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Old 11-03-2011, 02:58 PM   #501
P3Auto
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I have had issues with that very brand of injectors, the seals they come with are not very good. Well don't jump to conclusions just figure out a way to do the boost leak check, plenty of good threads on it.

My shop would help you but its kind of a long drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boostmasterflex View Post
I have brand new injector dynamic id1000s that the car was tuned with. I will try and pull a log. Although its tuned open source so my tuner will be the one pulling a log lol. If no luck with him ill send u the log.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:26 PM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto
I have had issues with that very brand of injectors, the seals they come with are not very good. Well don't jump to conclusions just figure out a way to do the boost leak check, plenty of good threads on it.

My shop would help you but its kind of a long drive.
Where are u located?
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:26 PM   #503
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Wasilla, Alaska

Where its warm...lol
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:42 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto
Wasilla, Alaska

Where its warm...lol
Daaaaaaaamn ya I'm n tx
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:49 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto
This definitely has all the symptoms of a boost leak some where. Look into building a home made boost leak checker from basic parts at home depot or lowes. The effects you describe make sense, the car will run rich under boost.

The lean idle should self adjust since your in closed loop at that point, it is always the cars goal to run 14.7 AFR during cruise and idle. I might suspect a bad wide band sensor or it needs to be re calibrated in fresh air. The front O2 sensor may be out of whack as well since this is what the ECU checks for closed loop fuel mix...

If you can log send me a screen shot from learningview.exe , this will tell me alot. In the mean time I would still say you have a leak. On a car of this age I have run into injector seals (bottom ones) leaking boost.
Ok. So I used my buddy's vacuum tester. We put about 45psi through the system with no leaks...um I don't have a catch can and my dipstick pops up sometimes...my tuner says its probably due to lack of catch can. Could that possibly cause the whiste noise? Any other suggestions? Or will a log be a necessity?
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:53 PM   #506
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Actually that's injector seal suggestion sounds plausible...ill pull the rails tomorrow and check that. Thanks you much for the help So far.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:14 PM   #507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostmasterflex

Where are u located?
Ok I started with the fuel rails and it seems one of the mounts n the head is stripped I tried 3 bolts in the rail and they wouldn't get tight
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:06 PM   #508
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Could that possibly be the culprit?
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:03 PM   #509
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Lets start with the first problem. You need to do a boost leak check not vac. Boost in positive pressure like when you blow into a ballon, vac is negative pressure.

A vac leak test may be sucking a leaking pipe down or closing the leak. When you apply positive pressure it tends to push things open that are weak like loose clamps,hoses, etc.

The dipstick popping out may be an issue (it has ZERO to do with lack of an OCC). If the oring on the dipstick is worn or missing and the stick pulls out really easy then replace the oring. The only other way your blowing dipsticks out is if you have high crank case pressure. Serveral things can cause this such as blocked or misrouted breather lines, or worst case excessive blow by. Excessive blow by indicates internal engine damage such as bad rings, cracked ring landings, etc.

The loose fuel rail could be an issue...Again we are back at the simple fact you need to do a boost leak check. Oh and maybe a compression or leak down test now to.
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:07 PM   #510
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BTW --- If my tuner told me my dipstick is blowing out due to a lack of oil catch can I might consider asking him to explain how.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:01 PM   #511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto
BTW --- If my tuner told me my dipstick is blowing out due to a lack of oil catch can I might consider asking him to explain how.
I will do a compression check...n I'm not losing/burning any oil, its most likely the o-ring.....atleast I hope so. Engine build only has 15k on it, with proper break-in tuning and amsoil oilchanges every 3k.. I always alow engine to reach operating temp before even driving it... **** now I'm worried. Ill tap/helicoil the fuel rail n comp tech. Thanks man

Last edited by boostmasterflex; 11-05-2011 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:35 PM   #512
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EBCS were being discussed a few pages back and you mentioned "Two basic options bleed style (stock way) and interupt style." Could you explain the interupt style? Also, when reading about different EBCS installs I have seen the option to feed the bleed off of the solenoid back thru the intake(stock style) or to the atmosphere. Which style is better and why? Is bleeding to the atmosphere what you are calling "interupt style?"
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:31 AM   #513
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I happened to stumble upon this thread and after reading the majority of it I definitely love some of the answers and questions given. I realize this was asked a couple times but I'm curious on your suggestion for a turbo able to hit 400 whp and not have all that much more lag than say... a vf39. Essentially I would want a turbo that 400whp is near its max output but not exactly straining it to get there.

My current mods on the 07 wrx are a vf39 with a turboxs full 3inch tbe to a hks carbon ti with the grimmspeed 3 port bcs and an old version of the aps tmic. Also stock exhaust and on open source tuning.

If I were to get a different turbo set up to reach the above mentioned whp though I would probably go equal length headers, an external wastegate, and the meth kit you mentioned and swear by (lol) in order to try and extract every bit of power from the turbo and get the spool I want.

My guess would be something like a 20g with an 8cm hotside or maybe a dom 2.5 with a 8cm?
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:00 PM   #514
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I really don't want to go into to much detail here because there are tons of threads that cover this. I will answer the questions as best as I can though.

The stock system uses a method to bleed the boost signal away from the waste gate actuator, the bled off air is then returned to the intake. This is because even that small amount of air is metered originally by the ecu and also it is a nice clean setup (quiet as well) from an engineering stand point.

The interupt type systems are plumbed differently. Typically it is done with a 3 port boost control solenoid versus the stock 2-port. The 3 port solenoid is placed directly between the boost signal source and the waste gate actuator, it then interupts or blocks the signal from reaching the waste gate completely. The 3rd port on the boost control solenoid can then be routed back to the intake optionally. Again this keeps things clean.

The 3 port systems in the interupt style configuration tend to be faster to respond and ensure that no boost signal reaches the wastegate at all when needed. This also allows for a much more broad range of adjustment without the need to use boost restriction pills and such like the stock configuration requires. Targets are more easilly reached in various gears because the waste gate duty cycle curves can be more aggresive thanks to the quick response of the system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnyet View Post
EBCS were being discussed a few pages back and you mentioned "Two basic options bleed style (stock way) and interupt style." Could you explain the interupt style? Also, when reading about different EBCS installs I have seen the option to feed the bleed off of the solenoid back thru the intake(stock style) or to the atmosphere. Which style is better and why? Is bleeding to the atmosphere what you are calling "interupt style?"
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:17 PM   #515
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Yes this question has come up a few times. There is some basic info that really sums it up. To reach HP goals you need air flow. Turbos that are rated in lb/min is an easy way to guestimate the possible power out put on Subarus. For instance a DOM3 is around a 52lb/min turbo. Simply add a zero to that number making it 520 and thats about what the crank HP may be. Keep in mind this a rough way of looking at it but its close. Then you have to factor in drive train losses etc. We know fairly well that a DOM3 is fine making 400WHP.

So you have a few issues with your goals. To move the air you need to have bigger turbines, the larger turbos will always spool slower. You can expect spool around 3500-4000 rpm depending on what your target PSI is. To make 400whp with a DOM3 I would expect 3800 with a big TMIC and 22-24PSI (total guess based on previous cars).

Lag is a problem that has been around since the start with turbos. Engineers still have yet to make a single scroll turbo do what your asking on a 2.5l subaru motor. This is why we see twin turbo setups and twin scroll turbos. So to have the spool of a vf39 and hit 400whp its most likely not going to happen without compromise. Twin scroll setups are great but to use them in your car would require quite a bit of funds. It can be done and is being done but its expensive for us USDM guys.

Finally your last problem is the motor. Hang on..Flame suit on!! I personally would not expect your motor to make that kind of power very long on stock internals. I know its being done but we rebuild 2-3 ej25 motors a month that have broken rods, pistons, etc with far less output. Granted there are tons of varibles as to why these motors break but history being what it is I would be cautious if I were you.

If your interested in more information check threads about twin scroll JDM turbo setups. There are also vendors that sell kits. I continue to put off the twin turbo project here but one day I think we will try it for fun when we get time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yulri View Post
I happened to stumble upon this thread and after reading the majority of it I definitely love some of the answers and questions given. I realize this was asked a couple times but I'm curious on your suggestion for a turbo able to hit 400 whp and not have all that much more lag than say... a vf39. Essentially I would want a turbo that 400whp is near its max output but not exactly straining it to get there.

My current mods on the 07 wrx are a vf39 with a turboxs full 3inch tbe to a hks carbon ti with the grimmspeed 3 port bcs and an old version of the aps tmic. Also stock exhaust and on open source tuning.

If I were to get a different turbo set up to reach the above mentioned whp though I would probably go equal length headers, an external wastegate, and the meth kit you mentioned and swear by (lol) in order to try and extract every bit of power from the turbo and get the spool I want.

My guess would be something like a 20g with an 8cm hotside or maybe a dom 2.5 with a 8cm?
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:32 AM   #516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yulri
I happened to stumble upon this thread and after reading the majority of it I definitely love some of the answers and questions given. I realize this was asked a couple times but I'm curious on your suggestion for a turbo able to hit 400 whp and not have all that much more lag than say... a vf39. Essentially I would want a turbo that 400whp is near its max output but not exactly straining it to get there.

My current mods on the 07 wrx are a vf39 with a turboxs full 3inch tbe to a hks carbon ti with the grimmspeed 3 port bcs and an old version of the aps tmic. Also stock exhaust and on open source tuning.

If I were to get a different turbo set up to reach the above mentioned whp though I would probably go equal length headers, an external wastegate, and the meth kit you mentioned and swear by (lol) in order to try and extract every bit of power from the turbo and get the spool I want.

My guess would be something like a 20g with an 8cm hotside or maybe a dom 2.5 with a 8cm?
Hta green, small hot side.....
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:53 AM   #517
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Good morning everyone. I need to pick your brains for a few minutes. Searched the web but couldnt find an answer specific to Subarus.

Car is an 09 WRX with catless full turbo back exhaust, Bigger TMIC, K&N Drop in Filter, AEM Analog UEGO. Cobb Accessport running custom stage 2 tune written by me thru Access Tuner Race. I also run about 50 oz of pure methanol in the gas tank with every fill-up.

The tune is absolutely perfect. Makes a ton more power up top compared to OTS stage 2. All feedback knock and fine knock learning is gone under any sort of load. MAF scaling was adjusted to compensate for Meth running lean and bigger TMIC, K&N flowing easier.

Here is the issue im having. Im using the AP to monitor knock. Im getting a maximum fine knock learning of -1.4 if i let of gas and go into engine decel at any rpm over 3200. If also feather the gas so i can be in super light cruise, i get fine knock values under -1 at any rpm above 3500. During these fine knocks, the AP is showing no feedback knock. Im also keeping an eye on AFR's during this and it seems to be normal. Boost gauge is also showing correct vacuum. This fine knock learn only happens under Calculated load of 1. Never over that. But it mostly happens when i completely let off gas and go into engine braking at rpms over 3500. Then i see it hit a maximum of -1.4 and eventually taper to 0 as the rpms decel and go under 3000rpm.


Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated. This whole tuning thing has been an incredible learning experience for me. I enjoy the risk and reward when done methodically safe. I enjoy the hours of research and reading I have done on the topic. But it seems like, experience can not be learned by reading so I have hit a wall with this. I havent been too worried about it because it is during low loads and practically mostly during decel. It could even possibly be phantom knock the ecu has learned around.

Thanks for your time.


PS: After posting this, I realized that Im in the Alaska forums. I'm sorry if I come off as a rude intruder but really could not find any answers on this specific issue. So I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks again.
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:09 PM   #518
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Ok I will just start off by saying you have nothing to worry about. The possible knock you are having is as you stated in a very low load region. The only time you should worry about knock would be during higher loads generally. Make note of your knock correction during fast shifts and make sure the correction isn't going on once you back under load. Keep in mind that logging is typically delayed a little bit. the more you log the more lag you see so log only calc load, rpm, and fbkc in this case.

The usual reason for the slight knock your seeing off throttle is caused in part by the extreme timing called for in the tables under low loads. For example (only example) at 3.2 load and 4500 rpm your tune may call for 15 degrees of advance, when you shut the throttle the load falls back below say 1.5 load, at this point your car may suddenly be calling for 30+ degrees of timing. There are some other factors at play like the sudden change in AFR, unburnt fuel in the cyl, etc.

If the knock is enough and common at the same spot all of the time the car will learn to trim timing in that area. You can see this in the learned knock tables or by using an application called learningview.exe with a tactrix cable.

Last comment...The 50oz of meth your putting in your tank is probably doing more harm then good. Methanol is very corrosive and when used in a system that is not designed for it the effects can be bad. The octane boost your looking for would take a lot more meth mixed in to get. I suggest researching toulene or xylene if you want to make your own octane boost. Also consider direct meth/water injection as this will yield VERY good results in both cooler intake charges and increseased octane effect.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fulltimeW.O.T. View Post
Good morning everyone. I need to pick your brains for a few minutes. Searched the web but couldnt find an answer specific to Subarus.

Car is an 09 WRX with catless full turbo back exhaust, Bigger TMIC, K&N Drop in Filter, AEM Analog UEGO. Cobb Accessport running custom stage 2 tune written by me thru Access Tuner Race. I also run about 50 oz of pure methanol in the gas tank with every fill-up.

The tune is absolutely perfect. Makes a ton more power up top compared to OTS stage 2. All feedback knock and fine knock learning is gone under any sort of load. MAF scaling was adjusted to compensate for Meth running lean and bigger TMIC, K&N flowing easier.

Here is the issue im having. Im using the AP to monitor knock. Im getting a maximum fine knock learning of -1.4 if i let of gas and go into engine decel at any rpm over 3200. If also feather the gas so i can be in super light cruise, i get fine knock values under -1 at any rpm above 3500. During these fine knocks, the AP is showing no feedback knock. Im also keeping an eye on AFR's during this and it seems to be normal. Boost gauge is also showing correct vacuum. This fine knock learn only happens under Calculated load of 1. Never over that. But it mostly happens when i completely let off gas and go into engine braking at rpms over 3500. Then i see it hit a maximum of -1.4 and eventually taper to 0 as the rpms decel and go under 3000rpm.


Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated. This whole tuning thing has been an incredible learning experience for me. I enjoy the risk and reward when done methodically safe. I enjoy the hours of research and reading I have done on the topic. But it seems like, experience can not be learned by reading so I have hit a wall with this. I havent been too worried about it because it is during low loads and practically mostly during decel. It could even possibly be phantom knock the ecu has learned around.

Thanks for your time.


PS: After posting this, I realized that Im in the Alaska forums. I'm sorry if I come off as a rude intruder but really could not find any answers on this specific issue. So I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks again.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #519
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Hey, would any tuners be willing to take a look at logs if they are posted here and let me know if they see anything really wrong?
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #520
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We can take a quick look but to really do things right it would be nice to see the tune as well. There are a lot of varibles so if you have a specic question or concern its easier to start with that then we can tell you what you need to log or what information to provide.

Quote:
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Hey, would any tuners be willing to take a look at logs if they are posted here and let me know if they see anything really wrong?
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:41 AM   #521
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I meant logs and tune. I will have all the information by the time I give you any. So I will give you all the information.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:58 PM   #522
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Just ordered my COBB SF Intake & Accessport for my 2011 wrx...and i read through all the maps and options i can tune my car to. It seems like there are different map going for arizona, californa and nevada.

I need help finding out which would be the right map for using these parts in Arizona.

Thanks.
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:11 PM   #523
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Were in Alaska. I dont think we can help much for your specific set up...
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:19 PM   #524
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Start with the 91 map and log feed back knock correction. It should stay at 0 degrees or at the most make no more than -2 degree adjustments during a WOT pull.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:14 PM   #525
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So I have a 03 bugeye and I want to drop a STI longblock into it. I really don't wish to get into a huge spending spree getting all the tranny back drivetrain goodies, so I was wondering if the 5spd tranny would bolt to the 2.5 block without too many outrageously priced issues? Aslo on another note is there anyone in the city of Fairbanks that is a professional accessport tuner?
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