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Old 03-21-2010, 09:28 AM   #1
240sxguy
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Default Pictures of custom rotated kits?

These have seemed very easy to make since I have started visiting the forum and thought it would be an appropriate thread to get things kicked off.

Lets see it!

Evan
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:43 AM   #2
Bad Noodle
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Are you talking about rotating a stock turbo (IWG) or buying a turbo w/o the standard exhaust housing and rotating that?
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:47 AM   #3
240sxguy
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Okay lemme clarify;

Using a T3 flanged turbo with an external gate on a EJ motor.

Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #4
PrecisionCustom
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Here is some of my work. Did it all Solo











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Old 03-22-2010, 12:08 PM   #5
240sxguy
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Nice!
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:09 PM   #6
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:26 PM   #7
SSvsTheWorld
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Some sexy stuff right there
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:26 PM   #8
todeswalzer
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i came
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:00 PM   #9
eg33GC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny AKA gmrsti View Post

nice pulse function on your tig
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:37 AM   #10
Maverick7531
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Yea... really, Whoever did the welding did an amazing job - very consistant. Me likey!! ha.
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:14 PM   #11
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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yea, i dont pulse weld with my foot but the machine pulses 180 pps, it keeps the puddle inline very nicely. to be honest i dont even really pause while moving the torch and dipping. its all in the speed and feed buddy
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:05 PM   #12
eg33GC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny AKA gmrsti View Post
yea, i dont pulse weld with my foot but the machine pulses 180 pps, it keeps the puddle inline very nicely. to be honest i dont even really pause while moving the torch and dipping. its all in the speed and feed buddy
that it is!
which machine are you running? working with a miller sychrowave myself. I run about .25 pulse/second for the roll of stacked dime look.

Suck at pulse+filler though, always get hung up as far as consistent speed.
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:02 PM   #13
PrecisionCustom
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Pulse was designed strictly for penetration (thin material) and AC welding. It has nothing to do with puddle control. The angle of your torch, gas psi, size of cup, size of tungsten, high frequency start, and height of torch from work piece control puddle variance. But to be honest (Kenny AKA gmrsti) any noob can lay a bead like that in a grove where 2 metal thickness meet. Looks good, im not hating but the welding talk is just fun. 180pps you might as well just weld that mother in standard. gas to 25psi, 3/32 Thoriated Tungsten, sharp to a point with vertical grinding and 1/8 from collet body. your set to make a freaking rainbow. Your welds are almost hot enough that its burning the nickel content out of the stainless.
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:30 PM   #14
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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haha pulse setting makes 100% difference in puddle control and stability on stainless, esp at higher pps. i weld .025 -.035 304 and 321 all day every day. 1/16 lanth. or ceriated tungsten/ gas lens #8 cup (or large pyrex champaign cup with trailing sheild) 30A 160-180pps hs @80-90% ls to 30-40%, gas @ 13 back purge at 4/ .045 filler. Plus i can assure no NOOB could weld what i weld, let alone pretty or unboiled i have had plenty of guys come and try tho. oh yea all welding done on a dynasty200
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:34 PM   #15
PrecisionCustom
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LOL.. Yesss. Talking the tech.. I like this guy ^
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:36 PM   #16
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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haha yea just had to throw it down haha i bet everyone else in this thread went wtf just happened
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:39 PM   #17
todeswalzer
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lol wut





i wish i knew how to weld. not even good, but just know how to do it
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:43 PM   #18
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I am soooooooo loving this new section. Keep it up Kenny!!!
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:18 PM   #19
eg33GC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrecisionCustom View Post
Pulse was designed strictly for penetration (thin material) and AC welding. It has nothing to do with puddle control. The angle of your torch, gas psi, size of cup, size of tungsten, high frequency start, and height of torch from work piece control puddle variance. But to be honest (Kenny AKA gmrsti) any noob can lay a bead like that in a grove where 2 metal thickness meet. Looks good, im not hating but the welding talk is just fun. 180pps you might as well just weld that mother in standard. gas to 25psi, 3/32 Thoriated Tungsten, sharp to a point with vertical grinding and 1/8 from collet body. your set to make a freaking rainbow. Your welds are almost hot enough that its burning the nickel content out of the stainless.
hey, he can read a catalogue!
Pulse has EVERYTHING to do with how the puddle appears.
Ever hear of Pulse-on-pulse MIG? Pulsing wire transfer from globular to spray. It makes it look like a robotic TIG weld..
HF has NOTHING to do with Steel welding. NOTHING. It is a MUST for Al and nonFE metals, but it is pointless in a steel setting(besides starting arc)

And the discoloration when welding stainless is a BAD thing. It's funny how people recognize the bluing as a quality trait.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:35 PM   #20
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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ahh so true, the colors everyone loves so much are actually not the best. after consulting with miller on a couple projects i was lead on to hyd/arg mix gas which did do a much better job of keeping the final product silver just like the base metal. it was nice but extra money and a slower weld time made it impractical for production. Shiny silver welds are the key to welding like a pro. lowest possible heat for perfect penetration and bead height, and the right amount of cool time in the gas (by trailing sheild or ...)
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:59 PM   #21
hoffmanEstates
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i love the intake manifold and custom exhaust work
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:23 PM   #22
PrecisionCustom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg33GC View Post
hey, he can read a catalogue!
Pulse has EVERYTHING to do with how the puddle appears.
Ever hear of Pulse-on-pulse MIG? Pulsing wire transfer from globular to spray. It makes it look like a robotic TIG weld..
HF has NOTHING to do with Steel welding. NOTHING. It is a MUST for Al and nonFE metals, but it is pointless in a steel setting(besides starting arc)

And the discoloration when welding stainless is a BAD thing. It's funny how people recognize the bluing as a quality trait.

LOL. Do u know what HF is. lol, I like how u say it has nothing...NOTHING to do with steel welding then say but the start. High freq is F-en huge when it comes to steel welding period. The amount of HF controls how wide or small your arc is. It also controls the arcs start-ability. And your pointless MIG welding talk is kinda lame. On your own level i guess. I bet Kenny is getting a little laugh on this. He actually knows what he is saying. Well im not trying to have a big dick contest here but I posted some work. The comment on the color of a weld is also incorrect. Stainless can tell you allot from its color. Lots of blue and purple is cold and most likely did not penetrate correctly. Ideal color for stainless (Pretty much any series) is gold or siliver. Gray or discolored completely is very bad. Porosity is present and the piece has become work hardened. Making it brittle and likely to crack. Pulse has nothing to do with puddle control or stability period. It controls the amount of amperage across the signal at any given rate. Stability is controlled through connections to the work piece, amount of space from work piece, environment your in, and a whole lot more variables but pulse.
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:20 AM   #23
jays05
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Key features of my kit:

gruppe-s UEL header that's had the outlet ported to 2.5" ID, with a v-band flange welded on
custom 2.5" ID uppipe
custom 3" downpipe with a QTP e-cutout
custom 3" intake
custom FMIC with 3" piping end-to-end and a garrett 24x12x3.5" IC core
tial 44mm ewg dumped to the ground






This whole kit was designed with airflow in mind. The EWG merge on the uppipe is perfect, and the FMIC piping doesn't have any sharp bends in it at all.
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:39 AM   #24
PrecisionCustom
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Looks sick Jay. Good work man
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:21 AM   #25
FourOnTheFloor65
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I've honestly never used the pulse function on my Thermal Arc 185. I haven't welded a lot of thinner steel/stainless with it, so I've never played around with it. I have seen people use it at around 1 to 4 pps to help them stay consistent and keep that stack of dimes look. I don't really understand what pulsing at high rates like 180 pps is doing. Does it just reduce the width of the HAZ, or reduce penetration while keeping the puddle wider? With you guys talking about it, it makes me want to play around with it. I've got some 304 16 gauge tubing laying around I need to practice on anyways. I've spent a lot more time welding aluminum, so I always end up adding too much filler and over correcting using the pedal when welding steel. It's weird how different aluminum is. Any recommendations on what to do so I would see a big difference from pulsing?

Another question about back purging. If I was going to weld something that I actually cared about, and not just scrap tubing, I'd go ahead and pick up another regulator and hose for my other argon bottle and back purge the tubing. Since I am practicing, is it going to make any difference in the behavior of the puddle or how it welds, not back purging. I realize there will be all kinds of chromium precipitation on the inside of the tube, but will back purging make welding any different?

Last edited by FourOnTheFloor65; 03-25-2010 at 12:31 AM.
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