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Old 04-05-2013, 11:11 PM   #12126
CGuffin
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Just a wheel with some magical sky effects
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:12 AM   #12127
flat4LGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platinlord View Post
Pure sex. 18x9?
18x9.5 +38
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:13 AM   #12128
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18x9.5 +38
Any more specs and a close up picture of the well (??)n with a cig in it?
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:40 AM   #12129
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Here's a close up of the side. No cigarettes though.


And a slightly angled shot down the side. Ignore how much the rear pokes out, I'm still waiting on the camber plates.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:45 AM   #12130
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Nice!!! Love it. Rota?
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:51 AM   #12131
flat4LGT
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Yeah. MXRs.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:56 AM   #12132
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Do you have them in 5x100`?
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:24 AM   #12133
flat4LGT
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Yessir. I got them from Wheeldude on closeout since they're moving shops/warehouses
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:32 AM   #12134
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New summer set up


You on coilovers? Looks good I like the stance
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:08 PM   #12135
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Originally Posted by m0nkey View Post
Rota Torque's 17x8 235/40/17

What suspension and any fender rolling? Looks awesome
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:06 PM   #12136
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Originally Posted by flat4LGT View Post
New summer set up
What all did you have to do to for those in there? I'm gonna be getting some 18x10 et30 svn-r's and I'm trying to get some ideas on how much roll/pull/camber I'm gonna have to do.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:51 PM   #12137
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:00 PM   #12138
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Originally Posted by flat4LGT View Post
Yeah. MXRs.
what size/model tire are you running?
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:25 PM   #12139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That One Guy View Post
What all did you have to do to for those in there? I'm gonna be getting some 18x10 et30 svn-r's and I'm trying to get some ideas on how much roll/pull/camber I'm gonna have to do.
I have 18x9.5 et38's and I rolled my fenders flat and my camber plates in the front are maxed. I'm going to order rear camber plates soon...camber bolts caused the inside of the wheel to hit the coilovers.

edit: sorry for the double post, I would have multi-quoted but I missed this guy's post.

Last edited by lub; 04-06-2013 at 06:26 PM. Reason: I can't read.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:34 PM   #12140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lub View Post

I have 18x9.5 et38's and I rolled my fenders flat and my camber plates in the front are maxed. I'm going to order rear camber plates soon...camber bolts caused the inside of the wheel to hit the coilovers.

edit: sorry for the double post, I would have multi-quoted but I missed this guy's post.
Oooh, that sucks. Thanks for the info tho. Post up some pics!
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:36 PM   #12141
flat4LGT
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I'm running 235/35/18s on mine. Front camber plates are maxed out, but no roll up there. Currently waiting on my rear camber plates to pull the rears in and eliminate the poke.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:20 PM   #12142
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slightly different look from the last time i posted a pic.
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:45 PM   #12143
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^ that is SEXY!
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:19 PM   #12144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That One Guy View Post
Oooh, that sucks. Thanks for the info tho. Post up some pics!
I will just as soon as I get some time (my camera is at my parents).

Quote:
Originally Posted by flat4LGT View Post
I'm running 235/35/18s on mine. Front camber plates are maxed out, but no roll up there. Currently waiting on my rear camber plates to pull the rears in and eliminate the poke.
Thanks! I have 235/40's and I'd prefer a little less sidewall...yours look perfect.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:47 PM   #12145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lub View Post
I have 18x9.5 et38's and I rolled my fenders flat and my camber plates in the front are maxed. I'm going to order rear camber plates soon...camber bolts caused the inside of the wheel to hit the coilovers.

edit: sorry for the double post, I would have multi-quoted but I missed this guy's post.

how did the camber bolts make the rear hit the coilover? im confused how that would happen.

Im still in between either getting 18x9/9.5 +35/+38/=42 with a slimmer summer tire 245/35/18.

or going with a 17x9/17x9.5 similar offsets, with a more meaty tire.

I want it to look good but also, be completely functional. i have every damn suspension mod also to support the wheels, except for rear camber plates.

anyones input? or experiences?
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:49 PM   #12146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flat4LGT View Post
Here's a close up of the side. No cigarettes though.


And a slightly angled shot down the side. Ignore how much the rear pokes out, I'm still waiting on the camber plates.

looks really good, moar pictures. rear and front shots?
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:57 PM   #12147
flat4LGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lub View Post
Thanks! I have 235/40's and I'd prefer a little less sidewall...yours look perfect.
The problem is that there are only like 2 tires available in 235/35/18. BFG KDW T/As and something else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rymaggi View Post
how did the camber bolts make the rear hit the coilover? im confused how that would happen.

Im still in between either getting 18x9/9.5 +35/+38/=42 with a slimmer summer tire 245/35/18.

or going with a 17x9/17x9.5 similar offsets, with a more meaty tire.

I want it to look good but also, be completely functional. i have every damn suspension mod also to support the wheels, except for rear camber plates.

anyones input? or experiences?
The camber bolt only tilts the hub while the angle of the strut remains static. So a camber bolt would push the top of the wheel in toward the coilover body and you're only dealing with millimeters of clearance when stuffing 9.5s under a wagon. On the converse, camber plates angle the whole strut and hub as one, so the clearance between the wheel and coilover body stay the same. If that explanation makes any sense.

IMHO, a 9" wide wheel would probably be the maximum that you could call functional on a wagon. 9.5s require too much camber and/or fender work to run a useful tire width.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:00 PM   #12148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flat4LGT View Post
The problem is that there are only like 2 tires available in 235/35/18. BFG KDW T/As and something else.



The camber bolt only tilts the hub while the angle of the strut remains static. So a camber bolt would push the top of the wheel in toward the coilover body and you're only dealing with millimeters of clearance when stuffing 9.5s under a wagon. On the converse, camber plates angle the whole strut and hub as one, so the clearance between the wheel and coilover body stay the same. If that explanation makes any sense.

IMHO, a 9" wide wheel would probably be the maximum that you could call functional on a wagon. 9.5s require too much camber and/or fender work to run a useful tire width.
thats what i was kinda thinking, but with your set up, mine would be close to yours, but i would have all fenders rolled flat, and a every so slight pull if necessary.

By the look of your pictures, i could get a 245/35 in their pretty easy?

-2 degree's of camber would be the max i would like to run, any more than that and the handling suffers i think.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:04 PM   #12149
flat4LGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rymaggi View Post
looks really good, moar pictures. rear and front shots?
Also, my buddy took a couple pics at an install day yesterday. These are all I have for now since my car is still a mess from a late snow we had.





Hoping to get a chance to detail it next weekend and take some good pictures.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:08 PM   #12150
flat4LGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rymaggi View Post
thats what i was kinda thinking, but with your set up, mine would be close to yours, but i would have all fenders rolled flat, and a every so slight pull if necessary.

By the look of your pictures, i could get a 245/35 in their pretty easy?

-2 degree's of camber would be the max i would like to run, any more than that and the handling suffers i think.
I have the rears rolled flat, but still natural camber (around -2*) while I wait for the camber plates. The front camber plates are maxed, but I haven't had it aligned nor had the front fenders rolled. If I roll the fronts, I can probably dial back the camber a tad. The fronts rub from time to time over bumps and on tight turns.
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