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Old 02-25-2011, 05:41 PM   #401
KP
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Meh. It'll be another year until this car is finished anyways.
yes, I know what the current state of the car is
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:03 PM   #402
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Very meticulous build. Good job!
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:06 PM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP View Post
Meh. It'll be another year until this car is finished anyways.
At least I own a Subaru.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
Very meticulous build. Good job!
Thanks dude! How did you find this thread BTW? Just curious.
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:27 PM   #404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP View Post
Meh. It'll be another year until this car is finished anyways.
I don't think so. Race Wars is next weekend.
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:33 PM   #405
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Originally Posted by brocksdad View Post
I don't think so. Race Wars is next weekend.

He'll be there with his daddys Lexus.

Anyhow, Ken, kick ass build. I have loved reading through this. Very exciting.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:46 PM   #406
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I put the rear trailing arms, e-brake cables, e-brake assembly, rotor and caliper on tonight. It's starting to look like a car.

I used a single camber bolt in the top hole of the rear coilover. I then maxed that bolt to try and see what type of camber I can expect on this setup. My primary concern is that it will be hard to fit the wheels under the fenders. Yeah, yeah, I know, hella flush can fit 18"x10" with 245's under a wagon fender, blah blah. I want to run decent camber, but not too much, and I definitely don't want to pull my fenders. They are already rolled, but not that aggressively.


I am using 2005-2007 STi rear lateral links. These units are slightly longer than the 2004 STi ones. I am also using 2005-2007 STi BBS which are 0.5" wider than the 04 STi wheels. Overall, this gives the 05-07 STi a slightly wider track width. Under sedan fenders, this isn't a problem, but the wagon fenders are 10mm narrower per side. I've seen a 2004 STi swap into a wagon (Jay's) and the rears fit fine, but they are close.

These are the track widths I could dig up:
Quote:
Track front/rear (inches)

02-07 WRX Sedan: 58.5/58.3
02-07 WRX Wagon: 57.7/57.3
04 STi Sedan: 58.7/58.5
05-07 STi Sedan: 58.7/58.9
So, my new track width will be 1" wider in the front and a whopping 1.6" wider in the rear over what it was.

Anyway, I installed everything and then mounted a wheel just to see what it looks like. I still have the option to add a second camber bolt to the lower hole, but I'm already really close to the coilover body. I am using Group-N top hats front and rear, mostly because I had them sitting around. It looks like camber plates might be in my future.

Top view (bad perspective):




Pretty damn flush. I do expect the wheel to move in a small bit as the suspension is loaded due to the camber curve.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:47 PM   #407
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And some misc pics (again, the colors aren't very good) :





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Old 02-25-2011, 11:54 PM   #408
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Those wheels look sick! I need to take my set out of the weeds,clean them up and sell them.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:59 PM   #409
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Hey kpluiten,

Is the 6 speed kartboy bushing the same as the 5speed part?
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:47 AM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinscrollGT35R View Post
Those wheels look sick! I need to take my set out of the weeds,clean them up and sell them.
Thanks dude. Yeah, I suppose the stock ones aren't much use with a wide body huh?

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Originally Posted by tobylazur View Post
Hey kpluiten,

Is the 6 speed kartboy bushing the same as the 5speed part?
Yup, they should be the same.
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:02 AM   #411
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They wont clear my brakes.... lol
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:36 PM   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Yup, they should be the same.
any chance I could get some measurements from you? I was thinking of turning down some delrin material I have if I have enough.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:20 AM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobylazur View Post
any chance I could get some measurements from you? I was thinking of turning down some delrin material I have if I have enough.

I can loan you the stock bushing to mimic is you want. I could give you measurements, but my garage calipers aren't worth a damn and they'd probably just be wrong.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:31 AM   #414
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I had a little bit of time to work on the wagon tonight. I started by swapping out the stock 2006 WRX brake master cylinder for one from a 02-05 WRX. The 06-07 WRX's came with a 1" BMC, where as the 02-05 WRX and the 04+ STi came with 1 1/16" unit. Knowing this, I looked around and found a nearly new condition BMC from a 2003 WRX for $35. The advantage to this swap is that the larger the BMC, the firmer the pedal feel and the less the pedal travels. This is because the cylinder moved more fluid over a smaller unit. With the Brembos now installed, the system has more fluid capacity and a larger BMC is a good idea.

On my GC, I have a full set of 03 WRX brakes, but I'm still using the stock 15/16" BMC (remember, the BMC for 02-05 was a full 1/8" larger) and the pedal is super squishy and you have to put it nearly to the floor to lock the wheels. I did not want this to be the case with the wagon.

I was going to then bleed the system, but I forgot to order the thread sealant for the one repaired caliper so I could not proceed with that tonight.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:51 AM   #415
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Since I reached a stopping point with the brakes, I moved on to the clutch system. For a long while now, I've wanted to see what they system feels like without the damper valves installed. The purpose of this system is to prevent rapid engagement of the clutch ("side-stepping") which reduces the shock loading on the gears. Early 02 WRX's did not have this system and after all the gear boxes started to explode, Subaru issued a service bulletin and installed this damper system. I still come across the occasional 02 without the system, but everything after 02 got it, including the STi. Tonight, I removed the dampers.

First I removed the entire clutch hydraulic system from the car. This included the master cylinder, hard line on the firewall, soft line and bracket, and the slave cylinder. This made it easier to work on. Next I removed the hard line and the soft line and threw them into the neighbor's yard; I won't need them any more.

The dampers are located in two spots; one on the master cylinder and one on the slave. The one on the slave is more obvious.

Here is a picture of the master cylinder (upside down). That round, disk-like part is a damper. It functions by adding capacitance to the system with a moving diaphragm.


Here is was the device looks like removed:


Here is what the master looks like with the damper removed:


There are two established ways to eliminate this part: 1) Buy an M16x1.5 plug and replace the damper or 2) drill and tap the small hole on the master and place a set screw in there. With the first method, the damper is completely gone and therefore cannot function. The problem is this plug can be very hard to find. I'm not a fan of the second method because I didn't want metal shavings to enter the master cylinder and risk messing it up. Additionally, that hole is not very thick so you could easily strip it out or tap too far and have a screw inhibiting the movement of the cylinder in the bore.

I tried a new method tonight. I found a 0.25" ball bearing in my bike stuff and drilled out the damper just under 0.25" (around 0.245"). Then I pressed the ball bearing into the hole. It was a very tight fit. My thinking is that this will prevent the fluid from entering the damper valve and therefore it will not function. This method took less than 5 minutes. Here you can see what I did.

Drilled hole:


Bearing sitting on hole:


Bearing pressed into hole:




I then reassembled the master cylinder with the disabled damper and moved on to the slave cylinder.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:05 AM   #416
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You are a man with too much patience. For that, I applaud you.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:08 AM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP View Post
You are a man with too much patience. For that, I applaud you.
Seriously. I cant have parts sitting around for over a week without getting installed or sold
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:13 AM   #418
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP View Post
You are a man with too much patience. For that, I applaud you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik View Post
Seriously. I cant have parts sitting around for over a week without getting installed or sold

I get lost in the minutia frequently.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:15 AM   #419
KP
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So lost that you don't respond to NASIOC chat apparently...
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:29 AM   #420
kpluiten
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Deleting the damper valve on the slave is much easier.

Here is the slave cylinder in stock form:




The hexagonal cylinder next to the slave is the damper valve. There are two ways to disable this valve: 1) remove the whole assembly and run the line in from the master right to the back of the slave or 2) open up the hexagonal cylinder part and remove the guts. I chose the first method. The second works fine, but I didn't want a useless part sitting around, especially one that can trap air and make bleeding a pain.

Here is the damper assembly removed from the slave:


You can see how a banjo bolt will attach right to the back of the slave. Depending on the banjo used, you may have to shorten the banjo bolt a bit.


Just out of curiousity, I opened up the damper valve and looked at the guts you can remove instead.




Lastly, I removed the extra material used to mount the damper assembly. 2 minutes with a hack saw did the trick.


Now with a fresh coat of paint and ready to be assembled and then installed.



As far as the hard line on the fire wall and the soft line, I will replace both with a braided stainless line with banjo fittings (10mmx1.0) at each end. I took a guess and ordered the 12" line. The parts should be here for install next week. The total on the parts for the stainless line was $33.50.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:09 PM   #421
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The clutch line parts came today. Did I mention I hate Jegs?

On the recommendation of some other members I spoke with, I removed the ferrule part inside of the slave cylinder. I don't know if this will make a difference or not (I'm doubtful), but I can't see how it would hurt. As near as I can tell it's sole purpose is to provide a surface fore the flare nut to seat on.

This is it:


Jegs, being the great company they are (sarcasm), sent me the wrong banjo bolts. Well, one is correct and the other is wrong (standard rather than metric). But both came in the same packaging with the same part numbers. I am going to call them up and bitch about it. Luckily I had an extra correct banjo bolt sitting around that I could use.


Here is the assembly:




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Old 03-09-2011, 01:34 PM   #422
mc06STI
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Damn those wheels are sexy! how much did they charge to powder coat them?
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:05 PM   #423
madmax_087
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Oh man that bearing is so sexy! I just want to take that thing and carry it around all day like I'm transporting a secret message in prison! Nice work Ken. Now, stop screwing around with tiny bits and pieces and finish your car! Dam hell!
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:18 PM   #424
kpluiten
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Now, stop screwing around with tiny bits and pieces and finish your car! Dam hell!
The devil is in the details.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:29 PM   #425
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This car better feel like a Z06 when you're finished.
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