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Old 05-15-2014, 11:05 PM   #1
sal_2132
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Default Help build my 2013 wrx right! Pump? Parts? Oil?

Ok so my 13 wrx spun a bearing and I've decided to build a new short block for it. It's my first subaru build and not sure of certain details that could really change the dynamics of the block and it's reliability. The block has been built and is currently on way to me, but before I throw it on I wanna be sure I've gotten everything right. I've read thread after thread and with so many opposing ideas I do not know what's best for me.

So far the short block has:
-ej257 honed case halfs
-acl main and rod bearings (I was told
the bearing tolerances are between
1.5-1.8 thousands)
-sti polished crank
-manley h-beam rods
-wiseco 99.5 pistons 8.9:1 compression
-wiseco rings
-11 mm oil pump

The short block will be bolted up with apr studs to the stock 13 wrx heads(single avcs). Along with the build I'll be adding:
-1000cc top feed injectors
-255 walbro fuel pump
-Cobb intake
-invidia catless dp + full exhaust
-turbo xs bov
-mbc
The plan is to run e85 on a duel map. Im sure there are plenty of more parts and work that could be done but, this build is being made on a budget.

As it is my first subaru build I'm asking if there's anything I've forgotten? Missed? Should have gotten instead? Any problems I will face and how to counter them?

Since my last block failed due to the bearing. I'm more interested in whether this is the right sized pump? And what else I can do to prevent it from happen again. Also which oil should be used for break in? Thanks in advance
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:21 AM   #2
02nismokiller
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You still need more reading of threads to do I guess lol. First of all, get in contact with a good reputable tuner and ask him. IMHO I'd get rid of the mbc and get a 3port ebcs. And please don't don't don't don't add that txs bov!!!!! Those things are junk! They leak like a mofo, ask me how I know. Keep the stock bpv, don't get a bov unless your going speed density (which you said your doing this build on a budget, I doubt your going speed density)

Also what your intentions with the car? What turbo you gonna run?
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Old 05-16-2014, 01:09 AM   #3
sal_2132
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Yeah, will do! I'm hoping to get all specific answers from the shop building it for me but it's not getting to them til next week and I'd like to have everything necessary to complete it on time and not find out there I need to order and wait for more parts to ship. It's the 50/50 hybrid bov, is that just as bad? And thanks I kinda figured the mbc wouldn't work myself as I learned more about its performance
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:06 AM   #4
04Hybrid
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the MBC will out perform the ebcs bc the ebcs is alway opening and closing all the way a gew hundred time a second... the MBC is set to one level and stays there. the factory ebcs is only good through 20psi and the same with BOV.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:22 AM   #5
Delphi
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Did you get Manley h-tuff rods or the OG H beam?

Also get a KillerB oil pick up, or at least a Covert Performance one. Switch the Turbo XS bov to a Forge BPV. Lastly with those main clearances you will only need a 10mm oil pump not an 11.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:01 AM   #6
sal_2132
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So I should keep the mbc to keep constant boost levels? The one I have was modified by previous owner to prevent boost creep just haven't tested it out myself yet.

And they're the og h beam rods. I will pick up the killerb oil pick up, but I was also looking into the oil coolers and air oil separates or is that over kill for what I have?

Would the 10 mm provide better flow at those clearences? I went bigger so I wouldn't make the same mistake twice but once I looked into it saw without the adjustments in the block it wouldn't make a difference, but would it actually be worst for it?
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:15 AM   #7
pet3r
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Definitely add the Killer Bee pickup. Thats a mandatory upgrade if you ask me when building a proper motor.

I also prefer an EBCS but thats me.

I would also stay away from a bov, a MAF tune needs a bpv that recirculates to give the best results.

An upgraded TMIC would help quite a bit if you're still using the stock WRX one, because once you push the boost (you will with E85), you'll likely cause the stock to split at the end caps. An aftermarket one will cool better anyway.

I would recommend a good wideband gauge so you can get tuned on E85, and also monitor your AFR while driving. A oil pressure gauge will also be helpful so you can make sure you're not running low on oil. You spun a bearing either because of low oil, improper oil, or extreme detonation. You should see anywhere from 15-20psi per 1krpm once the engine is at operating temperature.

I've used both Amsoil and Brad Penn break-in oil. Brad Penn seems to be the mainstay with most of the high horsepower funny car and fuel altered builders I'm friends with (running 1800-2000hp engines). I used it on my latest engine and I've been meaning to send it off to Blackstone for a UOA. After that run with Shell Rotella T6 oil with oem oil filters. I switched to Rotella after 1200 miles on the motor. I'm also running a stock oil pump.

Without knowing your goals or intentions with the new motor, it's hard to make other recommendations. Other things like EL headers for better power and efficiency would be positive additions, but we don't know if you're after reliability with a stock turbo, or if you have plans to upgrade the turbo down the road and push the power.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:30 AM   #8
02nismokiller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04Hybrid View Post
the MBC will out perform the ebcs bc the ebcs is alway opening and closing all the way a gew hundred time a second... the MBC is set to one level and stays there. the factory ebcs is only good through 20psi and the same with BOV.
Yes and no, the ebcs can hold the boost higher and it's better than popping the hood and having to turn a knob while tuning. And the oem bpv can be crushed to hold higher boost.**** I actually have forged bpv that ill sell with the kit with all the springs to adjust it for boost**** PM me if interested
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:49 AM   #9
sal_2132
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Thanks ill keep the pressure in mind for sure. I'm planning on getting the whole Guage set or maybe even a Cobb to monitor knock and everything else just for readings though since I'm doing open source.

Would e85 really be to much for the stock intercooler? Of course I'm planning further upgrades with it, but the cars been sitting for four months while I gather parts I just wanted to get it running already and add more later. I'm staying stock turbo for now and only hoping for about 350 whp.

So for break in, what viscosity should the oil be? And the rotella after?
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:52 AM   #10
sal_2132
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And is the biggest downside to having a mbc having to deal with going under the hood to adjust it while tuning? If that's all I think the tuner could deal with it til next tune lol just wanna be sure the car will run right and safe with it and not run lean since it doesn't adjust as easily as the ebc
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:06 PM   #11
Delphi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sal_2132 View Post
So I should keep the mbc to keep constant boost levels? The one I have was modified by previous owner to prevent boost creep just haven't tested it out myself yet.

And they're the og h beam rods. I will pick up the killerb oil pick up, but I was also looking into the oil coolers and air oil separates or is that over kill for what I have?

Would the 10 mm provide better flow at those clearences? I went bigger so I wouldn't make the same mistake twice but once I looked into it saw without the adjustments in the block it wouldn't make a difference, but would it actually be worst for it?
Air to Oil separater wont hurt to have. You could look into a hybrid boost control setup so you have the benefits of both MBC and ECBS. As far as the Oil setup a 10mm flows lets but has higher pressure. The 11mm is used on 08+Sti's because of the DAVCS. It needs that much more flow. You will for sure have the oil pump by-pass valve open far to soon since it flows more oil and you will be by-passing to much oil and can cause issues. 10mm is more than enough for those clearances and AVCS.

I just finished a build with 0.0015 main clearances and 0.0020 rod clearances with AVCS on a 2.5L. Still using the stock 10 mm pump without an issue turning to 7500 rpm.
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:12 PM   #12
02nismokiller
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Yes the stock intercooler isn't really to efficient not even on pump gas. Especially with e85 you'll need a upgrade, sti tmic at a minimum, but if your spending all the cash now, might as well do it right once. And yes I highly recommend a hybrid mbc/ebcs setup. Do everything tight once, you'll save time and money in the long run
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:30 PM   #13
sal_2132
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Thay makes sense. I've heard of people adjusting the pump to open sooner but I suppose it's better to get one with the already correct flow.

The sti top mount doesn't line up with the wrx fitment from what I've seen and intercooler could be really pricy. Any word on an appropriate intercooler for a good price. That was the original plan but once the parts started coming in I realized I'd need more then I've planned for so was just going for necessities first
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:41 PM   #14
Delphi
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The FMS Top Mount isn't a horrible unit. The BPV flange has the wrong bolt hole sizing so you will have to drill and tap to get it to fit correctly. Another unit I would consider is the Racer X front mount. It is designed to retain the stock crash beam, coolant tank, and an AEM intake. The price is pretty decent as well. http://dawicked1.wix.com/first#!'08-up-wrx-sti-fmic
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:23 PM   #15
04Hybrid
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MBC ftw.... ebc is much easier to work with bc you don’t have to go under the hood but mbc is much safer in high boost scenarios and as said before is more consistent as its not fluctuating at all internally.. I know with my 04 the sti and wrx intercoolers are the same everything minus the sprayer and the sti painted on it. Same dimensions!!!
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:21 PM   #16
sal_2132
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I'm not sure to what level I'll be boosting yet but I'll keep that in mind and if down the road I see I need the ebc it's an easy fix lol. As for the intercoolers on my model I believe the sti is about 2-3" longer and is center mounted not side mounted like the wrx. And I haven't found a good number that the intercooler works up to, but will find out and post results because an aftermarket one is a bit much right now.

It was recommended to get an oil pickup in my best interests. But I'm having difficulty finding specs on the convert pick up. Do any of you guys know if it's as good as the killerb pickup? killerb claims 3x more capacity, is it as good?
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:30 PM   #17
byastremski
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Just of curiousity, O.P. what oil were you running and how many miles before you spun the bearing? I'm due for an oil change on my 2014 hatch and have seen a few other people having bearing failures and oil consumption issues? Like to get this sorted before I too suffer the same issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pet3r View Post
Definitely add the Killer Bee pickup. Thats a mandatory upgrade if you ask me when building a proper motor.

I also prefer an EBCS but thats me.

I would also stay away from a bov, a MAF tune needs a bpv that recirculates to give the best results.

I've used both Amsoil and Brad Penn break-in oil. Brad Penn seems to be the mainstay with most of the high horsepower funny car and fuel altered builders I'm friends with (running 1800-2000hp engines). I used it on my latest engine and I've been meaning to send it off to Blackstone for a UOA. After that run with Shell Rotella T6 oil with oem oil filters. I switched to Rotella after 1200 miles on the motor. I'm also running a stock oil pump.
.
Pet3r...

Does this Shell Rotella T6 oil clearly state its for diesel truck use? I think I've seen it before, and have seen people mention it, but that through me off so I've been using mobil 1. Do you change your oil every 3000-3500 still? What weight is recommended?

O.P. also not trying to thread just learn how to avoid being in the same situation because I too have a goal of similar running e85.
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