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Old 03-31-2010, 06:26 PM   #1
elitescouter
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Default My STi burned 2 and half quarts of oil in 800 miles??? Catch can = full

Ok so I am going out of my mind here. My car used up 2 and half quarts in about 800 miles. I did my oil change 800 miles ago, filled it up and it was all good, emptyd my catch can and changed my oil filter. I put in Redline 5W30 every oil change. I do the oil change my self and I do it under 3k miles every time. I included some pictures of my catch can... It was litteraly full and the crap was going back into the intake. I don't know why it fills up so fast and no idea where my oil is going. It's not leaking at least no spots on the ground and when I change my oil its really clean under.

My car runs good no issues with power. I do drive my car differently than other people. Theres no day that the car doesen't see high rpms. I always check my liquids before driving it. I run RomRaider logger no matter where I drive. Any ideas?

Here are some catchcan pictures... This was made in 800 miles.





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Old 03-31-2010, 06:29 PM   #2
blkwrx06
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damn thats milky. Do a leak down test.
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Old 03-31-2010, 06:34 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by blkwrx06 View Post
damn thats milky. Do a leak down test.
^i deff suggest a leak down test. my car did something like this about a year ago i dont have a catch can but it burnt a quart of oil in like 500 miles. all i did was change the pvc valve and changed my oil and it never happened again.
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Old 03-31-2010, 06:45 PM   #4
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the fact its so milky makes me wonder if its a headgasket. It very well could be as simple as a pcv, but....god damn thats milky as all hell. I burn half a quart of oil every 5k if that. i push my car harder then most, I use penzoil platnium 5w30. 33k on dash currently.

OP is your radiator reservoir milky colored?
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by blkwrx06 View Post
the fact its so milky makes me wonder if its a headgasket. It very well could be as simple as a pcv, but....god damn thats milky as all hell. I burn half a quart of oil every 5k if that. i push my car harder then most, I use penzoil platnium 5w30. 33k on dash currently.

OP is your radiator reservoir milky colored?
No it's not. It's the blue color.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:27 PM   #6
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No it's not. It's the blue color.
lol, its not green? What brand fluid are you using? I didnt mean your radiator fluid would be quite the same color as your oil is right now. I mean like cloudy/murky.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:34 PM   #7
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It's normal to 'catch' more during the winter months. However, that much blow-by has me wondering about the condition of one or more pistons.

Hate to say it, you are describing the first symptoms of my old shot 2.0
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:05 PM   #8
elitescouter
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I just went to the shop. They told me the compression is low. They said the ring land on the piston is shot. It would cost me 4500$ with forget pistons. This is not looking good for me. I don't have this kind of money at the moment. Any other routes I can go?
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:23 PM   #9
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Last edited by davidsti1; 03-31-2010 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:43 PM   #10
elitescouter
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Wow thanks on those links!

Is it really true the ring land can go on a 68k mile motor that's been only stg 2 for around 30k miles?
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elitescouter View Post
Wow thanks on those links!

Is it really true the ring land can go on a 68k mile motor that's been only stg 2 for around 30k miles?
Might have been something as simple as bad gas, so yes unfortunatly its very possible.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:17 PM   #12
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So putting in a new block would fix this? I honestly can't pay $4500 just for forged pistons and couple of gaskets. New block is 2k shipped, I have a friend who can put it in and it wouldn't cost me more than 2.5k... sure beats 4500$ and I get a new block, pistons, rods, etc.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:20 AM   #13
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Why are you using the Blue, could have sworn Subaru said not to!
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elitescouter View Post
So putting in a new block would fix this? I honestly can't pay $4500 just for forged pistons and couple of gaskets. New block is 2k shipped, I have a friend who can put it in and it wouldn't cost me more than 2.5k... sure beats 4500$ and I get a new block, pistons, rods, etc.

Think about it real hard. Spend the little extra to do it right. It might cost you more in the end. 2k for a block and 500 for forged pistons. 300+awhp isn't a crazy figure, but it still falls under the "not IF your engine will go, but WHEN" parameters.

Make absolute sure that who ever is doing the work does it well. Not just everyone can build a motor right.

Good luck with your build man. I too am waiting for the WHEN.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:28 AM   #15
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Man search hiis threads... This problem goes back to last year along with a load of other problems. Mbc and the bov probably shouldn't be on there op.....
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:31 AM   #16
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If you're going to just throw in another stock block I'd at least figure out why this happened in the first place. Do you have a good tune (verify with a wideband)? Using the right oil? Maybe you're beating on the car a little too hard.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elitescouter View Post
So putting in a new block would fix this? I honestly can't pay $4500 just for forged pistons and couple of gaskets. New block is 2k shipped, I have a friend who can put it in and it wouldn't cost me more than 2.5k... sure beats 4500$ and I get a new block, pistons, rods, etc.
Most of that $4500 is labor
You can get a new stock shortblock for about $1600, pistons for about $400, gaskets for about $200. New timing belt, idlers and water pump for another few hundred...you're looking at under $3k for the whole thing, including a new block.

If you reuse your block, you can get it bored/honed, new bearings, pistons, timing belt, idlers, etc for under $2k.

You do not want another OEM block though, there is ZERO reason to stay with OEM pistons at this point, they are the weak link by far, and are the reason you're in your current situation.
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:45 AM   #18
elitescouter
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Most of that $4500 is labor
You can get a new stock shortblock for about $1600, pistons for about $400, gaskets for about $200. New timing belt, idlers and water pump for another few hundred...you're looking at under $3k for the whole thing, including a new block.

If you reuse your block, you can get it bored/honed, new bearings, pistons, timing belt, idlers, etc for under $2k.

You do not want another OEM block though, there is ZERO reason to stay with OEM pistons at this point, they are the weak link by far, and are the reason you're in your current situation.
I just talked to a friend last night about my situation. He told me I would be lucky to get 30k miles out of the forged pistons.

I don't want anything crazy right now. This is my daily driver. Yes I drive my car pretty hard but right now I'm not looking for more power.

I am going to have them print out an estimate because $4500 is too much for me at the moment. The $4500 is with my block, its not a new block so yeah.
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:53 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by elitescouter View Post
I just talked to a friend last night about my situation. He told me I would be lucky to get 30k miles out of the forged pistons.

I don't want anything crazy right now. This is my daily driver. Yes I drive my car pretty hard but right now I'm not looking for more power.

I am going to have them print out an estimate because $4500 is too much for me at the moment. The $4500 is with my block, its not a new block so yeah.
30k is bull****. Find a new friend.
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:00 PM   #20
elitescouter
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30k is bull****. Find a new friend.
Hahahah thanks
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:02 PM   #21
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30k out of forged pistons... That figure is a bit exagurated... But all you have to do is take out the weak link, which are the pistons. That's $1600 for a new block, plus another $400 for forged pistons. And you can get everything put together for around $2500, vs $4500. That's a big difference
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:26 PM   #22
elitescouter
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30k out of forged pistons... That figure is a bit exagurated... But all you have to do is take out the weak link, which are the pistons. That's $1600 for a new block, plus another $400 for forged pistons. And you can get everything put together for around $2500, vs $4500. That's a big difference
Well dam.. I might just have to drive down to cali to get that done =)

I am going to have the estimate printed out to see everything and why it's so expensive.
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:31 PM   #23
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30k on forged pistons is a figure for cars with VERY high horsepower applications. Its because no one runs stock turbo/tune with forged pistons. If someone were to and the block was built correctly it will last much longer than stock.
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:56 PM   #24
elitescouter
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Originally Posted by happs subi View Post
30k out of forged pistons... That figure is a bit exagurated... But all you have to do is take out the weak link, which are the pistons. That's $1600 for a new block, plus another $400 for forged pistons. And you can get everything put together for around $2500, vs $4500. That's a big difference
I went back there today to get another estimate. I guess the labor is like 2k, lol. They say the car would need to be at the shop for 6 days. I am running out of options. I am even thinking of doing the job my self, just have to get the right tools. The way they explained it, it makes it sound as they are the only shop that does it perfectly and it takes rocket science to do it. They told me not to buy an assembled block because the person probably didn't do it right.
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:12 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by elitescouter View Post
I went back there today to get another estimate. I guess the labor is like 2k, lol. They say the car would need to be at the shop for 6 days. I am running out of options. I am even thinking of doing the job my self, just have to get the right tools. The way they explained it, it makes it sound as they are the only shop that does it perfectly and it takes rocket science to do it. They told me not to buy an assembled block because the person probably didn't do it right.

if you buy an oem block guess who assembles it

and swapping out your pistons is actually much easier than you think. if you look in the built motor forum stickies, they show a few project builds and how-to's

although, you will need time, space, and the right tools.
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