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Old 08-17-2010, 06:19 PM   #26
huzidada
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Il take you up on that one!

Yeah, but for a built motor, there quite something else to build, or so Ive heard!
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:54 PM   #27
fastnoypi
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here you go chief and boss part numbers in this thread

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=230

from what i just read the v7s came with 10mm
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:59 PM   #28
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He he!

So should I go for the 12mm or what?
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:07 PM   #29
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There we go, I stand corrected.
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:58 PM   #30
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i think the standard 10mm will do fine, you would be better off saving money on a better oiling pan/pickup. Most of the busted 207s out there happened due to oil starvation from high G turns and donuts. Supposedly the 257 pickup/pan combo are better than the 205/207 pan because its more compact? I haven't done a comparison myself but i would like to see side by side the baffling. The Killer B pan is very nice.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:42 PM   #31
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I think KillerB has a side by side comparo posted.
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:17 AM   #32
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Definatly going to do the oil pan, but not soon. Im a street racer:-) not a track racer. Its a daily fast car, not a track machine. I think the oil pump is the better upgrade.
Dont you think so?
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:44 AM   #33
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Ok I am confused you said you have 92.5mm pistons, so you did a bore up but didn't increase the stroke?
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:13 AM   #34
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Reason being, I only built my motor because a bad tune caused detonation and that kinda demolished the 3rd piston, did a little damage. Thats why we bored to a 92.5. And I love how it feels as a 2l. I am changing the crank and could go ej257, but then I lose the high revs.

Last edited by huzidada; 08-18-2010 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:27 PM   #35
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BTW...what line is this?

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Old 08-18-2010, 01:46 PM   #36
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^^^^ heatercore hoses
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:05 PM   #37
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your arm
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:40 PM   #38
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your arm
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Old 08-20-2010, 01:33 AM   #39
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Was the rebuild 2000 miles ago also using ACL bearings? If so, do you have the build sheet listing the bearing clearances? If not, did a Subaru workshop rebuild it back then?

I only ask because the Subaru workshop most likely followed the bearing clearances listed in the workshop manual and not the clearances listed by ACL.

For anyone else, if you are building with non oem bearings, make sure you use the manufacturer's recommended clearances and not the clearances listed in the Subaru workshop manual

Leslie
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:13 AM   #40
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Yes your right. Subaru built the motor and used the clearance stated in the manual.
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:31 AM   #41
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Hey guys and gurus. Please help me. Yesterday, I sat, and read articles about how easy it is to mod an Evo, how reliable they are with the bolt on mods and the beautiful power they make. The way they handle round the corners. I even had my mind settled on an Evo 8. And then I walked outside and I saw my Imreza, and you know what, I love Subaru. Its the car I like. I am a Subaru guy. So people, please shoot me all types of advice to make this car reliable. For another 60k km. I mean my car is stock, besides for the internals. And its only a vf30 turbo. Please guys, give as much advice so that I have a reliable Subaru. Something that I dont have to be scared doing highway WOT runs without worrying about my engine popping because im Flat out from 1st to 6th gear. Please guys
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:29 AM   #42
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the jdm 12mm pump is marked with a 12 on the back side. the cosworth pump is more or less port and polished 12mm pump for like 300$ extra. i got my jdm 12mm pump from rallispec. they have a contact in japan for oem parts.

the subaru oil pick up is a weak link. ask big al. the neck can break , cause oil starvation quickly and crap your engine out. i recommend looking into the killer b pick up for peace of mind.

are you building the motor or a pro? def use acl bearings over cosworth. you will find cosworth doesn't even make a lot of the stuff they charge double for. acl makes cosworth bearings...but cosworth charges more for some reason...name recogntition?
i would say plus 1 for under 400whp.
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:41 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
are you building the motor or a pro? def use acl bearings over cosworth. you will find cosworth doesn't even make a lot of the stuff they charge double for. acl makes cosworth bearings...but cosworth charges more for some reason...name recogntition?
i would say plus 1 for under 400whp.
I've heard this argument over and over again about Cosworth with nothing really to back it up. So I asked Ken Anderson at Cosworth and he told me:

Dear Jonathan,



Thank you for your interest in our products. Our engine bearings are produced by several manufactures to very specific Cosworth design and quality standards. They are not “simply-re-stamped ACL “parts. In fact, Cosworth offers a wider range of standard sizes than ACL does and our bearings are manufactured to tighter tolerances compared to other performance brands.



Cosworth has been manufacturing high quality engine components for 52 years and when we offer a component or part, you can be sure it has been subjected to a battery of tests and validation before it wears the Cosworth brand. We do not offer products that are simply re-branded. If we believe in another manufactures product enough to sell it under their brand name, we do. For example If you scan through our parts list, you will see NGK spark plugs. We could have easily re-branded them but why? The product stands on its own.



Thank you for coming to the source for the correct information. I hope this answers your question.


Regards,

Ken


Believe what you want to believe but I'll take their word for it and continue to use their products even though they are a bit more expensive. Never had a Cosworth part fail and I highly recommend their bearings and pistons in particular.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:25 AM   #44
wrxsti.l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soobaviator View Post
I've heard this argument over and over again about Cosworth with nothing really to back it up. So I asked Ken Anderson at Cosworth and he told me...


...Believe what you want to believe but I'll take their word for it and continue to use their products even though they are a bit more expensive. Never had a Cosworth part fail and I highly recommend their bearings and pistons in particular.
He didn't say they were not made by ACL, what he said was they were not "simply-re-stamped ACL"

ACL have manufactured bearings for many companies to the specs that are requested, including bearings for Cosworth and many OEMs in Japan. It is obvious they won't just be "restamped" bearings, they will be specifically made to the specs requested by those companies.

Does that mean that the Cosworth spec'd bearings are better then ACL's own "race series" bearings? I'm sure many will argue they are better, but just as many will say they're no better and are the same anyhoo.

What it does show is that ACL is very capable of manufacturing bearings to the tolerences and specs that Cosworth and OEMs require, so ALC's own products would also be made to the same (or higher) standard.

Leslie


P.S. FYI, Ken Anderson can argue that Cosworth's Subaru bearings are not "re-stamped" ACL bearings, but I have spoken with a few ACL reps over the years and the fact is that they are manufactured by ACL and THEY ARE the same design and metalurgy as ACL's "Race Series" bearings - just they have an extra size made specifically for them.

Don't believe me, go speak with your local ACL rep. Or even easier, just read the product info on both their websites HERE and HERE (better do it quick, because I wouldn't be suprised if Cosworth edit it in future)
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:03 AM   #45
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Granted that ACL makes the bearings however I don't think Cosworth has an issue about anyone knowing that. I think there is also some information missing in the equation as well. I'd like to actually compare the two bearings physically as well. I've never bought the ACL's and the price difference is about $15 between what I pay for the Cosworth's and the best prices I've seen for ACL Race rod bearings. The Cosworth +.002 bearings have come in handy too.

Anyway I think the OP is all over the map on this build. He's got another thread where he's considering buying an EVO...
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Old 08-20-2010, 11:52 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soobaviator View Post
Anyway I think the OP is all over the map on this build. He's got another thread where he's considering buying an EVO...
Another thread or the same thread you reading? On top of it, I said I got so sick of the Scooby, I said stuff it, Im getting an Evo, but when I saw my Subaru, my heart said Im a scooby guy, not an Evo man.

With that being said, I honestly want to know what my options are. I have had my original EJ207 destroyed because of a lousy tune and just 3 months after rebuilding the motor, I spun a bearing, because of a lousy build( tune was spot on- zero detonation)

The worst thing is, Im having all these hassles and Im on the stock turbo.

I have thought about the 2.2 Stoker Kit and even about the 2.5 STI, but you know what, I dont want to build my motor, because this car was meant to be a 300whp daily ( I have another JDM Monster for the track days). I will not snap change, flat floor change, rev past the limit, but I want a car that if I feel like going WOT everyday( not till 8krpm but 7krpm) it must be able to handle it(like the original motor did, first with my uncle for 4years and me for one year-granted it was not tuned). I dont track this car, but I drive fast, so even if I got a 150mile journey ahead of me, the car must be able to handle the sustained high speed.

So... Here is what I have
1. EJ207 bored out to 92.5mm ( detonation damaged 3rd cylinder piston & wall, hence the rebore).
2. Manley Forged 92.5mm Pistons( will rehone the cylinders and install new rings)
3. Injen Intake
4. Full exhaust, from down pipe to back box.
5. Turbosmart E-Boost
6. Spec Stage 3+ Clutch
7. ECUTEK tuned by the awesome Craig of NXGen( only South Africans will know him)
8. Walbro 255lph fuel pump


What I will be getting for the build
1. Brand new OEM crankshaft ( original one for my engine)
2. OEM oil cooler
3. OEM 12mm JDM oil pump
5. OEM EJ207 waterpump
6. STI Timing belt ( ok, I already have it, and all pulleys and idlers, did only 2000km and spun bearing)
7. Original STI conrods. Got all four from a 2.5 STI
8. Like the KillerB pan, but for the price, Im gonna go either for the Hyperflow or Cosworth one.
9. Bearings **
10. Original gasket set (ditch the cometic)

What else do I need( beside a retune) to make this build ultra reliable.

My friend (who is a BMW and Mercedes pro) and I want to build this engine.
** Since Im installing new crankshaft and rods as OEM, what do you guys think about the ACL race bearings? These bearings are .0005" thinner per half, giving an extra .001" of clearance. Standard sizing only.

Im so sorry about my long and detailed story, but I live in a country that is in development and have to travel to South Africa to get things done.
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Old 08-21-2010, 12:42 PM   #47
huzidada
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Guys what do you think about using the OEM bearings instead of the ACL? I will be running a new OEM crank and STI conrods after all.

I was looking at the Crawford blocks and they all use OEM bearings, and my car always did rev happy from factory.

Last edited by huzidada; 08-21-2010 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 08-21-2010, 12:51 PM   #48
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If you are going to run freakin 60wt oil you need more than the OEM oil clearance. If you are going to use sustained high speed you are going to need more than OEM oil clearance. I would look at +.001 or +.002 aftermarket bearings, whichever gives you the proper clearance for that oil grade, and gives consistent rod journal clearances within +/- .0001 between highest and lowest. You won't be able to achieve the proper clearance with OEM bearings nor the consistency necessary for sustained high RPM operation.
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:03 PM   #49
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Hey, dont hate on my 60wt oil !!!!


Lol, nah this time Im gonna run n on a good quality 20w50 multigrade oil, and switch over to Castrol Edge 5w40
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:28 PM   #50
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I am also from SA...nothing wrong with 10w60 specially in SA with our high temps. I use sae40 oil for start up... then I check for leaks and take it for a slow drive...30km or so.... then I change it for Valvoline XLD 20w50 change after 1500km under 4500 rpm, then 20w50 XLD till 4000km keep it under 6000rpm. Then 10w60 castrol or 15w50 mobil 1 if you can find it
If you like high rpm you should get better rods...the oem rods have failed here in SA a couple of times.
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