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Old 03-15-2010, 11:17 AM   #1
dunk
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Default Dunk's 2010 Winter Rebuild Thread

I'm a little late to the game this year. I just returned from a seven month deployment (active duty Navy) but have a few things planned for the car.

Before I left on deployment last August Vern and I pulled the motor out the car so he could dissemble it and check it. Everything looked good, so it's going back together with a new set of bearings and rings.

For the car, I have a few minor things planned. No pictures yet, but I'll try and get some up this week.

- New rear wing from Kognition (72")
- Cool Suit (Christmas present from my wife )
- Removal of the passenger seat
- New front brake setup (details to follow)
- Minor changes to the brake ducting and backing plates.
- Lexan front windshield (tired of replacing glass every 2 weekends)
- Water cooled turbo

First project was to do some reconditioning of the trailer. Replaced all 4 leaf springs, equalizers, and shackles. Also replaced both driver side wheel bearings. Big thanks to Vern for the help.

I made some progress on the above last weekend. Battery is moved from the trunk to the passenger side floor to allow for the wing support. Seat is out, Cool suit is installed, and the engine bay ready to receive the engine.

Also fabricated the new brake backing plates.

Upgraded the tow vehicle as well.



-Duncan
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Last edited by dunk; 03-15-2010 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:23 PM   #2
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What was breaking the glass? Debris? Chassis flex?
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:12 AM   #3
dunk
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Just debris from rocks thrown up by sticky tires.

-Duncan
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:54 AM   #4
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Snapped some pictures of the smaller projects.

Cool suit and battery in their new location. Just need to shorten the positive cable and add a fuse.



Part of the ducting to ensure air gets into the radiator and doesn't flow around. They're aluminum with rubber piping so they don't damage the heat exchangers.





Brake backing plates. These match up to the quantum and RCE adapters already on the knuckle and ensure that air doesn't simply run out the back of the hat.



Water misting setup in its new location



Re-did the heat protection around the turbo.



-Duncan
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:27 AM   #5
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I keep reading your updates as Im building my car and I keep wondering what the hell you do for a living to have so much coin

Good job Duncan
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rokkit View Post
I keep reading your updates as Im building my car and I keep wondering what the hell you do for a living to have so much coin

Good job Duncan
He's doing a majority of the work himself which in the end saves a huge chunk of change.
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:24 PM   #7
dunk
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Any recommendations on a good fuse for the battery? I was using a car stereo fuse since I was in a hurry last time but I have a feeling there's something more appropriate.

-Duncan
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:56 PM   #8
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Everywhere I read to use an Audio fuse, something like this holder and the fuse to go with it...http://www.bestbuy.com/site/DB+Link+...=1218010850573
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
He's doing a majority of the work himself which in the end saves a huge chunk of change.
Yeah I'm doing all the work on mine solo (minus the cage) and it's still getting up there

Anyway - I've always used the audio battery fuses myself as they tend to have a good enclosure to protect it.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:30 PM   #10
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Dunk, Its Natchez. Good to hear your back from Deployment, Hope this summer I get a chance to eyef*ck your car like I always end up doing when its at Kienens.

Good Luck with the Build/Rebuild.
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Old 03-17-2010, 02:43 PM   #11
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Unless I learn something new, I'm using one of these in my rally car. They come in all different amp ratings.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...25431&id=50780

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Old 03-17-2010, 03:05 PM   #12
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We use ETA units at MSI ... as do most motorsport shops I believe.
http://www.e-t-a.com/us_aerospace.html
-mark
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunk View Post
Just debris from rocks thrown up by sticky tires.

-Duncan
Do you guys not sweep the tracks over there on the east side of the country? Dang every 2 weeks that's pretty bad!



DOH! I probably just jinxed myself
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by generalee69 View Post
Do you guys not sweep the tracks over there on the east side of the country? Dang every 2 weeks that's pretty bad!



DOH! I probably just jinxed myself
Well, when you have people who like to drop a complete side of a vehicle off the grass side of a gator....
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:08 PM   #15
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Thanks for the suggestions. I like the look of that 30amp breaker.

-Duncan
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunk View Post
Thanks for the suggestions. I like the look of that 30amp breaker.

-Duncan
I think they sell them all the way to 300 amps.

The starter motor is the highest draw. But, I haven't figured out how many amps it actually pulls.

MSI, what amp breakers do you use at the battery?
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:48 PM   #17
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I'd use the Circuit Breaker shown above... contact www.darvex.com or look on ebay for "bag-boy" which is the same guy. The guy's name is Trail, he is VERY enthusiast friendly.

Rob

edit: http://stores.ebay.com/Bag-Boy-Home-...34Q2ec0Q2em322
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15 View Post
Well, when you have people who like to drop a complete side of a vehicle off the grass side of a gator....
you drive a miata you should know that it happens from time to time
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misterwaterfallin View Post
you drive a miata you should know that it happens from time to time
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:10 PM   #20
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I use an 80 amp on my entire car so, the starter isn't drawing more than 80 amps (or starting is such a short amount of time it's not getting hot). I was surprised I wasn't popping the 80 amper. I was assuming I'd need 100+ amps. If I was buying something specifically for this, I'd probably put a 120 amp or even a 150 amp breaker on it. You're just trying to prevent melting the battery cable not protect the whole system. The rest of the car has it's own fuses.

Are the breakers slow-blow or instant? Slow blow means you can go over the rating for a short time (like cranking) and not blow the fuse. Non-slow blow will pop as soon as you go over the rating.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...5431&id=590019

I like this one.
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:15 PM   #21
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Are you using a car audio fuse holder and fuse?

-Duncan
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:23 PM   #22
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Yeah, car audio fuse. I've used several different styles but, the last fuse was one of those transparent inline fuses. When I had the really small battery in the box, I had a larger bolt down fuse holder. It would accept fuses up to 150 amps or so. When I switched to the larger battery, I lost the room and changed to the inline 80.

I kept the fuse in the battery box. You want it as close to the battery as possible.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:13 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSI View Post
We use ETA units at MSI ... as do most motorsport shops I believe.
http://www.e-t-a.com/us_aerospace.html
-mark
These are really nice. Blue Sea also makes magnetic breakers and they are probably a good bit cheaper. If you go breaker style you want magnetic.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:42 AM   #24
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Motor's going back in the car on Monday. Anybody have a good source for Deka batteries and the required terminal adapters?

thanks,

Duncan
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:00 PM   #25
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Got another project knocked out today. I removed the fans late last year as an experiment to see whether it would allow more air through the system. Because I had designed the inlet to work with the fan it didn't quite line up perfectly with the pipe I replaced it with. I corrected that today, but replacing the inlets with new pieces that slot into the duct.



As you can see, the two pieces now fit perfectly together.



I also made these little pieces. They bolt underneath the ABS sensor and make sure all the air from the quantum duct actually makes it into the rotor. With the design as delivered quite a bit of air can escape out the back of the duct.



And this picture is for Clint at TIC



Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to finish up the radiator inlet pieces. I'm running a 1/2 marathon in the morning so wish me luck.

-Duncan
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