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Old 09-03-2010, 03:49 PM   #1
D-NaSty
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Default Noob question on the BC stroker Kit.

I was told by someone at BC that before assemblying the motor, you have to grind down some the lower bore wall. He told me that because of the longer 83mm stroke, there will be some interfence with the bore walls.


Has anyone with the BC stroker kit done this? If so, where exactly does this need to be done and do you have pictures?

I also contact BC, but I thought I would check here too

-Dan
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:45 PM   #2
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You have to clearan e for the tod bolts.
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:29 PM   #3
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I think he was trying to say for the rod bolts...it's really simple to toss on a mill and do nicely or you can just grind it out.

Do it prior to machining and honing.
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:29 PM   #4
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Where does the interfence happen? Have any pics?
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:37 PM   #5
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Sorry, damn phone makes it hard to type in an intelligible manner.

I dont' have a pic now. However the head of the rod bolt tends to want to make contact with the case. The easiest way to clearance is:

Attach two rods and drop crank into block halve with main bearings installed, throw two pistons on without rings and check for interference and clearance as necessary, and then switch halves. If you are really paranoid you can bolt the case halves together and install rods/pistons without rings and turn the whole works over by hand. You want a minimum of .060" between any part of the case and any part of the rotating assy.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:05 PM   #6
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I will do that. Do you remember if you had to grind alot off? Pics would still be great if you could find some, but thanks for all the help
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:39 PM   #7
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My case is apart right now I will see if I can get some pics for ya. I think we took about .060" off the sleeve side of the case and cleaned up some for the throws in the ribing..
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:12 PM   #8
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Thanks pics would be great
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:00 AM   #9
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bump... i still havent done this.... I have put the block together to see where the interfence is, and found out there is a lot. Looks like im going to have to grind off some of the bottom of the wall. Is this what everyone else did? I'm just nervous to do this.
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:05 AM   #10
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Yes, you have to clearance the block. I haven't done an 83mm setup since 06 or 07 so I don't recall where exactly they hit. I'm trying to recall if the webbing clearance was needed for the aluminum rod fitment or for the 83mm crank.
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Old 01-27-2011, 01:42 PM   #11
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Too bad we tossed out our junk block - I would have been able to take pictures of everything. If you can find a local machine shop who's done a couple of strokers they should be able to do it quickly and easily.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harman Motive, Inc. View Post
Too bad we tossed out our junk block - I would have been able to take pictures of everything. If you can find a local machine shop who's done a couple of strokers they should be able to do it quickly and easily.
I have the remnants of my 2.7 laying around. I will grab some pics for you.
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:34 PM   #13
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thanks martinSTi05!!!
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:18 PM   #14
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did everyone just use a grinding stone?
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:52 PM   #15
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Di grinder/carbide burr/flap wheel. Or a Bridgeport.

BTW still working on picks.
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-NaSty View Post
did everyone just use a grinding stone?
I've used carbide cutters on Hondas. Used a Bridgeport on the EJ block.
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:35 PM   #17
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Im also doing a BC stroker and would like to see how a knoched block looks cause Im having a shop do it and its there first time doing a stroker. Like to see some pics.
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:21 PM   #18
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you're taking it to a machine shop that's never clearanced a block and they can't figure out the simply step by themselves?

...go somewhere else.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
you're taking it to a machine shop that's never clearanced a block and they can't figure out the simply step by themselves?

...go somewhere else.

No what I meant by that is my builder never assembeled a stroker yet and I just want to see a pic of how a knoched block looks so when I go there I have some kind of clue. Im being really paranoid about this build and want to make sure that everything is done right. I also ask alot of questions so that I know what his every step is when putting back together my long block and that I know every little detail about my build.

I cant wait to get in my ride
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:37 PM   #20
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well I don't have any pics of the clearance work done.

So I assume if you are seeing the block halves apart, you're doing the assembly?
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:47 PM   #21
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Tommorrow I will have them. Sorry for the delay gents.
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:16 PM   #22
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The piston skirts hit the main web at BDC... Manley has a complete rotating kit that clears, 83mm with the correct skirt design to clear.

RPG
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:57 PM   #23
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bump for some pics
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:27 PM   #24
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here are your pics. It appears to me that no clearance work was done to accommodate the rod bolts. However ther may have been some work done to accommodate the throws of the crank. You can see the area I am talking about in the third pic directly in between the cylinders.


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Old 02-07-2011, 02:54 PM   #25
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you can see it a little in the first pics too. Just to clearance the cap.
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