is K579M925B its all correct except for the the rod length which is 131.5mm

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ns_subaru.html
http://www.flatlander-ipp.co.uk/wise...o-subaru.shtml

and to be honest i don't think wiseco offers it off the shelf anymore
http://wiseco.com/Catalogs/SportComp...baruToyota.pdf

Last edited by NITROS; 07-28-2009 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:08 AM   #12
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Ah, right. Forgot this was a stroker build...whoops.


so 5.137" = 130.5mm, yet K579M925B says 5.137" = 131.5mm... uhh, someone sucks at converting from English to SI... So is 5.137" the actual spec or is it 131.5mm?
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:58 AM   #13
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The wiseco actuall calls his previously mentioned piston out for a 5.177" rod.

130.5mm = 5.137" (most everything)
131.25mm = 5.167" (phase 1 EJ25)
131.6mm = 5.181" (phase 2 NA EJ25)

I have no clue where the grapped the 131.5mm or 5.177" rod length from but it's what they call out.

PM'ed you back.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3MI Racing View Post
The wiseco actuall calls his previously mentioned piston out for a 5.177" rod.

130.5mm = 5.137" (most everything)
131.25mm = 5.167" (phase 1 EJ25)
131.6mm = 5.181" (phase 2 NA EJ25)

I have no clue where the grapped the 131.5mm or 5.177" rod length from but it's what they call out.

PM'ed you back.
I believe the Wiseco piston is for Pre 98 blocks as the information chart says, but you are right where did this funky rod length come from? The notes also say that the piston rings need to be pinned??? Yikes! Too much trouble for my deal...

I did see a stroker kit on Ebay with Wiseco pistons and I contacted the guy and he said that they are custom Wiseco slugs with an 8.5:1 CR and use 5.137 Eagle rods... The kit is a good price, although I've priced out my stroker build using Cosworth bearings for about $200 less including shipping and tax. Check it out, seems like a decent fellow to deal with.

Alamo 2.1l Stroker Wiseco Pistons Subaru EJ20 WRX STi

I've decided to stop researching and go with the Mahle Power Pak 92.5mm OTS stroker pistons for my build. They are made for the application and I like German stuff, especially my Shamwow.

I'm not trying to make a faffillion WHP so the Mahle's should do me good for the 300-350 WHP and 50,000 miles of use I am looking for.

-soobaviator
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Old 07-28-2009, 02:14 PM   #15
NITROS
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I had just called them as well. He told me it was a custom piston as well. I will give them a call a little later to get the details on it.


Wiesco Custom Piston
CR: 8.5
Rod Len: Standard
Stroke 79mm
Coatings: None, no Skirt ($25-26 option per piston)

Last edited by NITROS; 07-28-2009 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:27 PM   #16
NITROS
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:52 PM   #17
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Even though you never have anything nice to say about any of my stuff, very nice build plan. Hope it all goes well.
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Old 08-02-2009, 11:04 PM   #18
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What No head studs?..... WTF?
^^ Awwww dat's so nice of you
IbhatingWalterifhefinisheshistrokerbeforeme!
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Old 08-02-2009, 11:10 PM   #19
sense of nature
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Like this
Oh yea mines a closed deck 2.35 FTW!
Ibthreadjackinyo!

Last edited by sense of nature; 08-02-2009 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:07 AM   #20
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damn Walter at the pace your going you might be done with your build before I'm done with mine!! I have all the damn parts, but I still cant get the freaking cam bolts off the sprockets!! even after buying the stupid ass AVCS tool, Robert and I have still managed to round all the cam bolts! The only thing holding me back is getting my CP's out of my old block (25K) and re-using them in my new build. everything is ready to go to the machine shop as soon as those heads are off!!


Are you having AES balance your rotating assembly? I'm just wondering if its absolutely nesassary. I'm having them wash,re-hone to piston spec,balance, and gap the rings. Just wondered your thoughts or anyone else's on balancing.



IbsorryforjackingYOREthreadloveyoulongtime !
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronzogonzo View Post
but I still cant get the freaking cam bolts off the sprockets!! even after buying the stupid ass AVCS tool, Robert and I have still managed to round all the cam bolts!
Should've loosened them with the engine in the car so you could've put the transmission into top gear and simply used a large breaker bar on the bolts... Put the timing belt back on, and thread a couple of the flywheel bolts back on. Then put a screwdriver, wrench or something in a way that it fits between those bolts and hits the engine stand so as you try and crank the bolts off, the crank won't turn... Of course, if you're already stripped the bolt heads, then you're screwed. Some cams also have a place to put a large wrench onto... Pop the valve covers off and check.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582 View Post
Should've loosened them with the engine in the car so you could've put the transmission into top gear and simply used a large breaker bar on the bolts... Put the timing belt back on, and thread a couple of the flywheel bolts back on. Then put a screwdriver, wrench or something in a way that it fits between those bolts and hits the engine stand so as you try and crank the bolts off, the crank won't turn... Of course, if you're already stripped the bolt heads, then you're screwed. Some cams also have a place to put a large wrench onto... Pop the valve covers off and check.
the timing belt is still on the block, everthing else has been removed I.E. intake/exhaust mani, coolant crossover and hoses. the only parts left on, are the pulleys and the timing belt. that's interesting what you say about keeping the crank from moving we'll have to try that thanks!!!!!!!
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:16 AM   #23
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Default cam bolts

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1301065

This thread shows how to get the cambolts off. It has lots of pictures. You can either drill, grind or use a stripped bolt set on the cam bolt. I have had to do this more than a few times.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:45 AM   #24
NITROS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sense of nature View Post
What No head studs?..... WTF?
^^ Awwww dat's so nice of you
IbhatingWalterifhefinisheshistrokerbeforeme!
They jus haven't arrived yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronzogonzo View Post


Are you having AES balance your rotating assembly? I'm just wondering if its absolutely nesassary. I'm having them wash,re-hone to piston spec,balance, and gap the rings. Just wondered your thoughts or anyone else's on balancing.
Yea, ill probably have them balance it as well. I want to rev to 8k (thinking about it, it just makes sense since im putting in the money). wash, overbore, hone, gap rings.

I still need to send the pistons to swaintech for coating. I don't know which type I want to get yet.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:41 PM   #25
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Subscribed for eventual and unavoidable trans breakage.

And to steal ideas for a possible built 2L of my own.
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