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Old 07-21-2010, 09:48 AM   #1
Jerry_NJ
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Default Torque Wheel Lug Nuts - Impact Wrench

I have a 2004 Subaru Forester, stock all the way.

I have a new electric Impact Wrench, large metric sockets and torque extensions.

It is time to rotate the tires on my Forest and need to know:
1) Wheel lug nut torque
2) Can I use an impact (electric) wrench and torque limiting extension to install the lug nuts?
3) given the extensions are for a range, whatever extension I pick, it will at best give a +/- range around the objective torque. Any concerns here?

I'm don't know how much steel verses aluminum we have in the Forster wheels and lug receiver/mount.


The many many times I have mounted wheels over the last 50 years I just used a manual lug wrench and put the nuts on "good-and-tight". So the torque limiting impact wrench approach should be more accurate and safer.
Thanks
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:49 AM   #2
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66Lb/ft

'Gudntite' will probably be too much.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:23 AM   #3
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Torque is not a very accurate measure at the best of times, so a bit of +/- from the desired setting seems OK to me. I'm not sure about the torque stick and electric impact. I've read a lot of contradictory stuff about how much power you need from your wrench to make a torque stick work. If it was me, I'd want to check the settings with a torque wrench until I became confident that I could reproduce a decently accurate torque each time I used the stick.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:12 AM   #4
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Sure, use the impact to snug them up, but then go over them with a torque wrench. Like said above, "good and tight" is probably way to much.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:25 AM   #5
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65-70 ft-lbs, torque wrench is your best friend, screw the torque sticks their garbage..
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:58 AM   #6
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Thanks, I have a 1/2" (the good old USA size tool) that will take 65-70 ft-lbs, that's the number if I read correctly.

I will use the impact to remove, that doesn't require measuring any torque. Then I'll install the nuts with the torque wrench set at something less than 50 ft-lbs and then apply the manual torque wrench...this may also give me some idea/check on what the impact wrench delivered.
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Old 07-21-2010, 01:57 PM   #7
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I always do 90 ft/lbs just to be sure.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:13 PM   #8
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80 is good for subies. not a big fan of torque sticks. always use the torque wrench no matter what. also technically supposed to go over again with the torque wrench after driving it.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:27 PM   #9
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I think 72 ft. lbs. is the average. I only use a torque wrench.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:59 PM   #10
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i do 75 lbs check it regularly.
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:17 PM   #11
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do not use an impact wrench or gun, use a speed wrench and a torque wrench

65-72 is enough
I set mine at 76 and check them soon after
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904scooby View Post
do not use an impact wrench or gun, use a speed wrench and a torque wrench
Why no impact gun? Power tools are too fun not to use.



BTW speed wrenches are for engine competitions
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:58 PM   #13
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Thanks, I agree and view the electric impact wrench a "poor man's speed wrench".

I purchased it because I needed to pull a flywheel on a B&S Vanguard twin cylinder garden tractor engine. There were many suggestions on how to lock the piston travel so that one could apply enough torque to remove the single 30mm nut. I purchased an impact wrench, and "zip" off came the nut. I was very impressed both with the easy with which it broke the nut loose and the speed that it removed the nut. I like so much I purchased a set of torque limiting extension to reinstall the nut...so far so good, the tractor engine is still working. I was going to purchase an air driven impact wrench, but thought why? Plugging into 115vac (60 cycle in the USA) was a lot easier than cranking up my air compressor and running an air hose around. All tools are Harbor Freight Chinese "imitations" but good enough (except possibly for calibration things like the torque limiting extension...I'm not even sure how they work, but suppose they flex at a designed torque point, absorbing the energy from the torque wrench and limiting the torque that can be applied to the nut. This does leave unanswered: how many hits is enough, how many is too many. I assume each time the impact hits the nut tightens just a little more, even if the extension is in full flex).
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:28 PM   #14
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Impact guns are for removing lug nuts, not installing them.

Overtorqued lugs are a huge cause of warped rotors.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:31 PM   #15
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i torque mine at 80 ft/lbs. i've spoken to many mechanics and thats usually their preference, so i trust them.

I've overtorqued lugs on a really old car before and actually stripped the stud and that was not a fun experience.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:55 PM   #16
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Torque settings are based on the studs themselves. If one coat of wax is good and you put on 10 more coats of wax, the car won't break because of it. If 75 foot pounds is good, then 90 is bad and using a breaker bar with your elbow is worse. Studs stretch if you go beyond recommended torque. Then they cross thread, then they break.

I use my impact to remove nuts and on a very, very low setting to put them on (like 30 foot pounds) and then use a torque wrench to torque them.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
Torque settings are based on the studs themselves. If one coat of wax is good and you put on 10 more coats of wax, the car won't break because of it. If 75 foot pounds is good, then 90 is bad and using a breaker bar with your elbow is worse. Studs stretch if you go beyond recommended torque. Then they cross thread, then they break.

I use my impact to remove nuts and on a very, very low setting to put them on (like 30 foot pounds) and then use a torque wrench to torque them.

I gotta over tourque my 18 lugs.. just to stay safe
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:48 PM   #18
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Tight enough so this doesn't happen!
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:29 PM   #19
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I do 70-80 and run them down with a MAC impact on low. Then I tap it one more time after it contacts the wheel, and hit it with the torque wrench. Don't hammer on it. Torque sticks will still turn if you wail on them, and most people do because they thing they won't turn. My impact only gets moved off of low if someone else uses it.
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack ffr1846 View Post
I use my impact to remove nuts and on a very, very low setting to put them on (like 30 foot pounds) and then use a torque wrench to torque them.
....I do the same.
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:18 PM   #21
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I was under the impression Subaru wanted 87 on wrxs.. And that's what dus out and leswab do to me too..

No?
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWUsSubaru View Post
I was under the impression Subaru wanted 87 on wrxs.. And that's what dus out and leswab do to me too..

No?
....say wha....???
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Old 07-23-2010, 08:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punk In Drublic View Post
Tight enough so this doesn't happen!
YouTube- RX7 wheels fall off
IIRC, it wasn't improper torque, it was improper lug nut size/thread that caused this hilariously dangerous situation
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:35 PM   #24
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I never put my lugs on with an impact before. Always a ratchet until seated, 35 ft/lbs while the wheel is in the air, then 70 ft/lbs once the wheel is on the ground. I put ARP Studs in the front, and it would take a day and a half to put the lugs on with a ratchet, so I use my battery impact until it seats, then the 35/75 ft/lbs sequence.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:19 PM   #25
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Ive made the mistake of letting my brother put my wheels back on, and he used the impact gun only. There was a mysterious clicking noise when i drove the car which i later found was because he only used the impact gun and didnt check the torque! My wheels almost fell off! it is extremely dangerous to do it that way. impact wrench them lightly and then hit them with a torque wrench to about 80 ft lbs
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