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Old 06-07-2011, 06:13 AM   #426
TonyWRXSTI
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Default Wtb Ej25

Helping a friend here on JBER Anchorage look for a new engine block. If anyone knows someone who has a spare EJ25 that needs to be built or is built please hit me up.I has bad luck with craigslist hate no contact numbers.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:50 AM   #427
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here's a question. I have an 07 wrx, basic stage 2 stuff, intake, tmic, turbo back, plugs, tune...anyhoo, my car loves to knock in the mid-rpm range, typically 2500 - 3500 rpm.

I was cruising at 65 in 5th gear this morning and every time I tried to accel a little, my feedback knock would drop to -7+ right around 2500 at light throttle. when I had to stop, I accelerated again and everything was ok but it still knocks more in than rpm range than in any other. Ideas?
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:43 PM   #428
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Normal for most applications is 8% negative or positive. The car is able to trim typically up to 20% long term and 20% short term meaning it could tune a max of 40% although this would indicate a major issue.

The good news is the negative trim indicates your getting to much fuel to hit the 14.7:1 AFR target during idle and cruise. So this means you probably don't have a fuel pressure issue, vac leak, etc. Being rich a little is better than being lean in most cases.

1. The O2 Sensor could be going bad, the only way to know for sure would be to measure with a separate wideband O2 sensor and compare the numbers in real time. Your spot on with this thought though because the trims are computed based on what the front O2 sensor is reporting.

2. The MAF sensor could be dirty or starting to fail.

3. If you made any changes to your intake, even stock fitment changes then this could cause what your seeing.

4. If you still have a cat it could be getting blocked.

I would say as long as things are running ok and your not getting any knock I would not stress about these trims. Can you give more details on what load regions the trims are happening in?


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Originally Posted by kayetealynn View Post
So.. Fuel trims on the RS are out of wack. Long term fuel trim is always negative - hovering somewhere between -7% and going all the way to -16%... It -never- goes into the positive.. What's normal? What should I be seeing? I'm leaning towards replacing the front sensor... And yes - the plugs/wires/coil were replaced (about 2,000 miles ago) and no misfires since then..
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:53 PM   #429
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This is quite common with these cars and setups like yours. To properly help we would need quite a bit more data including logs.

1. Before you get crazy trying to fix it check the basics, air filter clean, MAF clean, all hoses are secure and there are no boost leaks, check fueling with a wideband if possible. Plug gaps ok? .028-.030 for higher boost.

2. What is yout IAM or DAM at?

3. You mentioned light load knock with light accel around 2500, a lot of tuners don't spend much time looking at part throttle and low load regions. Some tunes come on to hot with boost early to hit targets in lower gears, by the time you are in upper gears the high boost is coming in so early that your fuel and timing can be out of whack since it was left as stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RexMatt87 View Post
here's a question. I have an 07 wrx, basic stage 2 stuff, intake, tmic, turbo back, plugs, tune...anyhoo, my car loves to knock in the mid-rpm range, typically 2500 - 3500 rpm.

I was cruising at 65 in 5th gear this morning and every time I tried to accel a little, my feedback knock would drop to -7+ right around 2500 at light throttle. when I had to stop, I accelerated again and everything was ok but it still knocks more in than rpm range than in any other. Ideas?
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Old 06-07-2011, 04:36 PM   #430
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Its pulling the most fuel at idle..cruise is around -7%.. AFRs according to the ecm are 12-13 at idle..

I thought 2001s don't have a maf? Just a map sensor?

The rear 02 is almost always reading slightly high - which would indicate the cat right? Why can a failing cat cause the car to run rich?
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:50 PM   #431
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Ok. Sorry on the MAF deal...Disregard...

The -7% at cruise is ok. I wouldn't worry to much about the idle really. The rear O2 sensor is a narrow band sensor and the readings after the cat should show slightly leaner once the cat is up to temp. The rear O2 sensor readings are not worth looking at in this case however because the sensor is only accurate in a very 'narrow' range close to 14.7:1 afr.

On a MAP based tune exhaust back pressure can some times lead to a richer condition.

If your car was back firing, running poorly, buring oil, coolant, etc in the past and you have high milage I would say your cat(s) is most likely in bad shape. A back pressure test or exhaust gas temp check would help here.

Again I wouldn't worry about what your seeing unless you feel or demonstrate that the trims are causing unwanted effects. To really get to the bottom of the problem a full diag would need to be done on the entire system. At the very least a little logging and driving with a wideband hooked up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kayetealynn View Post
Its pulling the most fuel at idle..cruise is around -7%.. AFRs according to the ecm are 12-13 at idle..

I thought 2001s don't have a maf? Just a map sensor?

The rear 02 is almost always reading slightly high - which would indicate the cat right? Why can a failing cat cause the car to run rich?
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:27 PM   #432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
This is quite common with these cars and setups like yours. To properly help we would need quite a bit more data including logs.

1. Before you get crazy trying to fix it check the basics, air filter clean, MAF clean, all hoses are secure and there are no boost leaks, check fueling with a wideband if possible. Plug gaps ok? .028-.030 for higher boost.

2. What is yout IAM or DAM at?

3. You mentioned light load knock with light accel around 2500, a lot of tuners don't spend much time looking at part throttle and low load regions. Some tunes come on to hot with boost early to hit targets in lower gears, by the time you are in upper gears the high boost is coming in so early that your fuel and timing can be out of whack since it was left as stock.
thanks for the response so soon.
My DAM is 1 right now but in the past week or so it dropped to .8, .9 and also 0.0 once. I have checked my engine over for any vacuum leaks, etc. and haven't found anything. brand new filter (just got tuned for the k&n), maf has been cleaned in the last couple months, plugs gapped at .26 per my tuner. also, the car did this on stage 1 and 2 cobb maps, I just figured it was a characteristic of their maps but apparently not.

Last edited by RexMatt87; 06-08-2011 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:20 PM   #433
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Fuel quality and tune style can cause the DAM to fluctuate a little but dropping below .6 makes other things start to happen and the car will go into a limp type mode as it drops.

Usually 9 times out of 10 the cause for the drops we see are a result of a boost leak on one of the intercooler lines. The other causes may be fuel related such as the line to the fuel pressure regulator has come off or the fuel system in failing in some way.

Over boost can also cause what your seeing.

If you can borrow a wide band I would start by logging your fuel.

Have a real boost leak check done. I have seen WRX injectors leak boost around the seals pretty bad beofore so leaks can be anywhere.

The by pass valve may also be leaking or failing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RexMatt87 View Post
thanks for the response so soon.
My DAM is 1 right now but in the past week or so it dropped to .8, .9 and also 0.0 once. I have checked my engine over for any vacuum leaks, etc. and haven't found anything. brand new filter (just got tuned for the k&n), maf has been cleaned in the last couple months, plugs gapped at .26 per my tuner. also, the car did this on stage 1 and 2 cobb maps, I just figured it was a characteristic of their maps but apparently not.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:54 PM   #434
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i've recently changed my intercooler and re-tuned for that too, so i don't think it's the ic hoses, this has been happening for a while. this is the first time that the fuel injector thing has ever been brought to my attention. it does make sense, its just something I never would have thought of. I'll definitely get a real boost test done when I get some time and money. I think a compression/leakdown is in my future too just to rule engine failure out too.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:56 PM   #435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexMatt87 View Post
thanks for the response so soon.
My DAM is 1 right now but in the past week or so it dropped to .8, .9 and also 0.0 once. I have checked my engine over for any vacuum leaks, etc. and haven't found anything. brand new filter (just got tuned for the k&n), maf has been cleaned in the last couple months, plugs gapped at .26 per my tuner. also, the car did this on stage 1 and 2 cobb maps, I just figured it was a characteristic of their maps but apparently not.
Their ots maps are very timing heavy, check for any rattles and or loose things in the engine bay, and pull your trims to see if you have any obvious leaks. Intake leaks or loose stuff is your best place to start.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:40 AM   #436
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would an exhaust leak be a cause for knock? last time I seafoamed my motor a bunch of smoke came up from underneath, indicating a leak by my headers, just haven't gotten around to patching it up yet.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:49 PM   #437
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I don't think so. I would imagine it would have to be quite severe to do much besides sound bad and slow boost spool initially.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RexMatt87 View Post
would an exhaust leak be a cause for knock? last time I seafoamed my motor a bunch of smoke came up from underneath, indicating a leak by my headers, just haven't gotten around to patching it up yet.
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Old 06-27-2011, 02:03 PM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto
I can help you if your in Alaska. 99% of the cobb maps have LC and FFS. I can also custom tune the cobb maps.

Seth
907-355-6655 call or text.
I would really like a better Stage 2 tune for my bug eye.

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Old 06-28-2011, 12:52 PM   #439
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I have a 2011 stage 2 forester xt. When i cold start rpms are a little high about 1600rpm for 30 seconds after that it drops to about 1 rpm and bogs a little. I was wondering if this could be my maf because it seems to have happend after cleaning my drop in k&n filter im thinking i over oiled it? Is it safe to use maf cleaner on our maf and should i do this after every cleaning to prevent oil build up?
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:14 PM   #440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate_fisher
I have a 2011 stage 2 forester xt. When i cold start rpms are a little high about 1600rpm for 30 seconds after that it drops to about 1 rpm and bogs a little. I was wondering if this could be my maf because it seems to have happend after cleaning my drop in k&n filter im thinking i over oiled it? Is it safe to use maf cleaner on our maf and should i do this after every cleaning to prevent oil build up?
I can touch on the second part of your question. Yes, our MAF sensors can be cleaned(correctly). I do everytime I clean and re-oil mine. As for the cold start and idle. What do you mean bogs? Like its going to die or its just running a bit rough?
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:00 PM   #441
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just a bit rough after its warm everytime i start it it seem fine between .5 and 1 rpm. Its just on the first cold start. It may be normal and maybe im just blowing it out of proportion as i tend to do once i think somethings wrong i tend to look for it every time. The car has never stalled.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:16 PM   #442
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There are a number of things going on in these cars now on cold starts, most of it has to do with emmisions.

The MAF sensor can be cleaned often as long as you are using specific MAF cleaner. Over oiled filters can and will cause issues especially around idle or more.

Without logging your tune and seeing the car I can really just speculate. One thing you could try is going back to the stock tune and see if the cold start issues are still there, this at least rules out a tune issue. Keep in mind if you have changed anything major you may not be able to test the stock tune any more. Major means, injectors, different size MAF tube. Just test the cold starts don't go driving around on stock under boost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nate_fisher View Post
just a bit rough after its warm everytime i start it it seem fine between .5 and 1 rpm. Its just on the first cold start. It may be normal and maybe im just blowing it out of proportion as i tend to do once i think somethings wrong i tend to look for it every time. The car has never stalled.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:19 PM   #443
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Hey I have a black 03 wrx; all parts up to stage 4. Does anyone know how to tune TXS utec???
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:29 PM   #444
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thanks i will try that i only have a cnt catted downpipe and drop in filter etuned by clark turner. I have the ap so switching back to stage 0 is easy or do i need to unmarry the thing all together?
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:11 PM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate_fisher
thanks i will try that i only have a cnt catted downpipe and drop in filter etuned by clark turner. I have the ap so switching back to stage 0 is easy or do i need to unmarry the thing all together?
Nope, just change the map back to stock, no need to unmarry.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #446
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thanks i cleaned the maf will start it tonight after it cools. If that dosnt work i will flash back to stock in the morning and try again. I asked clark about it and he checked my previous logs and said its not the tune but it wasnt a cold start so we will see.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:36 PM   #447
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We can do those here at P3ia.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bootsy907 View Post
Hey I have a black 03 wrx; all parts up to stage 4. Does anyone know how to tune TXS utec???
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:25 PM   #448
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We can do those here at P3ia.
How much do you charge for tunes? I really need one
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:49 PM   #449
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For a basic stage 2 tune it would be $200.

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How much do you charge for tunes? I really need one
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:37 PM   #450
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Alright. So here's the deal I was dialing in my settings for my stage 2 map and I was pulling hard in 3rd gear. Hit target boost of 17.3psi, Then it knocked hard, cut timing and fuel. Now im running only 7psi of boost even after I reset the ECU and flashed it back to the Cobb stage 1 map. Please help?
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