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Old 04-14-2010, 03:32 AM   #151
sol0
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For local Honda stuff: http://www.alaskamotorsports.com/for...splay.php?f=19

For local VW/Euro stuff: http://www.akeuro.com/forum/index.php

For National Level Honda info (great site): http://www.honda-tech.com/

For National Level VW: http://forums.vwvortex.com/
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:33 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjcarter2 View Post
Have you thought about a "Core Exchange" program to go along with it? It could help keep costs down too.
this X2!!!!!
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:14 AM   #153
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Whats your take on Up Pipes on Sti's? Specifically 06 Sti's. I changed my oil the other day & noticed my "Stock" Up Pipe very lose & rattling. I suspect its cracked/broken. I have read about after market Up Pipes causing hours or problems with tuning session. Any input? Thanks

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Old 04-14-2010, 12:37 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHADOW 06sti View Post
Whats your take on Up Pipes on Sti's? Specifically 06 Sti's. I changed my oil the other day & noticed my "Stock" Up Pipe very lose & rattling. I suspect its cracked/broken. I have read about after market Up Pipes causing hours or problems with tuning session. Any input? Thanks

Mod list:
Greddy Header
HKS Bellmouth DP
HKS Turbo Back Exhaust
Cobb AP Stg 2 Map @ 93 Oct
K&N Filter
Walbro FP

The rattles are most likely the head shields around it. If it starts leaking exhaust then you should replace it.

A proper fitting pipe is key when going aftermarket. The stock pipe has a flex joint in it which makes it easy to install and use. Aftermarkets do not always have this, they can also suffer from cracking around the flanges. Unless you plan to run and EWG I see no reason or gains to be found with and aftermarket UPP. Find another stock STI pipe on the forums and replace yours if you need to.

Last edited by P3Auto; 04-14-2010 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:50 PM   #155
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Cores will depend on the situation. For instance the blocks I am looking to buy are brand new STI blocks with no core charge. Since a lot of customers are replacing the 2.0l with the 2.5l block I figured that would cause a problem if there was a core charge.

I honestly can't see a reason to build and replace a 2.0l block. Now in the case of a STI block core that isn't in bad shape I think we could offer a buy back deal.
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:54 PM   #156
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Cool, thanks for the Info!! Awesome Thread P3Auto!
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:59 PM   #157
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Sent you a PM...
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:31 PM   #158
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Just an FYI...

The purpose of this thread is to listen to the public. As always I want to know what you (the customers) have to say. This should not be interpreted as "we don't know what were doing and need your help!".

I believe in shared pools of knowlege and wisdom.

In the end P3 (the shop) will decide what the build will be. The input from all of you may help us look at all of the options and not miss anything new or unknown.

As always thanks! And for those of you that have really worked to get this shop going you know we have you covered when you need our help! This is a two way street.
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:36 PM   #159
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Last edited by P3Auto; 04-14-2010 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #160
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So far its looks like I WILL be able to pull off a nicely built STI block for under $3000. Could be as low as $2500 if I can get shipping squared up better.

Now this would be for just an EJ257 short block with upgrades.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:38 PM   #161
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are you going to do anything with heads in the future? or just sticking with engine blocks
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:45 PM   #162
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For now problably just blocks, we may put together a full long block setup in the future depending on demand.
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:01 AM   #163
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Tell me whats wrong with this picure:



The text reads in the picture "This is the fuel distribution block on a WRX. Most of the time, this piece is obscured by the air-filter system"


This is out of a book called: High Performance Subaru Builders Guide by Jeff Zurschmeide


I started to question the content after I came across this. The text reads "Once in the engine bay, the fuel travels to a distribution block --- just an aluminum block drilled to divide the single pressurized fuel stream into four streams-- one for each cyl in the engine. These streams run through the fuel rails ..."

So this is how the WRX does it..lol the ABS pump doubles as a fuel distribution block...Makes sense to me now!
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:18 AM   #164
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I feel extremely retarded now. I checked my oil today and noticed that I may or may not have left a vacumn line unconnected from the turbo inlet tube. I may or may not have plugged it back in and my LTFT went to -4% at idle and STFT went to -13% at idle. Is that closer to normal?
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:24 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando5185 View Post
I feel extremely retarded now. I checked my oil today and noticed that I may or may not have left a vacumn line unconnected from the turbo inlet tube. I may or may not have plugged it back in and my LTFT went to -4% at idle and STFT went to -13% at idle. Is that closer to normal?

This sounds like a frickin riddle there bud...Reset the ECU and let it relearn then give the readings again after a few mins at idle.

FYI --- Short term and long term trims are added together for the total trim. So at that moment your making a 17% adjusment in fuel to reach an AFR of 14.7:1 . This is not good but not dangerous since the car can fix it and its on the rich side not the lean side. As long as your not missing your fuel tragets when your WOT or in open loop your ok.

Adjustments should be made or the issue identified to improve idle and driveability, I imagine you might be getting some "trailering feel" on and off throttle. Jeeze can't spell tonight...
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:33 AM   #166
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Fuel systems must be way different on STi's none of my lines run that way. That book has promise for some great typos be sure to keep the coming
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:39 AM   #167
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I reset the ecu, let it run for a little bit, went to DQ and got an ice cream cone. Once I got home I let it idle for a little bit and got those numbers.

What was throwing it off was a vacumn line unhooked from the turbo inlet tube. So it was sucking air after the MAF. :-/

When cruising or giving it gas at idle they both zero out.
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:40 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
Tell me whats wrong with this picure:



The text reads in the picture "This is the fuel distribution block on a WRX. Most of the time, this piece is obscured by the air-filter system"


This is out of a book called: High Performance Subaru Builders Guide by Jeff Zurschmeide


I started to question the content after I came across this. The text reads "Once in the engine bay, the fuel travels to a distribution block --- just an aluminum block drilled to divide the single pressurized fuel stream into four streams-- one for each cyl in the engine. These streams run through the fuel rails ..."

So this is how the WRX does it..lol the ABS pump doubles as a fuel distribution block...Makes sense to me now!
I own this book.....I was paging through it shortly after doing my fuel rails and had to do a double take........the fueling system must work via quantum mechanics.

Its an ok read but its more an overview than anything else,....meh christmans present.
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:46 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando5185 View Post
I reset the ecu, let it run for a little bit, went to DQ and got an ice cream cone. Once I got home I let it idle for a little bit and got those numbers.

What was throwing it off was a vacumn line unhooked from the turbo inlet tube. So it was sucking air after the MAF. :-/

When cruising or giving it gas at idle they both zero out.
Hmm backwards...Should have been leaning out, but who cares if its fixed thats great!
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:50 AM   #170
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Yeah I picked up the book other day because at a glance it seemed interesting. No real substance but it will make a great read for customers at the shop and I can use it to visually explain things, except of course the fuel system!
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:56 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
Hmm backwards...Should have been leaning out, but who cares if its fixed thats great!

My car never does what it is supposed to do. I am glad it is fixed as well. Pulls and idles alot better now. Ordering Perrin big MAF next paycheck!
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:58 AM   #172
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Make sure you keep setting aside $100 a week for that built motor your gonna need one day.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:03 AM   #173
Brando5185
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That will come next time I deploy lol. Drop it off and say it better be built when I get back in 6 months. Email me when you need more money, HAHA
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:40 AM   #174
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If you are even THINKING about building a short block yourself you need to shelve that idea and let the shop build it for you.

YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO BUILD IT CHEAPER.

Between parts (if you can get them close to cost) and machining alone you will be at these quoted prices... it's like he is throwing in his labor and experience in for free.

Not sure how you can do it but at these prices you should be loaded up on work till Fall...
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Old 04-15-2010, 05:33 PM   #175
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Should have been more clear...Below $3000 is the built block only. Book time for an engine swap (long blocks) is around 11 hours so it would be more to move parts and install heads.

And your correct I would never entertain the idea of home brew machine shop work.

I am getting a sweet deal on brand new factory STI blocks as my foundation here that is what helps keep the cost down to start with.
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