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Old 02-06-2013, 03:57 PM   #351
tomacGTi
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http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...nt-puller.html

I was chasing a possible balljoint issue as well. Now that TIC doesn't have an affordable option, one might have to get a bit creative.

As nice as the Snap-on tool is, it's a bit spendy for the home mechanic.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:09 PM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superorb View Post
^^ Be sure to soak the crap out of all the bolts/BJs with PB blaster or other penetrating spray.
CLR will also help melt rust.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:59 PM   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomacGTi View Post
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...nt-puller.html

I was chasing a possible balljoint issue as well. Now that TIC doesn't have an affordable option, one might have to get a bit creative.

As nice as the Snap-on tool is, it's a bit spendy for the home mechanic.
Wow, that's creative!

1ea Black Iron 1 1/2 pipe coupling
1ea Black Iron 1 to 1 bushing
1ea Black Iron 1 to 3/4 bushing
1ea 3/4x 3 grade 8 bolt and nut (fine threads are better but coarse will work)
2ea 3/4 heavy fender washer
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:39 PM   #354
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Genius. Wish I would have read this two months ago.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:37 AM   #355
limited#279
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Since this isn't being made any more and cuz I don't have a drill press or a tap set do you think a long open ended lug nut like this
Long Lightweight Racing Black 12x1.25 Thread Lug Nuts 20 Piece Set:Amazon:AutomotiveLong Lightweight Racing Black 12x1.25 Thread Lug Nuts 20 Piece Set:Amazon:Automotive
along with a long 12x1.5 bolt, a nut, couple washers and a lenght of tube get the job done?
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:03 AM   #356
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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there is the one I posted on this thread, comes with a huge square washer, $35 shipped on ebay IIRC, it worked great on my severely rusted ball joint.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 03-23-2013 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:51 PM   #357
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Can you still find one on ebay? I couldn't find one before.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:00 PM   #358
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The Snap-On tool ROCKS.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:44 AM   #359
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Can you still find one on ebay? I couldn't find one before.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181112109494...84.m1555.l2649




Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 03-29-2013 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:50 AM   #360
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Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
The Snap-On tool ROCKS.
Found the Snap-On too ! Looks nice.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 03-23-2013 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:33 AM   #361
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i'll loan my tic ball joint tool. pm me.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:26 PM   #362
henria86
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CHEAP Enough im buying one
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:42 PM   #363
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Just purchased one on eBay.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:49 PM   #364
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Just received the ebay kit today. Took me 15 minutes to remove the ball joint.




Last edited by txl146; 03-31-2013 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:36 PM   #365
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This thing could be made in about 15 minutes. I'll make one and post the pictures as to how to make your own. Really not much to it.
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:37 AM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Just received the ebay kit today. Took me 15 minutes to remove the ball joint.



Did you have to use penetrating oil and hammer the Knuckle to open the pinch slit?
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:22 PM   #367
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Question...gettin them out is all good, what's the easy way to get them in?
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:27 PM   #368
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Rust belt cars are a different story, so no it's not all good getting them out.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 04-06-2013 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:38 PM   #369
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Question...gettin them out is all good, what's the easy way to get them in?
Once the BJ is out of the knuckle, I use a wire brush that is slightly larger than the inside of the BJ mounting hole and put it on a cordless drill and run it in and out a bunch of times, spraying it out with carb cleaner every time. Once you've done this several times and have just about all the rust removed from the sides, use a sharp edged flat bladed screwdriver and scrape the rest of the crap out of the corner. Go around the circle about 10 times to make sure you have as much out as you can. Once you've finished, clean the entire knuckle (if it's off the car) in some solvent (I use G*S but hey, you didn't hear me say that because the tree huggers would be pissed) and blow or towel it dry.
Here's a little trick for you on it. Inspect the inside of the bore and see if it's smooth. The wire brush will remove a lot of crap but if there is scarring, it won't be smooth. If it's scarred up, take a brake cylinder hone, mount it in your cordless drill, spray it all with some PB, and run the hone in and out several times. It won't cut much, but it will remove a lot of burrs that may be there. You can do this about 3 times for about 45 seconds each, and at that point, I wouldn't do more, just to make sure it's still a tight fit.
Grab your BJ, cover it with anti seize, and with channellock pliers, lightly twist it into the socket in the knuckle. If you have a socket large enough to go over the outside, it's helpful. If not, use a plastic or lead hammer and LIGHTLY hammer around the edges and it will find it's way in.
Good luck.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #370
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^I wish I had read this before very detailed, thanks for posting. When I did this my main concerned was removing the darn ball joint, did not pay too much attention to getting it in.
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Old 05-17-2013, 12:48 PM   #371
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my thoughts on the TiC tool.

certainly does the job. pulled out both of my LBJs which had 92k miles of rusty mid-atlantic life. im certain i would have never got them out without this tool or one similar.

my only complaint about the TiC is the narrow width (about 10mm or 3/8") area used to hold the threaded shaft still while tightening the nut. the small area correlates to a small wrench (unless you have a large crescent, which i did not) so it was hard to hold the shaft still. i ended up using vice grips and a pipe on the handle for more control. using a bolt with a large head to put a big wrench or socket on would be better IMO.

but like i said, it got the job done. and i do not want to ever know what its like to do this without one.

i also was lucky enough to not shear off the pinch bolt in the knuckle. i removed it with an impact though and sprayed it down with PB blaster multiple times, i could see how it would be easier to shear it by hand. i ran a die down the very rusty bolt to clean it up, and i reassembled everything (bolts and LBJ) with very generous amounts of antiseize to make this much easier in the future.


for reinstallation, i sprayed out the hole may times with brake cleanerand wiped out any loose rust with my finger. i just hit the bottom of it with a hammer to get it in. it worked fine and didnt damage the threads cause i know how to use a hammer properly.

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Old 05-17-2013, 02:20 PM   #372
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Quote:
my only complaint about the TiC is the narrow width (about 10mm or 3/8") area used to hold the threaded shaft still while tightening the nut. the small area correlates to a small wrench (unless you have a large crescent, which i did not) so it was hard to hold the shaft still. i ended up using vice grips and a pipe on the handle for more control. using a bolt with a large head to put a big wrench or socket on would be better IMO.
A large bolt wouldn't work, because you need to be able to thread the nut on after placing the tube and washer. A hex that's small enough to clear the nut wouldn't be much better.

The best solution was the two big meaty flats which were intended to be used with a gigantic adjustable or some vice grips. You'll note that the threads are turned off in that area, which was done so you could distort the flats significantly (like with plier teeth) without preventing the nut from coming off. I chose those specifically to make it easy to find a useful tool to grab them in a typical home shop or garage - I figure just about everybody owns either an adjustable or a pair of vice grips.

You did exactly what the designer intended.
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:53 PM   #373
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you certainly can.

place pipe piece over BJ (im my case the boot would hold it in place)
place nut on bolt and thread it all the way onto bolt up to the head
use washer and thread nut/bolt combo onto ball joint.
hold head of bolt with a wrench or socket and tighten the nut down to pull the BJ out.

just my preference. but it still worked.

i believe the "ebay tool" variant of this uses that method. a big bolt with internal threads tapped into the end of it.
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:25 PM   #374
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Sniper, I have used your tool many times and it is great! Thanks for the great tool contribution. Got any more good tools?
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:52 PM   #375
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I don't like that method because if the ball joint threads are gnarly or the joint is very loose you won't be able to get in there to prevent the BJ from turning, in which case you wouldn't be able to use the tool. I also wanted to keep the rod short for both cost and convenience when being used with minimal clearance.

Thanks Blue!
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