Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday October 31, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated with bolt-on Forced Induction Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-06-2011, 05:42 PM   #1
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default BB32's/redgauge ej22e turbo build thread

Hola,
I turboed my ej22e about 5 months ago(2011), she died a month ago so........
This is whats happening right now ( I have no idea what im doing ) so any tips would be awesome!

Im almost done rebuilding both heads.
I torqued the crank and am waiting for acl race bearings in #3
Putting ej22t pistons and water pump.
Wrx 10mm oil pump
Stock rods with acl race bearings too

Turbo
VF11@8psi
RRFPR
WRX 440 top feeds
WRX intercooler

Suspension
04 Wrx struts with 04 STI Springs

Exhaust
2.5 Vibrant resonator and muffler(1046) Catless
It's cheapishly loud and droney. Not very deep. It sounds worse in person. It's not total crap.. Just definently not the deepest cleanest boxer sound. It sounds generic. There's some dude from WA on here that loves it and always recommends it.
Also my friend has a hks(carbon something something) turbo back. Not the sexiest out there. I'd go cobb if I did it again with a good resonator. Maybe even stock sti



In the process of ghetto porting



FWIW my reflections:
Totally worth it. Without tuning it wasn't the best at idle'ing, but never left me stranded. I was 18 at the time and didn't know much, so it wasn't perfect by any means. I think I turbo'ed it for under 1k and rebuilt it for that much.

What I would have done differently(few years later):

Wideband. I never knew my afr and didn't even understand the importance. I wasn't the driver when the piston broke, but I imagine it was way lean.
I have an aem failsafe afr and boost/vacuum gauge. It's friggin awesome.

If you want to turbo your car because you don't have money to do a wrx engina swap.. Do it! Full wrx swap included wiring/ecu would be a good choice, but then you don't learn everything first hand.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by RedGauge; 10-25-2014 at 11:25 PM.
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 05:46 PM   #2
Jagular1785
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 194452
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Iowa City, IA
Vehicle:
The Mr.
Wizard

Default

Was wondering when you'd start a thread. What all do you have left to fix?
Jagular1785 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 06:24 PM   #3
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

I finished the wiring and cv joints on the tranny that I just swapped in.

I need main bearings, timing belt, and 4 valve seals. After that I should be good to go!
I got my clutch for 40$ too <3 I think it was a gator clutch. 150 new. Organic. It was toast when I swapped back to an auto to sell it. Like 15k after install I think...

Last edited by RedGauge; 10-25-2014 at 10:53 PM.
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 06:27 PM   #4
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

I dont get how to use plastigauge.. I do, but it just doesnt work right. So I torqued them to 33ft/lb's. Is that not a good idea? Standard bearing size too.
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 06:49 PM   #5
Jagular1785
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 194452
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Iowa City, IA
Vehicle:
The Mr.
Wizard

Default

You need to torque it down to spec to get the right measurement.
Jagular1785 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 07:30 PM   #6
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

Thats what ive done. Many times. It just smears it. (I dont turn the rod)
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 08:06 PM   #7
Jagular1785
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 194452
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Iowa City, IA
Vehicle:
The Mr.
Wizard

Default

if it moves at all, it will smear. Even a tiny bit will mess it up. I would try to brace them somehow just to make sure it doesn't move. is the crank sitting in the motor or seperate?
Jagular1785 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 11:16 PM   #8
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

seperate
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2011, 11:31 PM   #9
Jagular1785
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 194452
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Iowa City, IA
Vehicle:
The Mr.
Wizard

Default

Makes things easier to work with that way, the trick is to keep the rods from moving. I found doing one at a time was the best way.
Jagular1785 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2011, 01:03 PM   #10
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

So I put the rod on
put the plastiguage on the end where the cap will go
put the rod cap on
torque it
take the cap off.....

Is that right?
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2011, 01:12 PM   #11
Jagular1785
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 194452
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Iowa City, IA
Vehicle:
The Mr.
Wizard

Default

I find that it would be easier to put the gauge in the cap or rod first, then torque it down. If you try to put it on the crank, it would be a little more difficult to position. But either way, yes.
Jagular1785 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2011, 12:46 AM   #12
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

I torqued it to spec and moved on.. That sealed power **** would not work. I put my block together tonight! heads tomorrow..
Any suggestions? I have no idea what im doing until I read it in the manual.


I almost dont want to use nasioc anymore because of its censorship!
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 10:57 PM   #13
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 10:58 PM   #14
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

Going to portland for the weekend, so wont be done till late next week. my 5mt is installed too.

Check out babybalugas build thread on legacygt (it's me). There's a lot more info.

Last edited by RedGauge; 10-25-2014 at 10:55 PM.
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2014, 11:03 PM   #15
RedGauge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 269978
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
99 turbo legacy
sandstone metallic

Default

I get a lot of pm's here and since I never log on they're not responded to in a reasonable amount of time. Youtube is the swiftest way to get a hold of me with any questions. Find me through that video^^ Weirdauto

Check out this thread as it contains way more info:
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea....html?t=156502
RedGauge is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My very slow build thread 05BluePearlGT South West Impreza Club Forum -- SWIC 17 08-14-2007 04:41 PM
Jutboy's EJ22(T) Build Thread Jutboy Normally Aspirated with bolt-on Forced Induction Powertrain 10 04-07-2007 07:52 PM
A check-my-PC-build thread, with extra cookies. gongzero Off-Topic 13 01-29-2007 12:23 PM
Wh'appen to Tai Chih left the building thread? blaster88 Mid Atlantic Impreza Club -- MAIC 12 11-09-2001 04:26 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.