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Old 09-18-2010, 01:51 PM   #1
polarisboy385
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Default end of year cleaning/ detailing

Ahh the autumn season. A time for leaf color change, cooler days longer nights and yes.. my annual cleaning of my vehicel

I've done this before for my previous vehicle (truck) to keep it looking nice longer, and smelling good too.

Basically ive:
-cleaned every nook and cranny and piece of weather stripping on each door
- vacummed.everything I could
-rented a steam cleaner and cleaned the carpets matts seats and headliner
- sprayed everything with febreeze
-armor alld my entire interior plastic
-rainx fogged my windows
....basically, do you guys have any more reccomendations of what I should do ???? I was thinking maybe some water proofspray(as I ski in the winters)

Next week I plan on washing claying and hard waxing the car... do you guys have any ressomendations of decent inexpensive hard wax I can pick up at autozone?
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Old 09-18-2010, 02:20 PM   #2
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Hard wax?

What do you mean?
A paste wax as opposed to liquid?
Synthetic vs. pure carnauba?

I used to use Meguiar's NXT 2.0 as a sealant and top it with Meguiar's Gold Class or #26 for a deep wet look.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:20 PM   #3
polarisboy385
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Haha I thought that's what it was called I guess. I was comparing it to something like meguiars cleaner wax, I've noticed that stuff is soft. And seems to wash away quick! I was looking for something that might last through a north east winter better
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisboy385 View Post
I was looking for something that might last through a north east winter better
Collinite No. 845.

My car beaded from Thanksgiving until the first week in March through the Rochester, NY winters with merely touchless washes every week or two.
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:17 PM   #5
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We are pretty local(ish) to you it seems but an OTC option is the collinite waxes if you can find them. 845 is actually the liquid and is easy to apply when applied thin and can actually last quite a while.

Otherwise Finish Kare 1000P is a paste sealant and Finish Kare 2180 is a liquid sealant and are the first 2 thing we reach for in our winter preps to last through WNY winters. We always use one of these either as a standalone or as a base layer to any other wax of your choice, though to get the best results 2180 should be applied by machine.

Easy to apply(thin) and leaves the finish slicker that anything we have ever used and 1000P has always outlasted every other sealant both liquid or paste we have ever tested, lol and we have used just about everything available. The best part about this sealant is the fact you can get the whole applicator in the tin and it leaves the finish slick enough that regular washing, or washing with Optimum no Rinse in the winter allows the finish to be cleaned super easily.
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:20 PM   #6
polarisboy385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAesthetica View Post
We are pretty local(ish) to you it seems but an OTC option is the collinite waxes if you can find them. 845 is actually the liquid and is easy to apply when applied thin and can actually last quite a while.

Otherwise Finish Kare 1000P is a paste sealant and Finish Kare 2180 is a liquid sealant and are the first 2 thing we reach for in our winter preps to last through WNY winters. We always use one of these either as a standalone or as a base layer to any other wax of your choice, though to get the best results 2180 should be applied by machine.

Easy to apply(thin) and leaves the finish slicker that anything we have ever used and 1000P has always outlasted every other sealant both liquid or paste we have ever tested, lol and we have used just about everything available. The best part about this sealant is the fact you can get the whole applicator in the tin and it leaves the finish slick enough that regular washing, or washing with Optimum no Rinse in the winter allows the finish to be cleaned super easily.

Would collinite or finish kare be more cost effective. For someone on a budget and where would be the best possible source to find some of these products
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:23 PM   #7
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You shouldn't steam clean the headliner btw, it will cause the glue to release and the headliner to droop
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vms150 View Post
You shouldn't steam clean the headliner btw, it will cause the glue to release and the headliner to droop
Excellent advise^

I sweep it [headliner],then use warm soapy water to scrub it down.

Also,unbolt your seats,then sweep floor.
Stuff is hidden that can only get accessed
once seats are up.

Personally,I have to replace my carpet once per year.
I remove everything bolted down,take old carpet out,do intense turbo vac,then use a bleach based cleaning solution to scrub down,replace carpet with new,go under console with turbo vac ,from shifter to arm rest under belly etc...
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Old 09-18-2010, 08:47 PM   #9
polarisboy385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GARGOYLE View Post
Excellent advise^

I sweep it [headliner],then use warm soapy water to scrub it down.

Also,unbolt your seats,then sweep floor.
Stuff is hidden that can only get accessed
once seats are up.

Personally,I have to replace my carpet once per year.
I remove everything bolted down,take old carpet out,do intense turbo vac,then use a bleach based cleaning solution to scrub down,replace carpet with new,go under console with turbo vac ,from shifter to arm rest under belly etc...
Good call on that, i won't do that again, as far as the carpet goes that would be way too expensive for me..... why do you replace yours?
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisboy385 View Post
Would collinite or finish kare be more cost effective. For someone on a budget and where would be the best possible source to find some of these products
You might be able to find Collinite locally, I think it depends on the area and which store chains have picked them up. I think list price is around 16 dollars for a pint bottle of the 845. I would say look at what you have and if they carry it it should be on the shelves.

Finish Kare is not OTC but the paste sealant 1000P is $16.00 for 15oz(HUGE amount) and the #2180 anti static liquid sealant is $17 for a pint as well.

So with 1000P probably able to last you a couple lifetimes it's the most cost effective but all 3 are easily the best bang for buck on the market from a durability standpoint.

We carry for both Collinite and FK if you can't find the Collinite and we are right down the 90 from you .
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Old 09-19-2010, 02:18 AM   #11
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Klasse All in One should be available locally.

It cleans, polishes, seals, all in one.
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisboy385 View Post
Good call on that, i won't do that again, as far as the carpet goes that would be way too expensive for me..... why do you replace yours?
I look for part outs on every single Impreza based forum,with the intention of a long road trip to purchase.
Since 08[when I bought one of the last new 07's] I have had 2 slightly used
OE carpet pieces to replace the prior.
One was $25 ,the 2nd was $40.

I wear my side out real fast,because I don't like floor mats.
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:00 PM   #13
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Bump found collinite at advanced.... any tips on using the stuff?
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:21 PM   #14
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Oops double post cause my phone is dumb
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:43 PM   #15
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Bump.....
I've looked arouind the net for how to work with it, and everyone talks about electric orbital buffers... I don't have one and don't have the money for one right now....
How long should I work it for, and how should I apply it (like cleaner wax- apply then. Let dry and buff? Or should I just work it till it dissapears?) I need some answers fast as I'm detailing my car first thing in the morning
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:15 PM   #16
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Collinite 845 is not a cleaner wax and does not need to be worked in, only applied *thin*. You do not need a polisher to get max benefits from this wax. I like to work things in by machine but thats just me.

Collinite waxes can sometimes be bit tricky if the weather is humid(which right now in WNY is not so no worries). You can apply to the whole car (thin) then just start right back at your first section removing it. That should give it enough time to cure and dry to be able to be removed easily.

Shake the snot out of the bottle first, it should be runny(not thick gel like which is probably is right now). You can also rest the bottle in warm water for a little while, it literally should be liquid. This will make application MUCH easier to get thin. Just apply a thin coat, and work your way around the vehicle avoiding black plastics, and then remove. If you wish you can then apply a 2nd coat if you are concerned you didn't get even coverage.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vms150 View Post
You shouldn't steam clean the headliner btw, it will cause the glue to release and the headliner to droop
did this happen? i am curious to know if i can steamclean the headliner
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:58 AM   #18
polarisboy385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAesthetica View Post
Collinite 845 is not a cleaner wax and does not need to be worked in, only applied *thin*. You do not need a polisher to get max benefits from this wax. I like to work things in by machine but thats just me.

Collinite waxes can sometimes be bit tricky if the weather is humid(which right now in WNY is not so no worries). You can apply to the whole car (thin) then just start right back at your first section removing it. That should give it enough time to cure and dry to be able to be removed easily.

Shake the snot out of the bottle first, it should be runny(not thick gel like which is probably is right now). You can also rest the bottle in warm water for a little while, it literally should be liquid. This will make application MUCH easier to get thin. Just apply a thin coat, and work your way around the vehicle avoiding black plastics, and then remove. If you wish you can then apply a 2nd coat if you are concerned you didn't get even coverage.

+1 thanks so very much, ill post some before and after pics when I'm done today.
I apprfeciate the help anf advice you've given.
Sometime ill bring my car up for a full detail!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
did this happen? i am curious to know if i can steamclean the headliner
It did not.... then again I might re edit my original post. I didn't technically steam clean the head liner, I used a brush and some biz and water and scrub the liner, and then just wet dry vac'd it with an upholstry tool on it
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:34 PM   #19
polarisboy385
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So... sorry guys n o pics, I started at 7 am didn't have my phone on me, I was workingb with a hangover as well lol

Procedure of cleaning
-rinse
-scrub wheels
-re rinse
- wash car
-rinse
-wash again
-rinse
-dry
-step 1 of the turtle wax ice car kit (personally found it to be garbage and left film on the car )
-washed again
- rinsed
-dryed again
-clay barred the car with half the bar
-wiped it down
- clayyed the windows and the entore car again with the remaining clay
- waxed with collinite
- tire shined the wheels and tires
- rewaxed again
- applied a second coat of tire shine

Total time -7.5 hours
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:26 PM   #20
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just clayed half my car and waxed half and meguiars was a b***h to remove :/ left a cloudy film over the top first time i tried the meguiars and im not thrilled about it i had to spray with quick detailer to get rid of the haze
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:54 AM   #21
Smoke
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I had to clay my car this weekend because the bodyshop guy got overspray on the entire car.

Bitch to get off, but I know if I got the overspray off, the surface was definitely ready for wax.

I then used Meguiar's 7 and put two coats of Einszett Glanz on it. I was impressed! For a synthetic wax it sure shined! Was it the 7? I'm debating whether or not to put a carnuaba wax on it now.

Detailers, what's your take on Meguiar's Show Car Glaze/7?
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:53 PM   #22
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#7 is a REALLY good product for single stage paints and really nice on dark single stage colors when machined on after polishing. Its definitely considered to be an "oily" type of glaze and it does do a good job at filling imperfections if needed and add some gloss on dark colors. On base/clear its really the preparation(polishing) that makes the difference but as you can see it add some really nice gloss.

While Glanz is a synthetic is has a little carnauba added to it so while sythetics don't usually play well with #7 or other oily type of glazes I think the carnauba added to it allowed it to play nice.

Do you have any pics? I would love to see it. Also please keep us updated with the durability and slickness of it with #7 underneath.

@polarisboy385 - glad to see everything went smoothly for you!
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:18 PM   #23
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I suck at taking pictures but I'll try to wash the car today and take one.

Then I'll get some Meguiar's gold class to top it off and take another picture.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:52 PM   #24
Smoke
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Here you go AutoAesthetica, just as I promised:

Washed (duh)
Clay barred
Meguiar's #7
2 coats of 1zet Glanz

This stuff beads up really good


Oh hai



[IMG][/IMG]

I added a coat of Meguiar's #26, but I think it didn't do anything. It seemed tough to get on.

[IMG][/IMG]

Yep, I'm proud of my 16 year old turd!

I'm NOT proud of my photography skills.

Last edited by Smoke; 09-28-2010 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 10-03-2010, 08:52 AM   #25
2subiesinyard
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Looks real nice for 16 years old. Hope my car looks that nice in 15.
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