|06-23-2002, 08:38 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wilmington, NC & Perth, Aust.
I'm just after some information on building a resonably cheap, but bulletproof and resonably powered motor for my Liberty RS Turbo.
The idea that I'm looking at is to get an EJ22 short motor from the N/A Liberty's, and build that to suit the forced induction.
What I plan on doing is:
a) What brand pistons and rods should I use? I want to run maybe 1.4 bar and have it rev to at 7500 rpm or more (is this unrealistic?). I want it to be quite, not one of these noisy motors with forged pistons you hear, and for it to be able to handle a thrashing and not have me worry about blowing it up. What about Cosworth blanks for pistons and Argo rods?
b) Should I have the block "close decked"? Is this really necesary for around 400 hp?
c) 2.5 litre Stainless Steel head gasket the way to go?
d) What about the crank - should I shotpeen it?
e) What about the rod bolts and bolts that hold the engine together? Bigger the better?
f) What heads should I use - 97/98 WRX heads the best bet?
Anything I have missed, or any advice people can give would be greatly appreciated.
Edit - more questions.
Currently using the Link, whats a good cheap upgrade for this motor? Link I dont think will be able to handle it. To start with I'd run this combination with the standard turbo, unless it blows on me prior. Autronics SMC would be my best bet for this - for around $3000 AUS thats the best I could get?
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|06-23-2002, 01:50 PM||#2|
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Schaumburg, ILVehicle:
Whew... well since I know very little about the Liberty RS, I can only make some semi-close guesses as to what is in the car currently.
If you take a 2.2turbo block and replace the pistons and rods, you might as well get one out of a junkyard, if you can find a decent one, and start from there as you'll most likely need block machining anyway. You could get .5mm oversize pistons (we in the RS's go from 99.5mm to 100mm), and I'd suggest new rods, as the increased torque you'll be producing may have a tendency to bend the rods. I would suggest a good set of rod bolts (most likely will come with or will be an option for the set of rods).
Now if you keep the 8.0:1 compression (IIRC), you should be good to go for that kind of boost/horsepower.
The heads are a concern at this point, as I'm not sure if those are SOHC or DOHC heads, or if they're even turbo-capable. The big problem with producing larger amounts of power up high in the RS's stateside is that the cams have too much overlap and cause power to drop off in the high end. Also the valve springs are too weak and the boost can actually cause valve float at higher pressures and higher RPM's.
I don't think shotpeening the crank or closing the deck is necessary for those kind of boost levels, but I also don't think that it could hurt. I would consider at least getting the deck semi-closed, or bridged, to help with strength.
The Link should be capable of delivering that type of power without much trouble, but make that it's either being tuned by someone good or that you get a Knock Link during the tuning process so that you can catch detonation and correct for it easily as that is what will really kill the motor.
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