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Old 09-20-2010, 12:59 PM   #1
AcquaCow
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Unhappy The fender rust is beginning... :(

Both of my subies are starting to rust, my white RS started just this last winter.

I wire brushed the paint/rust down to bare metal, let some naval jelly sit on it to convert anything I missed (so I thought), 3 coats Rustoleum primer, then factory touch-up paint + wet-sand + wax.

No love, it is rusting through again...


Now my red RS is starting to do the same...



Do I body shop this, or is there something else I should try first?

Thanks,

-- Dave
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Old 09-20-2010, 01:45 PM   #2
4banger4dr
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so you tried repairing it before via the way you described?
how long till the rust reoccured?

the best method is to cut out the rust and weld in clean metal... but thats a huge pain...

the second best method is to use a spot sand blaster and get every last bit of rust thats biting in there. then use short strand fiberglass to fill the sandblasting craters, then use epoxy primer, then high build sand paint the end...


rust sucks
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Old 09-20-2010, 01:48 PM   #3
AcquaCow
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Yeah, I used the method I described. Rust was back within 3 months.

Maybe I didn't wire brush it deep enough? I guess I have to brush down the pits entirely?

Thanks,

-- Dave
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:01 PM   #4
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You need to use some sort of media blaster to really get it clean. I have tried all the gels and stuff and none of them has even been a long term fix without completely stripping the area first. You can rent one for 100 a day or buy one for 200.
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:04 PM   #5
AcquaCow
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We have one at the house... I just didn't want to fire it at the car myself on my first use =)

I guess I'll have to take it somewhere...
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:05 PM   #6
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If you have one why would you take your car anywhere?
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:54 PM   #7
4banger4dr
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wire brush won't do it, blast for the win!
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:00 PM   #8
invisiblecity
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That model of subie is especially bad for rear quarter rust. Mine nearly drove me out of my mind.

It's coming from behind and will require you to remove/replace the metal.

Don't waste your time sanding/priming/painting.
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:48 PM   #9
25rsti
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subaru rear quarters ftl
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:11 PM   #10
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por15 ftw

EDIT: http://www.por15.com/
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:44 PM   #11
jamesfacts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invisiblecity View Post
That model of subie is especially bad for rear quarter rust. Mine nearly drove me out of my mind.

It's coming from behind and will require you to remove/replace the metal.

Don't waste your time sanding/priming/painting.
Probably not.

GC's usually rust from the outside. That doesn't look too bad Dave, I'd give home repair another chance. As mentioned, POR15 is amazing stuff.
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:54 AM   #12
lovin' it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lspade View Post
por15 ftw

EDIT: http://www.por15.com/
Actually this is really good stuff!
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:50 PM   #13
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We have used POR 15 for years on trouble spots.

If there are any questions about the use of Por15, please shoot us a pm.

Bryan
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invisiblecity View Post
That model of subie is especially bad for rear quarter rust. Mine nearly drove me out of my mind.

It's coming from behind and will require you to remove/replace the metal.

Don't waste your time sanding/priming/painting.
Its true, you can repair it all day and it will come back. Why else would it be the same spot on all the cars? The only way it would rust from the outside is if the paint/corrosion protection was damaged. The only way to fix it is to remove the reason its rusted in the first place. Two reasons cars rust there, water drains in between the Quarter and Outer wheel house or water gets in between the quarter and wheel house above your tire where they are welded together. Any way you look at its not an easy fix.
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:25 PM   #15
AcquaCow
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Well, I ordered my POR15 today anyways... worst case, stuff still needs to be cut out

-- Dave
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Old 10-02-2010, 10:29 AM   #16
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If you have any left over, I'll buy it . I need it for a project car. Let me know what you plan to do before doing anything.
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Old 10-02-2010, 01:13 PM   #17
AcquaCow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypnotk View Post
If you have any left over, I'll buy it . I need it for a project car. Let me know what you plan to do before doing anything.
Alright.

You should PM me your # as well... we should catch up some time, and I could use a subject matter expert on-scene

Thanks,

-- Dave
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:40 PM   #18
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POR15 showed up today... now I have to find the source of the rust and see if/how to get at it if it is inside the fender...luckily I have no trunk interior.

-- Dave
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:14 PM   #19
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Keep us posted on the progress
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AcquaCow View Post
POR15 showed up today... now I have to find the source of the rust and see if/how to get at it if it is inside the fender...luckily I have no trunk interior.

-- Dave
Make sure that you prep the area so that the Por15 will do its thing... The key to a good, long lasting repair is the cleaning and prep.

All in the instructions on the Por 15 can.

Bryan
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:53 PM   #21
AcquaCow
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Yup, I bought their metal ready cleaner spray as well... I just need a good dry day to do the repairs.

I looked at the spot from inside the trunk and don't see any internal rust... so hopefully it's just on the outside.

-- Dave
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:11 PM   #22
larson701
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If the paint is bubbling, the damage is from the inside. Is there an inner layer of metal where you are looking. Hypnotk has the right idea. Any repair from the outside will be a waste of time if the damage started on the back side of the metal.

-Les
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:07 PM   #23
AcquaCow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larson701 View Post
If the paint is bubbling, the damage is from the inside. Is there an inner layer of metal where you are looking. Hypnotk has the right idea. Any repair from the outside will be a waste of time if the damage started on the back side of the metal.

-Les
Yeah, paint is bubbling, it's probably from the inside... I just don't see it on the inside when I hit it with a flashlight...

I believe Hypnotk 100% due to his experience, so I guess I have to get in there with a boroscope and look around...

-- Dave
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:43 AM   #24
larson701
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Chances are that there are 2 layers of metal at the location shown in your photo above. The layers would be spot-welded together, leaving a tiny, tight gap over most of the edges length. Unfortunately, the gap is not tight enough. Water and dissolved material can collect and work their way to between the panels. Take off bumper and look at the metal's edge to confirm this. Or use a mirror to look at the backside of the joint, unless there is an inner liner. Short of a major panel replacement, I have never seen a repair in this area last, especially if welding was involved.
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:40 AM   #25
DavidisaCult
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when my cars start rusting I trade them in ftw.
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