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Old 06-29-2010, 08:57 PM   #276
retrac
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I could specify WHAT variables I suppose.. LOL

Like constantly changing conditions or a tune that "works" in 50 states.

How do you like the AEM sensor kit?
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:24 AM   #277
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So what I read from this thread is the 18g-xt turbo is too small for an STi?
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:56 AM   #278
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AP has speed density for 2005 LGT..
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:24 AM   #279
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I'm not sure yet but if some of the rich spots on the speed density map I'm running now are worked out I could also see speed density as a fuel saving map for those who want the power but some economy, once I switch to anti lag mode I'm running 10:1 and nearly instant full boost just the cruisng part that's a pita and time consuming
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:28 PM   #280
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Why would you ever want to cruise with ALS on? The 10:1 makes sense if you understand that while the ALS is on your dumping raw fuel into the headers due to the majorly retarded timing.

Everyone elses cruise will trim itself to 14.7:1 the only way to get better milage is to lean that out to around 16:1 and add more timing in the cruise ranges or do at least one of those items. I found that the fuel quality here in AK doesn't allow for to much more timing though over what our cars run stock at cruise. The best way to increase MPG is to have a lighter foot, the car when in closed loop will do the rest.

I have built tunes for my car to run to Anchorage and even with a very lean mix the MPG gains were not amazing (1-2 MPG) there was also additional stress from the higher EGTs.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:32 PM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiLpNoY View Post
So what I read from this thread is the 18g-xt turbo is too small for an STi?

Not to small if you intend to use it for things like Autox but if your looking for peak power in drag races and events like that then you may find it comes up a little short. It really comes down to what your goals are for power and how you intend on using the car mainly.
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:21 PM   #282
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Are we looking at 11sec for drag? Or just low 12s mostly dd and autocross
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:27 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiLpNoY View Post
Are we looking at 11sec for drag? Or just low 12s mostly dd and autocross
I doubt you will see 11's with the 18g but anything is possible with 109 octane...lol

Lower 12s and good spool(well before 4000rpm full torque)
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:03 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
Why would you ever want to cruise with ALS on? The 10:1 makes sense if you understand that while the ALS is on your dumping raw fuel into the headers due to the majorly retarded timing.

Everyone elses cruise will trim itself to 14.7:1 the only way to get better milage is to lean that out to around 16:1 and add more timing in the cruise ranges or do at least one of those items. I found that the fuel quality here in AK doesn't allow for to much more timing though over what our cars run stock at cruise. The best way to increase MPG is to have a lighter foot, the car when in closed loop will do the rest.

I have built tunes for my car to run to Anchorage and even with a very lean mix the MPG gains were not amazing (1-2 MPG) there was also additional stress from the higher EGTs.

Anti lag setting is rpm set and only comes on over 3500. During cruise I'm
not in that mode. The way I had it wrote was a little misleading.
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Old 07-03-2010, 12:55 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
I doubt you will see 11's with the 18g but anything is possible with 109 octane...lol

Lower 12s and good spool(well before 4000rpm full torque)
Can you achieve that with the 20g-xt? Say you run a TMIC and EL headers. A quick spool around 3k - 4k rpm?
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Old 07-03-2010, 02:31 AM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenspeed View Post
Anti lag setting is rpm set and only comes on over 3500. During cruise I'm
not in that mode. The way I had it wrote was a little misleading.
what are you talking about, launch control
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Old 07-03-2010, 03:05 AM   #287
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No. The anti-lag window, it's not set to ALWAYS be in anti-lag mode.
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:50 PM   #288
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A lot will depend on the driver of course. On race gas I think it could be done. Not sure though and the TMIC even a larger one may still be an issue. I would also add water injection to the mix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LiLpNoY View Post
Can you achieve that with the 20g-xt? Say you run a TMIC and EL headers. A quick spool around 3k - 4k rpm?
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Old 07-14-2010, 03:21 AM   #289
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So I have decided that my car either 1. Is bipolar or 2. Hates Derrick. It has been running great since whenever we talked to you last. Coming home from Bear Paw Sunday with the boys in the car, it started acting up again - feels like a horrific misfire, but was a little different this time. It was at cruising speed (65 mph) in 5th gear, not when trying to accelerate like before. So that night Derrick was off so he did my oil change, filter and did a fuel filter and spark plugs. So yesterday I was driving to Wasilla and 55 mph in 4th or 5th gear made it miss. But it doesn't really miss under load and seems to be boosting ok. So today I'm expecting the worst and NOTHING! I drove the crap out of her and couldn't get it to misfire! ACK!!!! So Derrick wanted me to get in touch with you about scanning it and possibly tuning it. I'm going to be in Washington the 22 through Aug 3 and was wondering if we could drop it off while I'm gone. Derrick will still be around. Let me know! Gracias!!!
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:38 PM   #290
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It is best to take a simplified approach with problems like this. First off we will be happy to take a look at the car, just give us a call before you want to drop it by the shop.

I will post up some basics for informational reasons here in the thread.

You have covered the hot spots with fuel and plugs. Next I would clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and check all the vac lines and boost hoses for leaks, cracks, etc. I would also take a look at all electrical connections and grounds.

You mentioned the issue seems to be off boost and at cruise, I have run into issues with the front O2 sensor being bad or starting to fail. The O2 sensor does not always trip a check engine light when it is going out. The sensors seem to start to go around 50k-70k miles on some of these cars. The symptoms can be stange surging, cutting out, bumping, hunting, or a towing a trailer feeling. The car uses this sensor to trim the fuel mix while your cruising and at idle, if it starts to feed back wrong info the engine will make false adjustments. The sensor is offline during boost or harder acceleration.

Several other sensors can cause what your describing but they are more rare to fail.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAshSuby View Post
So I have decided that my car either 1. Is bipolar or 2. Hates Derrick. It has been running great since whenever we talked to you last. Coming home from Bear Paw Sunday with the boys in the car, it started acting up again - feels like a horrific misfire, but was a little different this time. It was at cruising speed (65 mph) in 5th gear, not when trying to accelerate like before. So that night Derrick was off so he did my oil change, filter and did a fuel filter and spark plugs. So yesterday I was driving to Wasilla and 55 mph in 4th or 5th gear made it miss. But it doesn't really miss under load and seems to be boosting ok. So today I'm expecting the worst and NOTHING! I drove the crap out of her and couldn't get it to misfire! ACK!!!! So Derrick wanted me to get in touch with you about scanning it and possibly tuning it. I'm going to be in Washington the 22 through Aug 3 and was wondering if we could drop it off while I'm gone. Derrick will still be around. Let me know! Gracias!!!
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:15 PM   #291
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I have a 07 sti with a AP2 I have done built bottom end, TVG deletes, perrin fuel rails, ID1000 injectors, DB20g, FMIC Perrin/APS hybrid, the car is experiencing a lot of knock and it doesn't matter if the tuner changes the timing or the fuel... the car also experience's high EGT's.... It almost seems like the 07 sti ECU is bugger, I have a aquamist system as well but we haven't even been able to tune the basic tune before tuning with water/meth.
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:00 PM   #292
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doesn't sound like the car functioning mechanically wise if your having trouble dialing it in, seems like the injectors are not scaled correctly or not working properly. go over everything to make sure everything is hooked up right, do you have an after market fuel pressure regulator?
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:14 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasnowman View Post
I have a 07 sti with a AP2 I have done built bottom end, TVG deletes, perrin fuel rails, ID1000 injectors, DB20g, FMIC Perrin/APS hybrid, the car is experiencing a lot of knock and it doesn't matter if the tuner changes the timing or the fuel... the car also experience's high EGT's.... It almost seems like the 07 sti ECU is bugger, I have a aquamist system as well but we haven't even been able to tune the basic tune before tuning with water/meth.

I wish I could give you the easy answer but there is so many things that could cause this. If you brought the car to me here is what I would do first...

1. Visual inspection of all hoses, lines, etc. Followed by a physical boost leak check as well as a leak check pre-turbo. Pre-turbo leaks cause lean conditions, post turbo will cause rich conditions.

2. Get the stock tune for your ECU and flash it onto your ECU with alterations made to scale the injectors and remove the CEL codes associated with your mods. Zero the max wastegate duty cycle tables.

3. Start the car and check the short/long term fuel trims at idle. Cruise around a little and see how the fuel trims look after some basic (easy) driving. If trims are staying within 6%-8%+- then try some pulls on the low boost setting while logging or watching fuel, FBKC, rpm, load, IAM/DAM. The log will be crowded and lacking resolution but it will give you a basic idea of how things are going. On the stock maps and low boost things should be pretty good aside from some hot spots on the timing maybe. If your major knock problems went away at this point then you know you had a tune problem.

Some things to consider....Pass the word to your tuner...To much fuel WILL cause knock...To little timing WILL cause knock as much as to much timing when combined with excessive fueling...

Loose the 1000cc injectors get some decent 850CC DW injectors, they will idle better and meter better and never max out on a 20g turbo with meth/water running.

Don't worry about EGTs right now it is no surprise they are high if your car is knocking its pulling timing and dumping fuel which will lead to an EGT issue.

If you want more help we need to see logs and get a lot more details. Also we need a better idea of when the knock is happening, during spool up?, shift knock?, cruise knock?, etc...

Ohh just thought of another thing to check....Log in romraider a field called roughness #1-#4 at idle and note any cyl that seems to have a high number, try blipping the throttle a little and see if one of the cyls seems to stand out. If you do find one you may want to check the injector, coil pack, and plug for that cyl. Any of those items could lead to your issues.

Last edited by P3Auto; 08-09-2010 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:51 PM   #294
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I have a '06 WRX flashed with Cobb Stage 1 off-the-shelf map. This morning my car threw a couple trouble codes related to the secondary air injection. I cleared the codes using the "reset ecu" function on the AP and they haven't come back yet. However, the DAM will not budge from .6. I've driven for at least an hour, both lugging it around on partial throttle, and spirited WOT. The DAM will not move above .6. What's going on?!? I've reflashed the realtime map to no avail. Should I try a full reflash? The car is very sluggish with the DAM so low...
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:16 PM   #295
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The default DAM after an ECU reset (unless changed by tuner) is .5. for the number to rise to 1.0 (best) a number of conditions have to be met over time. There are some ways to trick the ECU into raising the multiplier if you search around (called vishnu I think). I'm not sure since I don't mess around with those methods.

I would say if your car is not giving you full timing then you probably have something going on that is causing the car to knock or at least think it is. Again there is no simple answer without more details. Here are reasons for a lower multiplier:

Poor tune.
Poor fuel.
Boost leak or vac leak.
Fuel pump or injector issue.
Spark plug issue.
Coil pack.
Blocked Exhaust.
Blocked Intake or IC.

The list kind of goes on and on. Check the easy stuff first. Unless you know for sure that your IAM/DAM us usually 1.0 then .6 may be normal for your conditions and tune. Its not really considered a bad thing until you drop below .5. Remember the IAM/DAM was designed to allow your car to adjust to fuels and environs.
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Old 08-10-2010, 10:08 PM   #296
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It seems the ECU finally learned. After a couple hours of varied driving it jumped to .9 then 1.0 shortly after. Maybe it took alot than it had in the past becuase its hot? What are the number of conditions that must be met? For future reference...and thx for your help!
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:54 PM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoldKermit View Post
It seems the ECU finally learned. After a couple hours of varied driving it jumped to .9 then 1.0 shortly after. Maybe it took alot than it had in the past becuase its hot? What are the number of conditions that must be met? For future reference...and thx for your help!

Some info I wrote in the past high level overview:

http://www.tunerscorner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23


From Romradiers site (not my text lots of detail):

Rough correction involves manipulating the IAM (ignition advance multiplier) due to knock. This has the result of correcting timing advance across the board (timing advance maximum * IAM/16). The IAM can range between 0-16 for the 16-bit ECU.

The ECU has two modes of operation - rough correction or fine correction. That is, the ECU is either poised to possibly make corrections to the IAM (rough correction) or to possibly make changes to the fine learning knock correction table (described later), but not both at the same time. But, just because the ECU is in either of these modes, does not mean changes to the IAM or the fine learning knock correction (FLKC) table will be made. Therefore, there are two sets of thresholds for each mode. One set determines when to switch between modes (different depending on the current mode) and another set to determine whether changes to the IAM or FLKC table will be made in their respective modes. NOTE: After an ECU reset, the ECU defaults to the rough correction mode.

To exit from fine correction mode to rough correction mode, ALL of the following requirements must be met:
  • Engine speed and load must be within the ranges specified by the 'Rough Correction Range' tables.
  • Timing advance (maximum) map value is greater than 4.9 degrees.
  • Some FLKC value change (positive or negative) occured last execution.
  • The last FLKC applied value (|x|) is greater than 3.9 degrees (that is, the absolute correction -> ex. -4 = 4)
  • The last FLKC raw difference (|y| * 2.84) is greater than last timing advance (maximum) map value.
  • (IAM > 1) or (IAM <= 1 and last applied FLKC was positive).
Once in rough correction mode, the following requirements must be met each time in order to make any change to the IAM. That is, even though the ECU is in rough correction mode, it will not always be adjusting the IAM:
  • Current timing advance (maximum) map value > 3.9 degrees ("Rough Correction Minimum Timing Advance Map Value").
  • Limp-home mode not active (IAM would already be 0 in this case)
  • FBKC is disabled.
  • IAM step value > 1 (explained below)
If these are met, the following will occur, however, only after switching between the fine correction mode to the rough correction mode. That is, these will only be executed once each time the switch to the rough correction mode from fine correction mode occurs and right before a change to the IAM is going to occur:
  • IAM is set to the 'Advance Multiplier (Initial)' value
  • IAM step value is set to 4 ("Advance Multiplier Step Value", described below)
  • IAM learning delay counter set to 0 (explained below)
  • The entire FLKC table in ram is cleared.
The knock signal is checked. If clear (i.e. no knock):
  • The IAM learning delay counter is checked. If the current value is less than the delay target specified by the 'Rough Correction Learning Delay (Increasing)' table then the counter is incremented (similar to the delay for FBKC). When the current value is greater than the delay target, then the IAM is increased. On the first run through, IAM is always advanced by 4 ("Advance Multiplier Step Value"). It remains 4 as long as it is keeps increasing the IAM (up to 16). However, if during the last execution the IAM was decreased, the IAM step value is reduced by 1/2. This occurs each time the IAM flip-flops. When the IAM step value is less than or equal to 1, the rough correction mode ends (after applying one last change to the IAM) and the ECU switches to fine correction mode. Basically, this is the way the ECU determines that the IAM has settled.
If the knock signal is set (i.e. knock):
  • There is no delay for decreasing the IAM. However the counter value is cleared because knock was detected.
  • Other than no delay, the rest of the logic is basically the same as when the IAM is increasing except that the IAM is decreased.
In addition, when the IAM is 0 or 16, after a slight delay of remaining at these extremes, the ECU will switch to fine correction mode regardless of the current IAM step value. This would be necessary if there was not enough "settling" before reaching these extremes to exit the rough correction mode.

Note, that when the IAM has finally "settled", the ECU will switch from rough correction mode to fine correction mode. Fine correction mode will continue until the mode switch conditions listed at the beginning of this section are met again.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:18 PM   #298
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Did you guys know that by adding water/meth kits you get the same performance as 109+ octane fuel when tuned properly?

On 90 octane pump gas and with a 50/50 mix of water and methanol(-40 washer fluid works) you can produce the same amount of power as you can with 109 octane fuel and never have to spend the money on race gas or torco.

The general idea is a 50/50 mix of meth and water increase the effective octane rating by 25% . This has been proven time and time again by tuners that compare tunes made for fuels like vp109 on the exact same car running pump gas with water injection.

Check this out:

www.labontemotorsports.com/ontrack/WM101.pdf


Now ask yourself why your buying all that torco for min gains...
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Old 08-27-2010, 10:25 PM   #299
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im throwing code p2096, i only get it when im on the highway more then 5-10 minutes. any ideas?
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:15 PM   #300
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Boost leak
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