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Old 04-05-2011, 01:15 PM   #401
P3Auto
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Yes there is to much negative feed back. 4+ degrees is alot. I'm sure you can feel hesitation. You may even hear the knock if your car is quiet enough. It would be nice to see where the fuel is at but you would need a wideband to see that. The AFR on the logs is good for closed loop readings only. Once you step on the throttle hard your in open loop and the AFR from the stock front wideband is useless.

I find that COBB tunes tend to be rich. Sometimes they are so rich that they actually cause knock. Leaning them out has fixed issues and increased power quite a bit.

To better help you I would need to see a better log. The problem is you are logging to much and the resolution is quite low. Please log RPM, Calc load, feed back knock correction. Log a 3rd gear pull from 2800rpm to redline and send that to us. Do a 4th gear run the same IF you have a safe place for it.

Timing can be pulled like this for many reasons. If this is a new problem I would suggest to check for boost leaks. Check carefully on the TMIC hoses inlet and outlet. It is very common for the hoses to leak there.

Also if you have a boost gauge watch for spikes, I don't see any in your log but again the resolution is very low. Even a quick spike to 20+ then back down to the target will cause a knock event to get rolling.

Another item to check is plugs. Old plugs or wide gaps can lead to problems with spark blow out or poor flame fronts. When running higher boost the stock plug gaps are not always good enough. Try a tighter gap like .026-.030 especially on platinum or iridium plugs.

Knock is a problem once it starts. It can take 1 degree less timing to prevent it but it can take 4+ degrees less to stop it once it starts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by newtothescene View Post
Pleassssse help me with my log. Just did a log - do you see any issues? I see there is some neg feedback knock correction.

Car: 2006 WRX, Cobb catted DP, STI catback. All other parts are stock.

Cheers and thanks!!

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Old 04-05-2011, 06:20 PM   #402
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Thanks! There is a calculated load in my log - see column F. RPM is there too and it is a WOT log to redline. I'l email you the excel sheet.

Thanks
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:23 PM   #403
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If you want help you have to read what I asked for again. You log has to many variables the resolution is very low.

Quote:
Originally Posted by newtothescene View Post
Thanks! There is a calculated load in my log - see column F. RPM is there too and it is a WOT log to redline. I'l email you the excel sheet.

Thanks
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:36 PM   #404
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Ok will send you some more logs. Here's another question which relates to what you think may be my problem. Plugs. My car has 45K miles on it and the plugs, being OEM, are probably tired and most likely have a bigger gap now. So its safe to say that my issue is most likely the combination of alot more boost with less than optimally gapped spark plugs. My car does not burn any oil or coolant and is mechanically sound (although I have not got a leak down test done).

Anyhow, I will get new plugs in a couple of weeks but what about temp? There always seems to be mass confusion on whether to use colder plugs, or not. What I know is a colder plug will reduce the chance of detonation but will foul quicker, which means replacing them much more often. I also understand that a good romp every once in a while should "clean" the plugs but this is not always a guarantee. A very reputable tuner by me asked that they install one step colder iridiums gapped at 0.26 prior to their tune. They also asked to have them do a leak down test. I do understand the leak down test as they want to make sure the car is mechanically sound. Is the request for the new plugs because of the way they tune? What would you suggest for me, being a simple stage 2 running to almost 20 psi. Is a 0.26 gap on regular temp plugs suffice? I would think so. What do you think? (I checked my IC hoses and everything is tight).

Thanks for all your help! Very knowledgeable.
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:13 PM   #405
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Read this it will explain spark plugs and heat ranges: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...lugs/index.asp

Colder plugs can help prevent knock in these cars a very small amount. The tighter gap is required for higher boost applications to preven spark blow out. Unless your going to beef up your coils the smaller gap is what you need to maintain a good strong spark.

45k on original plugs could be your problem or part of it. Keep it simple then work your way along the path one step at a time. 9 times out of 10 the problem is something very simple.

The leak down test mentioned is a good idea, the work required to do the test when your changing the plugs is about the same. If your already doing the plugs a quick compression or leak down is not a bad plan. The results might make you have a bad day though...lol..Plenty of these cars go thousands of miles with a bad piston and the owners never can tell.


Quote:
Originally Posted by newtothescene View Post
Ok will send you some more logs. Here's another question which relates to what you think may be my problem. Plugs. My car has 45K miles on it and the plugs, being OEM, are probably tired and most likely have a bigger gap now. So its safe to say that my issue is most likely the combination of alot more boost with less than optimally gapped spark plugs. My car does not burn any oil or coolant and is mechanically sound (although I have not got a leak down test done).

Anyhow, I will get new plugs in a couple of weeks but what about temp? There always seems to be mass confusion on whether to use colder plugs, or not. What I know is a colder plug will reduce the chance of detonation but will foul quicker, which means replacing them much more often. I also understand that a good romp every once in a while should "clean" the plugs but this is not always a guarantee. A very reputable tuner by me asked that they install one step colder iridiums gapped at 0.26 prior to their tune. They also asked to have them do a leak down test. I do understand the leak down test as they want to make sure the car is mechanically sound. Is the request for the new plugs because of the way they tune? What would you suggest for me, being a simple stage 2 running to almost 20 psi. Is a 0.26 gap on regular temp plugs suffice? I would think so. What do you think? (I checked my IC hoses and everything is tight).

Thanks for all your help! Very knowledgeable.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:42 PM   #406
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My 07 WRX just started throwing the P2442 CEL code.
Looked it up and it said, "Secondary Air injection system, switching valve stuck open, bank 2"
Is this a bad thing? .. What's involved to remedy this?
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:17 PM   #407
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This has to do typically with the air pump system they added to these cars in the later years like yours. The air pump is located on the drivers side in front of the brake booster. The code can come from a number of problems. The issue is directly related to emmisions.

If your using the car for off road use only I would be happy to clear the code forever. The other option is to diagnose the problem which would require you brining the car to us for a look.
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:15 AM   #408
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Default I Need a Baja Tune Map. Help!

I've got an '06 Baja with an A/T. I just put an 18g turbo on it, with a SPT shorty intake and a Random Technology 3" Turbo back exhaust. I also have a wide band air/fuel sensor/gauge installed. Everything else is stock. I have a well recommended open source tuner working on it, but he has no experience working with Bajas. The "STI tune" that he put in it causes problems. It surges, pings and is gutless. It runs fine at cruise RPMs. I'm sure it's a timing problem, but I've got so much money into it now, that I need it running right.
I don't mean to be a prick, but I don't need opinions on why it runs crappy, I need it fixed
Does anyone out there have a proven Baja map?
Thanks guys.
Dave
P.S. there are no aftermarket access ports (that I know of) available for it, so any tuning needs to be done by open source. I've been told that the 18g can handle 350 HP at the wheels, so that's what I am shooting for (or more). I can supply more detailed info if needed.

Edit:
I wrote the original thread about 10 mins after a "detonation event" that occurred at WOT, 5000 RPM, and ~20 psi of boost..... I crapped myself, and I apologize for being a turd, but I was upset. I have about $4500 into it now and all i can say is that exhaust sounds better.
Here are the details: It seems to run good, maybe even correctly up to about 1/4 throttle and 3000 rpm. The problems come at 1/2 to wide open throttle (WOT). I get some predetonation "ping" starting at 3500 rpm and up. The higher the rpm, the worse the ping. The higher the load, the worse the ping. After it pings (after i let out of it and change my boxers), it loses power. One time (after it pinged), at about 3500 rpm, I put it to 3/4 throttle, and the boost went to ~20 psi (which is about my target right now), the wide-band read 11.3 A/F or so, but it didn't accelerate; it just bogged down. I hesitate to test it more to get a better feel for the problem as I may very well be picking up pieces of my engine off the pavement next time.
Sounds like ignition timing right? To me, it seems like everything is cool until I floor it, then it pings and the ECU ganks the timing back too far (Am I wrong?). Thing is, my tuner (again, he came highly recommended but has never worked on a Baja. He tuned his 11 sec 2.5 RS/STI though) loaded a proven STI map into it, and now it does this. Could the Baja interpret the STI data differently? The only thing I can think of is the intercooler is about 1/3 smaller than the STIs. But I can't imagine that a few degrees difference in the intake air temp would affect it this much. I live in Fairbanks AK, so I'm about 3000 miles from.... anything. Last I checked, Cobb doesn't make an access port for the Baja, but i'll call and pick their brains maybe. Thanks for any insight.
Dave
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:57 PM   #409
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Dave,
Bring us down the car if you want it to be tuned. The problems you describe can be from many different sources. The knock events that your having are very dangerous and if bad enough can cause damage even the first time it happens. If you want to protect your investment I suggest you do not drive the car hard until you get the issues resolved.

I could attempt to resolve the issue with you but we would need logs and you will also need to check a number of points on the motor first.

Logs if you want to send some would start with a 2nd or 3rd gear run that has, calc load, rpm, FBKC. Also check your IAM / DAM and let me know what it was during the run. Note: Start with lower boost like 15psi or less and work your way up.

With these motors too much fuel and and to little timing can be just as bad and cause knock as well.

Also email us your tune if you want it reviewed.
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:35 PM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyletakahero
My 07 WRX just started throwing the P2442 CEL code.
Looked it up and it said, "Secondary Air injection system, switching valve stuck open, bank 2"
Is this a bad thing? .. What's involved to remedy this?
Air pump delete party!
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:37 PM   #411
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Should my gear fluid (tranny) have tiny bubbles in it?
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:37 PM   #412
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Nevermind hearing bad noises.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:22 AM   #413
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USDM 2011 WRXs have (at least) two different roms from the factory, CALID AE5I910L on cars with build dates in 2010, CALID AE5IA10L on cars built in 2011 (exact changeover date uncertain). The first rom has experimental definitions posted at Romraider, opens in both Ecuflash and RomRaider. The second has not yet been defined. There is a Subaru TSB that says the reason for the change is emissions related and seems to imply that there are no hardware changes between the two.

I have one of each. The more recent revision does not drive well -- it has nasty OL delays that really must be addressed. Both need DBW changes. I hate the "launch or bog" initial throttle sensitivity.

It has been suggested that I flash AE5I910L over AE5IA10L, then tune as desired. I have a "stub" (no tables) ecuflash def only for the newer rom that *should* allow me to reflash the new rom in the event the earlier one does not work for some reason.

Anyhow, this all looks reasonable to me, but I hate to be the guinea pig. Looking for a sanity check, please.

Relevant romraider thread here http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7146
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:08 PM   #414
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The information here is a little light. I would not attempt it myself without seriously looking at the code to see what exactly has changed.

From a logical view it would not make sense for Subaru to make hardware changes midway thru production but its possible. I think the theory on just some quick changes to the tune is probably correct.

On a side note I think if you did force a flash back to the earlier rom that it would most likely work and if it didn't you probably would not have any issues flashing it back to the original. As others had mentioned you need to do a proper reset of the ECU to clear the RAM. These newer ECUs do not reset after a flash any more like the older ones did.

Sorry I have no better information right now. There is a ticket open for defs to be made on your rom. Give it a few months and they will appear I am sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxplanck View Post
USDM 2011 WRXs have (at least) two different roms from the factory, CALID AE5I910L on cars with build dates in 2010, CALID AE5IA10L on cars built in 2011 (exact changeover date uncertain). The first rom has experimental definitions posted at Romraider, opens in both Ecuflash and RomRaider. The second has not yet been defined. There is a Subaru TSB that says the reason for the change is emissions related and seems to imply that there are no hardware changes between the two.

I have one of each. The more recent revision does not drive well -- it has nasty OL delays that really must be addressed. Both need DBW changes. I hate the "launch or bog" initial throttle sensitivity.

It has been suggested that I flash AE5I910L over AE5IA10L, then tune as desired. I have a "stub" (no tables) ecuflash def only for the newer rom that *should* allow me to reflash the new rom in the event the earlier one does not work for some reason.

Anyhow, this all looks reasonable to me, but I hate to be the guinea pig. Looking for a sanity check, please.

Relevant romraider thread here http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7146
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:57 PM   #415
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Seth,

I just have to state you are a man among men when it comes to devotion, attitude, knowledge, and willingness to help others with their problems(even if it's on a sunday evening, with my engine smoking in Delta Junction, surronded by screaming kids at a B-Day party). You been extremely helpful with random issues that come up whether via the forums, in person, via text, or on the phone. Thanks alot!!! Hope we do more crazy crap to my car!(like that hybrid we've talked about). Oh, btw, that 15w40, I dont think it fixed the underlying issue, but put one helluva bandaide on it to give more time(no more smoke for now). Thanks again!

Rich
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:18 PM   #416
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Who can I see (Anchorage or the valley) for a tune and some help taking my 08 a little further? I'm at stage II + TMIC with a Perrin map right now. I'm thinking about water/meth next, and more in the near future. Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:52 PM   #417
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looking at getting an OS tune from a guy somewhat local to me. He said most of his stage 2 tunes run about 20psi, last one he just did was peaking at 21.5.... normal? I am just looking for the safest and most reliable tune for my 04, as i drive it everyday.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:22 AM   #418
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how much is the max timing retard on the 06 wrx's with either opensource or accessport basically id want to setup something like this


now, thats for an evo but it results in this
and its quite effective. he said he just retarted the timing there, and richened it up a bit there and that was the result and he can change it to where ever (higher or lower rpm, amount of pops etc) all with that. is this possible on a WRX ECU? he thought it wouldnt be possible.


then i wanted to see if a rotational idle via cracked throttle, and (how i THINK ive been reading it works) retarted timing to prevent the rpms from going up uncontrollably. like this
i know thats on a EMS but thats the same kinda sound i wanted from my idle. is this possible with open source? i hear it is i just wanted to know.

or would it be possible to tune in a rough/cammed sounding idle via AVCS and these things? i understand all this would be dumb to do i just wanted to know if it was possible because i am weird like that.
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:57 AM   #419
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I haven't tried it but I suspect that the ignition-retard backfire-on-decel trick would just as well with a Subaru. (Or just as poorly, depending on your feelings about explosions and fire...) The only way to know for sure would be to try it.

The blippy idle sounds like it's using fuel-cut to keep the revs down. Might be possible with the LC/FFS hacks that are out there now, just set to 1200/1300 RPM instead the usual 4000ish. EDIT: and raise the target idle speed to 1250 or so.

Last edited by NSFW; 05-19-2011 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:27 AM   #420
WhatTurboLag?
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well i know on rally cars it is achieved through cracking the throttle open and doing something crazy with the timing to keep the rpm's down. but yeah...


if i knew how to tune id try the first thing but since i dont i wont and dont feel like asking some tuner to tune my car "wrong" lol
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:54 AM   #421
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Well... I seem to remember there being a global timing retard limit, and we also can't defeat fuel cut on decel with RR yet either. Find those tables and it can be done, I imagine.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:59 PM   #422
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I was thinking the driver just held the throttle open a little bit for the backfires. Defeating fuel cut would make that a lot easier, for sure.
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:11 PM   #423
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Not going to touch this one on the flames. lol..Try it and let us know. Open source or cobb should (in theory) allow the same.

I have a hack that allows severe retarded timing at low rpms and low load. You can crack the throttle a bit with DBW systems. The issues start to kick in though...Excessive EGT, off throttle is a balance between pushing and engine braking. Without a standalone ECU I personally have had poor results. Its fun to see the headers glowing though and constant boost.
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Old 05-28-2011, 04:26 AM   #424
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o0o0o0o so much to learrrnnnn
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:23 AM   #425
kayetealynn
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So.. Fuel trims on the RS are out of wack. Long term fuel trim is always negative - hovering somewhere between -7% and going all the way to -16%... It -never- goes into the positive.. What's normal? What should I be seeing? I'm leaning towards replacing the front sensor... And yes - the plugs/wires/coil were replaced (about 2,000 miles ago) and no misfires since then..
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