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Old 09-20-2010, 08:38 PM   #1
barryj
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Default Turtle Wax Lens Restorer?

Any comments on "Turtle Wax Headlight Lens Restorer Kit"? It seems to be complete with 3 sanding grades and and 3 solutions..........

Had read many threads that "Crystal View"(?) was the kit to get, but I can't seem to find it in this area of Northern NH.....
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:09 AM   #2
98outbacksprt
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i used the turtle wax kit and it actually made them worse.. followed the directions very closely and still very poor results...
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Old 11-17-2010, 04:44 PM   #3
txl146
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I will be trying this kit today. Will take some photos.... this thread makes me worried.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:36 PM   #4
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I used the kit - after applying the sealant they looked amazingly nice. I left them to cure for 24 hours...

Problem is durability of the sealant. Without the sealant, scratches are visible.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:44 PM   #5
gray_scoob_punk
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i used this kit before. It lasted maybe a few weeks and then looked worse.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:35 PM   #6
BoDiddley
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used the kit made the headlights better..i wax the headlights once a month and they look fine

still doesnt stop rocks from making dents in the head lights
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:29 PM   #7
2002wrxspoolin
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I've heard that a gojo hand cleaner works great. Just a suggestion and its cheaper.
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gray_scoob_punk View Post
i used this kit before. It lasted maybe a few weeks and then looked worse.
how long did you cure them?
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:17 PM   #9
txl146
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Looks good, but no idea how long it will last.... I left them to cure for more than 24 hours...

Before and after photos.







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Old 11-18-2010, 07:41 PM   #10
Feartheroo
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I was actually pleasantly surprised, I used them on my daughter's car, followed directions and let them cure for a full 24 hours, and well over two months later, they look just as good as the day I did them.

B
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Old 11-19-2010, 02:33 AM   #11
Jaren1
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THere is already a thread on this

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2011221

Anyways. I work at a shop that charges to do this service. I am the one that does it on all the cars. Its really simple and you dont need a kit.

We us sand paper and a rotary buffer and some polishing compound.

BEFORE:


First step is to take 400 grit (for really bad lights) sand area evenly like so:



Then I stepped up to 600 Grit:



Then from there I stepped up to 1500 then to 2000. Finished by Polishing with a yellow pad at some compound at about 1500rpms. Then I took i light pad and some polish and ended up with this:

Final
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Old 11-19-2010, 04:30 AM   #12
nairbmik
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Don't forget to spray it with rattle can clear coat! Or else it'll keep coming back.
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:35 AM   #13
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plenty of threads on these products and diy headlight restoring...

most of the time sanding is not necessary... and most dont realize it does more harm than good. sure it looks good but the protective uv clear coat and layers are being sanded off. eventually it will haze within months and turn yellow

use rubbing compound ($3 for a whole can) and then you are done! thank me later
for bonus use plastx after, and keep it waxed like your paint
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:39 AM   #14
Jaren1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
plenty of threads on these products and diy headlight restoring...

most of the time sanding is not necessary... and most dont realize it does more harm than good. sure it looks good but the protective uv clear coat and layers are being sanded off. eventually it will haze within months and turn yellow

use rubbing compound ($3 for a whole can) and then you are done! thank me later
for bonus use plastx after, and keep it waxed like your paint
You couldnt be more wrong. 90% of the time Sanding is needed. Sorry no matter how hard you try, rubbing compound isnt going to remove the layer of faded and yellowed plastic. I have enough experience doing this.

Sanding really doesnt do any more harm then what has already been done by the sun. Obviously the UV clear coat didnt do its job if you need to refinish your lenses, so why would sanding be any worse? Its not
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:56 PM   #15
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its a tip i picked up from lightwerkz and i am 3 for 3 with it. worked amazingly well. who told you sanding was needed? 3m? haha

i would only say sand if there are nicks and uneven surface, but just for fading its pretty unnecessary as i figured out. why skip such an easy step, you are not risking anything. in detailing always start with less severe methods and move up.

Last edited by jxkim; 11-19-2010 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:48 PM   #16
Jaren1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
its a tip i picked up from lightwerkz and i am 3 for 3 with it. worked amazingly well. who told you sanding was needed? 3m? haha

i would only say sand if there are nicks and uneven surface, but just for fading its pretty unnecessary as i figured out. why skip such an easy step, you are not risking anything. in detailing always start with less severe methods and move up.
Im willing to bet i have multiple times more experience doing this then you. We do it for customer cars. Cant do a half ass job if you have a company reputation riding on it.

Not a SINGLE customer has ever complained.

And given my experience I have done and tested what you are saying multiple times. Doesnt even come close to the results obtained with sanding.

You do it on your car. I do it on paying customers cars. Paying customers are surely more picky then friends or yourself.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:22 PM   #17
TPF23
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looks brand new
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:48 PM   #18
markgsa
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I used wizards turbo cut and it worked awesome.
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:37 PM   #19
FL4TFTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
its a tip i picked up from lightwerkz and i am 3 for 3 with it. worked amazingly well. who told you sanding was needed? 3m? haha

i would only say sand if there are nicks and uneven surface, but just for fading its pretty unnecessary as i figured out. why skip such an easy step, you are not risking anything. in detailing always start with less severe methods and move up.
Okay I'll make this simple. You're wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lezbaru View Post
Im willing to bet i have multiple times more experience doing this then you. We do it for customer cars. Cant do a half ass job if you have a company reputation riding on it.

Not a SINGLE customer has ever complained.

And given my experience I have done and tested what you are saying multiple times. Doesnt even come close to the results obtained with sanding.

You do it on your car. I do it on paying customers cars. Paying customers are surely more picky then friends or yourself.
You're 100% correct.
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:18 PM   #20
prokaw875
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I used the turtle wax lens restorer and I am kinda torn by it. The rubbing compound didn't do crap. The 4 wet sanding steps worked good but even with using the lens wipe the small scratches and slight fading/blur still shows through. What wax or compound should i do use to make the lenses clear and scratches filled in fully? Just a plastic or normal car wax?
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Old 11-26-2010, 02:40 AM   #21
Jaren1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prokaw875 View Post
I used the turtle wax lens restorer and I am kinda torn by it. The rubbing compound didn't do crap. The 4 wet sanding steps worked good but even with using the lens wipe the small scratches and slight fading/blur still shows through. What wax or compound should i do use to make the lenses clear and scratches filled in fully? Just a plastic or normal car wax?
I use normal car wax. a 2000 grit wax would do good after sanding
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:00 AM   #22
FL4TFTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lezbaru

I use normal car wax. a 2000 grit wax would do good after sanding
Okay you're confusing wax with polish(or compound). Buy some plastx and a yellow applicator pad if you want to do this by hand. Otherwise a random orbital buffer will do a great job and is easy to use. You can get a good one for around $60-100 used or $130ish new. I'm talking about the g110v2, pcxp, or griot's.

You can wax the headlight after you clean off all polish residue (with ipa) to add some uv protection.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:40 AM   #23
Jaren1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FL4TFTW View Post
Okay you're confusing wax with polish(or compound). Buy some plastx and a yellow applicator pad if you want to do this by hand. Otherwise a random orbital buffer will do a great job and is easy to use. You can get a good one for around $60-100 used or $130ish new. I'm talking about the g110v2, pcxp, or griot's.

You can wax the headlight after you clean off all polish residue (with ipa) to add some uv protection.

I do believe his question was "what wax or compound should I use"

Wax isnt going to remove scratches, compound will. Thats why I suggested it.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:50 AM   #24
polarisboy385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lezbaru View Post
You couldnt be more wrong. 90% of the time Sanding is needed. Sorry no matter how hard you try, rubbing compound isnt going to remove the layer of faded and yellowed plastic. I have enough experience doing this.

Sanding really doesnt do any more harm then what has already been done by the sun. Obviously the UV clear coat didnt do its job if you need to refinish your lenses, so why would sanding be any worse? Its not
Quote:
Originally Posted by jxkim View Post
its a tip i picked up from lightwerkz and i am 3 for 3 with it. worked amazingly well. who told you sanding was needed? 3m? haha

i would only say sand if there are nicks and uneven surface, but just for fading its pretty unnecessary as i figured out. why skip such an easy step, you are not risking anything. in detailing always start with less severe methods and move up.
i believe this is one of those times that there is more than one way to do something, toachieve the same (or nearly the same ) results

this is a good informative thred though and i will do it on my sisters car.... my dads about to buy new headlights and im tellin him to save money cause ill be able to do it
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:52 AM   #25
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