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Old 08-10-2010, 08:28 PM   #1
kometo
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Default ignition trouble

Hello everyone. Looking for some help here with my '02 OBS. Stock 2.5 currently at 106,600 mi.

In June CEL P0304 & P0303 (cyl. misfire #'s 3 & 4) came up. Loses power during acceleration and idles bad sometimes (especially during high heat and humidity, and it has been a steamer this summer in Chi)

Last night I sprayed the spark plug wires with water at the coil and plugs and saw arcs at every connection.

Plug gap is a little big (NGK BKR6E-11) and V-notches kind of worn. According to PO's receipts plugs have 16K on them. (edit, 21K)

Wires look OK and test within spec but 2 and 4 are covered with oil.

I can't figure out how to test primary coil resistance.

Secondary coil resistance within spec.

Test of coil connector plug with test light shows one igniter getting no power (no light) and another one not blinking (although lit up). This one has me stumped. Where do I go from here?

Oh yeah, and when I step on it and accelerate hard the engine stinks. (hoping that the cats are not cooked)

Downloaded the manual last night (awesome) and learning as I go. Any assistance and information is greatly appreciated.

TIA,

Paul
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Last edited by kometo; 08-29-2010 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:01 PM   #2
Imp-RS
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First thing you'll need to handle is the oil on the plug wires.
This means you need to replace your Valve Cover gaskets and get new wires. 16k on plugs should be fine, but you might as well replace those too.

I suspect this should take care of most of your issues.

After that if you're still having issues with spark, start looking at the the coil pack and beyond.

If the coil is OK, start checking all the other sensors.

For @ idle issues, Check / Clean your Idle Air Control Valve.
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:47 PM   #3
kometo
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Hey, thanks for the reply and suggestions. I'm going to do some more research tonight about the ignition system.

Can someone help me understand how to test primary coil resistance?

I have to admit that the coil plug igniter test results got me kind of spooked. If someone can give me some advice on how to approach that problem, I would really appreciate it.
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Old 08-10-2010, 10:20 PM   #4
Imp-RS
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http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...k-testing.html

Quote:
This seems to be the procedure:

To check the ignition coil's primary resistance, with the ignition off, disconnect the three-terminal connector from the coil. Connect an ohmmeter across terminals 1 and 2. This will test the 1-2 coil pack. Next connect the ohmmeter across terminals 2 and 3. This will test the 3-4 coil pack. The resistance should be between 0.63 and 0.77 ohms.

Also : http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t512...t-install.html

Last edited by Imp-RS; 08-10-2010 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:30 AM   #5
kometo
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Thank you so much, Imp-RS! I got 'terminals' and 'towers' mixed up. Kind of intimidating doing it for the first time but I think I get it now. Also thanks for the links to the other threads and forums. Great info. Very much appreciated!
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:31 AM   #6
Imp-RS
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Never a problem mate! I'm tech'ing my way through the exact same issue right now, except my valve cover gaskets are already new, so I'm looking at either my Wires / Plugs are shot, or my grounding needs to be gone over again. (probably both).

Good Luck!
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:48 PM   #7
kometo
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[post edited for clarity]
*******************

OK so I checked primary resistance but was not able to get any readings.

When tested for power earlier (ignitor unplugged, test light connected between battery pos. and each terminal) there was no power at terminal 3. [edit, probably just did not do the test correctly- Spoke to the parts/service guys at Subaru and they said not to worry about it because if that was the case then nothing would be working.]

Here is a pic of the ignitor plug. Is this stock? Been trying to read the wiring diagrams and from what I can see there is no yellow/black wire. (the car has an auto start, btw. just thought I'd mention it)



Not really sure where to go from here.

What do you guys think?

Last edited by kometo; 08-29-2010 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 08-29-2010, 02:06 PM   #8
kometo
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Looks like the coil was bad. Replaced the coil along with new plugs and wires and the car is running much better. Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:43 PM   #9
tradisrad
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if you fix your oil leak be sure to replace the bolt grommets in addition to the valve cover gasket. I found that aftermarket grommets and gaskets don't hold up as well as the factory gaskets and grommets.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:52 PM   #10
kometo
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Ah yup. Replaced the VC gaskets/grommets with new ones from Subaru and adjusted the valves while the covers were off. I've gone through my fair share of bogus aftermarket parts, too. Thanks for the heads up. Much appreciated.
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:53 PM   #11
J-Chow
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I don't want to start a whole new thread concerning my issue, which maybe related to this.

Current mileage on my car is 107 xxx km, and previously I threw a code (can't remember number), but it was a failure for the coil ignition pack which was replaced at around 67xxxkm, along with new spark plugs, and new spark plug wires.

My car is still hesitating on warm start ups.

Sometimes, the rpm's drop so low that the car stalls.
(I figure it was the SRI that I had, but I can't seem to justify that the SRI alone would create such an issue).

Hence, I was at the garage with my mechanic, whom I asked if he could test the voltage / current of my spark plug wires. Apparently, # 1 and 3 wires are generating enough current around 15-16, but when he tested #2 and 4, they have a low number around 4-5.

My question is whether or not, it is a) the coil pack, b), spark wires, or c) spark plugs that need to be replaced? I'm quite certain that it's one of the above that is contributing with the SRI to create such a surge at startups. I'm planning to return the intake back to OEM very soon, but what other options do I have?

I'd be quite upset if I'd have to replace the coil pack cause it was costly, where as the plugs and wires aren't much of a concern for pricing wise.

thanks.
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:13 PM   #12
chickennecks?
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Kometo, that yellow/black wire is NOT stock. That is the tach input for your remote start. Compustar/Nustart right? It should not be bare though, if properly terminated it would cause no issues, it,s just a sensing line.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:34 PM   #13
kometo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickennecks? View Post
Kometo, that yellow/black wire is NOT stock. That is the tach input for your remote start. Compustar/Nustart right? It should not be bare though, if properly terminated it would cause no issues, it,s just a sensing line.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the car has Compustar remote start. (not sure about Nustart) I had removed some of the electrical tape to have a look and then wrapped it all up again. It didn't look stock to me. Really glad that someone actually knew the answer to my question. Cheers.
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