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Old 04-27-2010, 05:25 AM   #1
BlueSTI4Me
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Default Open Trailers-What do you use

Need recommendations for an open trailer to haul car. Recommendations from experienced racers? Budget doesn't allow for a enclosed trailer at this time. Prefer 18 footer. Please show or indicate ramp options/modifications for lowered car loading/unloading. Thanks for any input.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:09 AM   #2
boost junkie
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I have an 18 ft. Dively open deck with 4 wheel brakes. It comes with a lot of standard features and it's cheap. I've been thinking about selling it for an enclosed but I'll probably end up keeping it for another year until the cash flow allows for it.

http://www.econotrailer.com/
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:11 AM   #3
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I need a new trailer
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:39 AM   #4
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i have an open deck Eagle trailer that is 20ft long, the only problem is the door hit drivers fender when trying to get out. So i had the fender custumized to fold open like a book so i can pull car on an not have to worry about staying skinny enough to get out of the car with out dukes of hazard style. I bought slightly used from dealer for $2000 they normallly go for around 3500-5000. dealer repo from another dealer. and it had been used as there where oil drip on trailer.
Matt
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:39 PM   #5
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Full deck trailer (wood okay, particularily if you keep it covered with a tarp when not using) allows you to jack the car at any point when on the trailer which can be handy at times. Plus allows you to use the trailer for other uses.
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02WRX2.5 View Post
i have an open deck Eagle trailer that is 20ft long, the only problem is the door hit drivers fender when trying to get out. <snip>
Matt
I put a 2x6 down for the left side wheels. This raises the side of the car just enough for the door to open.
Richard
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:37 PM   #7
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Good information here. Appreciate those of you who have contributed. Would like to see more links to good trailers that those of you have had experience with owning, loading, unloading and towing.

Should one consider purchasing an anti-swaybar for the hitch? Two wheel brakes versus 4-wheel brakes, anything to consider there? What about trailer brake controllers.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:09 PM   #8
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I had a tilt deck trailer when I use to race my Firebird. Did nto have to worry about a lowered car drove right up. Had to invest in a winch just in case I broke down.

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Old 04-28-2010, 01:42 AM   #9
02WRX2.5
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No need for anti sway bars your load shouldn't be high enough. i would go with four wheel brakes as it takes alot away from tow rig, and some states require four brakes. Controllers i would go with one that self adjust to the load, spend a little more. Its a pain when you cruise down the road and controller is out of adjustment, and you lock up your tires and flat spot them. Another thing to consider is if your car is low, you should get trailer with drop axles to prevent steep incline on and off.
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02WRX2.5 View Post
No need for anti sway bars your load shouldn't be high enough. i would go with four wheel brakes as it takes alot away from tow rig, and some states require four brakes. Controllers i would go with one that self adjust to the load, spend a little more. Its a pain when you cruise down the road and controller is out of adjustment, and you lock up your tires and flat spot them. Another thing to consider is if your car is low, you should get trailer with drop axles to prevent steep incline on and off.
Matt
You can always just use a 2x4 on each side, and lay them in front on the trailer ramps.

I would recommend load leveling bars. They were a big help when I would tow a 20 foot enclosed with a 1500 suburban
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Old 04-28-2010, 04:00 AM   #11
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I have a 16' open trailer with a full wood deck. It's a great setup for hauling the car or just about anything else I need to move. Looking back I wish I would have gotten one with a rear ramp to lower the loading height for the car. My car is very low and the splitter makes it difficult to get the car on even with 8' ramps and ramp extenders. With a regular or slightly lowered bumper height I wouldn't have a problem.

I don't use an anti-sway bar or load leveling bars and it tows great. One trick with that is to get the load centered correctly so you have approximately 10% of the weight of the car and the trailer on the ball. With heavier trailers and loads the leveling bars become required. With the 4000 to 5000 pounds that your 18' trailer and car will weigh you won't need them.

4 wheel electronic brakes and a proportional controller are the way to go. I have towed trailers without their own brakes, with on/off style controllers, and proportional controllers and the proportional controller is the best thing since sliced bread. Take the time to set it up correctly and you won't have any problems with it.
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Old 04-28-2010, 06:06 AM   #12
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First question. What are you towing with? That might point you towards what you need as far as keeping the weight down, or not. I have an 18' dove tail, full deck, Anderson trailer. Bought it used from a Spec Miata guy for $1500. Has a removable driver side fender so I can open the door with plenty of clearance. Had the bearings repacked, got some new tires, brakes redone, and it works great. I use Race Ramps to get the car on the trailer, and a Tekonsha P3 brake controller. Setup is great and my Titan tows it without much effort. I also agree that getting the weight centered is key. I've even noticed the trailer being slightly less stable when I've placed to car too far right or left.

http://www.tekonsha.com/product/deta...90195&cat=1435

http://www.raceramps.com/trailerramps.html

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Old 04-28-2010, 07:37 AM   #13
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if your on a budget uhaul is always an option...they work great.
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misterwaterfallin View Post
You can always just use a 2x4 on each side, and lay them in front on the trailer ramps.

I would recommend load leveling bars. They were a big help when I would tow a 20 foot enclosed with a 1500 suburban
Yeah i have 6" drop axles so a 2x4 would not get me over the fenders. And with 2x6 4' ramps with the tilt and drop axles I still have to un clip front bumper to get on trailer. Yes with an enclosed depending on tow rig you should think about sways causeof the height of enclosed trailers. I had a 22' enclosed and did not need sways with my Tundra.
Matt
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:34 PM   #15
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I like the race ramps - but the price point is a bit high compared to 2x12's screwed together

Ray
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Old 04-28-2010, 07:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbahr View Post
I like the race ramps - but the price point is a bit high compared to 2x12's screwed together

Ray
I'm making 2x12 ramps now in anticipation of the loading issue. And think I may have a trailer. Will post images soon.
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QksilverRS View Post
if your on a budget uhaul is always an option...they work great.
Yes they do and eventually it will save your butt
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:14 PM   #18
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So picked up this used 18' full deck open trailer. Think it will work out A-ok.

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Old 04-29-2010, 11:47 PM   #19
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Very nice purchase the full deck is a great thing and it is now time to add a tire rack and box for the front.
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:34 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrice20 View Post
Very nice purchase the full deck is a great thing and it is now time to add a tire rack and box for the front.
Thanks and indeed, a front box is in the near future. This was a great CL find for me.
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Old 04-30-2010, 03:51 AM   #21
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I don't think your tow vehicle will get you there on time.
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:18 AM   #22
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Did you verify you're doors can open without hitting the fender? Nice find though.
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:19 AM   #23
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I have an 18 open trailer I use to tow my car. It has the problem aas mentioned before, the door hits the fender well. At first I would get out of the car by crawling through the backseat trunk entry hole, and coming out of the trunk, 2x6's work great for that, and you know exactly where to pull your car up on those.

My car is sort of low, and with a 6' ramp, it will not make it up, so I used 2x12's screwed together and made steps out of them. I put the contraption under each end of the ramp and drive my car up on it. It is not really neat, or fancy looking, but affordable and effective.

I have a cage on the front of my trailer that is great for tools, and am going to make a wheel rack to put over that, as soon as I get into a place big enough to have welding supplies again.
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Old 04-30-2010, 08:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedyHAM View Post
I don't think your tow vehicle will get you there on time.
Sellers picture & tractor......everyone has jokes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1c View Post
Did you verify you're doors can open without hitting the fender? Nice find though.
mav1c, I expect the door to hit. Have not loaded car, but will modify fender if needed. Previous owner bought to tow a WRX. I'll know more next week when I trial load.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:23 PM   #25
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My STI door would Just barely clear the fender with RCE black springs and Star Spec tires.
The Nittos are smaller and I dont think the door will clear the fender now.

My plan is to drive ahead just far enough to clear the fender, get out and push the car in place. the hard part will be getting the window up and the key out. I am sure there will be some colorful language involved.

I had the chance to buy the same trailer with removable fenders for the same price. Didnt think I needed the noise and trouble. Wish I had the noise and trouble now.
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