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Old 06-23-2010, 11:07 PM   #1
Keith Tobberman
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Default Cleaning/Waxing My New/Used Subaru

Well, I bough an 09 Impreza Premium Sedan today. It was already clean enough because the dealership I bought it at washed it before I bought it, but, I wanted to do a coat of wax. So, I washed it all up again with a bucket of water and car wash, then cleaned it very well. I then dried it as well as I could. See, it had been raining off and on, but, when I finished washing it, it was 65*F ish and breezy. I decided to go ahead and wax it. I used Black Magic Wet Shine wax. So, I was about half done applying the wax when it was nearly too dark out to see where I had waxed and where I hadn't. I did the best I could to finish applying then remove it off the entire car. It also started to drizzle so it was a messy job, haha. I took the car for a ride into town and back, and when I got back, I noticed that in the many spots I missed wax removal on, the dust from the road stuck right to it. So, at this point I said screw it. I took out the hose, rinsed it thoroughly, took my wash mitt and soaped it all up and rinsed it all off. I figured this would clean the left over wax and the dust that stuck to it. Anyway, I will see how it looks tomorrow, haha. Could anything I did here damage the finish in any way? I don't see why it would, but, give me your feedback.

-Thanks
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:37 PM   #2
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sounds pretty harmless...

you need to plan ahead when waxing.
1. wax on wax off in daylight or somewhere lit like a garage
2. dont wax when its going to rain within next few hours. you should let the wax cure overnight before exposing it to rain.

sidenote: i dont use black magic products except their wheel/tire cleaner and stuff. i recommend something like meguair's cleaner wax for you
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
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1. wax on wax off in daylight or somewhere lit like a garage


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Old 06-24-2010, 12:42 AM   #4
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^ rofl
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:30 AM   #5
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did you damage the finish....probably. Anything major/bad, from what you said, definitely not.

Nothing a coat of polish/wax couldn't fix.
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:15 AM   #6
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The previous comments are dead on. I have had terrible results with Meguiars and Mothers. They just don't make the cars pop in my eyes (and I very meticulous when it comes to showing off the paint).

Whenever something "new and improved" and "you've gotta see the results" pops up, I get it in my head that it just might be different. However, I always find myself going back to basics. I use Original Simoniz for my "put on and forget" wax. For those show days (you know, three days out of the year), I use Autoglym Liquid hard wax. Best stuff on earth and if you put in the time, your car and it's shine will deliver in kind.

Last edited by StayShift; 06-24-2010 at 03:55 AM.
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:19 AM   #7
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if you're looking for polish/wax that's forgiving and user friendly I've had great success with Poorboys World line. Reasonably priced and I always get great results...I usually get it from autogeek.net
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Old 06-24-2010, 08:18 AM   #8
Keith Tobberman
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Thanks for the replies. I have lots of experience waxing my cars and bikes. That being said, I planned poorly. I thought I had enough time, but it got dark. It is raining out today and the water is beading like crazy on the car. I will still put a new coat of wax on the next nice day though.

-Thanks
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Old 06-24-2010, 08:46 AM   #9
Keith Tobberman
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I am positive there was absolutely no harm at all. I believe I have done this routine before. It actually is kinda nice to wash it afterwards, it removes that greasy feel/look that many waxes and polishes leave behind. Thanks for the replies though.

-Thanks
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Tobberman View Post
I am positive there was absolutely no harm at all. I believe I have done this routine before. It actually is kinda nice to wash it afterwards, it removes that greasy feel/look that many waxes and polishes leave behind. Thanks for the replies though.

-Thanks
That greasy look means you used to much product. Its very easy espeically when using liquid waxes to use too much. A little bit goes a long way. usually a small pea size amount is all you need for a door or fender. Then just spread it out.
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:10 AM   #11
Keith Tobberman
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Thanks for the advice. Yeah, that did seem like the reason it was greasy. I think the wash afterwards helped the problem. I will wax it right in the very near future.

-Thanks
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Tobberman View Post
Well, I bough an 09 Impreza Premium Sedan today. It was already clean enough because the dealership I bought it at washed it before I bought it, but, I wanted to do a coat of wax. So, I washed it all up again with a bucket of water and car wash, then cleaned it very well. I then dried it as well as I could. See, it had been raining off and on, but, when I finished washing it, it was 65*F ish and breezy. I decided to go ahead and wax it. I used Black Magic Wet Shine wax. So, I was about half done applying the wax when it was nearly too dark out to see where I had waxed and where I hadn't. I did the best I could to finish applying then remove it off the entire car. It also started to drizzle so it was a messy job, haha. I took the car for a ride into town and back, and when I got back, I noticed that in the many spots I missed wax removal on, the dust from the road stuck right to it. So, at this point I said screw it. I took out the hose, rinsed it thoroughly, took my wash mitt and soaped it all up and rinsed it all off. I figured this would clean the left over wax and the dust that stuck to it. Anyway, I will see how it looks tomorrow, haha. Could anything I did here damage the finish in any way? I don't see why it would, but, give me your feedback.

-Thanks
How to not damage your finish from washing and drying:
1) use two buckets with grit guards
2) soft foam or sheepskin mitt
3) correct soap:water ratio
4) wash from the top down
5) rinse mitt after each panel
7) not using any media that falls onto the floor
8) don't wash in direct sunlight
9) don't apply too much pressure
10) don't wash in circular motion

1) CLEAN microfibers only
2) Not applying too much pressure when drying
3) not using media that falls on the floor
4) not drying in circular motion
5) switch towels if one gets dirty

If you don't follow methods or practices similar to that, you are creating swirls in your paint. And considering how soft Subaru paint is, you'll be creating quite a lot of them.

Also when you are waxing, the car should be completely dry. Apply with a clean foam pad, don't apply too thick, let haze, wipe off completely, buff with a different towel than the one you used to wipe the wax off.

~Jack
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:30 AM   #13
Keith Tobberman
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Thanks for the tips. I actually do just about exactly that.....most of the time, haha.

Since I want to re-wax it in a day or so, I think I will pick up some more Turtle Wax Liquid Clay Bar and scrub the car down, then proceed to wax it. I think I will still use the Black Magic Wet Shine Wax like before and follow it up a week or so later with Turtle Wax ICE Polish.

-Thanks
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Tobberman View Post
Thanks for the tips. I actually do just about exactly that.....most of the time, haha.

Since I want to re-wax it in a day or so, I think I will pick up some more Turtle Wax Liquid Clay Bar and scrub the car down, then proceed to wax it. I think I will still use the Black Magic Wet Shine Wax like before and follow it up a week or so later with Turtle Wax ICE Polish.

-Thanks
Why not real clay bar?

Why would you polish after waxing?

Have you looked over Keans posts?
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:49 PM   #15
Keith Tobberman
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Alright, so, If I want to use that Black Magic Wet Shine wax I have again, what would be a good product to use before it to remove any swirl scratches and other blemishes I may come across? Something besides a clay bar as I don't need that quite yet.

-Thanks
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:18 PM   #16
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I guess it all depends on how the paint looks to begin with.

I like the Menzerna Final Polish, but there are tons of products out there. What works for one doesn't guarantee it will work for all.

Here's the info Kean put together, lots of good reading here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1877117
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:31 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Keith Tobberman View Post
Alright, so, If I want to use that Black Magic Wet Shine wax I have again, what would be a good product to use before it to remove any swirl scratches and other blemishes I may come across? Something besides a clay bar as I don't need that quite yet.

-Thanks
Firstly you need to make sure you remove the wax before polishing. A good method to do this is claybar.

Ultimate compound from meguiars is good. It's one of their more severe products available. If you dont need as much cut then Meguairs SwirlX should work. It depends on your cars current finish really. I assume you will be working it in by hand. SwirlX should be sufficient. Just dont expect some dramatic results like you see posted by detailersdomain. You need a DA polisher for anything close to that
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:24 PM   #18
Keith Tobberman
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Thanks for the advice. Sorry to ask 101 questions, but you guys are helpful so I'll keep going, haha . Anyway, are clay bars risky to use? By that I mean, can you harm the car if you don't use it exactly like your supposed to?

-Thanks
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Tobberman View Post
Thanks for the advice. Sorry to ask 101 questions, but you guys are helpful so I'll keep going, haha . Anyway, are clay bars risky to use? By that I mean, can you harm the car if you don't use it exactly like your supposed to?

-Thanks
just follow the directions. the whole clay process is pretty fool proof. very easy to do and very little to no risk involved. if you drop the clay bar, throw it out. it literally picks up anything it touches.

the clay is sticky. usually it comes in a kit with a detailer (lube spray). spray some on your clean hands. then knead the clay a bit to get it about the size of your palm. then spray on car before claying. it doesnt hurt to be generous with the lube (i.e. detailer). just run it back and forth until it is real smooth. check the clay, and if dirty re-knead it to expose clean clay.

note: the claybars provided are pretty big. i would start with half and save the other half. store in ziploc bag or similar.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:52 PM   #20
Keith Tobberman
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It is supposed to be sunny but only 70*F and breezy tomorrow, would that be decent weather to do the clay bar, polish and wax outside?

-Thanks
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:27 AM   #21
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Try to do it in the morning/evening hours. Anywhere from 1pm until 5pm are generally the hottest, driest parts of the day.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
Firstly you need to make sure you remove the wax before polishing. A good method to do this is claybar.

Ultimate compound from meguiars is good. It's one of their more severe products available. If you dont need as much cut then Meguairs SwirlX should work. It depends on your cars current finish really. I assume you will be working it in by hand. SwirlX should be sufficient. Just dont expect some dramatic results like you see posted by detailersdomain. You need a DA polisher for anything close to that
Ö.I just wanted to point out something about Meg UC. If working by hand, you will likely need to go over the finish with a lighter polish like Swirl-X. While I have found UC to finish off surprisingly well by machine, it does tend to leave micro-marring (more noticeable on darker colors) that requires a follow up with a lighter polish when used by hand. It is essentially the consumer version of the very popular M105 from their professional line. Itís less aggressive (due to its targeted market) but shares the same SMAT (Super Micro Abrasive Technology) chemistry as some of itís other well known products (which includes M105).

Results will obviously vary due to specific paint characteristics, etc. so (as always) itís always a good idea to do a test spot first. Tape off a 1í x 1í area of the car and work the area with your combination of products until you get the finish to the point you are satisfied (checking your results as you go). This will give you a good idea of how the rest of the car will look when your done and how much time/effort will be required to reach your goal.

If youíre looking to possibly re-polish the car (and youíre going to re-wax anyways), I would strip the existing product(s) as jxkim suggested. However, using clay for this task is not what I would advise. Ö.itís a contaminant removal tool. For an OTC solution, I would suggest using regular (blue) Dawn dishwashing soap in/as your car wash solution. It is a relatively effective decon/product stripper and should make short work of wax you applied. At that point I would evaluate the surface and determine if claying is necessary. Ö.there are articles in the link jeff supplied that will help teach you how to do this. You can then re-assess to decide if you want to polish (continuing with a test spot, etc.).

Clay can be very damaging if not used properly. Itís not bubba-proof. Also, I have seen a lot of people introduce micro-marring/abrasions (in some cases thinking the new blemishes are simply what was lying beneath). You need to use plenty of lubrication, take your time and use light pressure (just enough to keep the clay in contact with the panel). If you follow the various tutorials and do it right, there will be little risk of botching the job.
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:50 PM   #23
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1430270
(about claybar removing wax) also you can google it

if you do use the dawn definitely be quick with it and dont let it sit on the car. make sure you rinse off real well as well.
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1430270
(about claybar removing wax) also you can google it
....hmmmm. I didn’t get that message at all from that thread jxkim. In fact, it seems to strengthen my point.

As was mentioned by some of the others in that discussion (like Texsurfer (a professional detailer by trade btw)), clay doesn't always remove all of your LSP. ….and they are right (I simply don't agree with Zspec or Willie on this topic). The fact is that there are far more effective methods for that which is why I recommended a decon wash first (which was also brought up in that conversation). IMO/IME fine/medium/OTC clays are simply not that good at removing LSPs when used properly (without excessive pressure) and to be frank, they shouldn’t be used for that purpose (IMO).

A decon wash is much gentler and effective for product removal. It will also help remove some of the looser contamination from the surface and any LSP that may be masking others. Stripping the wax first gives you a nice, clean finish and I find it makes any contamination left on the surface more noticeable during my evaluation. Obviously, there are several factors that come into play like the resilience of the LSP itself, grade of clay,etc. that will determine whether your clay will remove your wax/sealant from your finish. Heck, they even make lighter clays (like Sonus green) that can be used frequently without compromising your LSP. Personally, I do this on my own vehicles between full details to remove light contamination and don’t have a problem (using OTC grade clay I might add (which is relatively mild itself)).

Last edited by Kean; 06-25-2010 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Tobberman View Post
Well, I bough an 09 Impreza Premium Sedan today. It was already clean enough because the dealership I bought it at washed it before I bought it, but, I wanted to do a coat of wax.
Dealers are notorious for 'cleaning' the cars in cheap 'drive-through' car washes (where they get wholesale discounts) and/or having the business managers 15 year old nephew go to work on the car with some bristle brushes, a few rags, and a garden hose.

I suspect your car was 'clean' when you bought it, but what condition was the finished clear-coat? I suspect it wasn't in good condition if it came from the dealer.

You're best bet is to take the advice from people here and do a full correction detail on the car. That way you can make sure the paint is in top shape and maintain it yourself .
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