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Old 08-14-2010, 04:43 PM   #1
huzidada
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Default EJ207 Build- EJ257 Block- Project Complete Pg3

Hi Guys.

Si I have a 2002 JDM EJ207 STI and I have had the motor rebuilt 2000miles ago. However my motor has sprung a bearing. The car is running the stock VF30 turbo. Mods are as follows...


Mods- 1. Manley Pistons- 92.5 mm
2. ACL Bearings main and rod
3. Cosworth Cometic gasket
4. ARP Rod bolts
5. Turbosmart E-Boost Controller
6. Walbro Fuel Pump 255lph
7. Spec Clutch Stage 3+ Carbon Kevlar
8. Injen intake
9. ECUTek. 175wkw @ 1bar. 200wkw @ 1.3bar
10. Full exhaust system

Now I know, this is a daily driver, and I tend to see WOT everyday, low boost, and basically drive the car hard. I thought my motor would last but low and behold, bearings ran. Oil level perfect, pump perfect, pick-up perfect, so it leads me to believe clearances were not that good. Anyway, when doing the rebuild, what can I do to prevent a spun bearing especially with my WOT daily driving( dont plan to change th VF30-Just want a quick daily)

My friend is an engineer and we have decided to do this motor ourselves.

What do we expect to replace when doing the build( besides the dameged internals-duh? What do we have to make sure to clean? Any chance of me finding the proper torque specs and clearances for the V7 EJ207? What do you guys think about clearances for rod bolts, since we used stock size ACL bearings ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Update 01-09-2010














I believe this was the worst motor ever assembled---the guy was useless. Using a cheap silicone all round.
The bearing damage also happened in 3rd cylinder. The same one that detonation occured a damaged my piston. Guess there was something wrong there as well.
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Last edited by huzidada; 08-05-2011 at 08:54 AM. Reason: Updated- Project Completed
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Old 08-14-2010, 04:47 PM   #2
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Sorry to hear your motor go, what weight oil were you using? Since its your DD how about using the 79mm crank for more displacement.
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:08 PM   #3
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contact dave@rallispec and see if he'll help you out with the torque specs and build specifics...
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:16 PM   #4
huzidada
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Well I was using Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 Fully Synthetic because it was recommended by my engine builder. However the car ran in(driven in) with the fully synthetic and I think that was a big no no!!!

If I go with the 79mm crank what else am I looking to change? And dont I lose my 8k rev limit if I change the crank?
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzidada View Post
Well I was using Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 Fully Synthetic because it was recommended by my engine builder. However the car ran in(driven in) with the fully synthetic and I think that was a big no no!!!

If I go with the 79mm crank what else am I looking to change? And dont I lose my 8k rev limit if I change the crank?
Big NO NO on the synthetic oil for break in...

If you get a 79 mm crank you need pistons with raised pin height...

You should also change your engine builder...


-soobaviator
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:56 PM   #6
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spun bearing shouldn't happen from synthetic break-in, should it?

60wt oil with stock sized ACLs sounds like more of a culprit than synthetic break-in oil.

With a vf30 car, stock clearances are fine, but I'd be a lot more comfortable with 0W40, which is a viscosity also available in Castrol Edge Sport if that's the oil you like.
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Old 08-15-2010, 12:00 AM   #7
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do you have an oil pressure gauge on the car?

was the oil cooler clean/new?
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:14 PM   #8
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Nope the oil cooler was never changed. What about the AVCS..is that hard to clean? Where else is it important for me to clean?

My crank has these slight wear marks on them, but it looks ok..will post pics soon...Will the crank still be able to spin to 8kRPM(is is a JDM crank afterall) if I send it to the engineers or is it better for me to get a new crank( can get one from Japan..about $450) but will have to wait 4weeks for it.

If I go with the 79mm crank, can I go for the EJ257 one? But If so do I have to get it treated to spin to 8krpm? I will stroke it to 2.2L correct?

Im a bit concerned about blow-by. There is no damage to my pistons or cylinder walls(if thats where the pistons move). Will a pressure test show blow-by? Can I physically inspect the rings to know if they have set well? Dave from Rallispec is a bit concerned with Manley Pistons, and since they still new, I dont just wanna change them out.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:37 PM   #9
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Yes the 79mm crank is from the EJ257 part number 12200AA430 (Subaru STi Nitride-treated Crankshaft )
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:14 PM   #10
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Cool, but will it spin reliably like the EJ207 crank to 8K?

For me, since the dollar is 8 times more than my currency, getting a billet EJ257 crank is too expensive, and I dont think the OEM EJ257 will be up for the job.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzidada View Post
Nope the oil cooler was never changed. What about the AVCS..is that hard to clean? Where else is it important for me to clean?
if the motor blew up before, its definitely possible you had some debris still in your original oil cooler. I'm assuming you got a new oil pump when it was rebuilt, if not that is also a place for lots of junk to hide and ready to trash your motor. The AVCS works off the oil pressure, you can take off the oil feed lines and flush them with carb cleaner as a precaution.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:42 PM   #12
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i would never use an oil cooler over from a blown motor. i have had friends have has cleaned them throughly and still had failure. not worth the risk. please trash that old cooler.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:47 PM   #13
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Besides the oil cooler, what else should I change?
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzidada View Post
Cool, but will it spin reliably like the EJ207 crank to 8K?

For me, since the dollar is 8 times more than my currency, getting a billet EJ257 crank is too expensive, and I dont think the OEM EJ257 will be up for the job.
I'd stick with the stock crank, the ej207 was designed much better then our american ej257 motor. Keep things how OEM designed them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by huzidada View Post
Besides the oil cooler, what else should I change?
I'd run OEM head gaskets. Make sure to get the heads cleaned by machine shop if thats even possible. Before you install your oil pan double check for any particles of crap in there. Maybe replace your turbo oil and return lines or make triple sure they are cleaned to perfection.

Run a non-synthetic for at least the first 1000 miles. Weight would depend on your clearances.

Get an oil pressure gauge!!!

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Old 08-16-2010, 07:14 AM   #15
huzidada
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Thanks for all the responses! I have decided to get a new ej207crank and since one of the conrods are gone, replace all the sti ones with manley rods to match the pistons:-) since im using a new oem crank, I dont know if I should run the std size acl bearings, the race acl bearings thats a bit 'looser', or run oversized bearings? Also, instead of getting a new oem oil cooler, I have a nice 16row and a 10row setrab oil cooler lying around( well the 10row was on my sr20). Can I remove the oem oil cooler and run a sandwich with built in thermostat? I also see there are sandwich adapters that dont have a thermostat but a valve inside them or something. Which to get?
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:10 AM   #16
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Oh, and most important of all, especially since I have a high rev engine, should I go for the expensive cosworth pump or are one of the STI pumps capable of doing the same thing? Also I dont want to fiddle with the oil pump(adding shim etc)
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:18 AM   #17
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Oh, and most important of all, especially since I have a high rev engine, should I go for the expensive cosworth pump or are one of the STI pumps capable of doing the same thing? Also I dont want to fiddle with the oil pump(adding shim etc)
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:03 PM   #18
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the stock oil pump spec that came originally with the v7 motor is fine. I dont think you would need an external oil cooler if you were daily driving it. If you were tracking it then that would be another story. Cold oil is really bad on the motor.
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Old 08-16-2010, 11:09 PM   #19
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you can buy an oem jdm 12mm oil pump through rallispec. yes i did say 12mm.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:25 AM   #20
huzidada
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I should have stated my question better!

My oil pump needs to be changed. For $10 more than the standard V7 10mm pump, I can get the JDM 12mm pump, which I heard and am trying to confirm, will be a lot more beneficail for my car @ high rpm.

Or I can get the Cosworth pump that costs a lot of $ more!

Is the JDM 12MM a nice assurance to have for my EJ207 or should I spend "that" much more and buy the Cosworth one?
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:56 AM   #21
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The EJ207 should have came with a 12mm oil pump.......
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:16 PM   #22
huzidada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RealDealTarheel View Post
The EJ207 should have came with a 12mm oil pump.......
Im pretty sure you wrong boss
But maybe Im wrong

I think its those beautiful EJ20 Legacy blocks that come with the 12mm oil pump

The twin turbo-twin AVCS kind

Last edited by huzidada; 08-17-2010 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 08-17-2010, 02:01 PM   #23
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RealDealTarheel View Post
The EJ207 should have came with a 12mm oil pump.......
thats what i thought too, but i never verified it on mine

btw to the OP, while everything is apart get a waterpump that comes on the 257s they flow more than the stock 205/207 pumps.
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:11 PM   #24
huzidada
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So I should go for both the 12mm oil pump and the EJ257 waterpump and I should be good to go? The 12mm oil pump is cool for 8k rpm?

I am keeping it a 2 Litre! I like it as a 2 litre, cause they so fun to drive. Im getting a new OEM crank ( original 207). So questions for guys who know their bearings, tell me, are ACL bearings good for my vehicle, and since I rev so high from factory, what would be the best series, and size for me?

I had the ACL Race in there, and they spun, but I never eveer really knew what Subaru did when they built the car( Yes I KNOW! My ex-dealer who closed down now built my vehicle for me!)
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzidada View Post
Im pretty sure you wrong boss
But maybe Im wrong

I think its those beautiful EJ20 Legacy blocks that come with the 12mm oil pump

The twin turbo-twin AVCS kind
I'm pretty sure you're wrong chief.

My EJ207 isn't pulled apart, is yours? If it is could you post the part number?

And the TT Legacy engines were severely screwed by being TT.
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