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Old 03-16-2010, 06:36 PM   #1
pescatom
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Default wagon suspension - whiteline com c or camber bolts?

I'm trying to decide between the Whiteline Com C top hats and Camber bolts to get some more front camber out of my current setup. I will be running about 10 auto cross sessions and probably 1 or 2 track days this year. This is also my daily driver. After the install I wouldn't want to mess with it again until the winter. Any opinions or recommendations are welcome. Thanks!!! Mike

06 WRX Wagon
STi Wagon Pink springs, stock struts
Whiteline 22mm adj Rear Sway
Whiteline endlinks F+R
Whiteline strut tower braces F+R
04 STi BBS and 225/45 Star Specs on the way for summer

Last alignment:
Front Toe = 0
Front Camber -0.8
Rear Camber -1.5
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:37 PM   #2
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Definitely the Com-C tops, I don't trust camber bolts. I've seen them slip too many times.
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:55 PM   #3
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Another +1 for the Com-C's. Great set and forget kinda setup. Definitely a boon for us wagon folk who are camber challenged.
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:15 PM   #4
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Question: Is using both camber bolts and camber plates out of the question?
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:27 PM   #5
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Another +1 for the Com-C's. The added bonus is more caster, too.
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:33 PM   #6
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I have Com C's, like 'em. Personally I wouldn't do camber bolts up front.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formula91 View Post
Question: Is using both camber bolts and camber plates out of the question?
No but I don't know why you would want to. You can get plenty of camber with just plates.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost junkie View Post
No but I don't know why you would want to. You can get plenty of camber with just plates.
Thanks for the answer.

I was thinking about turning the camber plates a 1/3 turn to get caster instead. I'm not planning on getting the whitelines, but the gtworx plates.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:23 AM   #9
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Dialing in max camber with camber bolts lets you minimize SAI. This lets you maximize your camber gain from caster.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:39 PM   #10
pescatom
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Thanks for the comments fellas. I'm going to go with the com c's for now.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:50 PM   #11
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they really are not that much more than grp n mounts. grp n mounts plus camber bolts puts you at the same price as the com c's without the added caster.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:12 PM   #12
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Installed the com c's today. Went well after studying this:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...tallation.html

Took about 2 hrs by myself. I rented the spring compressor from autozone and bought an electric impact wrench from harbor freight along with some cheap impact sockets. Overall the hardest thing to do was to break loose the 19mm bottom strut bolt (after marking it with a paint marker so I could get the camber bolt back in to position as close as possible). And the most annoying was trying to tighten the 17mm top bolt. I can't figure out how to get it torqued to spec (41 ft-lb) since I can't use the torque wrench on it (have to hold the inner shaft with the allen key). Any hints?

Otherwise, it is definitely a noticeable improvement just on the quick test run around town. I haven't noticed an increase in noise/vibration/harshness. So far so good. Next step is an alignment.
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Old 03-21-2010, 12:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pescatom View Post
And the most annoying was trying to tighten the 17mm top bolt. I can't figure out how to get it torqued to spec (41 ft-lb) since I can't use the torque wrench on it (have to hold the inner shaft with the allen key). Any hints?
Use a rubber glove, grab the shaft so it doesn't spin, then zap it a few times with the impact wrench. You'll be fine as long as you don't go crazy. Esp w. the electric rattle gun.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushflyr View Post
Use a rubber glove, grab the shaft so it doesn't spin, then zap it a few times with the impact wrench. You'll be fine as long as you don't go crazy. Esp w. the electric rattle gun.

You just need a crow’s foot or dog bone the right size and you can still hold the Allen wrench, but a friend would make it easier.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:59 PM   #15
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Or get the right tool, which is a pass-through socket. There are more ways than one to get it done though, for sure.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:20 PM   #16
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Thanks for the suggestions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by UFOpilot View Post
Or get the right tool, which is a pass-through socket. There are more ways than one to get it done though, for sure.
Question...How does this accomplish torquing it to spec? I haven't seen pass through torque wrenches. I had no trouble tightening it using vice grips on a socket and holding the shaft with a hex key, but i can't tell how tight it is. Thanks!
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:27 PM   #17
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Do these change ride height at all?
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:35 PM   #18
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No - Same ride height as before (or at least I haven't noticed a change).
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:02 PM   #19
pescatom
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Just got it aligned yesterday... -2.1 Front Camber!!! Ready for autocross!
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:37 PM   #20
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^ did you set it in the max camber or max caster position?
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:48 PM   #21
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Max camber position.
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #22
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How much caster did it add?

Thank you
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:10 PM   #23
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Hey - I don't know. I was disappointed to learn that they didn't have a printout, and I did't ask them to write down the specs while they were doing it. Since I was mainly concerned with the front camber, he called me in while he was adjusting the bolt, and showed my on screen the max that it could get... -2.1. My bad for not thinking about writing it all down... He only charged me $50 so I'm happy with the end result.

I need to find a good shop with a freaking printer! This is my second experience with a "broken" printer. Seems that all of the small guys have old machines but are willing to work with you as opposed to the big brand stores that don't give a crap. (at least in my experience). My experience with a Firestone alignment was terrible. Numbers were all over the place.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pescatom View Post
Thanks for the suggestions...



Question...How does this accomplish torquing it to spec? I haven't seen pass through torque wrenches. I had no trouble tightening it using vice grips on a socket and holding the shaft with a hex key, but i can't tell how tight it is. Thanks!
You can get a pass through, which has faces to grip cut onto it, and a crow's foot that fits it. Then you use your torque wrench to get it. Just make sure the head is on facing straight when you set the final torque for accuracy. I realized the post before mine makes reference to the crow's foot, and I assume that we are telling you to do the same thing. Just don't over-tighten it, and if you end up not torquing it to spec please check it often.
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:23 PM   #25
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Thanks UFO. I get it now. Didn't understand the crow's foot tool. Now I do.
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