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Old 04-12-2010, 06:46 PM   #101
pumpkin head
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justy swap justy swap!! Think of how much more business it'll bring your shop, it'll be siiick!
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:54 PM   #102
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If I can keep the cost low I know they will sell. I could actually leave the piston choice as an option.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:30 PM   #103
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i agree with keeping the stock sti rods but i would throw in rod bearings imo. a piston choice would be nice for the people who would want crown or skirt coatings.

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Old 04-12-2010, 08:43 PM   #104
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The problem with race or upgraded bearings over stock bearings is they actually wear faster under normal conditions.



The way I understand it is that race bearings can take more punishment then stock bearings but they wear faster then stock during normal or lower power use. So unless someone wanted a really high power build the upgraded bearings would not be worth it.


On another note, how do you guys feel about ARP head studs? I vote yes.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:47 PM   #105
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Yes to all ARP hardware.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:50 PM   #106
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I am interested....
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:55 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
On another note, how do you guys feel about ARP head studs? I vote yes.
+1
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:10 PM   #108
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yes to APR anything and yes about acl bearing wearing faster than a OEM set would, race cars use them because they can take the forces and friction created from 4, 5, 6 hundred hp engines, but those engines are being rebuilt every 3k to 5k before failing also...
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:54 PM   #109
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I have roughly 25k miles now on my acl 0.001 oversize bearings...spinning to 8k rpm & maxxed out 30R =) So far so good with them.
Unsure on wear.. haven't heard any "horrible" noises yet. lol
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Old 04-12-2010, 11:31 PM   #110
Brando5185
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Do I need a tweak to my tune if I go to a short ram intake? My rpm's dip when I let off and the car seems like it wants to die. Do I just need to reset the ECU? Had to take the CAI off b/c the tire was rubbing the filter.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:15 AM   #111
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How is the wideband looking? AFR seem the same at WOT as before?

There could be some tweaking that needs to be done in the low voltage section of the MAF scaling(idle and cruise). If you know how to log the learned fuel trims take a look and see if any of those learned values have skewed more than 6% or so.

Is the intake you put on supposed to me a direct bolt on part? I have found a few of them still need a little tweaking to get them perfect.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:22 AM   #112
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ACL bearings are fine like stock ones, its the race version of them that makes the difference.


I think in terms of all ARP hardware that might be a bit overkill. The ARP nuts/bolts/studs are expensive. I'm not sure I really care to use them any where else except on the heads, again to save some cost.

If we stick to the idea of a motor build that mainly fixes the weak links with the stock motor then we can keep the costs down. The STI block really is built well stock except for those pistons!
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:12 AM   #113
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Are you just doing Subaru engines? Or all makes/models?
You could very inexpensively build a Honda LS/VTEC engine with an Integra LS Block, B16 or B18C VTEC head, you could drill the block or bulk buy LS VTEC kits from Golden Eagle. stock sized pistons out of an Integra LS/GS/RS/GSR/TypeR all fit as well as any B16 pistons out of a Civic Si or the like. For turbo builds use Integra GSR cams, NA go with B16 or Type R depending on power goals/budget of builds. Chip ECU can be had from Xenocron for $150. You could easily build a 160-180whp (about 210 crank, more than a Type R) for around $1500 and easily sell for $2000.
There is also the VW camp you can play towards. ABA blocks with 16V turbo heads are all the rage right now.

Anyways, just asking if you were going to support more than Subies, thats all.
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:28 AM   #114
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After it is warmed up the short fuel trims are -2% and long trims are-15%
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:32 AM   #115
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I vote leak somewhere if the LTFT is maxed like that.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:43 AM   #116
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-DAM is still 1.0
-AFR's are still High 10/Low 11:1 at 3/4-WOT
-Stumbling is gone, seems to have a tiny bit more pronounced lag then it feels like it hits harder all at once instead of gradual building.
-Fuel trims are still bad though. When cruising under 1/4 throttle or so they both zero out.

I will go through this afternoon and check all my piping for leaks.
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:05 PM   #117
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It's the idle-range (0-<5.60g/s) LTFT that's maxed, right?
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:06 PM   #118
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Correct right around 3-5g/s at idle
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:39 PM   #119
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Didn't tell us what pipe you installed. Some "bolt on" pipes like K&N systems seems to be rich about 10% in areas. Leaks could cause this as well of course. Crappy intake designs can also have flat spots or turbulent spots at certain flows.



If you cannot find any leaks (use a boost leak check tool bolted on in place of the air filter) then I can take a look at rescaling the MAF for you. I also have the tool if you want to bring in by some time.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:40 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando5185 View Post
Correct right around 3-5g/s at idle
Also if your using an adjustable BOV/BPV make sure its not leaking at idle.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:43 PM   #121
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All imports. Currently though I have some demand for built engines in Subarus.

What is the urls for the local honda, mitsu, and vw forums?
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:44 PM   #122
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Was told it is an older style Perrin short ram. Running stock BOV recirced back to inlet tube. I dont have a boost leak tester so I was just gonna check all my pipes and couplers.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:46 PM   #123
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When are you gonna be having these in stock? like next month? I may be just interested around that time frame.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:54 PM   #124
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Ok, well see what you can find. FMIC setups can be a pain to find leaks on with out a pressure tester. Tighten all the clamps and make sure the pipes are straight where they meet the clamps.

It problably is just the MAF tube, needs a little tweaking maybe in the map.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:56 PM   #125
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As soon as I figure out the best parts I will get them setup and in the shop.
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