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Old 11-22-2011, 03:34 PM   #501
Bariga
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Took the gasket apart to see how its made


And Finally got myself some AN wrenches about time

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Old 11-22-2011, 04:38 PM   #502
kellygnsd
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Looks like you've had issues with multi-layered gaskets too. I guess your only option is no gasket.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:58 PM   #503
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or go baller and o-ring
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:05 PM   #504
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or go baller and o-ring
I wish i had CNC Stianless flanges with O-rings! Maybe for 5 grand kit full-race should rethink the design?
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:08 PM   #505
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Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Looks like you've had issues with multi-layered gaskets too. I guess your only option is no gasket.
I'll use single layer gasket and copper sealant, what's the correct way of installing with that sealant? Do I have to let it dry I torque the bolts?
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:11 PM   #506
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waiting til it dries to tq the bolts sounds like a bad idea to me. Im sure if you just used the supplied gasket and tq it correctly there would be no issue.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:14 PM   #507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
I'll use single layer gasket and copper sealant, what's the correct way of installing with that sealant? Do I have to let it dry I torque the bolts?
thin bead around the ports, both sides of the gasket. slap it together, torque it to final value and let it dry overnight before you start it.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:42 PM   #508
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thin bead around the ports, both sides of the gasket. slap it together, torque it to final value and let it dry overnight before you start it.
Yes! Letting it dry is a bad idea. It won't let you compress the liquid layer as much. That leaves more of the weak RTV layer to fail and leak.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:56 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2oiroc View Post
thin bead around the ports, both sides of the gasket. slap it together, torque it to final value and let it dry overnight before you start it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
Yes! Letting it dry is a bad idea. It won't let you compress the liquid layer as much. That leaves more of the weak RTV layer to fail and leak.
+1
+1

Torque down while wet, DO NOT START CAR. I was always told 24 hours for it to dry, less if it's hot outside. I personally would wait 24hours cause it's pre turbo where there will be higher exhaust pressure then post turbo. Just my paranoid .02.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:28 PM   #510
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thanks for the tip! I hope I'll be able to remove the broken stud out from the uppipe! It broke in 2 days after i torq that bolt more to see if it fixes the leak
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:33 PM   #511
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Quote:
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thanks for the tip! I hope I'll be able to remove the broken stud out from the uppipe! It broke in 2 days after i torq that bolt more to see if it fixes the leak
Marinade it in PB Blaster and come from the top with a drill smaller than the minor dia of the threads. Usually it will spin right out.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:42 PM   #512
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50:50 acetone/ATF works if/when PB blaster fails you

Last edited by 3MI Racing; 11-22-2011 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:05 PM   #513
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just be sure you don't put so much in there that it squeezes out into the exhaust.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:03 PM   #514
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Removed the broken stud last night, it broke mostly due to the hex hole cut out on the bottom of it! Had to drill the bitch out! Checked all the flanges they all flat, no idea why the grimspeed 2x gasket leaked at the bottom of the uppipe!
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:04 PM   #515
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because it's a 2x gasket.

I'm not sure why people don't understand that a 1 ply gasket has two places to leak and that a multi-ply gasket has many times more chances of leaking.

NEVER use more gasket than you need. If the flanges are perfectly flat, don't use a gasket. I have multiple turbo kits where the turbo sits right on the flange and doesn't leak.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:06 PM   #516
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I have 2 more of them installed at the block side should i swap them with oem?
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:08 PM   #517
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the fewer the layers the better.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:49 PM   #518
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Will install the uppipe with hotside bolted on, used single layer gasket with ultra copper sealant
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:30 PM   #519
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^ thats so sick. but yeah always surprises me every time i install my ultimate racing turbo kit and using a thin layer of right stuff gasket junk and no real gasket it always seals perfect!
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:39 PM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post


Will install the uppipe with hotside bolted on, used single layer gasket with ultra copper sealant
A word of caution: I read the you had a broken stud. If you are using a stud that is broached for a hex key on one end make sure that you thread the nut past the broached portion of the stud. Otherwise you are pulling on a fastner with a drastically reduced cross section/ultimate strength.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:24 PM   #521
Bariga
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I got metric studs, the studs with hex are very weak
Martin this is exactly how my failed
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:45 AM   #522
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thats good info ^.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:35 AM   #523
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I ran "set screws". Or hex broached studs. In cases where there was clearance I was able to simply leave enough exposed stud that I could thread the nut down past the broached hex portion. Otherwise I had to thread the stud in upside down (broached end into up pipe flange, and have about 1/4" protruding out the bottom of the flange to ensure I was pulling on the full cross section.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:48 PM   #524
Bariga
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Grinded the Comp housing to gain more clearance at the wheel wall


Mounted the assembly


This Vband gasket is to thick and not going to work


Coolant leak check


Guess whos behind the wheel?
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:44 AM   #525
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A thin coat of ultra copper on the V-band flage should cure what ails you on your down pipe; the stuff is like the "tussin" of the automotive world.
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