HALP! N/A Subaru misfire/no fuel ISSUES.

Florin1 · 07-12-2010, 06:02 PM

hello all. I've searched the forum but couldn't find my exact issue/problem. Maybe someone can help. Its an '01 forester L 2.5l SOHC, with about 120K on motor and 220K on chassis. The car misfires severely on all cylinders. It feels to be starving for fuel. Taking off from a stop is SO annoying. It bucks and jerks and it has no power. (Everything Changes when i go to WOT) The car actually accelerates.

I've changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, cats, downstream o2 sensor. Pulled out pass side injectors and cleaned them out along with the rail. Same problem. Only thing i havent done yet is dropped the fuel tank to check the sender pick up. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Please help. thanks

My other issue is; when i take off from a stop and i want to leave a little quick, i get 5 or 6 rapid clunks coming from either the diff or the transfer case or the driveshaft joint? Its a pretty bad vibration because i can feel it not just hear it. It also makes this if i'm going real slow in 1st gear up a hill, and than accelerate. Also likes to do it on snow when one of the tires breaks loose. What do you guys say? BURN it?? j/k i like the car.

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Dunkin · 07-12-2010, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Florin1

hello all. I've searched the forum but couldn't find my exact issue/problem. Maybe someone can help. Its an '01 forester L 2.5l SOHC, with about 120K on motor and 220K on chassis. The car misfires severely on all cylinders. It feels to be starving for fuel. Taking off from a stop is SO annoying. It bucks and jerks and it has no power. (Everything Changes when i go to WOT) The car actually accelerates.

I've changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, cats, downstream o2 sensor. Pulled out pass side injectors and cleaned them out along with the rail. Same problem. Only thing i havent done yet is dropped the fuel tank to check the sender pick up. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Please help. thanks

My other issue is; when i take off from a stop and i want to leave a little quick, i get 5 or 6 rapid clunks coming from either the diff or the transfer case or the driveshaft joint? Its a pretty bad vibration because i can feel it not just hear it. It also makes this if i'm going real slow in 1st gear up a hill, and than accelerate. Also likes to do it on snow when one of the tires breaks loose. What do you guys say? BURN it?? j/k i like the car.

Have you replaced the upstream oxygen sensor? Do you have a scan tool that allows you to view the LTFT's and STFT's?

Do you have any other codes in the system?

kewlboxer2 · 07-12-2010, 08:10 PM

Check the coil. Take a spray bottle of water and spray the coil when its idling. If is misfires then that is your problem.

Florin1 · 07-12-2010, 08:18 PM

codes are: p0301, p0302, p0303, p0304, p0170 (fuel trim bank 1), and p0130 (o2 circuit, bank1 sensor 1). This is what the Shmucks scanner told me.

Florin1 · 07-12-2010, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kewlboxer2

Check the coil. Take a spray bottle of water and spray the coil when its idling. If is misfires then that is your problem.

i will go try this right now, although the car seems to be misfiring at idle already... it isnt running round if that makes any sense
Did this and nothing different happened

Back Road Runner · 07-12-2010, 09:51 PM

Air/fuel sensor. The car runs like crap if it's bad.

Dead cold, runs good, instant it warms up a little runs crappy. Idles bad. Takes off bad. Partial throttle runs like crap. Full throttle runs great. This is a bad front O2 sensor (air/fuel).

I would also suggest checking the electrical system. Clean up all the main wire connections. Clean up the battery and all the main grounds. Check the knock sensor, because it seems to collect corrosion quite readily. Disconnect and clean up all these connections with some water and baking soda. This helps the sensors function a lot better once there is a good clean ground to everything.

Clunks and jerky drivetrain is all about bushings/mounts. You fix this by upgrading the engine mounts, dog bone, transmission mounts, crossmember bushings, rear diff outrigger and rear diff rear bushings. The front end is easy, just bolt on stuff. The rear is hard. It's all metal sleeve press fit stuff, and you have to remove the rear crossmember to do it and use a press. A simple partial fix is to fill in the gaps of these rear bushings. You can use an epoxy or similar to fill in the holes of the oem bushings and reduce the amount of compression by a lot without needing to upgrade the rear bushings. This locks down the drivetrain and makes the whole power to the ground thing very locked in.

vanquish88 · 07-13-2010, 06:20 PM

make sure your injectors are properly seated in the clip. in other words unclip them check the clip for crap and make sure they clip all the way down.

i had the same problem. started spending crazy money replacing stuff to find out nothing was wrong with them. returned everything went in with a new mind set and scanned over my car very cautiously. i relized that injector 1 wasnt on right so i reclipped it and erased the code. BAM never had a problem since.

07-12-2010, 06:02 PM	#1
Florin1 Scooby Specialist Member#: 163625 Join Date: Nov 2007 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Lynnwood, Wa. Vehicle: 91 Legacy SS Silver	HALP! N/A Subaru misfire/no fuel ISSUES. hello all. I've searched the forum but couldn't find my exact issue/problem. Maybe someone can help. Its an '01 forester L 2.5l SOHC, with about 120K on motor and 220K on chassis. The car misfires severely on all cylinders. It feels to be starving for fuel. Taking off from a stop is SO annoying. It bucks and jerks and it has no power. (Everything Changes when i go to WOT) The car actually accelerates. I've changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, cats, downstream o2 sensor. Pulled out pass side injectors and cleaned them out along with the rail. Same problem. Only thing i havent done yet is dropped the fuel tank to check the sender pick up. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Please help. thanks My other issue is; when i take off from a stop and i want to leave a little quick, i get 5 or 6 rapid clunks coming from either the diff or the transfer case or the driveshaft joint? Its a pretty bad vibration because i can feel it not just hear it. It also makes this if i'm going real slow in 1st gear up a hill, and than accelerate. Also likes to do it on snow when one of the tires breaks loose. What do you guys say? BURN it?? j/k i like the car. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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07-12-2010, 08:10 PM	#3
kewlboxer2 Scooby Newbie Member#: 161322 Join Date: Oct 2007 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Galeton, PA Vehicle: 06 2.5i Regal Blue	Check the coil. Take a spray bottle of water and spray the coil when its idling. If is misfires then that is your problem.

07-12-2010, 08:18 PM	#4
Florin1 Scooby Specialist Member#: 163625 Join Date: Nov 2007 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Lynnwood, Wa. Vehicle: 91 Legacy SS Silver	codes are: p0301, p0302, p0303, p0304, p0170 (fuel trim bank 1), and p0130 (o2 circuit, bank1 sensor 1). This is what the Shmucks scanner told me.

07-12-2010, 09:51 PM	#6
Back Road Runner Scooby Guru Member#: 60082 Join Date: Apr 2004 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Minnesota Vehicle: 2004 Forester STI Silver	Air/fuel sensor. The car runs like crap if it's bad. Dead cold, runs good, instant it warms up a little runs crappy. Idles bad. Takes off bad. Partial throttle runs like crap. Full throttle runs great. This is a bad front O2 sensor (air/fuel). I would also suggest checking the electrical system. Clean up all the main wire connections. Clean up the battery and all the main grounds. Check the knock sensor, because it seems to collect corrosion quite readily. Disconnect and clean up all these connections with some water and baking soda. This helps the sensors function a lot better once there is a good clean ground to everything. Clunks and jerky drivetrain is all about bushings/mounts. You fix this by upgrading the engine mounts, dog bone, transmission mounts, crossmember bushings, rear diff outrigger and rear diff rear bushings. The front end is easy, just bolt on stuff. The rear is hard. It's all metal sleeve press fit stuff, and you have to remove the rear crossmember to do it and use a press. A simple partial fix is to fill in the gaps of these rear bushings. You can use an epoxy or similar to fill in the holes of the oem bushings and reduce the amount of compression by a lot without needing to upgrade the rear bushings. This locks down the drivetrain and makes the whole power to the ground thing very locked in.

07-13-2010, 06:20 PM	#7
vanquish88 Scooby Specialist Member#: 165842 Join Date: Dec 2007 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: the ghetto Vehicle: 06 wrb wrx 1999 impreza 2.5rs	make sure your injectors are properly seated in the clip. in other words unclip them check the clip for crap and make sure they clip all the way down. i had the same problem. started spending crazy money replacing stuff to find out nothing was wrong with them. returned everything went in with a new mind set and scanned over my car very cautiously. i relized that injector 1 wasnt on right so i reclipped it and erased the code. BAM never had a problem since.