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Old 01-07-2011, 12:24 PM   #226
SilverFleet
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Got those DWS's mounted today. They are worlds better than the Kumho ASX's that I had before. I need an alignment badly though. Here's a question about just that:

When I go for an alignment, should I deviate from the stock specs? Just looking at the car, it looks like the fronts have a ridiculous amount of positive camber. I haven't touched it since I bought it, and all the suspension components (save for a STI rear sway bar, which shouldn't matter) are stock. Again, I have 17x8 wheels with 245/40/17s on there. I'm thinking it needs a bit more negative camber in the front. FWIW, I did notice that the old tires had a lot of uneven wear on the inside of the tire. What do you guys think?
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:11 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverFleet View Post
Got those DWS's mounted today. They are worlds better than the Kumho ASX's that I had before. I need an alignment badly though. Here's a question about just that:

When I go for an alignment, should I deviate from the stock specs? Just looking at the car, it looks like the fronts have a ridiculous amount of positive camber. I haven't touched it since I bought it, and all the suspension components (save for a STI rear sway bar, which shouldn't matter) are stock. Again, I have 17x8 wheels with 245/40/17s on there. I'm thinking it needs a bit more negative camber in the front. FWIW, I did notice that the old tires had a lot of uneven wear on the inside of the tire. What do you guys think?
If your alignment specs are close to factory specs and you're STILL wearing out the inside of the tires, then your toe settings must have been off. Correct me if I'm wrong, but there are only two ways you can wear the inside of a tire prematurely: toe settings and excessive camber.

If you deviate from stock settings, it may result in better handling, but you'll most likely get more uneven tire wear. Also, if you do deviate, its a good idea to rotate the tires front to back, and diagonally more often than usual.

When you look at your car without precise measuring instruments, its very difficult to tell if you have positive camber even if it does look positive. You can never be sure until the car is on an alignment rack. But if the car had a ridiculous amount of positive camber, the outside of the tires should've worn faster than the inside.
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:17 PM   #228
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For DDing, max out front negative camber (stock is -10 minutes which is -0.166 deg) which should be around -1* and 0 toe at all 4 corners and zero thrust angle.

Some front and rear toe out will make the car turn a lot better but you'll get some accelerated tire wear.

Dutch Oven, in general toe will kill tires much faster than camber. However, people with a lot of camber who don't drive aggressively (ie their suspension doesn't compress much) and therefore their tire always rides with most weight on the inner part of the tire, can eat the inside....this is generally the case on the herra flushers.

Most autocrossers run with as much negative camber as they can get and still eat up the OUTside of the tires .
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:55 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09rexwagon View Post
For DDing, max out front negative camber (stock is -10 minutes which is -0.166 deg) which should be around -1* and 0 toe at all 4 corners and zero thrust angle.
This is along the lines of what I was thinking. I had similar settings on my old Bugeye wagon, and it worked out great. I didn't want to start messing with it before asking, as this is a completely different chassis. And you guys are right about measuring with the naked eye. You really can't tell without the proper shop equipment. The car seems to pull to the right after getting the new tires, which is new, so who knows what the settings are right now.
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:11 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezio View Post
I beleive you will rub without some camber and alot of fender work with a setup like that.

Cheap doesn't matter if it doesn't do what you need.

true that, then i was also considering a different tire size say a 235/40 or 235/35 (if they make them in that size)
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:08 PM   #231
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Got my wheels on yesterday!





Yea, yea....center caps I know >_<





I love the looks 9000 times more.

edit: O yea, the info. Enkei RPF1s 17x8, wheels are 235s and springs are Epic Engineering lowering springs (1 inch). No rolling of fenders or anything needed. Lugs are Works extended/open.

If anyone needs more technical info, lemme know.

Last edited by FightingFalcon; 01-18-2011 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 11:18 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip1098 View Post
Wheel Specs: XXR 518 Gold 18 x 8.5 / 48 offset
Tire and Specs: Falken Ze-502 225/40/18
Suspension: dropped about 1.25" w/ Megan Racing coilovers
Fender Modification: rolling/pulling necessary? NOPE
Wheel Spacers: how thick in mm, if applicable? NONE

** The 225's are stretched a bit and I just got a flat last night. Never came close to rubbing, so switching up to 235's. **
Looks good! Looking to do the Blue on Gold on my 09 WRX sedan as well. I've been considering your wheels or the XXR 522's for a while now. A few questions, are these wheels compatible with the TMPS? I have about the same amount of drop, how did the ride feel with the 18x8.5? Any fitment issues? Thanks in advance...
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:01 AM   #233
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Why do you guys buy 17s?
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:38 AM   #234
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Wheel Specs: Drag DR-31 18X8 5x100/114 35mm
Tire and Specs: BFGoodrich 235/40/18
Suspension: dropped about ? w/ Megan Racing coilovers
Fender Modification: Front and Rear by Tony.
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:40 AM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G_REX
Why do you guys buy 17s?
1) 18s look bad on stock calipers
2) Cost
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:43 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G_REX View Post
Why do you guys buy 17s?
I track my car. it makes more sense going through sets of cheaper 17" tires than to keep buying 18" tires over and over again.

I just picked up a set of 235/40 17 racing tires for 400 brand new. can't be beat in 18s.
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:47 AM   #237
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Weight also for some.
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:21 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezio
Weight also for some.
That too.

Why would I want an extra 3 lbs per wheel?
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:36 PM   #239
QwaktastiK
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Originally Posted by LRN2WRX View Post
Looks awesome. got any more pics? (preferably some showing off how much they poke.)
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:00 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FightingFalcon View Post
1) 18s look bad on stock calipers
2) Cost
In my opinion 17s look bad on the car... wouldn't you rather have something that looks good on the car overall than look good on the calipers?
I mean, at least you'll look forward getting a BBK

Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchOven View Post
I track my car. it makes more sense going through sets of cheaper 17" tires than to keep buying 18" tires over and over again.

If you track your car and to keep cost down can I understand...but why not just get 17s track specific wheels/tires and drive around in 18s which would be more aesthetically appealing...

I just picked up a set of 235/40 17 racing tires for 400 brand new. can't be beat in 18s.
I just picked up some 235/40-R18 for $500... $100 more for something that will last say 1-2 years is not a bad trade off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezio View Post
Weight also for some.
There are some affordable 18 inch light weight wheels...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FightingFalcon View Post
That too.

Why would I want an extra 3 lbs per wheel?
I just picked this up.... wheels + tires + TPMS = 44lb
I think I just saved just about 2lb to 3lb per corner...

TR Motorsport MT1 18x8.5 et48 5x100
Sumitomo HTR ZIII 235/40-R18

Thank You Tire Rack!

[img]
DSC_1279 by critical_gp, on Flickr[/img]

Last edited by G_REX; 01-22-2011 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:19 PM   #241
FightingFalcon
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44lb wheels? Like...per wheel?

Hot damn....mine are 15.4 per wheel.
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:32 PM   #242
G_REX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FightingFalcon View Post
44lb wheels? Like...per wheel?

Hot damn....mine are 15.4 per wheel.
44lb total... (compared to almost 47lb stock 2011 WRX wheels/tires)

Wheels are 18.5lb which is very good for the size. Wheels are manufactured by Enkei in Japan specifically for Tire Rack and sold under TR Motorsport brand...

Last edited by G_REX; 01-22-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:25 AM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G_REX View Post
TR Motorsport MT1 18x8.5 et48 5x100
what car did you search for to find these? when i sort by WRX, they dont show up as an option. only the C2's
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:31 AM   #244
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Volks CE28N 17x9 +44 5x100
15 lbs
Hankook Ventus V12 255/40 17
25 lbs
=
40lbs total

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Old 01-23-2011, 01:04 PM   #245
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04 STi they are on sale at the moment


Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
what car did you search for to find these? when i sort by WRX, they dont show up as an option. only the C2's

Last edited by G_REX; 01-23-2011 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:53 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchOven View Post
Volks CE28N 17x9 +44 5x100
15 lbs
Hankook Ventus V12 255/40 17
25 lbs
=
40lbs total

Got a picture? How is the inside/outside clearance and all that..?
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:42 PM   #247
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WORK Emotion XT7 - 18x9.5 +38mm 5x100 / 235/40 tire









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Old 01-25-2011, 08:13 PM   #248
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^^ Nice!!!! Any fender modification to fit those 18x9.5?
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:23 PM   #249
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Also what suspension?
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:53 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLkdubRX View Post
Im glad the first mod on my 09 was springs.. does anyone else have some with ~1.4-5 inch drop other than CMiller219?? (looks good by the way) especially for the sedan
Dropped 1.5" on Tein S Tech...going with an 18" wheel, debating on either XXR 522 or ROTA Grid...still debating on tire dimensions, any recommendations? Not looking to do any fender modifications...
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