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Old 04-04-2010, 01:30 PM   #51
syndromeofthedown
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Originally Posted by PrecisionCustom View Post
Dynasty 300 FTW. I had to learn the hard way about anodization. Be careful when u weld aluminum and have to get things anodized. I forget which one it is but between 5356 and 4043 one of them will make your welds look black after being anodized. Get at me if you need and tips on the manifold Nitro. I would love to help ya out. PS Thank you
I LOVE it!!! You're a tech for Lincoln but you use a Miller Dynasty. Classic!!! Just some food for thought, I weld sanitary stainless piping for a living... If some of you are daring enough to try it, you'd find that with any pulse welder or one without for that matter, and a purge set-up, you can weld PERFECT beads with 100% flat penetration without having to use one iota of filler wire.
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:43 PM   #52
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I've honestly never used the pulse function on my Thermal Arc 185. I haven't welded a lot of thinner steel/stainless with it, so I've never played around with it. I have seen people use it at around 1 to 4 pps to help them stay consistent and keep that stack of dimes look. I don't really understand what pulsing at high rates like 180 pps is doing. Does it just reduce the width of the HAZ, or reduce penetration while keeping the puddle wider? With you guys talking about it, it makes me want to play around with it. I've got some 304 16 gauge tubing laying around I need to practice on anyways. I've spent a lot more time welding aluminum, so I always end up adding too much filler and over correcting using the pedal when welding steel. It's weird how different aluminum is. Any recommendations on what to do so I would see a big difference from pulsing?

Another question about back purging. If I was going to weld something that I actually cared about, and not just scrap tubing, I'd go ahead and pick up another regulator and hose for my other argon bottle and back purge the tubing. Since I am practicing, is it going to make any difference in the behavior of the puddle or how it welds, not back purging. I realize there will be all kinds of chromium precipitation on the inside of the tube, but will back purging make welding any different?
You can still back purge without using your pulse function. The trick to back purging is having the right sized hole (approx 3/16) in your end plug, and yes, a secondary hose and regulator to adjust a separate purge flow from your shielding gas flow. This is the most important part. You must mess around with amperage via your footpedal to achieve proper penetration and the cfm of your purge gas to make sure your weld "sits" how you want it. Too much flow your weld will bulge on the outside, too little flow and your weld will "suck back" into the tube. When welding WITHOUT pulse the general rule of thumb is 1 AMP per .001" you're welding on. So, 16 gauge is roughly a 1/16"=.0625" so set your unpulsed machine at around 65 AMPS and then play with it. Start in one spot and finish on that same spot all while traveling in the same direction. Be sure to overlap your start position by a 1/4" or so the begin to taper your heat off with the foot pedal. That's pretty much it. You just need to find what heat and cfm feels comfortable for you.
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:01 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by syndromeofthedown View Post
I LOVE it!!! You're a tech for Lincoln but you use a Miller Dynasty. Classic!!! Just some food for thought, I weld sanitary stainless piping for a living... If some of you are daring enough to try it, you'd find that with any pulse welder or one without for that matter, and a purge set-up, you can weld PERFECT beads with 100% flat penetration without having to use one iota of filler wire.






LOL..... Kinda cliche I may say so my self. But when it comes to being a welder, a person, and overall taste you can't get much better than the Dynasty series. Been welding for 20 yrs and prefer Miller Tigs over Lincolns. Our MIG will out perform any other machine. Keeps being proved year on and on. Also, very sound advice on the purge. The food and medical industry has the highest standard when it comes to welding. As far as fusing it is kinda a debate. I prefer to add filler metal just for the simple fact of strength and proper science. Keep up the good pointers guys.
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:04 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by syndromeofthedown View Post
You can still back purge without using your pulse function. The trick to back purging is having the right sized hole (approx 3/16) in your end plug, and yes, a secondary hose and regulator to adjust a separate purge flow from your shielding gas flow. This is the most important part. You must mess around with amperage via your footpedal to achieve proper penetration and the cfm of your purge gas to make sure your weld "sits" how you want it. Too much flow your weld will bulge on the outside, too little flow and your weld will "suck back" into the tube. When welding WITHOUT pulse the general rule of thumb is 1 AMP per .001" you're welding on. So, 16 gauge is roughly a 1/16"=.0625" so set your unpulsed machine at around 65 AMPS and then play with it. Start in one spot and finish on that same spot all while traveling in the same direction. Be sure to overlap your start position by a 1/4" or so the begin to taper your heat off with the foot pedal. That's pretty much it. You just need to find what heat and cfm feels comfortable for you.





65AMPS........... RULES OF THUMB!!!!.... START AS LOW AS POSSIBLE. WORK UP NOT DOWN
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:49 PM   #55
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LOL..... Kinda cliche I may say so my self. But when it comes to being a welder, a person, and overall taste you can't get much better than the Dynasty series. Been welding for 20 yrs and prefer Miller Tigs over Lincolns. Our MIG will out perform any other machine. Keeps being proved year on and on. Also, very sound advice on the purge. The food and medical industry has the highest standard when it comes to welding. As far as fusing it is kinda a debate. I prefer to add filler metal just for the simple fact of strength and proper science. Keep up the good pointers guys.

I don't know of one pipe welder in the sanitary industry personally that does not use the fusion method. No one uses any filler wire when "walking the cup" on process piping for sanitary reasons. I say on the piping...however, when welding a fitting on or things of that nature filler IS used. We use a "no-gap" method and just wiggle away as I'm sure you're aware of. It's good to know there are some guys out here who care about form and function i.e. appearance with proper penetration. It appears all too often that some clown welds with the wrong shielding gas or none at all. Mind boggling. If only everyone could feel how it's so easy to weld with quality when you know what you're doing and the parameters are set correctly.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:53 PM   #56
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im amazed but at the same token im not, seeing how much dedication and the level off atention to detail i espect nothing short of one of a kind work you the man.

do you do outside orders as far as one of pieces by order?
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:27 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by slava from goshen View Post
instead of just pics can people post up specs as well. like:
what type of material used (size, lengths, bends, thinkness, etc), where purchased and pics of actual pieces maybe some dimensions.







Can't give away all the goodies.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:23 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slava from goshen View Post
instead of just pics can people post up specs as well. like:
what type of material used (size, lengths, bends, thinkness, etc), where purchased and pics of actual pieces maybe some dimensions.

Not gonna lie. I used all my old parts. I just made everything fit around the turbo, lol
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:23 AM   #59
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Those are the welds I am willing to pay pat for only closer to the east Coast very nice welds indeed Kenny
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:37 AM   #60
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some progress pics of my build.



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Old 04-23-2010, 08:14 AM   #61
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Epic idea with the jack stand. I say you send me that setup and let me put the hurt to it. Looks like you had a pigeon attack out your way. lol.. Major props on the build olsen. My camera is busted so I can't post updates of my ride.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:27 AM   #62
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i know lol. my welds aren't exactly perfect... they get the job done though haha... fix that camera so we can see some updates.
just took this. damn she is soo close.
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:08 PM   #63
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thats some serious angle on that turbo. you sure it can be mounted like that without leaking oil?
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:07 AM   #64
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i sure as hell hope so lol. i gotta tap my oil pan on thursday, then i will know for sure... it's not as angled as the pics make it look. it does have more angle than most other setups though.
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Old 05-02-2010, 11:17 PM   #65
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Couple pics of mine, built by Scot Moiter at MAC in denver. The DP will be finished when I take it for a tune. The origanl one was made for a garret vband and Im using a PT&E t55b.




pic with gt35r while not in car.


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Old 05-05-2010, 04:05 AM   #66
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lookin good
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:38 PM   #67
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wow Olsen when you having it done so we can go drive again??

Is the turbo setup gonna make your car sound a little better? Just giving you shat..... lol Next meet i want to see ya out there and see the setup

Also you now have tempted me on doing my 35R......
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:22 AM   #68
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i have a little bit more to do on it. i gotta wait for my bov and bov flange to come in the mail. also my oil drain bung. then i just gotta fab an intake. and it should be ready to go... i sure as hell hope it sounds better. it should be much quieter until that wastegate starts dumping. it will definitely be done by summer. i hope to have it done by the end of the month, but who knows.

do the 35. it will be sick man. high power wagons are the cool thing to do lol
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Old 07-04-2010, 06:02 PM   #69
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all finshed up. i am actually in the process of switching turbos. but this is my finished kit
i also think i might go through and convert my short ram into a full cold air intake.

^new turbo

Last edited by olsen726; 07-30-2010 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:20 AM   #70
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You sir, are awesome!

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Old 07-31-2010, 10:48 PM   #71
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^winner!!!!!!
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:09 PM   #72
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Anyone of you have drawings of the pipes for a rotated kit? PM me if you do.

How much are you guys spending on making the uppipe, downpipe, and dump tube? I am thinking about making my own kit V-bands everywhere and run a 30r or a PTE 5857.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:40 AM   #73
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this is where i got most of my tubing/ flanges. http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
i just went out to my car and eyeballed where i wanted the turbo to sit, and figured out how much material, and what bends i would need, then ordered my tubing and flanges accordingly

i dont remember how much i spent for all of my piping... i think it was somewhere around 200 for the piping and flanges for my up/dp and dump tube
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:29 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olsen726 View Post
this is where i got most of my tubing/ flanges. http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
i just went out to my car and eyeballed where i wanted the turbo to sit, and figured out how much material, and what bends i would need, then ordered my tubing and flanges accordingly

i dont remember how much i spent for all of my piping... i think it was somewhere around 200 for the piping and flanges for my up/dp and dump tube
Thats super cheap.... What piping size and gauge do you used? I was thinking about using this:
Quote:
use sch 10 pipe or 11 gauge for the up pipe , 16 ga for dp.
I also was thinking about buying an Ebay DP and uppipe and modifying them for a rotated setup

Last edited by juanmedina; 08-03-2010 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:48 AM   #75
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i used 2.25" 304ss for the up-pipe,i believe it was 16 gauge... and thats exactly what i did for my downpipe, i bought a used ebay 3" turboback exhaust from a buddy for $40 and modified the downpipe to work
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