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Old 09-12-2010, 01:01 AM   #1
Inane Cathode
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Default 96 EJ22- What freaking black connector?

I've got what i hope to be an easy question to someone in the know. I've read muuuuultiple sources that say that way to reset a pre-denso (jecs) computer is to connect the 'green test mode connectors' together that are 'under the steering column' and connect the black 'read connectors' together that are also 'under the steering column'. According to my wiring diagrams, all that connecting the green connectors basically does is ground pin 74 (or is is 75?).

Heres the problem i'm running into. I've got a MY96 impreza (motor and ecu, whole kit is stuffed into a volkswagen, long story) and they are obd II, correct? What i'm having trouble finding is where that stupid black connector GOES TO. I find *no* mention of it in any of my factory service manual pdfs (bought from subaru, no worries) even in the 'heres where all the plugs are' pictures all it shows is the test mode connector, no read code connectors.

If this car has a JECS, than everything i read says you have to do the connector dance (the battery dance doesnt work, i've tried that already) but i dont *have* the connector from everything i've read. The JECS ecu supposedly has volatile memory so you can just yank the power from it and it, but i've read the denso ecu doesnt have volatile memory so a hard reset can only be done through a flash procedure.

My question is this: Where does that black connector go? All i have is the ecu, harness, and engine, i dont have the car or the complete harness to chase the black wire around on. More completely, how do i reset an MY96 ej22 ecu because un-powering it doesnt seem to be working.

I've read so much conflicting information i really need help sorting this out. Thanks
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:18 PM   #2
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I know its not a very interesting problem, im just trying to straighten out this god d- annoying fluctuating idle. You name it, i've cleaned it, replaced it, or checked it with my meter.

I need to look at the data stream on this thing, i think that'll tell me what's gong on with the stupid thing.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:08 AM   #3
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It should be obdII so can you connect an obdII code reader to the diagnostic port? If so then you can reset the ecu by using the code reader to clear any codes. My old 96 obs could be reset by disconnecting the battery and depressing the brake pedal to drain all remaining power so I am not sure about your specific situation.

-Jereme
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:37 AM   #4
Inane Cathode
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Unplugging the battery and depressing the brake doesnt seem to send it into relearn mode. I can use my handheld el-cheapo scan tool to clear and read codes, but that's it.

I'll summarize again, i dont think i've ever been able to actually hard reset the computer, just clear codes. Not once has it idled funny after doing any of the clearing methods i've looked up, save for the 'connect the black connector together and play with the gas pedal' dance there IS NO black connector in it.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:46 AM   #5
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96 should be a JECS OBD-II, so unplugging the ECU for awhile should work... Usually I leave my off overnight to make sure it resets. I'll go check tomorrow for a black connector.

How are you verifying whether it reset or not?
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:26 AM   #6
Inane Cathode
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renyo View Post
96 should be a JECS OBD-II, so unplugging the ECU for awhile should work... Usually I leave my off overnight to make sure it resets. I'll go check tomorrow for a black connector.

How are you verifying whether it reset or not?
Well i've read that it'll act funny after its actually reset. Trouble idling at first, check engine light might flash 1hz or so. I suppose i'm also after a good method to see if its actually reset or not.

The thing about the connector is, i see it in pictures all over about the pre-denso ecus, but my wiring harness diagrams don't even mention it so i'm totally in the dark.
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:39 AM   #7
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I'll look in my actual car tomorrow for it...

In all the times I've reset my ECU I've never seen it have trouble idling or seen the CEL flash.

I know if you hook up some of the connectors it's supposed to make the ECU flash any codes it has, but I thought that was pre OBD-2.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:10 PM   #8
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I believe that my96 retains some of the older features, including the code flash. Specifically, it's supposed to flash the check engine light quickly when the test mode connector is plugged in (mine does, all the relays cycle) then when the black read connector is plugged in the light flashes once a second and theres some dance you have to do with the gas pedal.
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:52 PM   #9
renyo
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So, mine has 2 black connectors under the dash; they don't connect though.

One is a two pole connector, has a white and blue/yellow wire that looks like it comes from the brake pedal. The other is a four pole connector that has an orange, blue/yellow, white, and blue wire on it. I have no clue where it goes.

On the other hand, my ECUs programming is a little different than yours, so if you are supposed to have two black connectors, that might be why (it's got the multiple address read SSM protocol, where I don't think the 96s do).
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:53 PM   #10
Inane Cathode
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renyo View Post
So, mine has 2 black connectors under the dash; they don't connect though.

One is a two pole connector, has a white and blue/yellow wire that looks like it comes from the brake pedal. The other is a four pole connector that has an orange, blue/yellow, white, and blue wire on it. I have no clue where it goes.

On the other hand, my ECUs programming is a little different than yours, so if you are supposed to have two black connectors, that might be why (it's got the multiple address read SSM protocol, where I don't think the 96s do).
The who and the what now? Do you have a jecs computer?
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
Unplugging the battery and depressing the brake doesnt seem to send it into relearn mode. I can use my handheld el-cheapo scan tool to clear and read codes, but that's it.

I'll summarize again, i dont think i've ever been able to actually hard reset the computer, just clear codes. Not once has it idled funny after doing any of the clearing methods i've looked up, save for the 'connect the black connector together and play with the gas pedal' dance there IS NO black connector in it.
When you cleared the codes, you reset the ecu. That's how it works.
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:24 PM   #12
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....and when the codes are erased by a reset, it's in learning mode. There isn't anything to specifically tell you it is. If you hook the cheapo OBDII reader to the port and do a "readyness check", you'll get "NOT READY" for various things until it's relearned the typical parameters.

What are we trying to accomplish anyway?

Jay
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
The who and the what now? Do you have a jecs computer?
Sorry. Yes it's a JECS it's just newer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post
When you cleared the codes, you reset the ecu. That's how it works.
Clearing the codes resets the learning parameters?
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renyo View Post
Clearing the codes resets the learning parameters?
Yes it does.
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:28 AM   #15
Inane Cathode
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
....and when the codes are erased by a reset, it's in learning mode. There isn't anything to specifically tell you it is. If you hook the cheapo OBDII reader to the port and do a "readyness check", you'll get "NOT READY" for various things until it's relearned the typical parameters.

What are we trying to accomplish anyway?

Jay
Oh. Hmm, well alright that's helpful The cheapo scanner does have some 'readiness' numbers. Can't actually see what's 'ready' but, there they are.

I'm trying to accomplish fixing my !@&$*(@ fluctuating idle issue. I've cleaned/checked/replaced almost every sensor i can afford to and its still fluctuating quite readily.

The frustration i'm having is, it's doing it for a reason and i cant find out what it's seeing that i'm not seeing. Just throwing parts at it, guess and checking, hasnt worked until now. I've got a cable coming that is supposedly compatible with my ecu, and theres a few opensource logging tools so perhaps i can see through the computer that way.

I dunno, jay, fluctuating idle, what causes that :P try to think of the most obscure thing you possibly can because by this point i've done all the easy stuff haha
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:13 AM   #16
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Maybe your alternator is going bad?
Don't know if you've already checked it though. (Probably did)

That's probably the most obscure thing I can think of.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:32 AM   #17
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That's pretty obscure, and its in line with a thought i had tonight. I could have a power or ground problem and for some reason its coming up as this finer problem. I'll check for v-drops across the ground, check for harness voltage when the car is running. I have every powered thing on the engine (o2 sensors, maf sensors, etc) all daisy chained off one wire, maybe it needs to be relay isolated. I also dont have a dedicated ground strap from the engine to the chassis, although i think the block being connected to the transmission with a solid aluminum plate grounds it alright, but its worth checking out.

I also bought an ECT, worth a shot i suppose.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:45 AM   #18
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Here's an obscure thought, you're using a complete Subaru powertrain (harness wise) right? If it's complete enough to get results with an OBDII scanner, hop over to a dealer and have them run a SSM (Subaru Select Monitor) check. It's much more thorough than an OBDII scanner.

The power/ground issues may be a culprit, as well as just dirty signals or interference from various sensors. Run a ground from the block and the intake manifold directly to the chassis. Also, separate relays on some of the different powered items would be a good idea. What we think should be a good enough signal path, often times isn't.

Good luck,
Jay
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:32 PM   #19
Inane Cathode
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Alright so, no power or ground issues that i can find. No voltage drops of any significance anywhere.

So i put the volt meter on the upstream o2 sensor and got the following voltage:
Voltage goes from .796v when the car idles way up, and .830v-.820v as it starts to idle down lower and lower.

So... What does that mean? I know it means it's lean so, what does the computer do with that? It doesnt look like it's lazy, but, why is it holding lean like that?
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
Alright so, no power or ground issues that i can find. No voltage drops of any significance anywhere.

So i put the volt meter on the upstream o2 sensor and got the following voltage:
Voltage goes from .796v when the car idles way up, and .830v-.820v as it starts to idle down lower and lower.

So... What does that mean? I know it means it's lean so, what does the computer do with that? It doesnt look like it's lazy, but, why is it holding lean like that?
You might have a leak in the intake past the MAF that you havent found. Like a hairline crack or something.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:50 PM   #21
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Alright so, with the artificial leaning/riching tests:

Artificially leaning it by yanking a large vacuum line leads to the o2 sensor output immediately dropping to .150v or so, hovering around there, engine obviously laboring to keep running. Plug line back in, voltage goes right back up to .830v or so

Artificially richening it (thats a word, isnt it?) by pinching off the return line from the fuel rail the voltage starts at .830v or so, as soon as the line is pinched it goes up to .850 and stays there rock solid.

For giggles i wedged the throttle open and had it up off idle at 2500 rpm or so and tested the o2 sensor, it fluctuated like it should, between near 0v to .8 volts or so, back and forth and all over. Once back on idle its back to .850 volts all the time.

So, it's rich at idle... Why? Return line isnt plugged, new ect sensor, o2 sensors apparently working alright, what gives?

Theres no hairline cracks in the intake, i completely soaked everything in starting fluid and it ran the same as it always does, intake is sealed fine. It only runs poorly on idle closed loop.
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:06 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
....and when the codes are erased by a reset, it's in learning mode. There isn't anything to specifically tell you it is. If you hook the cheapo OBDII reader to the port and do a "readyness check", you'll get "NOT READY" for various things until it's relearned the typical parameters.

What are we trying to accomplish anyway?

Jay
BTW, no, it doesnt change the readiness i just went out and checked it. Plugged in the code reader, it said "4 ready" then went on to list misfire o2 sensors, o2 heaters, and something else i cant remember.

Erased the codes, re-read the computer, it said "4 ready" then went to list all the same things. Nothing else in the menu changed, it's not reset, just no codes.
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
BTW, no, it doesnt change the readiness i just went out and checked it. Plugged in the code reader, it said "4 ready" then went on to list misfire o2 sensors, o2 heaters, and something else i cant remember.

Erased the codes, re-read the computer, it said "4 ready" then went to list all the same things. Nothing else in the menu changed, it's not reset, just no codes.
The way I read that is if the codes are erased during a reset it does that. This doesn't agree with what 360 said though, so idk.

By the way, what should the o2 sensors be reading?
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:38 PM   #24
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The way I read that is if the codes are erased during a reset it does that. This doesn't agree with what 360 said though, so idk.

By the way, what should the o2 sensors be reading?
Well i'm not sure now after testing it. Heres what i did:
Reset the codes and key on again, and i get the following:

3 Incomplete monitors
-Catalyst
-O2 Sensor
-O2 Heater

3 Ready monitors
-Misfire
-Fuel
-Comprehensive monitor

Then i started it and took off for a drive. About 5 minutes, 45-55 mph or so. Pulled in and left it running, checked it with the code reader again and got the following:

2 Incomplete monitors
-O2 sensor
-Catalyst

4 Ready monitors
-Misfire
-Fuel
-Comprehensive monitor
-O2 sensor heater

Sooooo, maybe it did reset it but why arent the o2 sensor and catalyst monitors coming online?
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:22 PM   #25
renyo
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If you only took it for one 5 minute drive, there might be a chance it just hasn't completed the tests...
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