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Old 04-18-2010, 10:51 AM   #1
iluvdrt
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Location: DRTY Autosports Denver, Co
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2012 outback 2.5
sky blue

Default 05 WRX trans-->98 LGT wagon 5 spd conversion

I posted this in the Legacy forum, but thought it would be nice to share here as well.

Well I am starting my 5 speed swap on Monday after my auto-x. I will try to document everything here and make things comprehensive for future swappers. Hopefully I have everything. The only thing I am not sure about is which drive shaft to use. I have the auto drive shaft that is on it, and I also have the sedan manual drive shaft.

I bought the swap from millennium auto on here. It was $1800 and included almost every thing minus the trans harness, sensors, pitchmount/bracket, and slave cyl. I found a donor 02 wrx and got all that stuff from it.

I will have pics of the goodies up soon.

Here is a pic of the wagon:
Its mods are:
3 angle valve grind
twe spring and retainers
new HG's
accel 8mm wires
NGK iridium plugs
Perrin LW pulley
Whiteline lateral links
04 Pink STi struts w/ black springs
some JDM goodness
215/50/16 BFG G-force sport A/S tires
05 OBS Enkei wheels
07 WRX 4 pot front brakes
07 WRX 2 pot rear brakes w/ hub conversion
Goodridge SS lines
2.5" straight pipe exhaust (no cats)

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Last edited by iluvdrt; 04-18-2010 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:52 AM   #2
iluvdrt
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Here are the goods.

2005 wrx trans rebuilt by Millenium.
2005 rear diff
pedals and lots of other stuff.







and the shop

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Old 04-18-2010, 10:53 AM   #3
iluvdrt
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Made some nice progress this weekend.

5 spd trans is in. Removed the auto and flex plate from the engine. Installed new 2 peice flywheel with exedy stage 2 clutch.

The only problem with using the 05 trans is the bell housing had 6 bolts (vs 4 from the 98). I took a 12mm bolt and made a 4" long stud. I then tapped the lower starter hole in the 5 spd trans with a 12mm 1.5 tap. I didn't tap all the way through the trans so my stud would have a stopping point. Then, I inserted the stud with some loctite on it into the trans. I had to drill the hole in the starter a little larger to fit over the stud, but everything is good now. Some people drill and tap the block, but I thought this was easier and since the auto is set up this way, it is proven to work.

The pedals were a PITA. You have to remove pretty much everything from under the dash. I didn't disconnect anything, but just unbolted and tied up out of the way. The new pedal box is a lot bigger then just the old brake pedal. The clutch portion of the box fits through the holes in the firewall where that black plug is next to the brake master cyl. The clutch master cyl bolts to that. replace all electrical stuff in a new home under the dash.

Manual trans went in like butter. SOO much more room under the car now. The auto is gigantic and I should be saving about 100-150 lbs from this swap as well. The bolt holes for the x member are by the control arm bracket. They had rubber plugs in them. These are a fine thread. 12x1.75. I used 30mm long bolts with a large washer on them. The two holes f or the shifter assy are also plugged up by where the shifter is. They are standard 8mm x 1.50 IIRC.

I used sedan axles. The 05 axles have exciter rings on them for the ABS. Our cars have a diff set up. These rings on the axle have to be removed. A punch and hammer makes quick work of that though. The reinsert into the car as normal.

The wiring was a little tricky. The 4 eat has 100x87597657 wires going to it. You only need 4. 2 for reverse, and 2 for neutral safety. There are also 2 wires that come off of the little switch on the shifter that allow you to get your keys out and I have heard turn on the fuel pump.

The 4 wires you need come off of the trans inhibitor switch selector harness. I used the factory pig tail tail and cut all the wires off of it except the 4 I need. This makes for a cleaner install and you can still unplug the trans from the harness. The pin numbers are 9-12 (9, 10, 11, 12) on the harness side of that plug.

9, and 10 are for the reverse lights. Plug them into the 5 spd reverse switch on the trans. It is the white switch at the back of the trans. There is a black switch on the trans as well, but we dont need it. IDK what it does. Mine must be bad because even w/ a mutimeter I couldnt get continuity out of it. I let it hang.

11 and 12 are for the Neutral Safety switch. I plugged them into the clutch pedal switch. There are 2 switches on the clutch pedal. The bottom switch is for cruise control dis engagement. You dont need to use that one. The top one is the NS switch. When you puch the clutch pedal down it closes the switch and completes the circut. Clutch is out circut is open and cruise works.

Use your old vehicle speed sensor. The newer VSS's have 3 prongs. Ours only have 2. They look diff but are a direct swap. You will have to extend the harness a bit to make it reach. Also, there is a little metal peice that goes inside of the VSS. Ensure this swaps over with the sensor. It falls out of the switch very easy.

My auto driveshaft is too short and so was the sedan 5 spd drive shaft. I am thinking I need a wagon drive shaft, or have mine extended. Ill post pics in a minute.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:53 AM   #4
iluvdrt
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Here is the bolt I made into a stud for the starter.



Trans is in



This is the bolt hole by the control arm for the x member



Here is wiring harness part you use. The 4 wires come from this plug.



The black wires are the NS switch. I routed them through the speedo cable hole to the pedal.



Here is the NS switch on the clutch pedal. It is the black wires with elec tape.



Here is the speed sensor switched over from the auto.



The little black switch on the shifter is what you need to splice together. This lets your key out. I have heard it also closes the relay for your fuel pump.

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Old 04-18-2010, 10:54 AM   #5
iluvdrt
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Here is the pedals w/ everything tucked up



interior shots:





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Old 04-18-2010, 10:57 AM   #6
iluvdrt
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Here is the wiring schematic from the FSM. I have added notes.



I still have to find a drive shaft. The sedans is WAY to short and my old auto is just slightly to short. I am going to try and get a bugeye 5 spd wagon shaft and see if that fits.

The starter is not in yet because my slave cyl is on order. When it gets here I'll finish installing the small bits and hopefully then I'll be done.

I did not loose ABS, I have no cel, and AFAIK my cruise still works.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:15 PM   #7
fearnoevo11
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looks good jason seems like a major pain but i deff wanna to this swap in the 2.5i
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:18 PM   #8
iluvdrt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fearnoevo11 View Post
looks good jason seems like a major pain but i deff wanna to this swap in the 2.5i
We can discuss it through PM or you can stop by.
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:39 AM   #9
iluvdrt
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OK so updates:


Got the slave cyl installed. I had to use a hard line because noone sells a metric banjo bolt. I hope it doesnt break. Ill try to get a nice stainless line soon. I bled the clutch with a one man bleeder. It was SOOO easy and only took a few minutes. I highly rec getting one. It was $6 at Napa.



You just fill up the clutch master cyl, break the bleeder loose, and pump the pedal until no more air bubbles are in the clear line. Leave the pedal down, close the bleeder screw and pump it up. Done. Takes 5 min.

Installed the starter. The homemade stud worked like a champ.
I finished installing the intake plumbing and pitchmount assy as well. The top of the car is DONE.

I started her up and I did get a CEL. P1702. Basically it wants to know where the auto is. I told it it was on a pallett, but it didnt listen. I got the FSM out and with a little research found out that all ECM's for auto's and sticks are the same. There is an identifier pin you have to have to ground out to tell the car it is no longer and auto. Ill do that tonight and she should be all ready for the driveshaft to get here.
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