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Old 10-17-2010, 01:16 AM   #1
TtotheP
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Default 2007 WRX - Clutch change - DIY vs Shop

Hi,

I've read the "How to: 02/03 clutch and flywheel" post, as well as the sticky about "if you're thinking about buying a clutch", but unfortunately everything seems to have gone stale. All the images are gone, as well as many dead links from the sticky.

It seems like once you get access to the clutch by pulling the engine forward or the transmission backward, the swap is a relative no brainer.

So here are my questions that were unclear from what guides i could find:

Is it difficult to get to this point?
Is unhooking the transmission a pain in the butt?
Is the work generally easy, but just a lot to do under the vehicle?
Or is it very technical, requiring great precision?
Any opinions on DIY and save the money vs just pay a fully equipped shop to do it?


I do plenty of general automotive maintenance (oil, brakes, etc), but I have never dealt with pulling apart a transmission. I also do not have a transmission jack, but I do have an impact wrench. I believe my clutch is just starting to slip, as it will 'hiccup' down a hill if i engage it in 1st and have no brake/e-brake. By hiccup it will hold 5 secs, slip 2-4 inches, and repeat. (same behavior for other gears) I haven't actually noticed any difference driving around yet, and just began to notice this change today.

Thanks!
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Old 10-17-2010, 02:20 AM   #2
kenliu84
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subscribed, I own a 2006 wrx and wondering the same thing. very interested in challenging my mechanical skills and learn more about the trans.
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Old 10-17-2010, 02:40 PM   #3
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We just done it on a lift, everything from unbolting axle, driveshaft, exhaust system was quite simple but lots of nuts and bolts to keep track of. Separating the tranny and engine was definitely the hardest part. Took 4 guys with pry bars to separate them. It might just be my luck on cars where it always give me issues haha. I got a stage 4 fe clutch from southbend if you're interested (hold more than 750lb tq) brand new
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:41 PM   #4
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That's the beauty of the engine-forward method.

There is little to no work to do UNDER the car.

The two engine mount bolts. The rest of the trans to engine bolts can be reached from the engine bay.

Besides that, maybe the lower rad hose is easier to remove from the bottom...but the rest is up top.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:53 PM   #5
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I'll have to read more engine forward DIYs then
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:28 PM   #6
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I pulled the tranny out in 3 hours in my drive way on jacks by myself. Putting it in is a whole different story....in which I will do next week lol
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:34 PM   #7
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I currently own a 2008 impreza 2.5i, but I used to own a 1999 civic lx and changed the clutch with just me and my friend. It was a fair amount of headaches, just because I didn't have all the right tools. I didn't have a lift either. Just put it on jack stands and used my floor jack to lower the transmission. I'd recommend having at least one other person do it with you. Anyways come to find out my ******* friend who said I just needed a new throwout bearing was wrong and I needed to swap out the whole transmission. So I pulled the transmission twice in the same month. The second time around actually went a lot smoother, except for one stripped bolt that took us a whole day to get off (ended up using a dremel and sawed it off).

I don't know if it's actually easier or harder to change the clutch and pull a transmission with the boxer engine. You might just completely disregard everything I said because it's not even the same car or remotely close to the same engine. Whatever, I learned a lot from changing the clutch myself and will definitely do it myself when the time comes on my impreza.

So I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you have the patience and can be without a car for a few days, then do it yourself. You'll feel a lot better about it and will save yourself a fair amount of money.
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:20 AM   #8
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You can swap clutch without losing any fluids, removing any axles, etc. What I would do is place your jack that came with the guy under the front of the engine, not lifting just touching it, will help with realignment later. Not needed step just found it usefull for me when I did it. I also did it on cheap $15 floor jack stands(hell I have taken out the transmission complete with $15 floor jack stands and $50 jack) so you don't need any crazy tools. You should have a torque wrench, engine/tranny bolts get 36ft lbs if am not mistaken.

Pretty simple disconnect driveshaft from rear diff(can leave the driveshaft in tranny), disconnect and remove starter(assuming you already removed IC and disconnect batt, only neg is fine), let starter hang there if you want, remove 6 bolts total if am not mistaken from tranny/engine. Separate them and push it back.(course have a jack under tranny, again doesn't need anything special, I have done it with base jack no tranny jack or anything like that, granted you do have to pay attention more so it doesn't fall). 06+wrx have push clutch so you don't have to release tob it will just come off.

Think thats everything. If I missed something feel free to put it in.
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:47 AM   #9
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Just did it this weekend. I've done it a few times and always tend to replace my engine/trans fluid. There are prob easier ways, but this is the long way and how I do it by myself - having a friend to help makes it easier:

Note: If you do it this way I'd suggest replacing the transmission axles seals and you will need an alignment.

Above the car:
  1. Disconnect battery.
  2. Remove top mount inter cooler.
  3. Remove slave cylinder (tie up and let hang).
  4. Remove starter (uses two of the eight trans/engine bolts; tie and hang).

Under the car:
  1. Drain engine/trans fluids.
  2. Remove the exhaust.
  3. Remove the drive shaft and cover.
  4. Disconnect shift linkage.
  5. Remove transmission cross member.
  6. Place a jack under the trans to support it.
  7. Remove front wheels.
  8. Disconnect lower control arms from front struts.
  9. Pull the axles out of trans (pop them out with small pry bar).
  10. Finish unbolting the other four trans/engine bolts; bottom two nuts.
  11. Slide it back and out.
  12. Install new clutch/flywheel/etc (self explanatory at this point).

Then just put it back together. You may want to organize the bolts/nuts if it's your first time. I just tossed them all in a bag. Done this too many times
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:52 AM   #10
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The only precision work required is aligning the tranny input spline with the bearing, everything else is grunt work. The only real way to mess up (besides not getting the torque specs correct or mixing up bolts) is to get the tranny on the bottom two bolts and pull it in with the nuts. DO NOT DO THAT. If you're not 100% aligned you will push the input spline into the tranny and break it. You should be able to get the tranny in by hand up to 1/2" gap between the tranny and engine. Then use the longer engine bolts in a diagonal pattern to pull it in the rest of the way
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:29 PM   #11
TtotheP
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Thank you for your advice --- it's helpful.
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Old 02-03-2011, 02:36 AM   #12
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So basically, if I am mechanically inclined enough, can a clutch re/re be a one man job at home with 4 jack stands, TRanny support adapter on a 3 ton jack and a bunch or 2x4s impact wrench?
IS the tranny heavy? CAn I bench it in place to mate it with the engine by myself?
(on a side note, I can only bench press 170lbs)
Anyone ever done this job by themselves?
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Old 02-03-2011, 02:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talvai View Post
You can swap clutch without losing any fluids, removing any axles, etc. What I would do is place your jack that came with the guy under the front of the engine, not lifting just touching it, will help with realignment later. Not needed step just found it usefull for me when I did it. I also did it on cheap $15 floor jack stands(hell I have taken out the transmission complete with $15 floor jack stands and $50 jack) so you don't need any crazy tools. You should have a torque wrench, engine/tranny bolts get 36ft lbs if am not mistaken.

Pretty simple disconnect driveshaft from rear diff(can leave the driveshaft in tranny), disconnect and remove starter(assuming you already removed IC and disconnect batt, only neg is fine), let starter hang there if you want, remove 6 bolts total if am not mistaken from tranny/engine. Separate them and push it back.(course have a jack under tranny, again doesn't need anything special, I have done it with base jack no tranny jack or anything like that, granted you do have to pay attention more so it doesn't fall). 06+wrx have push clutch so you don't have to release tob it will just come off.

Think thats everything. If I missed something feel free to put it in.
Be Sure NOT to put METAL TO METAL. its best to jack the engine or place the jack right under the exhaust manifold and NOT the oil pan. Just use a BIG 2x4 or 4x4 and you should be good. This is how I replaced the throwout bearing in my clutch when it went tits up and sheared part off.

It will help with alignment, but the subaru tech manuals actually reccomend taking the whole transmission Out of the car to replace the clutch. They do this by jacking the front of the engine up or lifting it with a engine hoist a bit.
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Old 02-03-2011, 02:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horkus View Post
So basically, if I am mechanically inclined enough, can a clutch re/re be a one man job at home with 4 jack stands, TRanny support adapter on a 3 ton jack and a bunch or 2x4s impact wrench?
IS the tranny heavy? CAn I bench it in place to mate it with the engine by myself?
(on a side note, I can only bench press 170lbs)
Anyone ever done this job by themselves?
WRX Transmission weights in around 200 LBS, a STI Transmission even more (Around 250 I think.)
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:00 AM   #15
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WRX Trans is light, probably 150 at the most. just take your time and make sure that your throwout bearing is aligned!
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:51 AM   #16
talvai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJM View Post
Be Sure NOT to put METAL TO METAL. its best to jack the engine or place the jack right under the exhaust manifold and NOT the oil pan. Just use a BIG 2x4 or 4x4 and you should be good. This is how I replaced the throwout bearing in my clutch when it went tits up and sheared part off.

It will help with alignment, but the subaru tech manuals actually reccomend taking the whole transmission Out of the car to replace the clutch. They do this by jacking the front of the engine up or lifting it with a engine hoist a bit.
You could jack from oil pan if you want. Not first place I would do as if it does get damaged its an expensive repair. I jacked on the crosspipe(cheaper to fix if something happened). You don't need to put wood if you don't want. I jacked metal on metal using the spare jack in the trunk, no problems at all. Your not supporting the entire engine weight your just tilting it so their no issues. If you want to put a piece of wood there on a surface that is round/small with little grip and trust that go for it, but I am willing to pay $200 over crushed hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJM View Post
WRX Transmission weights in around 200 LBS, a STI Transmission even more (Around 250 I think.)
No weigh wrx trann weighs 200lbs. I shipped tranny, rear diff, clutch, flywheel, etc for 150lbs so guessing tranny weighs about 130lbs or so. You can pick it up single handed if you want.
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:23 AM   #17
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Default Pulled my motor twice now.....

2 Hours is our record for out. In took 3-4 hours as we were changing crap around [fmic pipes / intake inlet / ect] will be doing it again as my bearing retainer was gouged up and cost me an ACT clutch. If you are looking to do it yourself make sure you have the retainer piece so you don't wind up having to do it again.

Steve
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJM View Post
WRX Transmission weights in around 200 LBS, a STI Transmission even more (Around 250 I think.)
There is no way this is true. I can comfortably pick up a 5mt by myself. I can pick it up to my stomach and easily move it into the trunk of a car. And I'm a weak fatass.

The 6mt is heavier, but I can still pick it up... barely. When I shipped my last 6mt, I know the freight company had it marked down below 200.
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:00 AM   #19
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So is it a one person job or not??
In my neighbourhood and all of my friends are all white collared people and they just cannot be relied on and I am the only mechanical recline person.
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horkus
So is it a one person job or not??
In my neighbourhood and all of my friends are all white collared people and they just cannot be relied on and I am the only mechanical recline person.
I would strongly recommend not doing it yourself.
get a friend to help.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talvai View Post
You can swap clutch without losing any fluids, removing any axles, etc. What I would do is place your jack that came with the guy under the front of the engine, not lifting just touching it, will help with realignment later. Not needed step just found it usefull for me when I did it. I also did it on cheap $15 floor jack stands(hell I have taken out the transmission complete with $15 floor jack stands and $50 jack) so you don't need any crazy tools. You should have a torque wrench, engine/tranny bolts get 36ft lbs if am not mistaken.

Pretty simple disconnect driveshaft from rear diff(can leave the driveshaft in tranny), disconnect and remove starter(assuming you already removed IC and disconnect batt, only neg is fine), let starter hang there if you want, remove 6 bolts total if am not mistaken from tranny/engine. Separate them and push it back.(course have a jack under tranny, again doesn't need anything special, I have done it with base jack no tranny jack or anything like that, granted you do have to pay attention more so it doesn't fall). 06+wrx have push clutch so you don't have to release tob it will just come off.

Think thats everything. If I missed something feel free to put it in.
Sorry to bump an old thread but I think this method sounds easiest.

Does anyone else replace their clutch in this way?
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:32 PM   #22
Wlkonh2o
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oguitar View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread but I think this method sounds easiest.

Does anyone else replace their clutch in this way?

I'm in the middle of my second time in my 07 and i've been removing all sorts of stuff, haha! His way sounds easy but also sounds like he's doing the install from under the car.. Not enough space for my comfort to do it this way. Exhaust gets in the way, hard to get to the top tranny bolts without removing the tmic, and back to the space thing, i like being able to move the transmission back and down a good 6/8 inches so its touching the firewall.. hard to do with driveshaft and axles attached. the removing of tmic, downpipe-cat, control arms joints, axles, driveshaft really isnt hard it just takes a little bit of time. second time around i had it all ready to crack open the transmission in 2 hours. 2 ton jack, 4 jack stands, 12, 14, 15, and 17 mms sockets, a torque wrench and a little finesse will get the job done.

If you aren't already done with the job and you want the subaru manual for it, PM me i've got it in pdf.
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:01 AM   #23
Itchy But Whole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wlkonh2o View Post
I'm in the middle of my second time in my 07 and i've been removing all sorts of stuff, haha! His way sounds easy but also sounds like he's doing the install from under the car.. Not enough space for my comfort to do it this way. Exhaust gets in the way, hard to get to the top tranny bolts without removing the tmic, and back to the space thing, i like being able to move the transmission back and down a good 6/8 inches so its touching the firewall.. hard to do with driveshaft and axles attached. the removing of tmic, downpipe-cat, control arms joints, axles, driveshaft really isnt hard it just takes a little bit of time. second time around i had it all ready to crack open the transmission in 2 hours. 2 ton jack, 4 jack stands, 12, 14, 15, and 17 mms sockets, a torque wrench and a little finesse will get the job done.

If you aren't already done with the job and you want the subaru manual for it, PM me i've got it in pdf.
Sorry to revive an old thread but I'd like that manual if you still have it
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