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Old 06-13-2002, 12:26 PM   #1
Chav
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RSTi

Default Preparing to Install the Link 2

This is an Update from this thread . First I would like to say some things before I start asking more questions . Thank you to everyone that helped me in that thread. I have come to the conclusion as many others have that in order to make reliable power with an ej25 + turbo PEMS (Programmable Engine Management System) is essential! The Link 2 is the PEMS I choose and I ordered it from here This company has been excellent to deal with. I would recommend to everyone to buy the plug and play harness for this ECU if you have $150. I couldn't afford to spend the money for just a harness, but at this point I'm facing the daunting task of soldering 39 wires with my head under the dash. The reason I suggest getting the plug and play harness is because if you ever plan on selling your car you can just un plug and be done with it. Also if something should go wrong with your Link ecu you can always plug in your original ecu and make it home. What I'm going to do is wire in both the stock ecu plugs and the link ecu plug so that if i need to I can still run the stock ecu. I have read through the link manual and I suggest everyone do this before cutting a single wire.

Ok now to the good stuff.

Would you recommend using the internal map sensor or buying the gm map sensor and putting it in the engine bay? I'm wondering if there would be a pressure/vacuum delay between the engine through some 5 feet of vacuum hose.

The only gauge I have so far is the EFI systems a/f gauge and I don't really trust it too much. I was thinking since the Link only uses the rear O2 sensor can I just move it to the front bung and move the unused wideband to the rear. This way the link and my gauge will be more accurate. This may be why the auto tune function hasn't really worked that well since the only reference it has is the rear sensor behind the cats. I wont recieve the turbo kit for another 4-5 weeks. Do you think it is safe to run the link with just the O2 sensor to tune by? I dont plan on running the link for that long maybe just a day to get used to everything, but I dont think it is safe for any long with just a a/f gauge to tune by. Should I wait for the egt?


-Chav
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Old 06-13-2002, 03:30 PM   #2
redmeanie
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911verion2.0TT (soon)

Default Re: Preparing to Install the Link 2

I was thinking since the Link only uses the rear O2 sensor can I just move it to the front bung and move the unused wideband to the rear. This way the link and my gauge will be more accurate.
-Chav [/b][/quote]

If this works out for you let me know...I have the LINK also with the Ludespeed StageIII and RC 440cc Injectors and am starting the install this weekend. If I beat you to it Ill let you know how it works out...Also did you buy your LINK from Andrew? Tom from LUDESPEED has shipped him a Stage III so he will have some fuel maps available soon.....Ill keep you updated and share what I find out with you...
Chuck
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Old 06-14-2002, 11:57 PM   #3
Chav
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Default

Installation complete. Wiring was a pain, but its done. I made one mistake that left the engine running on 3 cylinders, but I traced it back to me wiring the number 1 injector to the injector 8 output on the link. Andrew @ AMR helped me a lot! He walked me through a couple things that needed to be changed. Now that i'm done wiring in the new harness I reinstalled the stock ecu and everything is back to normal.

When I talked to Andrew I asked him about moving the O2 sensor up to the front and he said that he recommends that people do that. Once I get my EGT gauge I'm gonna put the Link back in and begin tuning! Next update will probably come in 4 weeks when the turbo gets here. For now I'm probably gonna mess around with the A/F gauge, find a place for it and wire it up and I'm gonna finish up a couple of jumper wires that I left out. I also have to get a better vacuum line and make holes to mount the link.


-Chav
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Old 06-15-2002, 12:38 PM   #4
skywalker
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Talking

Glad to hear you bought a Link Plus.

As for the internal versus external MAP, I have run both and as long as you keep a single dedicated vacuum line running from the intake to the MAP sensor you will be fine, no matter how long the hose is. Well there is a limit, but I have it running about 8 feet right now.

Like Andrew said move the front O2 to the rear and the rear O2 to the front and this will work much better. If you don't you will have a nightmare trying to tune. Since the O2 readings will be slightly different and it just causes a little more headache.

Happy tuning,
Bill
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:08 AM   #5
Chav
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Default

The pinging is fixed now. I had to pull the timing way back accross the board. It was 21-25 starting at 3000rpms and 60+ kPa. The base map was probably designed for 93, but I'm still running 87 until the turbo goes in. Now I'm running stupid rich except at cruise. Tomorrow the leaning out begins.

-Chav
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:43 AM   #6
skywalker
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Default

Yeah, for the 2000 or 2001 you will need to retard the timing quite a bit from the base map given otherwise you will pin like mad, especially with 87 octane. I bet if you use 91 octane on your NA engine you will notice a difference with regards to timing.

I woudl suggest you to tune your car to 93 octane under NA conditions so that when you install the Turbo the only thing you will have to worry about is timing and fueling while under boost. This will make live a lot easier.
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Old 06-18-2002, 11:15 AM   #7
WRC 555
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I'm N/A right with Link PLus till my kit arrives, and yes the timing does need to be retared a lot. I have a MY99 and with the help of Impreza Rider we got the car to run pretty safe. I'm running on the stock knock sensor and my knock readings are in the range of 4-12. It does reach around 20 when I shift at redline. The knock link does not show anything, no green lights either, jut the dim light to indicate its on. I may need a more sensitive sensor.

One thing I cant get is that right around 4000-4200RPM on WOT there is a jerk. I did reatrd the timing in that zone and it seemed to get better. In 1st and 2nd gear its not that bad, but in 3rd and 4th it really noticeable. Havent tried it in 5th yet

Like skywalker said, it is a better idea to start filling up with 91-93 octane now and tune.
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:01 PM   #8
Chav
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Ya, I have the same knock readings. 6-12 during driving and below 20 at shift. I also have the same jerk at 4000 - 4200 rpms. I'm gonna go get 93 and start retunning.

-Chav
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:05 PM   #9
WRC 555
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I heard from somewhere that the jerk has something to do with Link. I hope thats not the case.

Is everyone with the Link PLus getting this jerk?
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:11 PM   #10
Graham
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So you guys that have put the Link´s in have had to move the front O2 to the rear? That seems like kind of a pain to me, especially since my front O2 is welded into my downpipe....

Chav, did you buy another ECU to wire in the Link or how did you go about getting an extra harness? 39 wires you say, I thought the Link had to be run as a standalone?
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Old 06-18-2002, 03:30 PM   #11
Chav
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Your wideband O2 is welded into your downpipe? Don't they usually weld a bung in to the pipe then screw the O2 into the bung? If it is, I suppose you can take the downpipe out and grind off the welding. Or leave it in and weld in a spot for a Narrow band O2 into the up-pipe.

The way I wired up the Link harness is by cutting the stock wire then soldering the Link wire in line with the stock wire. This way the stock harness remains intact and the Link harness is now connected to the wire. I guess the best way to explain it is the way those tap in connecters work except I soldered my connections. It is actually 42 wires, 39 wires on the schematic, one is a douplicate, so 38 wires and finally 4 have to be jumpered. It isnt that bad as long as you take your time! I spent around 15min per wire in the beginning making sure everything was good. I hooked mine up as a standalone, I dont know how many wires it would have been to hook it up as a piggyback.

I would also like to know if anyone else has the jerk from 4000 rpms. Skywalker have you had this problem? Is there a way to solve it?

-Chav
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Old 06-18-2002, 04:06 PM   #12
WRC 555
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Default

I had Andrew make it plug in for me so installing the unit was easy. I will try find a OEM ecu from somewhere for emergency cases. The hardest part was since my car is MY99 we had to run a vaccum line from the engine bay to the Link since the MAP sensor is internal. I also have to install an ambient temp sensor in the intake pipe once I install my turbo. You guys with MY00,01 already have this so you dont need to worry about it.

Also one thing I noticed is that if your car takes too many cranks to start, specially in cold start, play around with your crank enrichment. Also before I start my car now I turn the key 2 clicks(before ingnition) and wait for a bout 4-5 secs, then crank it. This gives the fuel pump time to prime up. The car starts on 2-3 cranks. Before it would take like 8-9 cranks and stall once on cold starts!
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Old 06-19-2002, 01:00 AM   #13
Chav
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Default

Yea I noticed the exact same thing while cranking. The fuel pump takes a second to cycle so you gotta put the key to the on position wait a sec then crank. I spent the whole day tunning on 93 octane and everything seems ok (rich and pulled back timing) I'm waiting till I get the egt gauge before I start leaning it out anymore.

The 2000-2001 cars will also need to run a vac line since we can not use the stock map sensor. We also have to use the internal map sensor.

Finally I have one major problem. The computer is set to non turbo, map, master fuel at 130, lambda on, and every once in a while I will look over and the computer has pulled my master fuel down from 130 to say 128. One time it pulled it all the way down to 104! This is while the car is running and I'm driving around. What is going on?

-Chav
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Old 06-20-2002, 08:37 PM   #14
PunKidd
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I have the same jerk on my 2002 w/ the Link. Anyone find a fix for this yet? It is really starting to bug me.
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Old 06-20-2002, 10:44 PM   #15
Impreza Rider
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Quote:
Finally I have one major problem. The computer is set to non turbo, map, master fuel at 130, lambda on, and every once in a while I will look over and the computer has pulled my master fuel down from 130 to say 128. One time it pulled it all the way down to 104! This is while the car is running and I'm driving around. What is going on?
Try turning off the Lambda and see if that helps.

With mine, I notice that if you answer "No" to a message box (for saving, store, etc), it will drop the master fuel by one.

oh...and I also have a jerk with mine, but mine is bewtween 1800-2200 rpm. I'm not sure how to fix it...
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Old 06-20-2002, 10:58 PM   #16
Chav
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Ok, I'll try that. I'm now using the new software and I havent noticed the master fuel drop on the last drive. With the new software it still did it earlier today, but it wouldnt go down as much as with the older software.

I'm having two other problems now. When I ease into the throttle the first part will always go lean (way lean like to 0-5 on the oxy sensor). It will stay lean until I push the throttle down further or else it will stay in the this lean spot for a while. I watched the map when this happens and the fuel zone it is in is correct. I know its not the zone because it will go lean like this at different rpms. I tried changing the accel1-accel2 settings, but it seems like they have no affect. I put them both up to 40 and the accel decay up to 40 and I noticed no difference. The other problem I'm having is with the voltage correction. If I turn on my headlights the rpms will drop to 500 because the a/f ratio will go completely lean. I tried adjusting the setting all the way up to 30 and all the way down to 0 and nothing helps.

I talked to Andrew at AMR and he believes this is a warranty issue. Andrew is great! He'll take care of this and I should be good to go.

The last suggestion I have is dont do what the book says about setting the overrun vacuum. I set it down to 12 as per the directions and the car would stall and hard decell. The setting needs to be around 20-22.

-Chav
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Old 06-21-2002, 01:59 AM   #17
Chav
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Ok, I think I found out why the master fuel was dropping. I feel like an ass. On the front of my computer there are buttons to skip, play, stop and whenever the skip button is pushed the master fuel goes down by one point. Oh well I'm glad that is fixed.

Now I just gotta fix the accell and voltage corrections.

-Chav
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Old 06-21-2002, 09:15 PM   #18
PunKidd
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Anyone figure out the Jerk problem yet?
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