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Old 03-23-2010, 11:22 PM   #1
rb2009
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Default Sound Proofing / Deading for 2008 Impreza Hatchback...

Hello guys,

I wanted to sound proof my base 2008 impreza hatchback. What price range am I looking at? Can anybody recommend a good shop in seattle area?

Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:56 PM   #2
geddesk2
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Hey!

I sound deadened my 08 STI doors using raamat and recommend it very much!

I did my doors and have enough to do the trunk floor.

I purchased self adhering Ensolite and BXT II....cost was 150.

www.rammaudio.com
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Old 03-24-2010, 04:17 PM   #3
rb2009
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Did you do the work yourself? How long did it take you?

Do you know of any shops that do this type of work and how much they charge?
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:44 AM   #4
iBelieveButton
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bump on this...what is the process like for installing the mat
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:11 PM   #5
allonblack
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How much of a difference did it make. Ive been thinking of dping this myself.
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:51 AM   #6
fastwrx25
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did it myself. worth the time imo. I did it for road noise, and sound insulation after i installed new stereo stuff.

I used the raamat and did my doors, roof, rear hatch area. I have ordered some ensolite and plan to get some more raammat to do the floor.

The only downsides is adding some weight, and the time it takes to take panels off and install. If you paid a shop to do this it would cost alot for labor.

Order some mat and foam, spray on adhesive for the foam and go nuts on your car over a weekend. The mat you peel and stick on...very easy to install. taking off panels is easy and straight foward..most the time will be spent on cutting the soundeadening to size and sticking it on.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:53 AM   #7
TXwrxWagon
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to fully deaden a car with a single layer of any brand mat, figure at least 16 hours @ shop rates of $50+ so starting @ $800 labor + materials.

To put it in perspective, I have done this in several vehicles for myself & others. It took me roughly 2 hours to get the headliner in my wagon down & out of the way. Figure another hour-hour-half for the seats & carpet, & maybe 1/2 hour more for the 4 door cards. This is moving at a reasonable pace & not breaking any of the delicate Subaru panel clips/retainers. So 4 hours to gut the interior is what most shop are going to assume.

Then on to prep & clean up. Getting rid of the old sound materials (depending on the age of the car). your's being an '08 they will deaden right over the OE materials. One of the many overlooked steps is the careful removal & re-installation of the wiring harnesses. Many shops just leave them to flop about under the carpet.

The deadening process is easy, but it depends on how much you want out of it & how much weight you don't mind adding. Remember, you don't HAVE to cover every inch, AND multiple layers doesn't always guarantee more deadening effect. different materials deaden different problems. Peel & stick gets rid of resonations in the panel, whether metal or plastic, as they both resonate at different frequencies. Foam barriers, like Esolite help absorb waves moving through the air (a simplified explanation to be sure) but that is the best way to describe what is happening. So you need to identify WHAT you are trying to not hear, so you get the right product in the right places. Mass Loaded barriers (typically foam with vinyl or lead bonded to them) are great for the wheel-wells & wheel arches. peel in stick is great for floors, doors, roof structures, long flat, wide panels.

So with peel-n-stick, you can do a "chess board pattern" of 4" to 6" squares on the roof panel between the braces, then do wide swatches on the floor between braces & such. Or large squares under the seats, full pieces from side to side in the front & rear foot wells.

Doors: this is an area of debate. Again, depends on what you are attacking. If you want that solid Mercedes/BMW door "thunk" or you are trying to seal up the door to improve speaker performance, then you need something to fill in the access holes first them deaden the door in 1 continuous sheet of peel-n-stick. Also, the most benefit in the doors to getting that "thunk" is to do the back side of the outer door skin & the crash bars. Again, coverage here will make the biggest difference. I use 5-6" wide 36" long strips, because they are easier to get into the doors & work with. Then overlap each strip about 3/4"-1". then a layer of Esolite-like materials over that. Be sure to stop the Foam about 1" from the bottom of the inside of the door, so it won't absorb water when it rains. after the inide of the door i done, you can seal up the access holes with either 1/8" ABS plastic (that's what I like to use) or some people use tin roofer's flashing. I find it a little too thin... but people swear by their results with it. Don't use wood of any type. No, not even if its painted, sealed, whatever.... No... just... no wood.

From there... just go nuts. Save all your little scraps & cast off pieces & bits. They are great on the A_B_C pillars behind speakers, for little creases which the main mat panels miss etc. I keep a sheet of the backing paper right next to me in the car at all times, the lil scraps I just stick back on the backing paper.

Lastly: clean up, your clothes & your interior. The hotter it iss outside or the hotter you heat the mat the more mess it makes. The black sticky stuff will get on EVERYTHING> be carefull what you touch, what touches you, & what the mat touches. You can usually get the black stuff off with wax/grease remover. On clothes or upholstery, steam it out.

Good luck... I wouldn't dream of parting with $300 let alone $800 in labor. If you can turn a screw driver or socket set, you can do this.. it just takes a full weekend & a couple cases of your fav beverage. call some friends over make it a deadening party.

Rob

Last edited by TXwrxWagon; 03-28-2010 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:30 AM   #8
Halfaed
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TX, how much weight would you say it adds, roughly with doors and everything?
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:08 PM   #9
TXwrxWagon
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well, as always depends. If you called RaMatt & ordered (2) rolls of BXT, the roll weight a total of about maybe 20lbs or so. you should be able to do most of a typical WRX with (2) rolls, in a single layer.


i would say when I get done with my '04 Wagon, I will have added maybe 30-35lbs total... guessing.

I need to weight a full roll of BXT. Also remember every company measures/packages differently. Ramatt does it in 18" wide rolls & you get (2) rolls. Others are 36" wide & you get 1 roll. Both cover the same sq footage. but you waste more in the 36" roll.

a reasonably well damped/deadened WRX would add between 20 & 30 lbs.

Rob
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:20 PM   #10
TXwrxWagon
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here ya go... EXCELLENT write up by the guy who owns Raamat

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=712026

Rob
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:25 PM   #11
rb2009
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Guys, I don't know how I haven't seen the updates to this thread. I only saw them when I was googling for more info on sound proofing for 2008 imprezas

Thanks a lot for so much info!

I have questions:
1) I found a guy who could sound proof the entire car for $350 -- he said that it's what he specializes in and because of that has a lot of audio work to do and can do it for that price. Sounds suspicious but he is MECP and provides warranty on the work he does. Does this sound reasonably? He said that he will do the entire car except for the firewall -- I got no idea what it means. What questions should I ask him?
2) This same guy says that I will need 3-4 dynamat extreme bulk pack (each pack contains nine 18" x 36" sheets). Do I really need dynamat? It seems pretty expensive. Are there cheaper alternatives?
3) Once you sound proof the entire car properly, is it really a lot of different?

I'd do it myself but I know that it'll take me 2 days and I can make more than $350 in 2 days doing the work that I know how to do and I don't know if my job will compare to what a professional will do.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:34 PM   #12
fastwrx25
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^^do it yourself with friends and beer over a weekend. It really isnt that bad and can be kinda fun trying to find places to put mat down. Dynamat is kinda pricey for what it is imo. Ebay has generic dynamat also.

or just buy directly from the raamat dude and ask for nasioc discount.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:07 PM   #13
WinterSubie
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I'm also planning on soundproofing my 09 hatch when I put in a new stereo but I'm thinking of just using the cheap stuff bestbuy sells. Has anyone tried that stuff or have any reviews?
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:02 AM   #14
AWDCRAZY
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Do you have panel resonance, or do you want the whole car to sound quieter from road noise and wind noise?
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Old 11-16-2010, 12:34 PM   #15
TonyBenino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDCRAZY View Post
Do you have panel resonance, or do you want the whole car to sound quieter from road noise and wind noise?
Hey I'm new to the NASIOC forums here but this is exactly my problem, I have both of those. The doors vibrate from music even when it's fairly quiet and the road noise (especially over 60 MPH) makes my ears ring. What would you suggest? Thanks!

-Tony
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Old 11-16-2010, 07:08 PM   #16
ryleewalker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyBenino View Post
Hey I'm new to the NASIOC forums here but this is exactly my problem, I have both of those. The doors vibrate from music even when it's fairly quiet and the road noise (especially over 60 MPH) makes my ears ring. What would you suggest? Thanks!

-Tony
dynamat!

there is an alternative called peel&stick from home depot (roof insulation)

i did my hatch and spare tire well, and rear doors, helped immensly.

also at 16 a roll you cant beat it.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:36 PM   #17
TonyBenino
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Thanks Rylee! Not sure if I want to use the Home Depot alternative but I'll definitely consider it.
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:05 PM   #18
twilightx
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Fat Mat is also a decent alternative. Dynamat is too pricey for my taste.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:42 PM   #19
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Ok, got a bone stock 2005 sti. Want to sound deaden the doors floor wheel arches and trunk from wind noise roand noise and exhaust note. Recommendations for materials to use in each area and price is no object. All help appreciated, thanks.
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