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Old 02-25-2015, 01:09 PM   #1
bearly
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Default Opinion on Fifteen52 and ADV1

It's that time of year where most people who want some new wheels for the summer start placing orders. I've traditionally always run BBS wheels but it's time for a change.

I've been looking at a few wheel companies such as Fifteen52, HRE, ADV1 and advan wheels. Each company has a set of wheels that i swoon over. I know HRE and Advan wheels make super high quality wheels but the price is pushing me into an uncomfortable range. ADV1 and Fifteen52 seem to be a little new to me. Their prices don't seem to awful, but I know nothing about their quality.

Anyone have an opinion on their quality? Anyone in love with their Fifteen52 or ADV1? Have they held up? Does anyone have bad blood with either company?

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:08 PM   #2
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buy cheap wheels that fit

don't cry rivers when you destroy one and need a new one
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
buy cheap wheels that fit

don't cry rivers when you destroy one and need a new one
Terrible crap mindset^

Buy good strong wheels. Don't be an idiot when you drive. You'll keep the wheels for a longggg time.



I liked these SSRs on the GD
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:36 PM   #4
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I do like the SSR TF1. I was concerned with their wheel sizes. 18x9+32 I think it was I didn't want to go lower than 18x9+37

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Old 02-25-2015, 09:11 PM   #5
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They make an 18x9 +37.....
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:15 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by waaatchbov View Post
Terrible crap mindset^

Buy good strong wheels. Don't be an idiot when you drive. You'll keep the wheels for a longggg time.
Please explain what makes a "good strong wheel."
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:20 PM   #7
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Please explain what makes a "good strong wheel."
A wheel made with strong metals in a proper forging fashion with a strong spoke design?
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:43 PM   #8
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They make an 18x9 +37.....



Word thanks for the sizing sheet

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Old 02-26-2015, 12:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waaatchbov View Post
Terrible crap mindset^

Buy good strong wheels. Don't be an idiot when you drive. You'll keep the wheels for a longggg time.



I liked these SSRs on the GD

I did NOT say buy JUNK wheels

I said buy CHEAP wheels that FIT

there IS a HUGE difference

buying $500/ea(or more) wheels for a street car is an idiots move

buying $250/ea wheels is 'cheap' in comparison

there are plenty of 'cheap' wheels that aren't junk
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Old 02-26-2015, 12:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waaatchbov View Post
A wheel made with strong metals in a proper forging fashion with a strong spoke design?

you wouldn't know a 'strong metal' with a 'proper spoke design' if it bit you on your dick
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:18 AM   #11
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The only thing that I find as an issue with either brand is that most of their offerings are pretty heavy. Additionally, ADV.1 wheels tend to look better with very low offsets (then again, I've only ever dealt with ADV.1 wheels for GT-Rs).

As someone suggested before, SSR wheels are awesome. I've had a set of Weds as well, both brands look great in the +35-40 offset range.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:12 AM   #12
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Thanks for the input. The SSR TF1 has moved into a top slot. I need to make some inquires today during lunch with avant garde.



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Old 02-26-2015, 03:05 PM   #13
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Fifteen 52 has awesome customer service. Chris over there is great.

I can't say anything about ADV1, never dealt with them.

I have 3 sets of forged wheels at the moment and have owned Rotas and other replica cast wheels in the past on multiple different vehicles in multiple sizes.

I have never been on a track and I only have ever had 1 vehicle at a time as my daily driver. Every set of cast wheels I have had have gotten bends in them from being street driven. My BBS LMs were driven on the shortest sidewall tires of all of them and still spin perfectly true.

Quality cast wheels definitely aren't always bad. Forged wheels are pretty much always stronger and lighter in comparison but the cost is significantly higher. Just don't buy cheap junk knock off wheels, please.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you wouldn't know a 'strong metal' with a 'proper spoke design' if it bit you on your dick
Someone is a little upset.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:32 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by waaatchbov View Post
Someone is a little upset.
its quite clear from your responses you have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.

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Old 02-26-2015, 07:46 PM   #16
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As far as the barrels go, they're usually some kind of aluminum alloy. A strong barrel has the perfect balance of the metals that go into that (usually Aluminum and Nickel). A forged alloy will always be stronger than a cast alloy. As far as spoke design for the face, the thicker the spoke, the stronger the wheel will be. Also strength is impacted by where the spoke meets the barrel. Some placements are stronger than others.

Did I leave something out?
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by waaatchbov View Post
A strong barrel has the perfect balance of the metals that go into that (usually Aluminum and Nickel).
Congratulations, you've described most every wheel on the market (except for the high end magneseum wheels).

Quote:
A forged alloy will always be stronger than a cast alloy.
Wrong. Forging is great for making a wheel as light as possible, but strength....no.

Why are pretty much all competition rally wheels cast?

Quote:
As far as spoke design for the face, the thicker the spoke, the stronger the wheel will be.
I'd like to see proof to support those, otherwise, wrong.

My Braid WinraceTA's had pretty thin spokes. So do XD9's, so do NT03's, etc.

Quote:
Also strength is impacted by where the spoke meets the barrel. Some placements are stronger than others.
To a degree, but in general, also wrong.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Congratulations, you've described most every wheel on the market (except for the high end magneseum wheels).
Okay? There are also titanium wheels if that makes you any happier on my wheel knowledge..

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Wrong. Forging is great for making a wheel as light as possible, but strength....no.

Why are pretty much all competition rally wheels cast?
Rally wheels don't necessarily need to be forged because they usually have a large center and a ton of short little spokes around that. But a cast wheel will still do this:



in comparison to a forged wheel that would do this:
(LOTS OF BENDS)

But sure both wheels are toast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
I'd like to see proof to support those, otherwise, wrong.

My Braid WinraceTA's had pretty thin spokes. So do XD9's, so do NT03's, etc.
Thin spokes are more likely to break with an impact. Makes sense no? A tooth pick is more likely to break than a 2x4.

THIN SPOKE

VS.
THICKER SPOKE
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by waaatchbov View Post
Okay? There are also titanium wheels if that makes you any happier on my wheel knowledge..
Its cute, you trying to act smart.

Quote:
Rally wheels don't necessarily need to be forged because they usually have a large center and a ton of short little spokes around that.
Not only does this contradict your previous post (remember, forged wheels are always stronger right?), but you couldn't be further from the truth. They take a lot of different forms.





Quote:
But a cast wheel will still do this:
in comparison to a forged wheel that would do this:
(LOTS OF BENDS)
I've seen people try to use this argument before. The major flaw is that a failure is a failure. It doesn't matter if it bends, or shatters into a million pieces.

Anyone can google and find pictures of damaged or broken wheels expensive or cheap even factory, and all of them can failure in different ways.

Quote:
Thin spokes are more likely to break with an impact. Makes sense no? A tooth pick is more likely to break than a 2x4.
Not only do your pictures completely context, you again couldn't be further from the truth.

What matters (and what engineers are paid to design) is the way force gets transfered through the wheel.

Heres a magnesium race wheel (magnesium is weaker than 6061 aluminum), with few, thin spokes.


In conclusion, you've offered zero evidence, other than googling a few pictures that have no context.
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
its quite clear from your responses you have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.


ALL too common around heer, sadly

Quote:
In conclusion, you've offered zero evidence, other than googling a few pictures that have no context.
yeah...and that, too
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:17 AM   #21
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the BIGGEST issue with wheel bending is too little air pressure in the tires on the wheels

if ya think you need to run less than ~34psi....it is almost certain that you will bend whatever wheel you run at some point or another
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:53 AM   #22
bearly
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This thread got out of hand. I went with avant garde. Thanks for all the input. And I'd never buy a cast wheel. Forged is really the only way to go.

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Old 02-27-2015, 10:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bearly View Post
This thread got out of hand. I went with avant garde. Thanks for all the input. And I'd never buy a cast wheel. Forged is really the only way to go.

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Most avant garde wheels are cast

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a cast weel. Nothing.


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Old 02-27-2015, 10:04 AM   #24
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Wheels I bought are forged.

Also avant garde makes 75 different wheel styles. Of the 75 I believe less than 15 are cast. So most are NOT cast.

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Last edited by bearly; 02-27-2015 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:12 PM   #25
waaatchbov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
Not only does this contradict your previous post (remember, forged wheels are always stronger right?), but you couldn't be further from the truth. They take a lot of different forms.
They sometimes do, but they usually have one similar thing. A ton of spokes. It reinforces the wheel quite a bit. This is what they do to combat the usual "weakness" of a cast wheel. They also sometimes make an arc with the spoke which strengthens the wheel. But a cast rally wheel is pretty different from the cast "street wheels" available wouldn't you say?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
I've seen people try to use this argument before. The major flaw is that a failure is a failure. It doesn't matter if it bends, or shatters into a million pieces.
I did say that in the end both wheels are trashed anyway did I not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
What matters (and what engineers are paid to design) is the way force gets transfered through the wheel.
Just because you get paid do polish a turd, doesn't make it any less of a turd. Someone gets paid to do engineering for Rota and XXR.. and guess what? Those wheels are fragile and usually wont handle much stress before grenading.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
In conclusion, you've offered zero evidence, other than googling a few pictures that have no context.
Every picture I posted has relevance to what I said. The rally wheel took an impact on the barrel and it sheared off. The TE took an impact on the barrel and bent. (They're both toast I GET IT, but one failure is a little more catastrophic than the other)

The Cor wheel has thin spokes and is a "forged wheel" and it broke, proving my point that a thin spoke will break with less force applied than a thicker spoke. The Advan (also forged) has direct impact marks (and dents!) on the face of the wheel, but it didn't separate from the spokes.


But whatever, according to you I'll always be wrong and blah blah blah. No point in arguing with a fool who is arguing just to argue. Find someone else to bother. I'm done here.
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