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Old 06-15-2002, 02:10 PM   #1
PunKidd
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Austin TX
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2002 2.5 RS-T
LudeSpeed S. III W/ FMIC

Default Link plus and A/F ratio gauge?

Has anyone installed and A/F ratio gauge that is running a Link plus?
I just toasted my second autometer gauge yesterday when I installed it.
I took some readings w/ my DVM and I found that when I turned the key to the on position but before I turned over the engine that the O2 sensor signal wire had 12V on it. After I started the engine it dropped back down to .3v and stayed under 1.5 like it is supposed too, but by that time the gauge was already toast.
So is this right? Has anyone else seen this on their Link? Or is it just me?
I was thinking that I may use one of the extra drives on the link to switch a relay that would disconnect the O2 sensor signal from the gauge when if the RPMs are below 500 that way it would only come on if the engine is running.
If this is not a something that everyone else is seeing on their Link then I guess I'll toss my stock ECU back in and see if Andrew can't get me a new ECU.
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Old 06-15-2002, 03:41 PM   #2
Chav
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Which O2 did you hook it up to? If you hooked it up to the front (wide band 0-5v) then that would explain you toasting gauges, but if its the rear (narrow band 0-1v) . The link also has to be hooked up to the rear. The rear O2 shouldn't go beyond 1v.

-Chav
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Old 06-15-2002, 06:15 PM   #3
PunKidd
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Yep it is hooked up to the rear (which is now actually the front), but the wide band sensor isn't even plugged in. It is just plugging up the hole where the rear sensor used to be.

Anyway, I had another thought. Rather than running a relay I could probably use a zener-diode to keep the signal from going over ~1V. Any one know what voltage makes the last LED on the rich side light up? That way I could get a diode that is a fraction of a volt higher than that and toss it in between the signal and the ground w/ a load resister. I've seen the signal get as high as 1.2 on my DVM when I was running really rich.

I would still like to know if anyone else is seeing this w/ their Link.

Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2002, 12:44 AM   #4
Chav
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Yea a zener diode would work, but whats the point? The readings would be off if your seeing a max of 1.5v. Something is really wrong. Maybe a new O2 is in order? Sorry I cant help too much just trying to keep this near the top.

When I put my link in for good I'm gonna swap O2s like you did. How did this work out for you? Do you think it is safe to just use the narrow band O2 in the front to tune the link?

-Chav
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Old 06-16-2002, 02:49 PM   #5
PunKidd
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I donít believe the reading would be off. The zener would just keep the voltage form going so high that it destroys the gauge. As long as the voltage stays under 1.5 volts the signal gets by w/ no distortion.
I'm just looking to keep the gauge from getting blasted by 12V before I turn on the car. Once the car is running everything looks fine.
Yes, I defiantly recommend moving the narrow band O2 sensor to the front. The reading is more accurate and beings it is closer to the exhaust ports it minimizes the delay that you see when it is left in the back. This makes it much easier to tune. I don't see how this could cause a problem when running the link because the link only uses the narrow band O2 sensor anyway.
Still waiting to hear if anyone else has 12V on their O2 signal before they start the car w/ a Link.
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Old 06-16-2002, 02:56 PM   #6
Chav
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K, I'm about to install my link again for another couple hours. I'll check and then get back to ya. According to the link manual the O2 sensor shouldnt go above .92 volts. If you are seeing 1.5volts that is well beyond the normal range. That is why i think something is wrong with ur O2 sensor.

-Chav
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Old 06-16-2002, 06:09 PM   #7
yebokmj
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Default O2

Have you considered making use of that second O2 sensor bung. Why not mate the A/F gauge with it's own O2 sensor. There is one that Autometer recommends using with it's gauge. I would be just a generic sensor so it would be cheaper and easier than any other solution. If you are going to get a new gauge as well try the Greddy setup that comes with it's own heated wide band O2 sensor that's what I have and am going to be running with a link later in the summer.
Joshua
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Old 06-16-2002, 06:53 PM   #8
Chav
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I just ran the link 2 and the voltage on the O2 never went above 94 or .94 volts. Hope this helps.

-Chav
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Old 06-17-2002, 01:14 PM   #9
PunKidd
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Even befor you started the engine? If that is the case then I guess I need to look into a new O2 sensor.
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Old 06-17-2002, 01:37 PM   #10
Chav
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The only thing I can think of that would cause this is if you hooked up the gauge to one of the heater wires. I'm gonna go double check and see that it never goest to 12v even before I start the engine. This would show up at 1200 since 85 is .85volts.

-Chav
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:40 PM   #11
PunKidd
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LudeSpeed S. III W/ FMIC

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I'm not even sure that it shows up on the link. The link may not have the ability to read that high. I was taking readings w/ a DVM. I'll take a look though.
I don't think it is hooked up to a heater wire because it looks fine when the car is running. Isn't the heater wire hooked up to ground anyway?
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Old 06-19-2002, 02:07 AM   #12
redmeanie
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PT# G2989 HEATED O2 SENSOR....from summit....I have the Link 2 and from what Andrew at AMR tells me the best bet is to use the 3 wire in the front bung...1 wire+ 1 wire- for heater and 1 siganal...This will run both your A/F mixture gauge as well as the LAMDA on the LINK...if you look at the wiring youll notice there is only one wire listed for a O2 sensor (White)
Chuck
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Old 06-19-2002, 12:08 PM   #13
PunKidd
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So what is the defference from the stock narrow band sensor and the sensor from Summit Racing?
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Old 06-20-2002, 09:30 AM   #14
redmeanie
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No difference.....I just want to keep the factory one intact and not have to cut into the insulated wiring just in case I ever decide to go back with the stock set-up.....(probably never but you never know)
Chuck
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Old 06-20-2002, 08:21 PM   #15
PunKidd
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Cool. I tapped into the Link harness anyway.
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