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Old 04-06-2010, 01:43 AM   #1
rrsettgast
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Default SMS/EQ Tuning GC8 Race Car (Target: 2800 lbs & 400+ WHP)

Hello all,
Welcome to the SMS/Equilibrium Tuning GC8 Race Car Thread.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Post #2: The story
Post #6: Checking out the car...and writing a big check
Post #7: The Arrival
Post #8: Fun with Brake Lines
Post #12: Junkyard Dog #1
Post #13: Steering Column Fun #1
Post #15: Fun with Brake Lines #2
Post #17: Engine Build Part 1
Post #18: Engine Build Part 2: Ring Clearance and Crank/Rod assembly
Post #22: Engine Build Part 3: Shortblock Assembly
Post #23: Engine Build Part 3: Shortblock Assembly (cont.)
Post #24: Engine Build Part 4: Attaching the heads
Post #25: Engine Build Part 4b: Cams and Setting Valve Lash
Post #26: Engine Build Part 5: Finishing the heads, and Attaching engine hardware
Post #35: Bought a Seat
Post #36: Kartboy Parts Have Arrived!
Post #37: Suspension Teaser
Post #38: Engine Build Part 6: Almost Done! + Clean up of Brake Lines
Post #40: Engine Build Part 6b: Redo of the Cam caps
Post #41: Engine Build Part 7: Install of Killer B oil pickup and pan
Post #42: Some parts arrive (DBA rotors and ACT clutch)
Post #58: Installing the Timing Belt
Post #64: AST 5200's Arrive
Post #70: Powerflex Bushings Arrive
Post #78: Putting in the flywheel and clutch
Post #79: Dropped the Engine In
Post #80: Driveline installed
Post #86: GD sway bar in a GC chassis
Post #94: Mishimoto GC Radiator, Flex-a-lite fans, 08 STI TMIC Install
Post #105: Radiator overflow lines, Fan wiring...and Engine Primed
Post #107: Engine Starts!
Post #111: Brembo Brake Install
Post #116: Steering linkage fix







MAIN SPONSOR

EQ Tuning is providing:
  • Everything power related
    • Engine Build
    • Custom Turbo setup
    • Custom FMIC
    • Oil-cooler setup
    • First rate tuning services
    • General knowledge and expertise on all things Subaru
  • A home for the car!!!

SPONSORS

  • PSI are my suspension guru's for this build. They have sold me my AST 5200's and will be tuning and revalving the shocks as we go.


Brian at PowerflexUSA is providing:

I am using the following Kartboy Products

Chris at Killer B Motorsport is providing:

The TiC guys have have been my source for various things...but generally they are just really great vendors who are always really helpful...and they send you candy with your parts! On this car, the following products have been purchased from them...



Myles at Racecomp is providing:
THE PLAN
THE CHASSISENGINE & POWER
  • EJ257 (2005 STI) 2.5L Engine
  • EQ Tuning Built Block
    • CP 100mm Forged Pistons, pins, rings
    • ACL Race Series Bearings
    • Brian Crower CamShafts STi Stage - 272 Spec
    • Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium Retainer Kit
    • Manley I-Beam Connecting Rods
    • ARP headstuds
    • 2008 STI Oil Pump
    • Magnafluxed Crank
  • EQ Tuning Stage 2 Heads:
    • Precision Resurfacing
    • Precision 5-Angle Valve Job
  • EQ Tuning Custom Oil Cooler
  • Canton Racing 2QT Accusump
  • Radiator (specifics undecided)
  • GT35R Twin Scroll Turbo
  • EQ Tuning twin scroll kit
    • EQ Tuning twin scroll headers
    • EQ Tuning twin scroll up-pipe
    • EQ Tuning rotated down-pipe
  • EQ Tuning rotated Front Mount Intercooler
  • Dual wastegates (specifics undecided)
  • Intake manifold (specifics undecided)
  • EQ Tuning TGV deletes
  • Boost Control (specifics undecided)
  • BOV (specifics undecided)
  • turbo inlet pipe (specifics undecided)
  • Intake (specifics undecided)
  • EQ Tuning Custom Exhaust
FUEL, TUNING, & ELECTRICAL:
  • E85!!!
  • Equilibrium Tuning…tune…err…was that redundant?
  • Walbro 255 or Bosch Fuel Pump + custom inline pump and surge tank setup.
  • Fuel Rails (specifics undecided)
  • >1600cc top-feed injectors
TRANSMISSION & DRIVETRAIN
  • STI 6-Speed Transmission, Driveshaft, Rear Differential, Axles, Knuckles and Hubs
  • Clutch (specifics undecided)
  • Flywheel (specifics undecided)
SUSPENSION, BRAKES, WHEELS & TIRES
  • AST 5200's from Performace Shock
  • Racecomp Engineering Swaybars and Kartboy Endlinks
  • STI Aluminum Control Arms, Lateral Links, Trailing Arms
  • PowerFlex Bushings
  • Stock Brembo Calipers
  • DBA 4000 series rotors
  • PFC pads?? Hawk pads???
  • (17 or 18)x8.5'ish Wheels (specifics undecided)
  • 235-245'ish Tires (specifics undecided)
INTERIOR & SAFTEY
  • SPARCO PRO-ADV
  • racing harnesses (specifics undecided)
  • steering wheel (specifics undecided)
EXTERIOR
  • RS v6 front bumper
  • STI front lip
  • Clear OEM style headlights & corner lights
  • Seibon carbon fiber OEM style hood
  • 22b replica hood vents
  • JDM RS side skirts
  • RS rear bumper
  • APR Formula GT3 mirrors
  • APR GTC-200 dry carbon adjustable wing
  • front splitter of some sort
WEIGHT REDUCTION
  • Interior completely removed
  • All sound deadening material removed
  • Wiring harness stripped, 80% of wires removed
  • Spare tire tub cut out and removed. Replaced with aluminum sheet.
  • Rear deck lid cut out and removed
  • JDM front bumper beam
  • JDM rear bumper beam
  • Braille B106C carbon fiber battery
  • Seibon carbon fiber hood
  • APR carbon fiber GT3 mirrors
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Last edited by rrsettgast; 03-19-2011 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:43 AM   #2
rrsettgast
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2009 WRX Wagon
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Default Story

Hi all.
I have been a Subaru guy for quite some time. I bought my 99RS after discovering nasioc back in 1999. So when I bought my new car, a 2009 WRX, I decided that I would build up my beloved RS into a track car. So I had bought a donor, started stripping it down, started a thread. So I got pretty far along...completely stripped down the donor, and cleaned out the engine bay and all wiring out of the RS. Then one day I saw that Ben was selling his GC Racecar project that I had been following. This was shaping up to be an awesome build...so I am going to finish it!

Last edited by rrsettgast; 03-22-2011 at 02:35 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:45 AM   #3
rrsettgast
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Default Chassis Prep Highlights

Removing the sound deadening material:

dry ice

Cleaning interior down to bare metal:

interior cleaning 1
interior cleaning 2

Cage and Seam Welding!!!
From the Front:


From the Trunk:


From the Side:


Front Strut Mount:


Seam Welding



There are Tons more pictures in the original posts:
Cage/Seam Welding Post #1
Cage/Seam Welding Post #2
Cage/Seam Welding Post #3


Weight Reduction
There was 40 lbs of sound deadening material from the interior:

There was 50 lbs of metal cut out of the car:


The underside of the chassis was stripped as well:

Last edited by rrsettgast; 04-06-2010 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:46 AM   #4
rrsettgast
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Default Engine Build Highlights

more later....
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:48 AM   #5
rrsettgast
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Default Annoying details, and my solutions when doing a swap

plenty more later....
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:54 AM   #6
rrsettgast
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Default Checking out the car...and writing a big check!

I went down to Costa Mesa to meet up with Ben, and take a look at the car. Ben is a pretty cool guy, and Dave (the owner of the shop where the car has been sitting for the last few months) was pretty cool as well. It was a little bit hesitant about buying the car, but I was feeling much better about it after meeting these guys...OK...I was still freaking out about buying the car, but much less so after I met them

Here is what the car looked like when I first saw it:



Obviously, Ben had not had time to work on the car in quite some time! All the other body parts were laid out and waiting:



Despite the dust, the car was really just awesome. I did a quick check of the distance between suspension mounting points, checked the paint, and tried to organize all that stuff that was coming with the car. I was really impressed with the work that Ben and company had done on this car. Obviously I had photographic evidence of the hours put in, but it really hits home when you see it in person.

Here is Ben saying goodbye to the car...although I had a hunch his feelings of loss will soon be soothed when that check cleared

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:54 AM   #7
rrsettgast
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Default The Arrival

After paying Ben, I called the shipper that I had booked on uship.com and confirmed that he would be taking the car from Costa Mesa to Fairfield. I not so short distance of 400'ish miles! It only cost $300 to ship, which is why I am giving a shameless plug for the Steve at Rapid Transporter dezert720@yahoo.com. If you need to ship a car, this is the type of guy you want to do it!

Anyways....here are some pictures of the car arriving at EQ Tuning:







And here is its new home for the next couple of weeks before it gets put on a lift for the remainder of the build:

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:55 AM   #8
rrsettgast
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Default Fun with brake lines

So yesterday I tried to get the brake lines finished. When I got the car, the brake lines were "run" in the front, and through the cabin...but things didn't really line up. The lines in the engine compartment are 05STI lines, and I don't know what the lines running through the cabin lines are.

From far away, everything looks pretty good. You can see that the lines were run above the bar that is welded between the strut tower and the firewall, and end up in pretty much the right place....



pretty much....so here is the coupler that connects the ABS pump to the brake lines that run through the cabin. As you can see, things are close, but not quite. Now I have never...had never tried to bend brake lines before, and let me tell you, it is a pain in the rear if you don't know what you are doing, or if you don't have a good plan!

So I actually pushed the lines back into the firewall a bit, which is actually where they were supposed to be (in my little word anyways), and had some fun with the bending tool, and things magically seemed to work out.

Now, here is the part were I reiterate the "if you know what you are doing, and have a plan" theme. I did do a little bit of tweaking by hand (without the bending tool" and I think that I may have pinched a line a little bit in a moment of frustration/impatience. The suspect area is under the plastic line covers so it is hard to tell. Now I will probably have to rerun the cabin lines...oh well...my lesson learned? If you start to swear uncontrollably :bonk:, take a break and come back to it.

Next problem, you can see that the lines don't end up in the right place when it is time to plug into the master cylinder! The STI lines are too long, for the GC body! The GD lines assume that the MC sits a bit higher, or that the beam that I am pointing to sits a bit lower. Hmmm....

Poking around I noticed that the lines running down the firewall on the drivers side were...well...not run the way that I would have liked. They are supposed to tuck under the master cylinder, and here they are just hanging out in the engine bay, rubbing on the bolt that secures the clutch master:

So first thing I did was to remove the master cylinder, and get the lines running in the "right" place. Now here is where things get tricky. See that lip that the lines run across right as the should be tucking behind the MC? Well...that isn't there in the GD, and the GC factory lines have a super tight bend to go around this lip. No problem...just bend the lines in a really small radial bend...err...not really possible to do with the lines in place. I just did the best I could. Next was addressing the "too long" problem. I just bent the lines such that the 90 degree bends were a like 120 degrees, and the then the slack is taken up by the fact that the lines have to travel at a diagonal rather than straight up! In the picture, the lines are still vertical coming off the beam, but I ended up bending them forward so that they were at about a 45 degrees from vertical.


Pop the MC back into place...which is oddly hard, or oddly easy? If you are tying this at home and it doesn't want to go all the way back in, just take it out and start over. It seemed like about 1 in 5 times it just found its way into the right place.

Boy...I guess I should have taken a picture of the lines lining up with the MC...next time

Now retrospect is great. If I were to do this again I would try to make the GC lines work by modifying the line route near the ABS pump and where they come up from below the MC. Of course...it could be harder and I just don't know because I have not tried yet! I will have to try because the lines are kind of rubbing on the firewall lip by the MC, and the MC itself, and despite my liberal use of duct-tape, I don't think that this is a good thing:bonk:

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:01 AM   #9
Jaxx
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few thoughts
is a single wallburrito going to be enough
sti gas tank and not a fuel cell?
dccd controller?
drive by wire peddle adapter?
have you ordered a master cyl brace .. the perrin fits .. sorta

Last edited by Jaxx; 04-06-2010 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:06 PM   #10
rrsettgast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxx View Post
few thoughts
is a single wallburrito going to be enough
sti gas tank and not a fuel cell?
dccd controller?
drive by wire peddle adapter?
have you ordered a master cyl brace .. the perrin fits .. sorta
Hi Jaxx,
Thanks for the comments. To address your thoughts:

No a single walbro will not be nearly enough. I am going to do a fuel reservoir with another pump inline...so two pumps really.

STI gas tank is fine for now?...is there something that I should be concerned about if I have a surge tank inline?

yes...there is a dccd controller...it is no there isn't it??

No I haven't ordered a master cyl brace. I am going have EQ make me a custom one, or get one from TIC. Unfortunately I have had a bad experience with Perrin involving some fitment issues followed by some terrible customer service, so I will not be putting any Perrin products on any vehicles that I own.

Last edited by rrsettgast; 04-07-2010 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:43 PM   #11
Jaxx
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just thinking safety for a dedicated track car
and if the trunk floor is cut out, low mounting should be easy
-wonder if it would negate the need for the slosh tank?

ack as long as you are on it .. it makes a HUGE difference i was blown away how much the fire wall flexed
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:38 PM   #12
rrsettgast
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Default Junkyard Dog #1

Hi all,
Not much on the build in the last couple of weeks. I did not work on the car last weekend, as per my girlfriends request I did however make a trip to the junkyard for some needed GC parts. Here is the donor vehicle....a lovely 1995 impreza L...applause..

Unfortunately it was a rainy day, and it really started coming down about 15 minutes after I arrived at the yard. I did manage to get:
1) the passenger side door hardware
2) some bolts I was missing
3) the wiring for the headlights, blinkers, and tailights


I need to go back for GC brake lines for the engine bay, and cabin. I have decided that I am going to try to run GC lines...I just think that they will fit better. Here is what I am talking about...a picture of the lines in my RS lines as they run under the brake master cylinder:

and the way things worked out using the GD lines:

As you can see, it appears that the pre-bent CG lines should be much better for getting behind the MC. I am going to have to reroute them to match up where they connect with the MC, but at least they won't be rubbing!

This is all on the agenda for this weekend, along with installing brakes. I have decided to stick with the stock brembo's for now, with stoptech rotors and lines...and some sort of racing pad. It should be fine for a 2600 pound car

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:49 PM   #13
rrsettgast
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Default Fitting the 05 STI Steering Column into a 95L

Hello all,
I had an interesting day at the shop this last Saturday. I had very attainable goals of getting the door hardware that I got from the junkyard into the passenger door, bolt up the 95L fuel filler tube that I picked up as the 05 STI one didn't really fit, and giving the car the ability to steer. The door hardware was a snap...the filler tube was a snap...no pictures required. The steering on the other hand...well lets start at the beginning.

When I went to push the "lower bushing" into the steering column hole in the firewall I noticed that it didn't fit. after a while struggling with it, I finally realized that the hole in the firewall was just too small for the bushing? Actually they changed the way the steering column is secured into the firewall sometime between 1995 and 1999. I say 1999, because I have my 99RS in the shop for comparison, and the hole in the firewall on the 99 is much larger! The new system is a rubber bushing inside of a plastic grommet that attaches to the steering column...which then slides into the lower bushing in the firewall hole. The old system (95L) is just a single rubber bushing....and I didn't have one! So then I just ordered one, and figured that once I got the bushing all would be good...WRONG!!!

The 95L bushing obviously fits into the firewall, but it is actually too large to hold the 05STI steering column snugly! Crap, crap, and another few 4 letter words! OK fine...I can at least get the column in, and attach it to the coupler and steer the friggin car. I can secure it sometime before I have to drive it...wrong again. Things start to get funny right about here. I have 2 05 STI steering columns. One from my donor car for the RS swap, and one for the racecar that I bought with the car. Here is a picture of both:

The one on the left is the one that came with the car....ummm...it is longer than the other one...ummm....WTF?? That is just odd. Back to that in a minute. Fine then, I will just use the one that is the "right length" for now. I have an 05 STI coupler, and a modified one that was supposed to work for the swap. Here is how the column lines up with the unmodified coupler:


Good thing that the modified one is shorter! Just plop that baby in, and we are in business:

Oh...wait...it is too short! Niiiiice. Well, since the modified coupler was supposed to work with the longer column, I should just try mounting up the longer column. No pictures, but the longer column is actually too long for the short one. Things are getting better and better. So at this point I am ready to beat someone over the head with the steering column, and have no reservations about tearing down the longer one and seeing why the thing is longer! Pop off the c-clamp that holds the rod into the column pipe, and then it all becomes clear. The rod is actually two pieces, a smaller rod sliding inside a larger rod. It is secured by the larger diameter rod having been "pinched" so that it squeezes down on the smaller rod. So we decide to throw it in a press and see what happens:

The rod can actually adjust length pretty darn easily! Only thing is it appears to be easy to make it short, but making it longer would be a trick. So I can adjust this one to make it the correct length for the modified steering coupler, and at least I have steering for pushing the car around the shop! Now only if we hadn't destroyed the c-clamp when removing it....

Of course, at some point I have to figure out how we are going to secure the column in the firewall. Going back to this picture:

The pipe at A, has too small of a diameter to be secured by bushing C. Oh...and the end of the pipe needs to be extended about an inch to reach the firewall. Options for that are:
1) weld a larger diameter pipe to A to extend the column and fit snugly into bushing C
2) get a 95L column and figure out what the hell is going on
3) Cry like a little girl

Going with 1 and 2 here Went by the salvage yard and picked up that 95L steering column. Interesting thing is that the end of the column actually has a metal fitting for the bushing stamped into the column!!

That thing is actually part of the column, and ain't coming off! Well....looks like we are going to have to go with option 1, but at least I figured out what the hell was going on. More next week Oh...We are reassembling the engine, so just a teaser:


Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:44 PM   #14
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrsettgast View Post
Hi Jaxx,
Thanks for the comments. To address your thoughts:

No a single walbro will not be nearly enough. I am going to do a fuel reservoir with another pump inline...so two pumps really.

STI gas tank is fine for now?...is there something that I should be concerned about if I have a surge tank inline?
Very similar setup to what I have on my '04 STi. 255lph walbarrito, stock fuel lines from the tank to a 2L surge tank with a Fuel Lab 105gph exterior pump, -10 fuel line to the rails feeding 1600cc injectors.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:03 PM   #15
rrsettgast
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Default Fun with brake lines #2

Hi all,
So the engine reassembly didn't happen this last weekend due to an event that the local Subaru dealership in Fairfield was putting on. Chris, who I was going to assist with the reassembly, was at the event, so I was left to my own devices. So I did receive a new set of GC brake lines from my local dealer (Livermore Subaru)...which I bought with a fistful subaru bucks.

So as you may recall, I was unhappy with the way that the STI lines fit in the GC engine bay. Specifically how they didn't make the bend behind the brake booster without rubbing:


So I figured that I could make the GC lines fit a little better than that, since they are pre-bent for this firewall....all I have to do is "adjust" the lines at the ABS pump, and the master cylinder...no problem.

Well here is a top view of the STI lines into the ABS pump:


And here is how the GC lines match up...well not all the GC lines. I took off the rear lines before I snapped this shot.


So then...You have to get the two long lines into the holes at the edge of the top of the pump, and the shorter ones into the holes on the side of the pump. I noticed that the rear lines that came with the GC set were just not going to work out, so I actually used the STI rear lines...more on that later.

So here is where I typically get myself into trouble. This doesn't look like a hard problem. I didn't want to cut and flare, so I just figured that I would take up some of the extra line by routing a long path to the connection point. Of course I don't want to get too far away from the pump, as I am going to need the piping for the intake and FMIC to run right next to the pump. It really is tough to bend these lines while they are all bunched together so I ended up taking them out of their clips a couple of times.
Here is how the right side of the engine bay ended up looking:

...which really isn't better than it looked with the STI lines...it is actually much messier at the pump location. However the payoff is that the lines actually run along the firewall much better. The STI lines were run like so:

and the I got the GC lines to run like so:

And the big reason for all of this, the brake lines now tuck nicely behind the STI brake booster and the firewall with no rubbing!!:


One last thing is that one of the the master cylinder line inlet locations is different from the GC to the STI:


A little route modification and line bending and you are done:


So after all is done, I came to the conclusion that both options of STI lines, or GC lines are a real pain. I would say that if you know someone who has experience with cutting and flaring brake lines, run the GC's with the STI rear lines and pay someone to clean up the mess at the ABS pump. I would definitely NOT choose to do this again without cutting and flaring the lines. It is just too ugly. As a matter of fact, I am probably going to end up redoing this one more time to get it nice and clean...Just gotta wait for more Subaru bucks. Big day though...my first where I ended the day with less to do than when I started!!

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:38 PM   #16
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Looks great, I remember seeing this for sale, good luck with the project!
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:17 PM   #17
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Default Engine Build Part 1

Hi all,
We got started on the engine build this last weekend. The guys at EQ are guiding me through most of the work...which is an awesome experience for me considering that I spend the majority of my days driving a computer! The downside is that the build is going to go slow...but that is OK by me On the agenda was to check the clearances between the crank and main bearings, as well as the clearances between the rod and crank. I had also wanted to get the rings done, and get the short-block assembled, but I had a conference call for work, and I had to prep some parts for sale to a friend who was in dire need. Next week!

So here is my block all wrapped up after coming back from the machine shop after getting the cylinder walls bored out with the CNC machine:


And here it is waiting to be assembled:


Here are the balanced Manley I-beam rods and CP 100mm forged pistons back from the machine shop:


We are using ACL Race Series Bearings all around:


And here is the crank. The machine shop actually installs the main bearings and checks clearances and does any necessary work to get things to spec.


Now onto the work! We need to get the block bolts really clean, so the first thing is getting really familiar with the good ole parts cleaner. Once the bolts are clean, we put the main bearings in and assembled the block.


Now you would think that I would have thought to take a picture of us putting in the plastigauge, assembling the block, and torquing down the bolts...but no...I guess I was just concentrating on not messing it up! Basically you put a little plastic thread across each bearing, drop in the crank, and torque it down. From the amount that the plastic thread gets squished, you can get a measure of your clearance. Good news is that the main bearing/crank clearance were very good to go!

I also did the rod clearance with the crank...again...I gotta work on the pictures thing Same deal...install the bearings, lay some plastigauge, and torque down the rod to the crank. This was really hard to do without messing up the plastigauge! If you rotate the rod, the plastigauge just gets smeared and you have to start over! Yeah....It happened to me a couple of times!


All in all...a good day. All the clearances were spot on. Next week I will be machining the rings to spec, and assembling the short block!

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:30 PM   #18
rrsettgast
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Default Engine Build Part 2: Ring Clearance and Crank/Rod assembly

Hi all,
Yesterday I got to set the ring clearances and and assemble the crank and rods. Learning this stuff is really kind of fun, and being that I am a perfectionist (i.e. really slow), I get to do things multiple times until I get it right (i.e. I usually mess up the first time)! Here is what the rings look like out of the box:


So first thing is to place the rings in the cylinder take a gap measurement. The rings to be perfectly level, so I used the piston to make sure that they were properly aligned:

Then we can check the gap distance...the gaps are too tight out of the box:

So when the engine heats up, the ring will expand, and the gap will close. In this case it will close too soon, and cause a hoop stress in the ring...which is bad. So I need to grind them down a bit....we are talking ranges of 0.0005". It is a process of grinding the ring, checking gap, grinding again...checking again. Oh and if you grind too much then the ring is useless and you have to start over with a new one! Oh, and you have to make sure that when the ring closes the gap closes flush, so you have to make sure that you don't introduce an angle. Here is the grinding tool:


Yes...I did mess up the first couple that I did. But I got the hang of it...and then I messed up the last one too because I got all cocky Here is a ring after it has been fitted:

There is the top ring, and the 2nd ring. The 2nd rings is REALLY soft, so it is easy to mess up. Here is what the 2nd ring looks like:


So I did all the rings and made sure to keep them separate as they are fitted to each cylinder. The next step is to assemble the rods onto the crank. Last time I checked the clearances on the rods, so I just have to bolt them up. Just apply assembly lube to the bearings like so:


and then bolt them to the crank:


A little note here about Manley I-beam rods. First of all they do look awesome, but they are kind of a pain to use. For starters they it is really hard to separate the rods. You actually have to tap on the bolts with a hammer to get the rod head off, which is a little bit uncomfortable...but whatever. Second the bolts are ARP bolts, and require that you measure the elongation of the bolt, not just the torque! Not that hard to do since both ends of the bolt are exposed once you get them in there, but a little weird! The bolt elongation is 0.006", which is really kind of difficult to get a good measurement from the top of the bolt to the tip.

I wanted to get the short block together but I had a little issue with my daily driver. I had been hearing a little bit of clunking out of the rear end of the car, so I had the guys throw it up on a lift and found that:
1) when I had the car corner-balanced, the guy removed all the pre-load from the spring.
2) I had bent the stock endlinks:

Looks like I better give Tom at Kartboy a call!!

Next week, the shortblock gets put together...and perhaps get to work on the heads!

Last edited by rrsettgast; 05-18-2010 at 01:00 AM.
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Old 05-09-2010, 07:52 PM   #19
IGSDann
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Nasty looking build dude. I envy your budget.
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:15 AM   #20
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Woah an EQ track car? I can only imagine how well this will be put togethor. The EQ guys are awesome.
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:40 AM   #21
subaruwrx0_0
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Are you keeping those rims? I'll take them off your hands Let me know.

Great build btw, and Ed is a great guy!
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:45 AM   #22
rrsettgast
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Default Engine Build Part 3: Shortblock Assembly

Hi all,
So this last weekend, I set out to get the short-block assembled. However, because I want to be pretty careful, I picked up a stretch gauge to measure the stretch (was that redundant?) of the arp bolts on the Manley I-beam rods. Yes...I know...the torque should be fine, but what can I say??? I would worry about it if I didn't do this the "recommended" way.

So here is the stretch gauge on one of the rods after stretch had been set:

You know...in retrospect, I could have been OK with the torque specs...but not quite there. The stretch gauge is a different type of reading, and is considered more reliable...so why not?

So do that 8 times, and then I lubed the main bearings, and we dropped the crank into half of the block (2 people required...one to hold the rods in the right place, the other to position the crank):


Then we applied the RTV silicone to one half of the block in preparation to seal the two halves together:


Carefully align the other half of the block onto the prepped half...not as easy as it sounds. Then I tightened the main bolts that holds the block together (I forgot the name for them??) by hand so as not to strip anything:


Then torque them down, which is a requires that the bolts be tightened in a specific pattern at 3 different torque levels...and then we are on to the next step:

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Old 05-18-2010, 01:45 AM   #23
rrsettgast
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Default Engine Build Part 3: Shortblock Assembly

Now for the pistons. First we have to get the rings on the pistons, and align them properly. The gaps all have to be in the right place relative to each other, and the oil scraper rings are kind of a pain:


Once the rings are in place, we oil up the cylinder, and piston...and place it into the ring compressor and align it with the cyliner:

Give the piston a good whack, and it scoots into its new home. Now we just push the piston down so that we can bolt the piston to the rod using the the "pin":


Here is the access port to insert the pin. You have to have the crank and the piston in the right place before you try anything:

...actually I think this was taken after I got the pin in there...but you get the point. Once the piston and rod are aligned, just push the lubed pin in, and insert the pin ring using needle nose pliers.

Important note here. There are two rings that hold the pin in...one on each side. Obviously you want to put the one that you can't reach into the piston before you put the piston into the cylinder.

Three more times and we are pretty much there:


Fit the crank gasket...or whatever it is called...

This requires a bit of hammering with a pipe that is fitted to the gasket size.

Bolt it onto the engine stand...check how much torque is required to turn the crank is < 7 ft-lbf...

...and we are ready for next week!!

Thanks to Ed and Chris at EQ for showing me how to do all this stuff, and for doing the stuff that I wasn't able to.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:46 AM   #24
rrsettgast
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Default Engine Build Part 4: Attaching the heads

Hi All,
It has been a couple weeks since my last update...I had forgot to bring my camera last weekend, so I had to use the shops camera...and then I forgot to download the pictures on to my computer, so I had to wait until this weekend to get the pictures. Anyways, here is a description of getting the heads bolted to the short-block.

So first thing to do is to use a thread chaser to clean out the head-stud bolt holes:


We would get some metal shavings that came out on the chaser that might interfere with the head-studs:


So after all 12 holes are chased and cleaned, we installed the ARP head-studs:


Just coat each bolt up with assembly lube, or thread sealant:


And screw it by hand...and just give it a little torque at the end. After 6 of em, this is what you have on one side:

Do the other side and we are ready to bolt on the heads. Here they are waiting just after unwrapping them:


Place the head gasket:


And slide the head into place:


No pictures of torquing down the blots, but I bet you can imagine what that looks like! Like most things when assembling an engine, there is a specified pattern you have to adhere to when bolting down the heads. Rotate the block on the stand, do the other side...and you are ready to set the valve lashes!

Well...the valve lashes were actually set last week as well, but it is late so I will post up those pictures tomorrow.
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Old 06-03-2010, 01:00 AM   #25
rrsettgast
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Default Engine Build Part 4b: Cams and Setting Valve Lash

Hi all,
Finishing up the activities from the last couple of weekend!

First thing was to get set the valve lash. We could have done this when the heads were off the engine, but I was all motivated to get the heads bolted up from last time. Either way, it is about the same amount of work!

So first thing is to get my nice shiny new BC cams out of the boxes and prepped....

Out of the boxes....check


You have to make sure to remove the little screws in the ends of the intake cams in order for the avcs to work. If you forget, then you have to do it in the engine bay...which would suck pretty bad. If you have an 08+ STI, then you have avcs on the exhaust cams as well! Since we are building up an 05 STI engine, we only have the intake cams to worry about.

Obviously we applied a liberal amount of assembly lube to all surfaces on the cam that touch any surface on the heads as well.

Next we got some valve buckets ready to go. EQ keeps a set (8) of brand new buckets of the 475 variety for the initial check. Basically the number indicates how thick the bucket is between the valve and the cam lobe. If you know install a bunch of 475's and measure the valve lash, you can quickly calculate the actual number that you need to meet you desired lash. In this case the intake lash was 0.006" and the exhaust lash was 0.008". Here is a picture of some buckets in case you were wondering what they looked like:


Oh...and a little note, since we are using an aftermarket cam with a longer duration and greater lift, it is a good idea to use appropriate valve springs and retainers that are designed appropriately. Here is a close up of the BC ones that we used:


So then we just oil up the buckets, and start popping them on. Here is the first one on:


Now once you have all the buckets on one side, then you have to install the cams...torque to spec and take your valve lash measurements. Here is a picture of the cams installed on one side:


Cams are rotated such that the lobe points away from the valve, thus giving the biggest gap between the cam and the bucket...this is your "lash". Of course, you have to rotate the cam for each pair of valves. Here is a picture of the measurement on one of the exhaust valves:

So that is a lash of 0.019", which is way too much...but we expected that since we are using a small bucket size. We need a lash of 0.008", so we need a bucket that is 0.011" thicker...since the bucket sizes are in metric (475 means 4.75 mm), a simple conversion gives us a thickness of 0.279mm (0.011 x 25.4 = 0.279). Thus the target bucket size is 503 ( 4.75 + 0.279 = 5.03). Yes, just converting the target lash to metric would have been a lot easier! Just to that 8 times, locate the buckets that you need, remove the cams...remove the test buckets...drop them in the right buckets...install cams to torque spec...remeasure the lash...and you should be done! Here is one side done...


And we are ready for the next step!!
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