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Old 11-22-2010, 02:49 PM   #326
Alaskan EJ20
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yeah the XT wheels are light and push a little more air in each series.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:01 PM   #327
Wagowned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post
yeah the XT wheels are light and push a little more air in each series.
Sure they are but the question remains... For my Ej20 will the 18g XT out perform (spool as well as top end power) the traditional TD05H-20g? The way I understand it, the 20g XT only comes in the TD06H which is too big for the 2.0. I've searched but have been unable to come up with many results for this 18g XT.
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:39 AM   #328
V!nny
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Default Drop in IAM

Hi Guys,

Please help whiledring to work this morning my IAM dropped frm 16 to 12 to 8 and now its at 2 .Not sure whats going on please help
A8DH200O - MY06 WRX MT Stock
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:44 AM   #329
Kiwi Fella
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Motor is not happy and your link is broken
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:35 AM   #330
V!nny
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Not sure y the link is not working ,My car is still driveable
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:58 PM   #331
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Sorry for the late response plkelly. Its really fairly difficult to figure out what happened. When hoses melt that is usually a symptom from another problem.

A good start would be a complete boost leak check.

When turbos start to fail then can do a lot of different things depending on the point of failure. Things like smoke, squealing, grinding, lack of spool or slow to spool, they can sound like a dentist drill, etc.

Feel free to call my shop at 355-6655 and we can check it out for you or continue to help point you in the right direction, we also do tune these cars all the time and can provide references.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plkelly View Post
So I suddenly lost boost and power driving home the other day. I limped the car home and looked under the hood. My Gimmick Y pipe from my tmic had slipped off in connection to the engine and one of the small hoses from my turbo melted... SO I switched Y pipes, back to the stock vs the Gimmick and replaced the small hose.

I went for a drive to see if all was well and soon as I am either in sustained vacuum or go into any boost at all, there is this super high pitched sound coming from what seems to be directly in front of the steering wheel or at my BOV. At idle or reving while not moving there is no sound in cab, and only a slight whine at the BOV. However, put any kind of load on it and it begins to whine crazy loud. The only way I can describe the sound is like a disposable camera flash charging up kind of sound. What is this and how do I make it stop?!

Also, prior to all of this I had no issues, However, now despite the sound, if I go anywhere close to 10 psi boost my car starts to shutter almost as if it were tripping a governor...???

Am I leaking boost? Y pipe leak? Where should I check first? Is my turbo going out? Is my BOV broken? Not sure where to start or how to check if something is wrong.

Also, I'm looking to get a tune done, who is a good contact here in Anchorage? Thanks for your help
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:00 PM   #332
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If you asked Blouch the response would be "the new 18gxt performs like the old 20g".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagowned View Post
Sure they are but the question remains... For my Ej20 will the 18g XT out perform (spool as well as top end power) the traditional TD05H-20g? The way I understand it, the 20g XT only comes in the TD06H which is too big for the 2.0. I've searched but have been unable to come up with many results for this 18g XT.
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:01 PM   #333
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Boost leak check the system. This is the most common cause. Check the hose between the throttle body and the intercooler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by V!nny View Post
Not sure y the link is not working ,My car is still driveable
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:17 PM   #334
Bakerbrdz
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1.21 gigawatts?
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06 WRX, 75XXX, STOCK CLUTCH AND TRANNY

mods -
CSS front mount
255 fuel pump
VF22 TURBO
UTEC - TUNED TO 20 PSI
PERRIN V2 SHORT RAM INTAKE
PERRIN INLET HOSE
TURBO BACK EXHAUST - NO CATS
HKS UPPIPE
STOCK HEADERS

QUESTION-
I have hesitation between 2-3k when the ecu switches over to the utec. Doesn’t do it all the time and it happens at 0-5 psi. WOT is fine. I think it might happen more when its colder outside. Car smells like fuel I believe, when I stop at a light, not when im driving. Any ideas?
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:55 PM   #335
P3Auto
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No idea, you need to log the car to see whats going on. There are many possible causes for this including a bad tune.

Log for feed back knock correction and air fuel ratio during this 2k-3k transition. Also send me a screen shot from learningview.exe if you can using a tactrix cable.

Also consider that these motors don't like to be bogged. You may just want to keep the rpms a little higher when boosting. The more you mod the car the harder it becomes to maintain perfect drive ability under all conditions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakerbrdz View Post
06 WRX, 75XXX, STOCK CLUTCH AND TRANNY

mods -
CSS front mount
255 fuel pump
VF22 TURBO
UTEC - TUNED TO 20 PSI
PERRIN V2 SHORT RAM INTAKE
PERRIN INLET HOSE
TURBO BACK EXHAUST - NO CATS
HKS UPPIPE
STOCK HEADERS

QUESTION-
I have hesitation between 2-3k when the ecu switches over to the utec. Doesn’t do it all the time and it happens at 0-5 psi. WOT is fine. I think it might happen more when its colder outside. Car smells like fuel I believe, when I stop at a light, not when im driving. Any ideas?
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:26 AM   #336
brickak14
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Looking for someone to talk to about AccessPort maps for my 2011 STI... Im wanting a map with Launch Control if I can... Or at least someone to talk to about it...
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:39 PM   #337
P3Auto
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I can help you if your in Alaska. 99% of the cobb maps have LC and FFS. I can also custom tune the cobb maps.

Seth
907-355-6655 call or text.
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Old 12-24-2010, 08:39 PM   #338
InsatiableAmos
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Here's an unusual question: Can i swap up to a VF43 or VF48 on an otherwise completely stock 2004 STi without getting a tune? My VF39's dying, and i'd rather not hit the dyno or continue buying flawed VF39s...
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:08 AM   #339
newtothescene
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Is it safer to run more boost and less timing for the same power? I was always under the impression that it is "safer" to have a bigger turbo at lower psi with less timing than a smaller turbo at higher psi and more timing for the same power goal. I will be incorporating an MBC and EBCS in the system and no EWG. As for my turbo upgrade what is the best route for around 280 whp? I would like to keep the tourque under 300ft/lbs to save the tranny (2006 WRX) but I still want a good curve with a rip at redline. I am thinking of a larger turbo like a 20g8cm and run it around 15psi. Is this better? or a smaller turbo with a higher psi as mentioned? The rest of my mods will be the usual (FP, TMIC, full CB). Thanks for puttin in the time to answer.
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Old 12-31-2010, 01:15 AM   #340
retrac
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996 Porsche 911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsatiableAmos View Post
Here's an unusual question: Can i swap up to a VF43 or VF48 on an otherwise completely stock 2004 STi without getting a tune? My VF39's dying, and i'd rather not hit the dyno or continue buying flawed VF39s...
Close enough, so yes, it'll be fine.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:30 PM   #341
retrac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtothescene View Post
Is it safer to run more boost and less timing for the same power? I was always under the impression that it is "safer" to have a bigger turbo at lower psi with less timing than a smaller turbo at higher psi and more timing for the same power goal. I will be incorporating an MBC and EBCS in the system and no EWG. As for my turbo upgrade what is the best route for around 280 whp? I would like to keep the tourque under 300ft/lbs to save the tranny (2006 WRX) but I still want a good curve with a rip at redline. I am thinking of a larger turbo like a 20g8cm and run it around 15psi. Is this better? or a smaller turbo with a higher psi as mentioned? The rest of my mods will be the usual (FP, TMIC, full CB). Thanks for puttin in the time to answer.
IMO that's not the factor to pay attention to... Be more concerned with running the turbocharger that will be most efficient in the power range that you're looking for.

Regarding boost versus timing... That's two different schools of thought that produce similar results.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:39 PM   #342
P3Auto
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The answers really depend on your environment and your preference for power curves. Also we are depending on fueling(octane) and other mods like larger inter-coolers and water injection. There is a point that more advance in timing doesn't do much in terms of gains.

A larger turbo simply flows more air at less PSI then a smaller one might. There is a combination effect since the exhaust also can flow more with a bigger wheel on the hot side. This means the turbo is working less and also producing a (typically) cooler charge. A cooler charge means more timing may be possible and of course the denser air makes more power. There is a price to pay for larger turbines and that is usually lag. The lag however is met with some reward as you will maintain good boost longer towards red-line and will have a longer power curve.

Since your car is a 2.0l and your power goals are conservative I think you might find some joy in a very mild turbo upgrade even an STI turbo on that motor could get you close. At 18g(or similar) would be a good fit as well. The 20g on you motor will be quite laggy and in my opinion over kill for your requested power levels.

I noticed you mentioned using a MBC...Please avoid doing this. The cars EBC system is very good and does not need to be changed for what your trying to do. You just need a simple tune. If you "defeat" the cars ability to control or limit boost you are removing a very good safety system from the car that could cost you a motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by newtothescene View Post
Is it safer to run more boost and less timing for the same power? I was always under the impression that it is "safer" to have a bigger turbo at lower psi with less timing than a smaller turbo at higher psi and more timing for the same power goal. I will be incorporating an MBC and EBCS in the system and no EWG. As for my turbo upgrade what is the best route for around 280 whp? I would like to keep the tourque under 300ft/lbs to save the tranny (2006 WRX) but I still want a good curve with a rip at redline. I am thinking of a larger turbo like a 20g8cm and run it around 15psi. Is this better? or a smaller turbo with a higher psi as mentioned? The rest of my mods will be the usual (FP, TMIC, full CB). Thanks for puttin in the time to answer.
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:29 PM   #343
NSFW
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He said he was going to use both an EBCS and an MBC. If you plumb them in parallel, boost is controlled by whichever one opens first, which means the ECU can still limit boost when IAM drops. The MBC basically provides over-boost protection and a knob to limit boost for special circumstances (valet parking, testing, whatever).
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Old 01-03-2011, 01:09 AM   #344
retrac
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I like the parallel MBC/EBCS system. I'm going to do it when I get everything else sorted out, until then my Hallman serves quite well.
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Old 01-03-2011, 01:29 PM   #345
P3Auto
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What ever works for you guys.

We have never had a need to use an MBC on a Subaru. Again with the exception of upgrading the stock solenoid the stock boost control is quite advanced and works well.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:05 PM   #346
NSFW
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The stock system doesn't give you a big fat knob to twist if you want to run a different boost level. That's the one thing that MBCs have going for them.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:59 PM   #347
P3Auto
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If I ever decided to tune a customers car with one of these "big knobs" I would make sure they sign a big waiver...

By design the boost control on WRX/STI is a bleed type system. If you have an MBC in parallel to dial the boost up the stock solenoid would still have some issue pulling the boost back all the way. The MBC would simply be popping open and bleeding off pressure keeping it away from the waste gate actuator (WGA) and defeating the stock BC. In this configuration alot of the control and safety has been removed from the ECU. I suppose with the proper adjustment and restriction inline to the MBC this could work a little but it still rings out "hack job" to me. I also have found MBC to be inconsistent and have to be re-adjusted for hot or cold days or other temp conditions.

I also have to wonder what kind of havoc one of these MBCs creates on the ECU also trying to adjust boost to hit the target tuned PSI. The WRXs and STIs "sort of" learn boost trims over time. They also have a range set that allows for the ECU to trim up or down the solenoids duty cycle. The MBC will be a balance act between what the stock BC calls for and what your goal PSI would be. Sounds sloppy...

Over shooting the target with an MBC could lead to eventual CEL and reduced solenoid duty learned. Under shooting the target could lead to the ECU adding to the boost solenoids duty cycle to try and make up for the miss. Hmm this could also lead to a CEL. Both conditions could eventually lead to a CEL since the tune decides how far off the target boost can be from actual boost before it gets upset..Lets not forget fuel cuts related to boost limits as well.

I suppose you just delete the CELs that could be generated like you would if you went with a standalone EBC or MBC. Fix the limits etc.

I guess it just comes down to preference and budget. I still strongly feel MBC is old school, not safe, and not cosistent. I'm not saying its wrong or can't be used, I'm just not going to push the idea to people that own modern day Subarus and Mitsus.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
The stock system doesn't give you a big fat knob to twist if you want to run a different boost level. That's the one thing that MBCs have going for them.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:15 PM   #348
newtothescene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
The answers really depend on your environment and your preference for power curves. Also we are depending on fueling(octane) and other mods like larger inter-coolers and water injection. There is a point that more advance in timing doesn't do much in terms of gains.

A larger turbo simply flows more air at less PSI then a smaller one might. There is a combination effect since the exhaust also can flow more with a bigger wheel on the hot side. This means the turbo is working less and also producing a (typically) cooler charge. A cooler charge means more timing may be possible and of course the denser air makes more power. There is a price to pay for larger turbines and that is usually lag. The lag however is met with some reward as you will maintain good boost longer towards red-line and will have a longer power curve.

Since your car is a 2.0l and your power goals are conservative I think you might find some joy in a very mild turbo upgrade even an STI turbo on that motor could get you close. At 18g(or similar) would be a good fit as well. The 20g on you motor will be quite laggy and in my opinion over kill for your requested power levels.

I noticed you mentioned using a MBC...Please avoid doing this. The cars EBC system is very good and does not need to be changed for what your trying to do. You just need a simple tune. If you "defeat" the cars ability to control or limit boost you are removing a very good safety system from the car that could cost you a motor.
Ok this is what I was looking for!!
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:16 PM   #349
NSFW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
By design the boost control on WRX/STI is a bleed type system. If you have an MBC in parallel to dial the boost up the stock solenoid would still have some issue pulling the boost back all the way.
When people combine an MBC with a BCS, they typically do it with an aftermarket solenoid, so that both the MBC and BCS are acting as interrupt controllers rather than bleed controllers. That way, whichever one opens first will let pressure through to the wastegate actuator and reduce boost. So, the MBC will only ever reduce boost below what the BCS would provide on its own.
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Old 01-04-2011, 02:02 PM   #350
P3Auto
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I see now, that makes more sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
When people combine an MBC with a BCS, they typically do it with an aftermarket solenoid, so that both the MBC and BCS are acting as interrupt controllers rather than bleed controllers. That way, whichever one opens first will let pressure through to the wastegate actuator and reduce boost. So, the MBC will only ever reduce boost below what the BCS would provide on its own.
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