Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday June 29, 2016
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-21-2010, 07:10 PM   #1
STIWRC111
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158449
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Subaru Banner Built motor break in

I just had my motor built with Cosworth pistons, rods, ACL main and rod bearings, and ARP head studs. What oil is recommended and how should I go about breaking it in? I purchased 5W30 NON-synthetic but I was told to go heavier. It hasent been started yet but I'm setting the map to economic to lower the boost for the first 1,000 miles with my acessport.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
STIWRC111 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 08-21-2010, 09:49 PM   #2
Concillian
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan
Midnight Black

Default

Oil viscosity depends on clearances, stock clearances should be fine with 5w30 through 10w40. If larger clearances then 10w40-20w50.

I really don't see a problem with 5w30. Break in oil is only in there for 20-50 miles, so it doesn't really have time to break down and you don't run it very hard. Some will use special break in oil, I'm not sure that's really necessary.

Break in is about getting the rings sealed well, and this happens with cylinder pressure, both positive and negative. Alternate steady moderate boosting (5-10 psi) and decel. If you have a hill nearby, it's really easy, otherwise you have to be a little more cautious for traffic and do accel, decel.

Get some good boosting in the first 20-50 miles and dump the oil. After that first break in, drive like a normal person & change every 500-750 miles until 1500, then switch to your syn and get your real tune.

That's my opinion anyway, I'm sure there are others. I doubt you'll find too many people disagreeing with getting some decently hard running in the first 50 miles though. There's really not any other way to get the rings sealed. You need a large pressure difference between the crankcase and the combustion chamber to really push the rings against the cylinder walls, and you need that to happen before the honed cylinders are worn in to get a good ring seal.
Concillian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 03:41 AM   #3
project_skyline
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 153880
Join Date: Jul 2007
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Western Slope, Colorado
Vehicle:
03 Evo VIII
2011 STI

Default

I'd run a thicker oil anyway. 10w30 works good.

Don't baby the motor, beat on it good enough to build enough pressure to seat the rings good so you have a nice sealed motor.

Make sure to let it warm up before driving it and let it cool down after driving it.
Alternate your load/rpms and gears. Don't sit in traffic and don't just cruise down the highway at 70 mph. They main thing is vary the conditions the car sees.
project_skyline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2010, 06:13 AM   #4
NWSTi-wa
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 245786
Join Date: May 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Default

This: http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?ID=3475

Although, they say to drive it "easy" and 1-2psi of boost? Im of course a little loose on that as they give good clear directions that go more into detail but mostly they say drive it "easy" during break in.

I have honestly heard more people say drive it "kinda hard" than "easy".
Anyone want to prove cobb tuning wrong?

I need to break my new built motor in here pretty quick aswell.
NWSTi-wa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2010, 09:13 AM   #5
prometheum
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 92003
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Tatooine
Vehicle:
04 bicycle!

Default

why don't you ask the guy who built it?
prometheum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 01:29 AM   #6
hellishsti
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 201608
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ct
Vehicle:
04 sti
blue

Default

6 years later and here I am asking the same question....
hellishsti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 02:49 AM   #7
2000subie
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 207638
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Texas
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
Yellow

Default

Start, run 20 mins at varying RPM's break in cams if new. Dump oil, cut filter. If it checks out good do fresh oil and filter. 15-20 pulls to 5,500-6,000RPM getting into boost, engine braking to idle. Dump oil and check the filter again. If all good turn it up and go.
2000subie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2016, 12:54 AM   #8
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

Good read: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2533891

Two schools of thought. Drive it like a grandma for 1000 miles, or put in some dino oil, start the motor and bring it up to temp, dump oil, add more dino oil w/redline break in additive and beat on it. Change oil as often as it takes to make you feel good.
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2016, 06:35 AM   #9
user1029
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 57064
Join Date: Mar 2004
Vehicle:
2008 STi IAG built
HTA86, Meth, 272s, Cos IM

Default

Dyno break in then 500whp tune, that's what I did twice

IAG uses 10w40 motul break in oil with changes at 500, 1500, 3000 then switch to synethic if you want

Lots of engine braking prevents your engine from breaking
user1029 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 09:30 AM   #10
vwown3d
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 69991
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: USA
Vehicle:
Leh Keen Approved
'68 Volvo Amazon

Default

Priming the oil system is recommended as well....not just running it without the plugs and fuel pump fuse pulled. A pressure oilier will save you any chance of a bubble or blockage in the system that can cause damage to your heads.
vwown3d is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2016, 05:16 PM   #11
Rickyh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 40453
Join Date: Jul 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Metairie, Louisiana
Default

Started mine up with 20w50 and drove 3 miles to the dyno where it was subjected to multiple pulls at 28psi. Break that sucker in hard and fast.
Rickyh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2016, 05:19 PM   #12
mrsaturn7085
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 375462
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza WRX STI
WR Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickyh View Post
Break that sucker in hard and fast.
This is the philosophy I've had the best luck with. Assuming a tuned engine (even a conservative, but safe base map), a few hot laps at the track followed by an oil change gets you about 90% of the way there.

The absolute WORST luck I've had, was following the slow-and-steady way of breaking-in rebuilt motors - it only took 2-3 motors having excessive blow-by in 20k miles (post-rebuild) to make me realize this is a lousy way to do it.
mrsaturn7085 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2016, 05:51 PM   #13
bmxhotsauce
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127099
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Vehicle:
02 IMPERZA WRX
BLACK

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STIWRC111 View Post
I just had my motor built with Cosworth pistons, rods, ACL main and rod bearings, and ARP head studs. What oil is recommended and how should I go about breaking it in? I purchased 5W30 NON-synthetic but I was told to go heavier. It hasent been started yet but I'm setting the map to economic to lower the boost for the first 1,000 miles with my acessport.
did you talk to your motor builder?? i would say start there man. get the info from the builder
bmxhotsauce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2016, 06:00 PM   #14
SlamFab
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 437958
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Jackson, NH
Default

If i were you, i'd go to walmart and grab some rotella 15w-40 non synthetic, prime the oil system anyway you can, start it and let it come up to operating temp, then go break it in hard. Couple pulls and engine braking, then change the oil
SlamFab is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2016, 11:57 AM   #15
mrsaturn7085
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 375462
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza WRX STI
WR Blue

Default

Oh yeah - forgot to mention that mineral oil is almost always preferred for the first 2-3 oil changes on break-in!

Here's a few bits of reference info from Cosworth (short block) and Tomei (heads); keep in mind the latter is an EJ207 and will have different oil weight requirements:

COSWORTH Subaru STI Short Block

Before Starting

During the break-in process, we recommend using a high quality API SJ or newer mineral 20W-50 engine
oil. We also recommend using a genuine Subaru oil filter. Do NOT use a synthetic or synthetic blend
during the break-in process. Replace the oil immediately after the break-in procedure or 500 miles
(whichever comes first). We also strongly recommend priming the engine’s oil system before starting. To
do this, make sure there is no fuel or spark by disconnecting either the ECU or by removing the
appropriate fuses and/or relays. Then crank the engine until there is oil pressure registering on an oil
pressure gauge (you or your mechanic must install one). When first starting the engine, be sure to keep
the engine speed above 2000rpm to ensure the tappet buckets and cam lobes have adequate oil

Engine Break-in

It is critical that your Cosworth engine is not started with an excessively rich fuel mixture. An excessively
rich mixture will wash away the oil in the cylinders and the rings can potentially never break-in causing
excessive oil consumption, crankcase blow-by and lower power output. This damage is permanent.
If the engine will be broken in by driving the car, we recommend you keep the engine speed below 4000
rpm. Drive the vehicle at various loads, speeds, and throttle positions while keeping engine speeds below
4000 rpm for approximately 1000 miles or 1660 kilometers. The longer the engine is broken in, the better
your results will be. If breaking your engine in on an engine dynamometer, follow the break in procedure
detailed below. You can use the guideline for a chassis dynamometer as well, but load readings will
differ. If using a chassis dynamometer make sure to keep water temperatures below 95 degrees Celsius
and oil temperatures below 110 degrees Celsius.

• Run at 2000rpm @ 50-60 lbf-ft. load for 20 minutes
• Run at 3500rpm @ 90-100 lbf-ft. load for 20 minutes
• Run at 4250rpm @ 100-110 lbf-ft. load for 10 minutes
• Run at 4250rpm @ 125-135 lbf-ft. load for 5 minutes
• Run at 5500rpm @ 125-135 lbf-ft. load for 5 minutes
• Run at 5700 rpm @ WOT for 2 minutes (not to exceed 300 lbf-ft.)

During the final break-in stage, the boost should be limited so as not to exceed 350 lbf-ft. of torque.
Some initial ECU calibration activity may be required to complete break-in with proper air fuel ratios. The
engine should be calibrated to achieve an air fuel ratio rich enough for the type of fuel you are using.
Consult with a professional tuner if you are unsure of an air fuel ratio the engine requires. Boost should
be regulated so as not to exceed 300 lbf-ft. of torque during the break in process. Once ECU calibration is
complete up to 7000rpm, the short block should be ready for a WOT, full power run throughout the entire
power band.

TOMEI EJ20CCH PHASE2 Heads (for EJ207)

BREAK IN

The basic procedure is to use 15W-50 or 15W-60 Engine Oil, run the engine at low boost, with normal driving for the 1st 300km. After that change the engine oil and oil filter.

Last edited by mrsaturn7085; 03-30-2016 at 12:04 PM.
mrsaturn7085 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
noobie in the oil department! motor break in.. anthonyfur Newbies & FAQs 10 08-10-2009 03:04 PM
new motor...safe to use old tune for motor break in???tuner advice needed!! JT's06sti AccessPort 2 02-21-2009 05:15 PM
wat grade dino oil for built motor break in? jacky599r Built Motor Discussion 23 11-30-2008 04:19 AM
Built motor? Check in here Dakken Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo) 23 02-26-2004 07:04 PM
motor break-in question. DoctorNick Normally Aspirated with bolt-on Forced Induction Powertrain 7 04-12-2003 05:31 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2016 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2016, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.