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Old 06-24-2002, 09:47 PM   #1
Chav
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Default For anyone that has been having idle problems with the link 2.

I have been trying to figure out why the second I turn on the headlights or any electronics the car's idle goes from 900 right to 500. I figured it had something to do with the voltage correction so I messed with that and it didnt do anything at all. Finally today I desided I'm gonna figure this thing out and messed with every setting. I finally came to the conclusion that the map clamp at 33 was causing the problem since the car was actually idleing at 24kPa. I lowered the value, the computer saw the correct vacuum and properly compensated for any load.

Now the only problem I have is when I ease into the throttle the a/f ratio leans all the way out and then comes back. The accell and wakeup zones dont change it at all.

-Chav
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Old 06-24-2002, 10:47 PM   #2
Impreza Rider
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Just goes to show how two cars can be very different. My car won't idle right with the clamp set below 35. I had to raise it because my car would die on cold starts, and that solved that problem.

My car will lean out a lot if I ease into the throttle as well. I figure that it's not causing any trouble, so I don't worry about it. If I open the throttle abrubtly, then it leans out to about the very first yellow LED on my a/f gauge for a split second, and then comes back...I have to watch it do it, or else it looks like it just stays in the rich zone.
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Old 06-24-2002, 11:05 PM   #3
Chav
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That is exactly how my car is: aburpt throttle barely a drop in a/f, ease into the throttle and it leans out bad.

For your cold start I found that adjusting the cold start and crank values fix the problem.

When I had the clamp at 33, I had to lower the idle zone about 40 points or more lower than the zone to the right. Now that there is no clamp the idle zone is close to the zones round it. Is your map set up the same way?

Also mine is set to to map + tps and when ever I connect the laptop and open the software it changes it to map and I have to change it back. Is yours the same way?

edit: I'm still n/a until the turbo gets here this may be why you need the clamp and I dont.

-Chav
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Old 06-24-2002, 11:16 PM   #4
Impreza Rider
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The car would start when it was cold...the idle would just slowly fall until the car stalled. After I raised the clamp, it was fine...idles like it should when it's cold (at around 1300rpm), and then slowly falls to my idle speed (700rpm)as the car warms.

Quote:
When I had the clamp at 33, I had to lower the idle zone about 40 points or more lower than the zone to the right. Now that there is no clamp the idle zone is close to the zones round it. Is your map set up the same way?
Are you talking about the fuel setting? All of my fuel zones around the idle zone are within 5 points of each other.

Quote:
Also mine is set to to map + tps and when ever I connect the laptop and open the software it changes it to map and I have to change it back. Is yours the same way?
To be honest, I wasn't able to get the car to run right when I had it set on map+tps...it ran very rough. I've had my car running on map pretty much the entire time.

Quote:
That is exactly how my car is: aburpt throttle barely a drop in a/f, ease into the throttle and it leans out bad.
What do you have your enrichment set on? It's in the configuration heading, I have mine set on TPS, rather than MAP. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
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Old 06-24-2002, 11:28 PM   #5
Chav
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I have the enrichment set to tps. I tried map + tps and enrichment on map and it ran better, but the accell zones still didnt have any effect. I now have it on map + tps and the enrichment on tps and the accell zones still dont have any effect.

You should try setting the enrichment to map because I had it set up the way you had (map instead of map + tps and enrichment on tps) and Andrew at AMR said that this may not work properly since the computer is using the map sensor for zoning and the tps to enrich.

-Chav
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Old 06-25-2002, 05:03 PM   #6
Chav
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Update: Just talked to AMR and Link New Zeland is releasing another software update to fix the map + tps setting going to map when the software is opened and connected. This should fix the enrichment problem. Hopefully in a couple days we will see.

-Chav
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Old 06-25-2002, 05:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chav
Update: Just talked to AMR and Link New Zeland is releasing another software update to fix the map + tps setting going to map when the software is opened and connected. This should fix the enrichment problem. Hopefully in a couple days we will see.

-Chav
Excellent...maybe it'll fix the Master fuel issue as well...
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Old 06-26-2002, 01:02 AM   #8
RallyNavvie
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Sounds like none of the aftermarket ECUs deal with idle control very well, do they

I don't understand why the Link doesn't control the ICM as well as it should. With the Haltech it was just a matter of setting the idle control settings close to what stock was and it did all the rest. Although I can still get it to stall if I work both power window motors, the moonroof motor, and turn on the headlights/driving lights all at the same time, but I think even an OEM computer would stall at that. Still the ICM is almost autonomous. It notes change in engine RPM and corrects as needed.

I assume the Link uses coolant correction, but it doesn't incorporate intake temps for fuel correction does it? This whole MAP sensor voltage clamping thing seems like too much of a hassle.

~Garrett
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Old 06-26-2002, 01:19 AM   #9
Chav
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Yea, I definetly agree that the map clamp thing is useless. In the book it states that the map clamp is used for cars that have high over lap cams and the vacuum at idle jumps all over the place. The problem was that the link was interpolating the fuel value between 2 zones. The zone it was changing was having a small effect on the actual fueling. Once I took off the clamp it moved the idle vacuum into one zone and then the computer could properly control it. So far its been pretty solid at idle. I havent really tried to kill it, but I did have the headlights on + full air motor + a/c and it didn't change the idle (air motor and a/c were suddenly applied). I was pretty impressed.

The link does use air temp to correct map values, but I dont find it very user friendly. There is an ambient temp correction value. Mine is set at 10 right now and I dont really have any idea if I should change it or not. The link does use the coolant temp to determine cold starting, and to keep lambda off till the car is warm.

Garrett: Do you notice the same thing when you ease into the throttle your a/f leans out significantly, but if you abruptly open it the a/f will barely dip? This is the only problem I have with the Link 2.

I would love to have stagged fueling like the Haltech E6k has!

-Chav
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Old 06-26-2002, 12:07 PM   #10
RallyNavvie
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It does lean out for a split second on gradual throttle application, but it's not really an issue since it comes right back into normal before it causes any problems. The reason the A/F remains in normal operating ranges at quick throttle changes is because of the throttle pump settings. Those are meant to resist lean-out when sudden and dramatic throttle increases happen. Some ECUs have settings for more gradual throttle changes, but it isn't really that necessary. As long as your A/F comes alive right after it leans out you should be OK.

Since our stock engines don't have an air temp sensor does the Link come with one for you to install? And what are the parameters/settings for your closed loop fuel control? Are you able to customize when the closed loop comes on?

~Garrett
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Old 06-26-2002, 01:12 PM   #11
Chav
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OK, good to know that I shouldnt be so concerned with the lean out.

Our stock engines 00-01 do have intake air temperature sensors. The 99's dont and people with these models can add the sensor. I believe if you have a 99 AMR will include a sensor for you to add, but I'm not sure.

Closed Loop: For forced induction there are lambda targets set up for idle(0-1000rpms and 0-80kPa), cruise (1000+rpms and 0-60kPa), interpolation cruise (for all rpms from 60-100kPa,) then there are 4 more target zones from 100kPa to 300kPa. You can tell the system to only come on above a certain rpm so that you can manually set the idle, but lambda is either off or on.
I dont really like that. For naturally asp. cars the lambda system can bet setup the same way except the max will be 110kPa and there are still 6 lambda target zones under 110kPa. It would be nice if they would allow us to define a point when it would go from closed loop to open loop because I dont trust my narrow band O2 at WOT.

-Chav
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Old 06-27-2002, 01:41 AM   #12
RallyNavvie
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Haltech is supposed to be pretty much universal so its closed loop op parameters include which throttle position it should cut out/in at as well as RPM limits. Then there are settings for engine cycle delay to the O2 sensor and fuel take-away amount. It seems to work rather well, though I think I could maybe be a bit more liberal with its envelope.

Funny story about closed loop op though: While we were tuning my ECU on the road we were leaving closed loop off to make tuning easier. Odd thing was that at certain loads at cruise the engine would seem to go into closed loop of its own accord. Not sure if it was because we had tuned the A/F so well that it was really having a hard times staying on target or what was going on. Whatever it was it certainly wasn't a bad thing. Aren't programmable ECUs fun

~Garrett
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