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Old 08-28-2010, 03:30 AM   #301
P3Auto
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That code is usually generated when the rear o2 sensor sees a condition that is to lean. If you have no cats and are using and aftermarket exhaust system this code MAY need to be ignored or removed from your tune. It cause also be from a faulty o2 sensor or you truely do have a lean condition.

The general rule of thumb is if you have a leak after the turbo you will run rich under boost and lean under vac or even cruising. If you have a leak pre-turbo this may show as just lean under various conditions.

If you can get someone with a tactrix cable to check it for you take a look at a "learningview.exe" screen. Take a look at the learned fuel trims and see if any of them are off by over 6%+-. Typically if you are lean enough to trip this code you will get other codes as well but not always.

Other possible issues include MAF sensor, coolant temp sensor, faulty wiring on rear o2 sensor, fuel pressure issue, exhaust leak. More diags need to be done really.

If you want bring the car by this weekend and I will hook you up to the diags computer for head start if you need it.
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #302
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I leave for the slope in the morning so it'll have to wait. I just think it's weird that it only happens when I'm cruising on the highway at 70ish
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:49 PM   #303
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hey i have a quick question. does the 2.0l wrx motor have a forged crankshaft? i want to do forged rods and pistons and racebearings for the motor before i swap and need to know if the motor has a forged crankshaft for the build i want to do. i want to accomplish close to 400 if not more later on it life but a mid to high 300 would be nice for swap. so i need to know if the crankshaft will be able to handle that power. this is my first time tackling this kinda work on a motor so i want to do it right the first time and learn everything. i have very knowledgeable friends that can help with swap and work but just need to know some info if you know. thanks
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:17 AM   #304
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The US EJ20 crank can handle 400+WHP just fine. The weak spots are the rods and then the pistons.

Keep in mind with race bearings, they can withstand more force before failure but they have a shorter life span. I would go with OEM main bearings and the best rod bearings you can get. EVERY bearing failure we have seen so far has been a rod bearing.

I would also consider a valve job to put in stronger strings and oversized stronger valves at least. Cams do wonders in these cars by the way as well.

Check out custom blend of a ej20 crank and sti rods. Neat projects with that combo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96imprezaL View Post
hey i have a quick question. does the 2.0l wrx motor have a forged crankshaft? i want to do forged rods and pistons and racebearings for the motor before i swap and need to know if the motor has a forged crankshaft for the build i want to do. i want to accomplish close to 400 if not more later on it life but a mid to high 300 would be nice for swap. so i need to know if the crankshaft will be able to handle that power. this is my first time tackling this kinda work on a motor so i want to do it right the first time and learn everything. i have very knowledgeable friends that can help with swap and work but just need to know some info if you know. thanks
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:10 PM   #305
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I have a quick question. What are your thoughts on an Air Oil Separator or Catch can, when should they be used, if they should be used and what is the preferred method? I have read a lot and found that many people use them but have you ever seen any data to substantiate that they actually work in keeping the charge clean of oil and other contaminates? I mean how much of a difference would one expect?
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:25 PM   #306
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A good catch can does wonders and the proof is in how much oil it catches. I had a car that would fill the can once a week.

The AOS (air oil separator) in theory is a cool device especially the one that sits on the oil fill cap. I have installed these but have yet to check internal pipes and intercoolers to see if a lot of oil it still getting by. I'm not absolutely sure how to prove these work yet. They are the best way to go if they do thanks to their low maintenance.
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:29 AM   #307
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whats your opinion on adding a perfomance edu chip to a 2011 impreza, just the base model?
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:38 PM   #308
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Could be a waste of money. They most likely remap the throttle response and make it a little more snappy. I am not familar with the prooduct however so I can only guess. Typical gains on NA Subarus running custom tunes tends to be fairly low without doing some physical modification to exhaust systems, cams, intake, etc.
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:36 PM   #309
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that seems to be the general response i am getting from most people here. good to find out tho before i waste my money
thank you
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Old 10-15-2010, 05:55 PM   #310
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The coolest calculator ever for many uses like turbo selection, injector sizing, HP output, etc!

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:03 AM   #311
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Old 10-24-2010, 11:13 PM   #312
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I have been in the process of getting tuned for a few weeks now. I am very lightly modded including 3" turboback, Samco inlet, Walbro 255, and an EJ257 in my 07 WRX. For some reason my car is not reacting to the should-be-simple "stage 2" tune like it should. I am getting FBKC on the logs, and my tuner(s) can't really tell me what's going on besides that my car is not acting right compared to the hundreds of other "stage 2" tunes they've made. On a side note, the current map revision is calling for 16psi of boost and I don't see past 13psi. I've been asked to ensure my stock boost lines are properly routed, make sure the restrictor is in place, do a boost leak test, etc. Everything checked out fine. I also swapped out my stock BCS for a different one and the problem persisted.

My IAM stays maxed out at 1, FLKC is zeroed out, A/F Learnings A-D are pretty spot on, but for some reason I'm seeing FBKC and the car is pulling timing. I only put 93 oct in my car. Have any ideas?
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:52 PM   #313
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When something like this comes up I always go back to the basics. If your not hitting your boost targets on a well known tune I would start with an actuall boost leak check. In other words you must build or buy a tool to pressurize the system with then engine off. I have found fairly nasty leaks in places you would not expect, for instance injector seals on the manifold, by pass valve leaks, etc.

So heres what happens if you have a leak. The turbo has to work many many times harder to make the same boost this in turn leads to much hotter intake air temps, this leads to timing and fueling issues.

You may also have a failing or damaged turbo. If you don't find leaks with a pressure test then pull and inspect the turbo, you may find the impeller is pitted or has rough edges on it. This sort of damage will lead to what you have as well.

I don't really want to get into detail here because you have a fundamental issue that needs to be resolved before you try to "tune it out". Here are some thoughts though..You say the IAM/DAM stays at 1 which means the knock is not severe enough to trigger a rough (global) timing pull. What exactly are the numbers your seeing in FBKC and at what RPM and load region are they occuring. I'm only interested but like I said you kinda have the cart in front of the horse here.

Go back to a close to stock tune and get the boost/turbo issues worked out. I think once you do that you will find your knock problems disapear!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThreeEleven View Post
I have been in the process of getting tuned for a few weeks now. I am very lightly modded including 3" turboback, Samco inlet, Walbro 255, and an EJ257 in my 07 WRX. For some reason my car is not reacting to the should-be-simple "stage 2" tune like it should. I am getting FBKC on the logs, and my tuner(s) can't really tell me what's going on besides that my car is not acting right compared to the hundreds of other "stage 2" tunes they've made. On a side note, the current map revision is calling for 16psi of boost and I don't see past 13psi. I've been asked to ensure my stock boost lines are properly routed, make sure the restrictor is in place, do a boost leak test, etc. Everything checked out fine. I also swapped out my stock BCS for a different one and the problem persisted.

My IAM stays maxed out at 1, FLKC is zeroed out, A/F Learnings A-D are pretty spot on, but for some reason I'm seeing FBKC and the car is pulling timing. I only put 93 oct in my car. Have any ideas?
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:23 PM   #314
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I've had a boost leak test done by a reputable Subaru mechanic that is local to me. No leaks were found. I watched him do it and I listened for leaks myself...found nothing. I have seen him find and fix vacuum leaks on other people cars so I'm pretty confident he didn't just miss something.

It's weird because I was getting tuned by one guy, and he had me peaking at 18psi and it was getting there without problem. All the while I was having issues with the knock, so I talked to a different more reputable tuner to look it over and send me some new maps. Knock came back and now on this last map I don't reach peak boost, so he's telling me somethings up.

I've seen up to ~-4 FBKC on the highway, not WOT at all. I was accelerating using my cruise control switch. I've seen up to ~-8 FBKC when WOT. Just to give you a little information on what's been going on.

Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:30 PM   #315
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Up-pipe leak or bad wastegate actuator?
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:27 PM   #316
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ThreeEleven,

One problem here is that your giving us mixed information. So we know you did a good boost leak check, we know you can hit 18psi on a previous tune but now your saying on another tune you can't get past 13psi.

Again without seeing some logs I cannot say if your FBKC is bad or not. You also mentioned part throttle or low load FBKC, this actually is not uncommon and may be normal. The fact your IAM/DAM stays at 1 tells me the ECU doesn't feel the knock is sever enough to make global timing reductions.

I personally tune for no more that the min FBKC for any given application. This varies from .47 degrees to 2 degrees. I also don't mind a little FBKC if it is only for a matter of a second or less and is not cosistent.

Here is what we need to start with. If you want to manage the boost issues first then I need to see a log with the following (names may be different if your using open source or cobb) Relative manifold pressure, primary waste gate duty cycle, and rpm. Then I need a screen shot of your max waste gate duty cycle table(s).

If you want to go after the FBKC I need the following log. RPM, FBKC, and Calculated Load. Another VERY useful screen shot would be one of learningview.exe after you have been driving the car for a day or two without an ECU reset. This will show me what the car has learned in terms of timing and fueling adjustments.

Do all the logs in 2nd gear (wrx) and 3rd gear (sti) from 3000rpm to redline. Do each log 3 times.

Now here is something you can take back to your tuner. FBKC can happen for many reasons. Too much fuel, too much timing, to lean, or even to little timing. If you noticing FBKC on shifts I can PM you the secret to fix that but I won't share that secret publically.

Just for kicks you may want to try slightly leaner fuel mix 11.4 perhaps (93 octane) see if your knock goes away. Or try adding a degree or two of timing in those areas(DO NOT DO BOTH FUEL AND TIMING). You might be surprised.

Tuners tend to stick to the rules of knock reduction which says take timing out and add fuel, like I said this can make things worse if you crossed a threshold. What ever you do keep the AFR's above 10.8 and below 11.8 for now at 18psi. (93 octane advice)

Lastly we may be looking at mechanical issues as noted by another user. One way to quickly rule out turbo on plumbing issues to to disconnect the plug the line to the waste gate actuator. Slowly apply throttle in 4th gear (be ready to lift quick if it overboosts!!!) if the boost hits your target then you know you have an issue in the tune, waste gate solenoid, electrical issue, etc. This test rules out a bad turbo, or turbo leaks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThreeEleven View Post
I've had a boost leak test done by a reputable Subaru mechanic that is local to me. No leaks were found. I watched him do it and I listened for leaks myself...found nothing. I have seen him find and fix vacuum leaks on other people cars so I'm pretty confident he didn't just miss something.

It's weird because I was getting tuned by one guy, and he had me peaking at 18psi and it was getting there without problem. All the while I was having issues with the knock, so I talked to a different more reputable tuner to look it over and send me some new maps. Knock came back and now on this last map I don't reach peak boost, so he's telling me somethings up.

I've seen up to ~-4 FBKC on the highway, not WOT at all. I was accelerating using my cruise control switch. I've seen up to ~-8 FBKC when WOT. Just to give you a little information on what's been going on.

Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:26 PM   #317
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Sorry if this question was already asked.

I'm buying supporting mods for another turbo.

I'm thinking of installing my bigger TMIC on my STi now.
Can I run it w/o getting another tune?

Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:32 PM   #318
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P3: EJ20G from a legacy RS. Factory air to water intercooler, grey top injectors, 440cc IIRC. After market intake / exhaust. It runs around 9 PSI right now, and runs rich. What boost would these injectors be safe at on a factory VF8 turbocharger? Any insight on making this car the next stage faster?
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:14 PM   #319
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Yes. The car should compensate for small boost changes and may allow for more timing. Reset the ECU after the change.

If there is a dramatic change in boost or drive ability then check for leaks after the install.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eckeryi View Post
Sorry if this question was already asked.

I'm buying supporting mods for another turbo.

I'm thinking of installing my bigger TMIC on my STi now.
Can I run it w/o getting another tune?

Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:20 PM   #320
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Well I could guess maybe 15PSI with those injectors and that displacement. No point in guessing though. You also asked what boost would be safe on the injectors. The question is also what boost is safe for that motor config. I suggest you do your homework on that. I don't know off the top of my head what that motor setup can do safely. I would have to go a research myself. Perhaps someone else here has some insight on that.

Go out and log injector duty cycle to redline. If it exceeds say 97% then you know your on the edge of needing bigger injectors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Above and Beyond View Post
P3: EJ20G from a legacy RS. Factory air to water intercooler, grey top injectors, 440cc IIRC. After market intake / exhaust. It runs around 9 PSI right now, and runs rich. What boost would these injectors be safe at on a factory VF8 turbocharger? Any insight on making this car the next stage faster?
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:25 PM   #321
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Thanks for the reply!
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:33 PM   #322
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Thank you P3 Auto, i really appreciate it. I think a AVC-R is next on the list. I already have a LM-1 wideband. I would rather take it cautious and run 10 pounds healthily, then blow her up.
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:54 AM   #323
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As for different boost levels, it's on two different maps from two seperate tuners looking for two different peak boosts. I have logs and a learning view shot, just not on this computer. Will post sometime tomorrow hopefully. Thanks a lot!
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:56 PM   #324
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Default High Pitch Sound...HELP!

So I suddenly lost boost and power driving home the other day. I limped the car home and looked under the hood. My Gimmick Y pipe from my tmic had slipped off in connection to the engine and one of the small hoses from my turbo melted... SO I switched Y pipes, back to the stock vs the Gimmick and replaced the small hose.

I went for a drive to see if all was well and soon as I am either in sustained vacuum or go into any boost at all, there is this super high pitched sound coming from what seems to be directly in front of the steering wheel or at my BOV. At idle or reving while not moving there is no sound in cab, and only a slight whine at the BOV. However, put any kind of load on it and it begins to whine crazy loud. The only way I can describe the sound is like a disposable camera flash charging up kind of sound. What is this and how do I make it stop?!

Also, prior to all of this I had no issues, However, now despite the sound, if I go anywhere close to 10 psi boost my car starts to shutter almost as if it were tripping a governor...???

Am I leaking boost? Y pipe leak? Where should I check first? Is my turbo going out? Is my BOV broken? Not sure where to start or how to check if something is wrong.

Also, I'm looking to get a tune done, who is a good contact here in Anchorage? Thanks for your help

Last edited by plkelly; 11-21-2010 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:37 PM   #325
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Default VF39 Cracked?

I've got an 04 WRX with a VF39 and it's smoking at idle occasionally. My CEL used to come on then go off but now it's on constantly. There is also a nice coating of sludge around the outlet of the compressor housing. I assume that this turbo is on it's last leg with a bad oil seal and/or cracked housing?

I was thinking about going with either an Blouch 18g XT or Blouch TD05H-20g. From what I've read there's no real advantage of going with the traditional 18g over a TD05H-20g. Does the XT change that?
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