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Old 08-13-2010, 04:22 AM   #1
NaturallyAspirated
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Default Waxing Mistake

I washed my car today and it looks great.

However, the top of my spoiler (added on at a later time and bought used from someone), is somewhat faded. The color is still there, but it just looks REALLY dull.

I thought I'd shine it up a bit with some wax (rookie mistake?). I used an older bottle of Meguiars Gold Class Wax. Applied some on the spoiler, used a lint-free towel to work it in, then used a microfiber pad to buff it out.

The result was that there are a ton of swirling/residue marks on the surface where it's faded. It's really hard to describe (I'll take a pic of it in the morning).

I first tried some quick-detailing spray to see if it'll get it off, but it didn't work.

I then used some rubbing compound, which seemed to help a little, but it is still very apparent.

Any other ideas? I've heard of using dishwashing liquid to remove the wax, but that'll be my last resort.
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:40 AM   #2
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Try the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and follow with Meguiars Swirl Remover. Then top off with a wax. Make sure the paint surface, the applicator, and the towels are clean and free of debris.

I think this will help with your paint issue.

Victor
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:00 AM   #3
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wax is more protection than anything else. to fix the fading/dull you speak of you need a polish. ultimate compound works alright by hand, but for any good results youll need a dual action machine polish. people often suggest following up UC with a lighter polish.

1. you gotta get the wax off before you polish. either you can clay bar (which will also remove grime) or throw some dawn in water and wash it off. dawn will strip all the wax off your car.
2. when working the product in i recommend not using a towel. you can use a microfiber pad, but i really prefer using foam pads.
3. if working by hand, expect to work the area A LOT using medium pressure and going over a lot. work in small sections making sure your polish never dries up.
4. wax is the only thing that you should let dry.
5. clean off polish/wax with clean microfiber towels.


p.s. you need to read the basics on what each product does. (i.e. detail spray, compound, etc) 30 min of online research will go a long way
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:05 AM   #4
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Thanks for the quick replies!

It's not as much of that swirl pattern that you usually see, but just looks like grime/residue marks. It's like if my car's paint was a dark piece of paper, and someone took a pencil eraser to it. There's gonna be eraser marks. Sorta like what I'm seeing with the marks on my car. Hard to describe really.

I'll try the dishwashing liquid tomorrow!
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NaturallyAspirated View Post
Thanks for the quick replies!

It's not as much of that swirl pattern that you usually see, but just looks like grime/residue marks. It's like if my car's paint was a dark piece of paper, and someone took a pencil eraser to it. There's gonna be eraser marks. Sorta like what I'm seeing with the marks on my car. Hard to describe really.

I'll try the dishwashing liquid tomorrow!
….everyone is pretty spot on with their advice.

The fact is that the surface was oxidized. GC has no cleaners to speak of and will only make a mess of something like that. You need a product(s) with “cut” and/or with chemical cleaners that will help remove the oxidation and restore the finish. Meguiars UC, Scratch-X 2.0 and Swirl-X are all products that work well by hand as well as with a DA. A DA/polisher will help but certainly not what I would consider necessary for a relatively small job like this. Personally, I would use UC first and then follow up with Swirl-X. IMO/IME, while UC finishes quite well by machine, it will leave very fine marring when used by hand. You will need a finer polish to finish off. ….Scratch-X is in the middle of those two in regard to aggressiveness.

Removing the wax you applied will help cut down on the elbow grease. You can use something like regular Dawn to help strip it off but I would recommend using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) with a paint-friendly towel to wipe down the area you will be trying to correct (making sure the area is clean before you do this so you don’t induce scratches). A common mixture is 50/50 IPA/water in a spray bottle and using it like a quick detailer. ….again, on an already clean surface. You can also use this mixture to help clean up the finish after polishing. This will help remove polish residue and carrier oils that may act like fillers so you can accurately evaluate the finish before applying a wax/sealant. …..of course, all of this is assuming the damage to the clearcoat is salvageable.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:14 PM   #6
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Did you apply the wax in direct sunlight? If so, how long did You let it dry? Its possible that the wax could have baked onto the surface. Either way pics would be very helpful.
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
….everyone is pretty spot on with their advice.

The fact is that the surface was oxidized. GC has no cleaners to speak of and will only make a mess of something like that. You need a product(s) with “cut” and/or with chemical cleaners that will help remove the oxidation and restore the finish. Meguiars UC, Scratch-X 2.0 and Swirl-X are all products that work well by hand as well as with a DA. A DA/polisher will help but certainly not what I would consider necessary for a relatively small job like this. Personally, I would use UC first and then follow up with Swirl-X. IMO/IME, while UC finishes quite well by machine, it will leave very fine marring when used by hand. You will need a finer polish to finish off. ….Scratch-X is in the middle of those two in regard to aggressiveness.
+1 for swirl x to follow the UC
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:16 PM   #8
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Here are some pics I just took. I washed it down with dishwashing liquid (Palmolive), and then dried it down. The marks were still there, so I washed it again, but still, no luck.

I really don't want to spend too much money on products since it's already faded (I'll probably paint it sometime in the future).







As one can contrast with the trunk's paint, the paint on the spoiler is dull/faded.
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Old 08-13-2010, 09:27 PM   #9
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That appears to be oxidation. You should take everyone else's advice and use a compound followed by a polish. I'll recommend Ultimate Compound followed by SwirlX. You can find both of these products at Walmart for cheap.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NaturallyAspirated View Post
Here are some pics I just took. I washed it down with dishwashing liquid (Palmolive), and then dried it down. The marks were still there, so I washed it again, but still, no luck.

I really don't want to spend too much money on products since it's already faded (I'll probably paint it sometime in the future).


As one can contrast with the trunk's paint, the paint on the spoiler is dull/faded.
....UC, Scratch-X and Swirl-X are each about $8. If you don't want to spend $16 for UC and Swirl-X (to follow up), you might get decent results with just Scratch-X for half.

I dunno.... I would rather spend the $8-$16 to try and remove that oxidation now vs. waiting for it to get worse and paying a lot more for a repaint down the road.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
....UC, Scratch-X and Swirl-X are each about $8. If you don't want to spend $16 for UC and Swirl-X (to follow up), you might get decent results with just Scratch-X for half.

I dunno.... I would rather spend the $8-$16 to try and remove that oxidation now vs. waiting for it to get worse and paying a lot more for a repaint down the road.
Listen to this man.

Also, in case it hasn't been said...when you're waxing, polishing or any of that stuff, a few key things to remember:

1) less is more, thin even coats will always work better than using tons of polish. 2 passes of thin coats will be more effective than 1 heavy pass.

2) when working with paint, make sure it's clean, dry and cool to the touch. I've seen weird blotches when applying wax/polish in direct sunlight where the paint it hot to the touch.

Good luck, hopefully it works out for you!
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:35 PM   #12
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try pledge funiture cleaner, im serious. I and alot of guys use it on our Busa's. Cleans really well and takes of the wax, which is good and bad.
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:37 AM   #13
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Meh, that is EASILY fixable. Here is what I recommend. This is the exact process I go through and the products that I use when I detail the the exterior of a vehicle. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU GUYS TRY THIS. The stuff is expensive but it LASTS. The next time I detail my car, I will record each step and post "before and after" pics.

Here is the process I go through, and it makes my car look "seductively gorgeous" In essence, it makes my car look brand new and out of the factory haha.

Here is my process, step by step.

I wash my car before all of this of course.
Step 1) Get any brand of clay bar. If you don't know how to clay bar then got to youtube and search "how to clay bar". Problem solved.

I usually use Meguiars clay bar
Amazon.com: Meguiar's G1001 Smooth Surface Clay Bar: AutomotiveAmazon.com: Meguiar's G1001 Smooth Surface Clay Bar: Automotive


OR

Mother's clay bar
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109331291

Take a 30 minute break. Beer, chat, bull**** etc etc. then proceed to step 2

Step 2) Rivstar one step cleaner wax. I do the entire car with this in one swipe. I remove it, in the same order that I applied it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=360167413697. Out of all the waxes I have used (too many to list) this stuff is by far the best. Application is very simple and done in a straight line, (as oppossed to swirls) and removed in a straight line. Removal of the wax is SUPER easy and done with little to no elbow grease at all. This wax alone makes the car look like it has been clay barred I highly recommend this wax (and step 3 after application), to everyone reading this.

Step 3) Take a 30 min break. Go have a sammmmich or a beer or whatever rocks your cradle at the moment.

Step 4) Apply and remove this finish Rivstar Show Finish(linked below) in the same exact way described in step 2.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3601674...=263602_263632

Try this and thank me later You can always skip step one if you don't feel like clay barring your car, but I recommend it.

If you REALLY want to touch up small chips and dings on your own then get this.
Best $50 you can spend for your baby's body
http://drcolorchip.com/

Do that ^^^^^ Then go through my process and prepare to spend long hours just staring at your car hahahaha.

Like it has been stated earlier. Use thin coats. One good swipe of the Rivstar should be enough.

Last edited by Burdman412; 08-14-2010 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:08 AM   #14
stascom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burdman412 View Post
Meh, that is EASILY fixable. Here is what I recommend. This is the exact process I go through and the products that I use when I detail the the exterior of a vehicle. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU GUYS TRY THIS. The stuff is expensive but it LASTS. The next time I detail my car, I will record each step and post "before and after" pics.

Here is the process I go through, and it makes my car look "seductively gorgeous" In essence, it makes my car look brand new and out of the factory haha.

Here is my process, step by step.

I wash my car before all of this of course.
Step 1) Get any brand of clay bar. If you don't know how to clay bar then got to youtube and search "how to clay bar". Problem solved.

I usually use Meguiars clay bar
Amazon.com: Meguiar's G1001 Smooth Surface Clay Bar: Automotive


OR

Mother's clay bar
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109331291

Take a 30 minute break. Beer, chat, bull**** etc etc. then proceed to step 2

Step 2) Rivstar one step cleaner wax. I do the entire car with this in one swipe. I remove it, in the same order that I applied it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=360167413697. Out of all the waxes I have used (too many to list) this stuff is by far the best. Application is very simple and done in a straight line, (as oppossed to swirls) and removed in a straight line. Removal of the wax is SUPER easy and done with little to no elbow grease at all. This wax alone makes the car look like it has been clay barred I highly recommend this wax (and step 3 after application), to everyone reading this.

Step 3) Take a 30 min break. Go have a sammmmich or a beer or whatever rocks your cradle at the moment.

Step 4) Apply and remove this finish Rivstar Show Finish(linked below) in the same exact way described in step 2.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3601674...=263602_263632

Try this and thank me later You can always skip step one if you don't feel like clay barring your car, but I recommend it.

If you REALLY want to touch up small chips and dings on your own then get this.
Best $50 you can spend for your baby's body
http://drcolorchip.com/

Do that ^^^^^ Then go through my process and prepare to spend long hours just staring at your car hahahaha.

Like it has been stated earlier. Use thin coats. One good swipe of the Rivstar should be enough.
Get a vendor account?
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:45 PM   #15
IONist3hfast4r
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I can vouche for Scratch-X as well. I had some nasty swirl marks and unevenly toned blotches across my spoiler. A few gentle applications and a good coat of wax and all was right with the world again.
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Old 08-15-2010, 01:26 AM   #16
NaturallyAspirated
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I just bought Meguiars UC today. Gonna try it tomorrow!
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:29 AM   #17
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I just did the whole car with Swirl-X and then wax. 4 hours later the car looks amazing, I'm beat and passing out. Interesting thing was that Swirl-X took out the marks on the door handle resessions from finger nails. 10 sec and the paint looks brand new! awesome
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stascom View Post
Get a vendor account?
I'm not selling the stuff. I am recommending some products for the op to use to fix his "waxing mistake".
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IONist3hfast4r View Post
I can vouche for Scratch-X as well. I had some nasty swirl marks and unevenly toned blotches across my spoiler. A few gentle applications and a good coat of wax and all was right with the world again.
Scratch-X is defly some good stuff
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:37 PM   #20
NaturallyAspirated
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Used Meguiars UC this afternoon. One word: AMAZING! About 30-45 later, the paint looks brand new.


DSC02438 by justsignbythex, on Flickr


DSC02441 by justsignbythex, on Flickr
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:45 PM   #21
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holy crap that looks brand new! good work!
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NaturallyAspirated View Post
Used Meguiars UC this afternoon. One word: AMAZING! About 30-45 later, the paint looks brand new.
....glad it worked out. You may notice very fine marring as a result of the UC in direct sunlight and/or certain artificial lighting. As I mentioned earlier, the Swirl-X should remedy that if it is something you find bothers you. Great job btw. ....looks great.
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Old 08-16-2010, 04:02 AM   #23
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dude im glad it worked out so well for you. looks like a marketing promotion picture from meguiars. thanks for showing us results. you must have been so happy after.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
....glad it worked out. You may notice very fine marring as a result of the UC in direct sunlight and/or certain artificial lighting. As I mentioned earlier, the Swirl-X should remedy that if it is something you find bothers you. Great job btw. ....looks great.
yes you can see that weird effect it leaves. its kind of distorted (hard to describe). if you didn't wax over it, i would follow up with swirl-x, then with nxt 2.0 or any other pure wax.
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Old 08-16-2010, 04:19 AM   #24
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Thanks for all the advice everyone. I really appreciate it!

Currently, I haven't seen any of the distortion or slight marring on the surface. It's been completely overcast all weekend so I haven't gotten a chance to have good sunlight on it. However, even under this weather, it looks completely fine. I may get Swirl-X sometime this week to finish it off. Does Swirl-X require as much effort as UC? Even in that small area, my arms were somewhat, but not completely beat when finished.

Will Meguiars Gold Class Liquid Wax suffice or will I need to get NXT? It's what I have in the garage right now.
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Old 08-16-2010, 04:39 AM   #25
07WRXwgn
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I'm glad to see such a dramatic decrease in your stress level and improvement in the paint finish with the Meguiars Ultimate Compound!

The Meguiars Swirl-X is a lighter polish to use and furthers adds depth to the paint.

Use a wax (Gold Class should be fine) to form a sacrificial layer on the paint to slow down the oxidation process.

Victor
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