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Old 08-02-2010, 08:07 PM   #1
09suby
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Default Synthetic engine oil and Premium Fuel

I have a 2009 impreza 2.5i with 20,000 miles, and I wanted to know if I use synthetic oil if it would cause any damage to my motor? I currently use mobil 1 5w30 clean5000. And would like to switch to mobil 1 synthetic.I also want to run 93 octane gas because I feel a difference when using it. Does using that octane cause any damage? Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:12 PM   #2
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Your car will blow up in a firey ball of death.


I am curious where the concern comes from in the first place.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:22 PM   #3
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HAHA very funny. I was just wondering because one of my friends told me that if i use 93 octane im just clogging my cat up because my car is made to run on 87. And also he said the motor won't run right with synthetic. So I was just making sure. Thanks for no help.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 09suby View Post
HAHA very funny. I was just wondering because one of my friends told me that if i use 93 octane im just clogging my cat up because my car is made to run on 87. And also he said the motor won't run right with synthetic. So I was just making sure. Thanks for no help.
Wat.

Your car will have it better. Mobil1 doesn't seem to do particularly well in Subarus, though. However, they are not horrible, and possibly better than dino oil.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:54 PM   #5
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The only thing that's bad with 93 is that you're wasting money. Nothing wrong with synthetic, also more expensive, but you could run it longer.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:22 PM   #6
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I was just wondering because one of my friends told me that if i use 93 octane im just clogging my cat up because my car is made to run on 87. And also he said the motor won't run right with synthetic.
Take a piece of paper and put that friend's name on it. Then across the top of that piece of paper write "PEOPLE WHO I SHOULD NOT ASK FOR CAR ADVICE BECAUSE THEY CLEARLY HAVE NO EFFING CLUE WHAT THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT" in really big letters. Use a magnet and put that piece of paper up on the fridge so you don't forget.

Seriously, not sure where your friend is getting his "knowledge", but he's not even remotely correct on either subject.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chazly413
The only thing that's bad with 93 is that you're wasting money.
There's some discussion in this thread that the newer cars react very favorably to higher octane, so I'm not sure 93 is really a waste. 91 might be enough, but some areas of the country don't have 91 - they have 87, 89, and 93 (or even 94).

Pat Olsen
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:24 PM   #7
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N/A cars are very easy on oil and you shouldn't have a problem running most any Mobil1 oil. Although if I lived in the South East, I would probably run 10W-30 year 'round. The manual states that 10W-30 and 10W-40 is fine for down to -4F.

No need for 93, but you won't do any harm. Just stick with a "Top Tier" gas like Shell. I would probably run 89/93 occasionally since it has a higher concentration of detergents.

-Dennis

P.S. - Don't every listen to that friend for any more car advice.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:54 PM   #8
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Ask your friend about which differential viscosity of Boxer epoxy muffler bearings to use and report back

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Old 08-02-2010, 11:19 PM   #9
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friends sometimes do not have a clue!!!!!

Oil choice is yours and never tell anyone here what you use,

93 octane fuel will only benefit you with a tune and a few mods. I have the Ispeed tune SRS-20 and have seen a difference
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:23 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
There's some discussion in this thread that the newer cars react very favorably to higher octane, so I'm not sure 93 is really a waste. 91 might be enough, but some areas of the country don't have 91 - they have 87, 89, and 93 (or even 94).

Pat Olsen
Guess it depends. I've run 93 before and have noticed no difference, but then again I don't have a logger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie
N/A cars are very easy on oil and you shouldn't have a problem running most any Mobil1 oil. Although if I lived in the South East, I would probably run 10W-30 year 'round. The manual states that 10W-30 and 10W-40 is fine for down to -4F.

No need for 93, but you won't do any harm. Just stick with a "Top Tier" gas like Shell. I would probably run 89/93 occasionally since it has a higher concentration of detergents.

-Dennis

P.S. - Don't every listen to that friend for any more car advice.
I still have yet to see any need for a 10 weight for the cold. I am under the impression that you want the thinnest weight you can get for start-up.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:35 AM   #11
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Any information i give here is based off of information i find off this forum, and personal experiences. DO NOT take it as fact, but rather as a guide to making your final decision.

Ever since i bought the car, i have never filled her up with regular. always midgrade (89) or premium (91). Your friend has it all wrong. the only reason 93 octane will clog up your cat is if it was saturated with sediment, and contaminants. also, only if your engine is running extremely rich. so much so that it leaves unburned fuel in the cat.

Running 93 octane is a waste, due to the cost vs the actual gains. 91 is the most ill go unless i have a properly tuned map for anything higher. otherwise the cost of the fuel is too high, for what little gains i get. tbh, 91 is quite high already but the minor advantages of a higher grade fuel is there. if you want a better quality fuel, without pouring your heart and soul into gas, then go with either midgrade (89) or premium (91). in a way, your friend is correct by saying its not good to put in 93. its not good for your wallet =p. because our cars were tuned for 87, there will not be a significant enough gain to make the upgrade to 93 worthwhile. thats all.

Synthetic motor oil in our cars whether it be naturally aspirated or turbocharged can benefit. Although it does cost more, the added cost is quite worth it. the oil itself can help your car run smoother, and without many of the problems that dino oil can cause. HOWEVER. there is a catch. be careful about which oil you choose. there are hundreds of accounts of where mobil 1 destroys engines, rod bearings, etc. same goes for royal purple. i have never used mobil 1 because of how many people out there have had problems with it. i have however used royal purple. perhaps it was just a bad batch, but it caused my engine to run quite rough after only 2500 km. never used it again since. i am now using Valvoline Syn Power. never had a problem, no dry starts in the winter, no burning of oil, no leaks, no problems. in fact, the car runs better than it did when i first bought it. i have used it for quite a while now, and i use a mix. i add Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer to my valvoline. that has actually helped improve my car's overall performance. (not power gains but rough idle is gone, etc) many of my friends ask me how is it that my car has over 70k (kms not miles) in 2 years but the car still runs like its brand new. i have compared it to my other friend's cars. 08 lancer, and an 09 lancer. my car runs smoother, quieter (if you ignore the exhaust), and better than theirs. the 09 lancer did run better when it was new. but only slightly. very slightly. they are just as anal as i am when it comes to taking car of the car. they just dont use synthetic or midgrade/premium like i do. they use regular and normal oil.

like i said before, i may not be 100% correct. i am prolly wrong in many places. however, thats what i believe based on what i found out. search around. there is much information that none of us is able to single handedly give you. Unabomber has some great info on oil. check out his stickies under newbies.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:54 AM   #12
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If you had an injector just pouring through the engine then yes, you'd see a glowing red exhaust right before the cat and have backfire explosions from within the exhaust. That's the only thing you can do wrong with fuel.

Synthetic oil is better than petroleum based oil. It's more durable, cleaner, and protects better. There is a price premium though.

Premium oil has no benefit unless the engine is tuned to or can automatically adjust timing enough to make decent gains from it. Otherwise there's no point to it, and you're just wasting money.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Road Runner View Post
If you had an injector just pouring through the engine then yes, you'd see a glowing red exhaust right before the cat and have backfire explosions from within the exhaust. That's the only thing you can do wrong with fuel.

Synthetic oil is better than petroleum based oil. It's more durable, cleaner, and protects better. There is a price premium though.

Premium oil has no benefit unless the engine is tuned to or can automatically adjust timing enough to make decent gains from it. Otherwise there's no point to it, and you're just wasting money.
do you mean premium fuel?
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:16 AM   #14
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i have however used royal purple. perhaps it was just a bad batch, but it caused my engine to run quite rough after only 2500 km. never used it again since.
You did add the oil to the crankcase, and not to the gas tank, right?
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:08 AM   #15
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^
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:15 PM   #16
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Amsoil XL Synthetic 5w-30 and 91 octane FTW! I'm tuned for the gas, so I do get the benefits of that. The oil is the best oil I have ever used...plus, the 8,000mi change interval is awesome
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:07 PM   #17
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I still have yet to see any need for a 10 weight for the cold. I am under the impression that you want the thinnest weight you can get for start-up.
10 weight? Like this?


If you are referring to 10Wx, it's not 10 weight. The W is for winter and refers to the cold cranking viscosity. The OP is in the Southeast so there is really no need for a 5W-30, IMO.

-Dennis
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:12 PM   #18
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i think putting 89 grade in a non-turbo is good. just like the turbo guys use 93 when only 91 is required. gives that extra margin against pulling timing and knock, but is not overkill where its a waste.
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
10 weight? Like this?


If you are referring to 10Wx, it's not 10 weight. The W is for winter and refers to the cold cranking viscosity. The OP is in the Southeast so there is really no need for a 5W-30, IMO.

-Dennis
The w is not winter and I know it doesn't stand for weight, too, and you want the thinnest viscosity you can get for cold. Sub-operating temperature engine operation is where 90% of all engine wear occurs. Start-up viscosity oil is always too thick so you want the thinnest you can get. I know my oil stuff.
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:59 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post

There's some discussion in this thread that the newer cars react very favorably to higher octane, so I'm not sure 93 is really a waste. 91 might be enough, but some areas of the country don't have 91 - they have 87, 89, and 93 (or even 94).
We have 87, 89, and 93 here in PA. I always ran 87 in my '98 OBS, but it had the typical piston slap those years had. It was annoying. It happen with any oil, but goes mostly away when warmed up. It sounds really bad when cold.

Swapped to 89 (mid-grade) and the piston slap has gone away. When warm, there is no slap. When cold, it isn't that bad and goes away fairly quickly. It's only 10 cents more per gallon... roughly $1 more per tank. I can handle that.
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Old 08-07-2010, 03:10 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by chazly413 View Post
The only thing that's bad with 93 is that you're wasting money. Nothing wrong with synthetic, also more expensive, but you could run it longer.

Have you ever done the math? its like a dollar more per tank for me to use premium versus regular in my car.

Thats a huge waste of like $4 dollars a month

My car gathers 3 times that in change
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:10 PM   #22
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HOWEVER. there is a catch. be careful about which oil you choose. there are hundreds of accounts of where mobil 1 destroys engines, rod bearings, etc.
Wow! I've been reading here for a long time and have read a small handful of first-hand accounts where Mobil 1 Synthetic was blamed for some kind of engine failure (who knows if the oil was to blame). I have however read far more accounts of Mobil 1 working just fine.

I can add my own account to that since I have been using it on all of my subarus for the last 6 years! My wife's '96 outback 2.2 5mt had 135,000 miles on it when I started using it and now has 230,000 miles. It does use a small amount of oil over the 5,000 mile oil change interval that I use but that has nothing to do with the oil I'm using. It also doesn't have any oil leaks. In my experience the synthetic has saved my cars' motors through the harsh winters we have here. (-20F is about as bad as we see)
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Old 08-08-2010, 12:21 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by chazly413 View Post
The w is not winter and I know it doesn't stand for weight, too, and you want the thinnest viscosity you can get for cold. Sub-operating temperature engine operation is where 90% of all engine wear occurs. Start-up viscosity oil is always too thick so you want the thinnest you can get. I know my oil stuff.
It's not cold in the South East! Read the temperature chart in the owner's manual.

I know that a lot of wear occurs at start-up, but please show me the 90% data.

"W" does stand for winter.

SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_vis..._number#Grades

For multi-grade viscosity oils, the cold temperature viscosity is labeled with a "W," which stands for "winter."
http://www.pennzoil.com/#/about-motor-oil/

-Dennis
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:56 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lezbaru View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chazly413 View Post
The only thing that's bad with 93 is that you're wasting money.
Have you ever done the math? its like a dollar more per tank for me to use premium versus regular in my car.
Either you have extraordinarily cheap premium fuel where you are, or you fill up your tank when it's only about 1/3 empty. Everywhere I've lived, 89 is typically 10 cents more than 87, and premium (whether it be 91 or 93) is typically another 10 cents above that. Often the gap between 89 and premium is even greater. So if you're only spending $1 extra to get premium, by my math you're only putting maybe 5gal in the tank when you fill up, and perhaps even less.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lezbaru View Post
Thats a huge waste of like $4 dollars a month
Not sure why that necessitates a DIAF. chazly's comment wasn't directed to you. Not everyone only fills up once a week, and not everyone has access to magic gas stations at which premium is only like 8 cents more per gallon than 87.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lezbaru View Post
My car gathers 3 times that in change
Get better pockets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by geronimo81 View Post
Wow! I've been reading here for a long time and have read a small handful of first-hand accounts where Mobil 1 Synthetic was blamed for some kind of engine failure (who knows if the oil was to blame). I have however read far more accounts of Mobil 1 working just fine.
I pretty much ignore all the comments about how Mobil1 is so horrible for Subaru engines. It's just a fact of life on the internet - people rarely report when a product works as advertised, but they love to post when things go bad. Add in that Mobil1 is one of (if not the) best selling synthetic oils on the market, and you've got a very large sample size.

I've used M1 for as long as I've owned my car (got it with 53k, just rolled 201k last week) and never had any issues. There are probably very few, if any, N/A Subarus that have seen more open track days than my 2.5GT, plus it's done dozens of drag strip runs and hundreds and hundreds of auto-x runs. I occasionally ran 15W-50 for track events, but most of my track events were run with the same 5W-30 that I normally run, which (if you listen to the M1 haters) should have guaranteed that my engine would eat itself in short order.

Pat
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:36 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by naimouasta View Post
i think putting 89 grade in a non-turbo is good. just like the turbo guys use 93 when only 91 is required. gives that extra margin against pulling timing and knock, but is not overkill where its a waste.
The EJ253 pulls timing on 93 oct in 80F IAT's. So there is no margin at all, even with premium pump gas, on the stock ECU tune. I have only proven this on 05-07, and the 08-09's have almost identical ECU tuning.
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