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Old 09-10-2010, 11:30 PM   #1
Camlee98
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Default JDM swap runs like crap HELP!

JDM 2.5 DOHC swap with a running USDM of the same.(Had oil leaks)
Used the intake and exaust mani, sensors, and accesories from the USDM.
Replaced Timing componets, Timing belt, spark plugs, wires, oil seperator plate and major seals all new.
Mech. was a subie tech for 15 plus years that opened his own shop.
Did the swap started it up and it runs like crap.
He checked the compression and it's 205 across the board. From what I've heard this is normal for a JDM engine.
Would love to hear from anyone who's done this swap and anyone else who has thoughts or suggestions on what the heck is going on.
Anyone know if the timing marks are the same for the JDM vs. the USDM?
Thanks for the help in advance!
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Old 09-11-2010, 09:48 AM   #2
Patrick Olsen
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Can you be more specific on "runs like crap"? Will it idle? If it won't idle on its own, will it run if you give it gas?
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:18 PM   #3
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You swapped out an engine because of oil leaks?
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tzedek View Post
You swapped out an engine because of oil leaks?
I swap out my engine every oil change.
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:47 PM   #5
69subaru360
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If it has good compression, the problem is likely not with the longblock you bought. Something could be wrong with existing parts from old engine or installation problems.

You need to define crap. What is the exact issue?
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr3w View Post
I swap out my engine every oil change.
I've owned cars where that is almost the truth.
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Old 09-11-2010, 03:14 PM   #7
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MAF, O2, something like that, one part, crap operation if bad.
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Old 09-11-2010, 10:05 PM   #8
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I'm not going to get into the changing the engine because of oil leaks it's a long story.
I haven't heard it run but he said it runs rough and as if it had a bad valve yet compression is good so no bad valves. He did tell me today that he never swapped the cam and crank postition sensors.(these are still jdm) Any idea if that would cause this? He feels that it shouldn't. He also said he doesn't get and codes but he does get a flashing check engine light?
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:11 AM   #9
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pull the code? and fix the issue. Seems to me like crank/cams sensors.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:21 AM   #10
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Flashing check engine light is bad juju, something major enough to roast a cat out of the car. Have your mechanic pull the codes.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:51 AM   #11
Camlee98
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I can only assume that he knows that the flashing check light is a code. I'm not sure why he didn't mention what that code was if he even looked it up? I'm gonna have to go tomorrow and mabey get some video to post up. Will just swapping the cam and crank sensors rule them out or is a bigger job then that?
This whole project has been BAD JUJU! I'm at the point now that if it doesn't get resolved I'm just gonna eat the cost of the engine and get one from a local yard and be done with it!
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:18 PM   #12
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If he pulls the code it will point him in the direction of where to go.

I think i read on here that the JDM cam and crank sensors are different then USDM. not 100% sure on that.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:30 PM   #13
Patrick Olsen
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Swapping out the crank and cam sensors would seem to be a logical place to start, just to rule them out. I don't imagine they're the cause, either, but it should only take a matter of minutes to swap them.

The flashing CEL indicates a misfire, which I'm sure your 15-year Subaru mechanic knows. (Right?) That makes me wonder if maybe the trigger pattern on the driver side intake cam (the one that has the cam sensor) or the trigger pattern on the crank sprocket are different than the USDM ones. I didn't swap either of those when I did my JDM engine swap, but that doesn't mean that there aren't some JDM engines with different trigger patterns.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:34 PM   #14
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Yea the computer will tell you where to look, if it the sensors the code most likely will be p0300 for random miss fires. (flashing light represents miss fires) if it's a valve issue you would have a individual cylinder code (ex p0301 cyl1 missfire) but it still could be something else. With out pulling codes and talking to the computer it's just guessing.

Possible causes for rough running after engine swap:
Bent pin on electrical connector
Faulting sensors/sensor compatibility(even trigger wheel pattern)
Faulty knock sensor-personal experience
Intake leak or Leaking intake gasket
Poor grounds
(un-proper spark plug gap or "dropped"/ damaged plugs) I've gotten bad ones out the box! WTF.... napa!
But it could be anything really. Remember it's just nuts and bolts...and Bad juju is for chevys haha

I hope you figure it out and let us know how it goes!
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:08 PM   #15
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I spoke with the mech. this morning. He's gonna swap out the cam and crank sensors today and try it. If that doesn't do it he'll then swap the crank sprocket and so on. I hope this does it! Thanks for all the input!
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:48 PM   #16
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He screwed up the timing when he did the timing belt. What you are describing to me sounds like it's off a tooth.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:59 PM   #17
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I would have him swap the cam gears and crank gear and then retime it. Assuming the code is not specifically for cam or crank sensor failure (which will also flash the CEL light), the flashing CEL is most likely misfiring due to incorrect timing.

Jay
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:33 PM   #18
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That's the plan Jay. I figure we can start with the least expensive item. (The sensors) I know my sensors are good bought new last year. Then if that doesn't work he's swapping cam and crank gears. I'll know tomorrow if it was a success!
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:49 AM   #19
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Food for thought, one wrong twist when removing an otherwise good cam/crank sensor will break it inside.

He can visually compare the crank timing gear (counting the reluctors) and likely checked the reluctor layout on the camgear, but it never hurts to double/triple check, especially when problems arise from an otherwise straight forward swap.

Jay
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:32 PM   #20
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Your steering wheel is on the wrong side and the engine knows it. You confused the crap out of the poor thing.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:46 PM   #21
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I might have only owned my subaru a couple of months and never drove it. Ive done a few engine swaps on MR2s and supras. If someone came up to me and said my MR2 runs crap. I would tell him, check your MAF, check your Timing and check your coils (distributor). first pull codes. sometimes most handheld OBD readers wont read those JDM ECUs but the dealerships OBD reader can. call them for a quick CEL code check.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:16 PM   #22
Camlee98
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Spoke with him today he swapped the sensors last night and as expected had no luck. He's gonna pull the usdm cam and crank gears and see if the triggers match up. I hope they don't that would give me a little hope that swapping them will solve the issue.
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Old 09-15-2010, 05:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camlee98 View Post
Spoke with him today he swapped the sensors last night and as expected had no luck. He's gonna pull the usdm cam and crank gears and see if the triggers match up. I hope they don't that would give me a little hope that swapping them will solve the issue.
Do you have a picture of the motor. I can tell you just by looking at it.
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:21 PM   #24
Camlee98
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Matt No I don't and his shop is about 30 mins from home. Have you had a JDM engine with a different trigger pattern?
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:02 PM   #25
Camlee98
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Well he pulled the crank and cam gears from the old engine and matched them up to the new engine. They do match up so this is not the cause. He's going to do a leak down test and another compression test tonight to see if he missed anything the first time. He and myself are out of ideas. If anyone has anything else or would like to talk with him PM me and I'll give you his number. He's open to speaking with someone who has swapped these engines in the past. I'm at the point where I need to either have my old engine rebuilt, buy another used engine, or find out what's causing this issue. It's gonna be a shame to have to scrap a $1000 dollar engine but I'm not sure I have a choice anymore!
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