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Old 09-03-2010, 06:31 PM   #1
cosmothunder
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Member#: 232977
Join Date: Dec 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Delaware
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
Silver

Default most likely need an engine build

first the car: 02 wrx, it was an intake, new oem turbo, catless uppipe, turboback and stage 2 tune.

white smoke out the back, big puffs of air coming out of the oil filler cap, oil consumption. i havent run a compression test yet but i feel it will reveal the worst, bad rings and once its apart maybe bad bearing. so im most likely looking at an engine build here. if i do end up going through with it im not looking for major power. in the end i still only want to run the stock turbo and keep my stock trans. i want it to be still reliable for everyday driving, looking to be able to get a ton more miles outta the car without, realistically speaking, ever running into this problem. so if you guys have any input as to the fact im new to engine builds please give me some advice guys. thanks everyone
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Old 09-03-2010, 06:37 PM   #2
paintbing
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Location: Utah --> Monterey, CA
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2003 WRX - Hybrid
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compresison test first - This will help point you in the right direction. If a cylinder is low, you then move onto a leakdown to pinpoint where the compression is going (ie valves, rings, Headgasket). Once you do these, it will greatly narrow your options on what's wrong with the car and what needs to be fixed.

I'm doing my build the right way, but It's costing me a ton.
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Old 09-03-2010, 06:39 PM   #3
cosmothunder
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i want to do mine the right way too, what are you doing in the build? how much is it costing you?
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:02 PM   #4
paintbing
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To start, I had a bad piston(cracked ringland). So since I also had too high of compression (dang hybrid) I needed to fix the heads so keep in mine some of my cost is part of the head work.

Anywho this is what I ended up doing:
On the Heads:
- Clean, disassembled, washed, decked
- Upgrade to ARP studs
- multi-angle valve job
- Mild combustion chamber deshrouding
- Inserts for all 4 spark plugs (minor cracks from threads to valves)

Work on the block:
- Decked surfaces (you likely don't need it)
- honed 20 over to accept 100mm pistons
- Upgraded to 2618 forged JE pistons (new rings inlcuded)
- Tanked/cleaned
- Upgraded rod bolts (not case bolts)
- Measuring for tolerance
- Thread repair/helicoil on 5 threads - All but 1 are just precationary for threads marred by dirty bolts. 1 for the power steering bolt that is too short; 1 for the top PS pump bracket, 1 water pump housing bolt, 1 stripped bolt on rear plate cover, and the last one is for the timing idler pulley (the lower one that is a pita to put in last with the belt in place).

The machine bill for ALL the above will be ~$2,600. Of that labor is $1,690 and $910 in parts(ARP bolts, pistons, rings, inserts).

Notice I'm not touching the bearings, rods, crank - Mine are still in really good condition and so I'm not replacing these. (I should at least do the bearings, but they would likely cost a lot more to properly gap etc...)

Now I also am into misc stuff (gaskets, o-rings, fluids, rags, gloves, etc...) another $500. You'll need new headgaskets, likely a gasket rebuild kit, timing belt, oil pump, water pump, and other misc stuff depending on the age. Don't forget that buckets to set the lash are ~$17/each and your old ones likely won't fit anymore. (Wait I see you have an 02 - You likely have shims and I 'THINK' they are only like $8/each from the dealer...)

Start making a shopping list on what you WANT to do vs what you NEED to do. If you go hybrid (ie just buy an OEM EJ257 shortblock) you need to fix the compression with combustion chamber work on the head (~$400 base price plus all other machining/cleaning etc) or go with low compression pistons.

I'm off work now, so that's all I'm going to add for now. Welcome 3-day weekend!
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:31 PM   #5
cosmothunder
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alright so ive been reading through alot of threads now and im still not sure what i want to do. the whole engine will be dismantled so nows the time to do anything i want. i dont plan on running a bigger than factory turbo right now but possibly in the future so i want it to be ready to handle it all. i know while its apart to swap in new pistons but at rods worth it? anything else to upgrade while in there????
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:29 PM   #6
mtcs
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2000 Drag RSTi
8.96 @ 163

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In the past I have had the issues you are having....
But they were from multiple things though.

1st time I had a smoking catch can and when you had the cap off the oil fill tube, it would smoke. Turned out to be a blown HG + a lot of blowby.

2nd time, I had a lot of smoke/oil coming out of the exhaust and the catch can was once again smoking. Turned out that piston 3 had some foreign particle in there and it destroyed my skirts and smooshed the hell out of my oil ring. So oil was going past the rings. COnsumed a lot of oil too!

Both separate instances, these were on built blocks.

Engine building takes experience. If you assemble/disassemble EJ blocks a lot, you will learn how to do it right. It took me four engines in two years to realize that building a high performance short block should be kept to the professionals. AMS FTW
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:52 PM   #7
paintbing
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I do my own stunts

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtcs View Post
Engine building takes experience. If you assemble/disassemble EJ blocks a lot, you will learn how to do it right. It took me four engines in two years to realize that building a high performance short block should be kept to the professionals. AMS FTW
I think the correct thing to say here is, Engine building takes a GOOD machine shop and CLEAN assembly rooms.

I've heard and read about a bunch of people that have assembled their own engine (first time) and if you can read a cookbook and follow directions, you will be fine.

If I had to guess, you may have taken shortcuts and might not have been clean as you should (plus maybe a poor tune?) which caused your issues. I've had my share of moments where my actions were detrimental to my build. All from shortcuts and not being as clean as I should be. I too have learned.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:53 PM   #8
mtcs
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Join Date: May 2008
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Location: Avon, NY
Vehicle:
2000 Drag RSTi
8.96 @ 163

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by paintbing View Post
I think the correct thing to say here is, Engine building takes a GOOD machine shop and CLEAN assembly rooms.

I've heard and read about a bunch of people that have assembled their own engine (first time) and if you can read a cookbook and follow directions, you will be fine.

If I had to guess, you may have taken shortcuts and might not have been clean as you should (plus maybe a poor tune?) which caused your issues. I've had my share of moments where my actions were detrimental to my build. All from shortcuts and not being as clean as I should be. I too have learned.
On all my blocks I took my time.
I thought I was doing it the right way...
I had a clean room for assembly. Used plastigauge to determine my clearance. Used a set of micrometers that were able to measure the crank/rod/and cylinder bore surfaces. I think it was just my bad luck with the car. Ive built a few stock block subaru short blocks in the past and have never had an issue. So it's just my luck on this drag build.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:17 PM   #9
cosmothunder
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2002 WRX
Silver

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so i think ive decided on what i want to do for the engine build, mind you brand has not been chosen yet but would love suggestions. pistons, rings, rods, bearings if neccasary and gaskets/seals where needed, headwork(cleaning and adjsuting valves). if my understanding is correct this should sustain 300 - 350 whp in the future for me but right now im on stock turbo
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