Anyone try electronic rust prevention?

WickedSTI · 09-20-2010, 05:52 PM

I have seen a few threads on rust as of late anyone try http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/ or outhers.I was looking into this a few years ago.Any info yall can give on this?Brad

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iluvdrt · 09-20-2010, 05:54 PM

I remember installing these from Subaru at the dealer (Subaru) I worked at back in the early 90's. Not sure if it ever worked though. I know my car didn't get one at the least LOL, it is rusted to hell.

Vew · 09-21-2010, 08:35 AM

I can't see this being very effective if it works at all. Most cathodic protection is used on stuff like ships, water heaters, or large structures where you can complete the circuit using the ground or water as the conductor. What would the conductor be here? On top of that, wouldn't this just drain your battery if you're continuously putting a charge on the anode? It looks to me they're counting on proven effectiveness in use on ships and whatnot but this is a misapplication.

Edit: If you look here you can see as part of the equation, you need the water to complete the reaction as well as being the medium.
http://www.cathodicprotection101.com/

lovin' it · 10-07-2010, 04:22 AM

I could be wrong but I think it's another gimmick.

BWX · 10-10-2010, 03:36 AM

I bought a rust warranty from the dealer for my '09 2.5i because I plan on keeping it for a very long time and I may just collect on that warranty years from now. Part of the warranty was to put one those gadgets on my car. I couldn't care less if it works or not, if the car rusts, they fix it. They must think it works though, why else would they bother using it? They sold me a rust warranty, not the device.

Back Road Runner · 10-11-2010, 07:42 PM

The idea works as long as there is a good electrical connection to the parts, i.e. the panels aren't isolated. Rust requires oxidation. If you provide a sacrificial material to oxidize more readily, it will oxidize that part first. A good example of this is with outboard boat motors. They use sacrificial material down by the prop to prevent oxidation of important parts. Another example is the aluminum paint on LP tanks. It's not there to look pretty but to protect the steel underneath. This electric system is no different, although I assume running electricity helps make the system work more efficiently. Is it needed? Well, most chassis are bathed in zinc and galvanized anyways. Plus Subaru adds rubber undercoating on their cars that are sold in snowy areas. Rust is pretty minimal from what I've experience with my Forester. mine's about 10 years old now and there's almost zero rust on the car. The subframe and suspension bits are the most rusty, along with some frame parts that were never galvanized.

09-20-2010, 05:52 PM	#1
WickedSTI Scooby Specialist Member#: 39408 Join Date: Jul 2003 Chapter/Region: South East	Anyone try electronic rust prevention? I have seen a few threads on rust as of late anyone try http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/ or outhers.I was looking into this a few years ago.Any info yall can give on this?Brad * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

09-21-2010, 08:35 AM	#3
Vew Scooby Specialist Member#: 74229 Join Date: Nov 2004 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Morgantown, WV Vehicle: 2004 WRX PSM	I can't see this being very effective if it works at all. Most cathodic protection is used on stuff like ships, water heaters, or large structures where you can complete the circuit using the ground or water as the conductor. What would the conductor be here? On top of that, wouldn't this just drain your battery if you're continuously putting a charge on the anode? It looks to me they're counting on proven effectiveness in use on ships and whatnot but this is a misapplication. Edit: If you look here you can see as part of the equation, you need the water to complete the reaction as well as being the medium. http://www.cathodicprotection101.com/ Last edited by Vew; 09-21-2010 at 08:43 AM.

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09-20-2010, 05:54 PM	#2
iluvdrt Scooby Specialist Member#: 46248 Join Date: Oct 2003 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: DRTY Autosports Denver, Co Vehicle: 2012 outback 2.5 sky blue	I remember installing these from Subaru at the dealer (Subaru) I worked at back in the early 90's. Not sure if it ever worked though. I know my car didn't get one at the least LOL, it is rusted to hell.

10-07-2010, 04:22 AM	#4
lovin' it Scooby Specialist Member#: 236710 Join Date: Jan 2010 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Indian Township, Maine Vehicle: 2010 WRX Five Door WRB!	I could be wrong but I think it's another gimmick.

10-10-2010, 03:36 AM	#5
BWX Scooby Specialist Member#: 236305 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: South Central.. NY Vehicle: 2009 2.5i 4dr 5spd Newport Blue Pearl	I bought a rust warranty from the dealer for my '09 2.5i because I plan on keeping it for a very long time and I may just collect on that warranty years from now. Part of the warranty was to put one those gadgets on my car. I couldn't care less if it works or not, if the car rusts, they fix it. They must think it works though, why else would they bother using it? They sold me a rust warranty, not the device.

10-11-2010, 07:42 PM	#6
Back Road Runner Scooby Guru Member#: 60082 Join Date: Apr 2004 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Minnesota Vehicle: 2004 Forester STI Silver	The idea works as long as there is a good electrical connection to the parts, i.e. the panels aren't isolated. Rust requires oxidation. If you provide a sacrificial material to oxidize more readily, it will oxidize that part first. A good example of this is with outboard boat motors. They use sacrificial material down by the prop to prevent oxidation of important parts. Another example is the aluminum paint on LP tanks. It's not there to look pretty but to protect the steel underneath. This electric system is no different, although I assume running electricity helps make the system work more efficiently. Is it needed? Well, most chassis are bathed in zinc and galvanized anyways. Plus Subaru adds rubber undercoating on their cars that are sold in snowy areas. Rust is pretty minimal from what I've experience with my Forester. mine's about 10 years old now and there's almost zero rust on the car. The subframe and suspension bits are the most rusty, along with some frame parts that were never galvanized.