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Old 06-28-2010, 05:37 PM   #1
chazly413
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Default Perrin Catch can post-install issue

Alright, so I installed a Perrin catch can on my car this morning that I bought from a WRX guy, the install went well. I start the car up, didn't find any leaks nor was the car exhibiting symptoms of a leak. I look at the catch can and wow, I was not expecting it to look like this.





Is it supposed to look like this under vacuum? I'm worried because this severely reduces the volume the catch can can hold and I don't want an excessive amount of blow-by on a long road trip to fill this up, for example, and then just have straight oil getting sucked through the return line into the manifold breather.

Is there any kind of DIY structural strengthening I could utilize in this situation to keep the catch can from collapsing like this under vacuum? Also, is this also an indication that the line from the PCV is somewhat clogged?

Also, this frame hole near the passenger strut tower, can this also be used to mount the catch can vis-a-vis where it's mounted currently behind the driver side headlight? Thanks. I didn't find this hole until after I had already installed the can and started up the car. If I relocate it, it will be in a few weeks

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:20 PM   #2
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nevermind!

Um... I'm not sure about how perrins are made, but surely there should be something inside holding it in shape?
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:31 PM   #3
chazly413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formula91 View Post
nevermind!

Um... I'm not sure about how perrins are made, but surely there should be something inside holding it in shape?
Nah, there's nothing. Just the two ends which have about a 3/4 inch deep aluminum cylinder bit that the can slides over but other than that it's just a straight silicone cylinder.

EDIT:
Gonna try chopping the top and bottom off of a few soda cans tomorrow, place them in the catch can, and see what that does.

Last edited by chazly413; 06-29-2010 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 06-29-2010, 10:38 AM   #4
07ImprezaMB
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No, i just bought the perrin catch can for my car. There is a like a thin steel sleave that comes with it which is placed inside the silicone to prevent it from collapsing under vacum like what happened to you. Id be calling the guy you bought it from and telling him you want that piece or your money back!
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Old 06-29-2010, 03:05 PM   #5
chazly413
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I found a website that sells aluminum tubes to specified dimensions so hopefully that will work. Thanks for the help, everyone.
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chazly413 View Post
I found a website that sells aluminum tubes to specified dimensions so hopefully that will work. Thanks for the help, everyone.

Why not call up Perrin??
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:18 PM   #7
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^ because perrins customer service sucks dick, and if you bought something used, they basically tell you to **** off
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:13 PM   #8
07ImprezaMB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feint05 View Post
^ because perrins customer service sucks dick, and if you bought something used, they basically tell you to **** off

Dont know what youre talking about, perrin has always treated me great! Give perrin a call man they will help you out!
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:17 PM   #9
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yes i know what im talking about, just because your experience was different doesnt trump mine, give them a call im interested to see what they say

I have owned 4 perrin products in my life and they were all crap, i could rant but this is not the place
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:31 PM   #10
Henry H
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That just looks like it was crushed...not by vacuum but like a soda-can-forehead-crush that wasn't quite successful. I don't think that those lines are capable of that much vacuum pressure. But holy crap .

Perrin might blame the installation.

Ebay catch cans for me! Just a couple mods and it's perfect.
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:39 PM   #11
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I have a husky catchcan from Lowes lol
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:46 PM   #12
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I don't think there is currently any catch can designed to work with the N/A EJ's and their unique PCV system.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceFaceXC View Post
I don't think there is currently any catch can designed to work with the N/A EJ's and their unique PCV system.

This was the post i wanted to leave you beat me to it
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Old 07-02-2010, 02:32 AM   #14
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there is An N/A catch can it just cuts in line between your crank case and pcv valve (usually it's a 4 inch long hose on the side of the intake manifold it's fairly simple and the closed loop works well. i have a cheapo ebay one which was like 20 bucks but all it was is just a canister with a drain on the bottom.... it just stops liquid from flowing up to the pcv valve and collects it at the bottom of the catchcan using gravity. and if you want an air to oil separator drill a hole on the top and screw in a big hose nipple and slide a mini filter on it. air will go into the can and to the pcv while gunk from the crank case gets sucked into the can
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:45 AM   #15
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My current catch can is already installed there, it's just the fact that it collapses under vacuum severely reduces the capacity of it. So I ordered a 2.5" OD aluminum sleeve to put in there to solve my problem.
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Old 07-06-2010, 12:39 PM   #16
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nice hope it works. on the flip side i realized that the only important part to a catch can is how the inside is made. most expensive catch cans have a baffle in side to keep the oil and gunk from getting to the line which feeds to the pcv. mine i bought for cheap off ebay took it apart and it's just a container...... and sometimes since the intake line and exhaust line to the catchcan are side by side some of the gunk transfers over. so if you're getting a sleeve i would to some modding before sliding it in. could be a fun project. GL
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:05 PM   #17
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The top and bottom of the Perrin cans actually fit into 2-3/4 aluminum pipe like it was made to. Just RTV it together and done.......its actually way cheaper to buy the top and bottom only and not the whole catch can out-rite.

When you get your sleeve insert think about doing something like this:

Dont recirculate the catch can back into the intake if you dont have to . It can throw off the A/F ratios at different times, depending on RPM and boost pressures. Especially if your OBD2 and running front and rear O2 sensors. I do not return any lines on my STi, they all go to a CC with sight can then to the atmosphere but I do some what on my daily driver, as seen below.

Put the can in a place that you think is best and thats above or below motor level ( fire wall-on top of motor-strut tower ect or frame rail below motor level...)
-Being up above or below motor hight will help the oil and gunk drain into the can or back into the motor.
-I prefer to make or modify my own cans due to the industry doesnt make them in the best way for the price ....IMO.

-Just about any cheep ebay CC will work, I prefer round tube or square type due to the easiness of creating the baffling. Also a removable top and bottom is key.
This is the can out of my daily driver. The two upper barbs and bottom drain came on the can stock the mid and lower centered barbs where originally the sight tube holes. The lower side two I added.


-All motor lines going into can should be 1-2 inches from bottom of can
....I use brass barbs for the lines in and out and seal the threads with RTV silicon ....
-A drain in the bottom to a clear or sighted holding container



The Guts of the Catch Can
-1st a kitchen scrubby in the bottom
-Then snug-ly fitting baffling just above the lower barbs ( the barbs will hold them up ) to create a slight bit of back pressure .....any thing will work that wont rust. I use a series of sheet aluminum plates with holes ( 8-12+ holes 1/8 dia in the lower plate ) drilled in them. The scrubbies or w/e you use will keep them separated.
-Then a few more scrubbies to fill the upper void. The scrubbies creates surface area for the vaporized oil and water to collect on.
........thats the guts seal it up

Line Routing:

-The two lines on top of the can both go to the turbo inlet barbs
-The mid small barb goes to the gas tank vac return line that follows the fuel lines into the fire wall.....this can throw a CEL light. If it does and you dont want it to or cant delete it, just dont do this part. The cell will be for a faulty gas cap-EVAP code.
-The lower 3 barbs go to the left and right heads and the large breather near the turbo inlet.
-As you can see the drain botlle tells the story of what is not getting back into the turbo inlet!!!



I have been running a more modified hose routing version of this on my 04 STi swaped car for 4 years at 20 psi with zero issues.....my IC and intake are clean with no oil gunk build up......I also run this actual setup on my daily driver that has a WRX swap.


http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...highlight=swap[/quote]
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:11 PM   #18
chazly413
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I appreciate your help and insight, but most of that does not apply because I do not have a turbo
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:33 PM   #19
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Oh jeezz I didn't even see that!
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